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Jeremy09 wrote:Experiencing same issue currently. I cleaned all my terminals and grounds. I read 14.2 with my tiida alt i added to my toyota and yes, i did the big 3 upgrade. I use a red top plus a xp3000 in the rear.
Looking forward to see what people say
At idle with no load or music, i get 14.3v cold start,14.2v warmed up. My system is roughly 3000rms, the xp3000 is 120ah and i think the redtop is 44ah or so.heroyuy wrote:Jeremy09 wrote:Experiencing same issue currently. I cleaned all my terminals and grounds. I read 14.2 with my tiida alt i added to my toyota and yes, i did the big 3 upgrade. I use a red top plus a xp3000 in the rear.
Looking forward to see what people say
Wait you have a battery in the trunk as well?? how much amps /power? All the feedback i receive is that my redtop optima AH is too low to sustain the electrical and bass drops. the suggestions was to run a secondary battery and let the amps feed off the secondary. Are you getting a constant voltage or is yours dropping under 14 under normal load (no music)?
heroyuy wrote:I bought a cigarette ligher voltage meter.
heroyuy wrote:On start up im gettin a nice 14.4 v however about 2 minutes after it will drop to 13.8.
heroyuy wrote:Once i am running about im seeing 13.2 to 13.5 .Now that is with accessories off. If i turn my bass up i see V drops to almost 13.
Jeremy09 wrote:Experiencing same issue currently. I cleaned all my terminals and grounds. I read 14.2 with my tiida alt i added to my toyota and yes, i did the big 3 upgrade. I use a red top plus a xp3000 in the rear.
Looking forward to see what people say
Check out that link from YouTube,hope it helps.heroyuy wrote:Good day tuners, lets start of by stating i am learning stuff as i go so any suggestion will be much appreciated.
I have recently upgraded my shiddy speakers in my almera. the door and back dash speakers have now been replaced by 6" and well now i have a 12 sub , got 2 small amps 1000w each. Now my issue is that i have been noticing all my lights dimming when the bass hits (car starts fine). I did some research and firstly i did the big 3 wiring using 0g , issue persisted so i changed my battery and used on of those red top optima batteries (3 mnths old now), same crap so i eventually put on a tiida (140) alternator. Issue still persists.
I bought a cigarette ligher voltage meter. On start up im gettin a nice 14.4 v however about 2 minutes after it will drop to 13.8. Once i am running about im seeing 13.2 to 13.5 .Now that is with accessories off. If i turn my bass up i see V drops to almost 13.
I am not sure what else i should be doing. I plugged on the voltmeter into another car and i see it at a constant 14.1v .Is there some specific way to wire the tiida alternator or some mod that can be done to have it run at 14v continously? I am out of ideas as i think i have done everything but add another battery, which i think is over kill for my small a$$ system.
Any suggestions much appreciated.
heroyuy wrote:So over the weekend i tried some stuff. I removed one of the alternator wires and the voltage reads 15.1 constantly. The bass still causes a dip regardless of the voltage so its definitely the low AH from the battery, The 15.1 volts is too high for my liking so i reconnected the wires and stay at the 13.5v . I will look into either fitting a larger battery up front or adding one to the trunk. ( i prefer my trunk emtpy so ill try to fit a larger capacity one up front)
The problem that many ICE installers fail to grasp is that a 1Kw amp pulls about 55 amps to 110 amps. The typical car at idle can pull 55 amps to 75 amps. The amplifier is pulling as much current as everything else in the the car.Ted_v2 wrote:The forum loaded with alternator problems right now, why dont you all buy proper high output alternators with external regulators to set the voltage to where u all need it?
1000PROPER rms on bass is alot of strain on a electrical system, hell i noticed on some new vehicles the original alternator wires and factory grounds would be a issue in the next couple years.
adnj wrote:The problem that many ICE installers fail to grasp is that a 1Kw amp pulls about 55 amps to 110 amps. The typical car at idle can pull 55 amps to 75 amps. The amplifier is pulling as much current as everything else in the the car.Ted_v2 wrote:The forum loaded with alternator problems right now, why dont you all buy proper high output alternators with external regulators to set the voltage to where u all need it?
1000PROPER rms on bass is alot of strain on a electrical system, hell i noticed on some new vehicles the original alternator wires and factory grounds would be a issue in the next couple years.
Most batteries hold less than 80 amp-hours or energy. That may likely let you run your amp for less than an hour before it is too depleted to start your engine.
You are left with a situation where you need to install a more capable charge system: larger alternator, larger cables, larger lugs, and additional battery capacity. Depending on your power requirements, two to four batteries, 0 to 0000 gauge cables and 350 amp alternators are not unusual.
Is that possible with the tiida being 140amp and the stock being 90amp?Ted_v2 wrote:the voltage could say one thing, but the actual charging amps could very well be less.
Yes. At low RPMs it is not uncommon for alternators with high peak output to produce less charging current than similar alternators with lower peak output.Jeremy09 wrote:Is that possible with the tiida being 140amp and the stock being 90amp?Ted_v2 wrote:the voltage could say one thing, but the actual charging amps could very well be less.
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