that's not an opinion, that's a parts list
When you buy your gearbox, make sure u get the flywheel, fork and the clutch slave cylinder...unless u have an aftermarket lightened flywheel in mind already lined up for it. Some sellers mess with the forkin' fork so make sure the rubber is good too. Make sure your bell housing isn't cracked and the axle seals are good (u could still buy those new anyway, but crappy seals could tell u how much attention they paid to the gearbox sometimes). It's not something to overlook. Crappy broken, leaky seals prolly means the diff might have ran low or ran dry at some point.
You could get the slave cylinder to buy new if u want, or buy a rebuild kit for it and service it. U'll need to either get the original lines, or have lines made. Make sure the shifter linkages on the box have the spacers and clips for the cables and that the gears go in smoothly.
U'll need cables and a shifter for your specific vehicle. Sometimes cables in the scrapyards are mismatched and the gears don't line up. U'll end up getting 1st and 2nd, but hafta coax it sideways to get 3rd and 4th...or vice versa...u get what I mean. Push come to shove, u could get cables made, but try to get an OEM pair cuz it's cheaper n' easier...and make sure the clips and rubber seals where they go thru the firewall are good.
Clutch pedal and master cylinder. I've seen conversions where they shorten the sides of the brake pedal footpad, but try not to ghetto it, buy the pedal conversion - brake and clutch pedal.
ECU. Are you ratching it, or are you getting a manual harness and ECU? If no to the ECU, some electricians know how to hotwire the neutral start switch and tweak the harness so the A/T ECU "thinks" u're still automatic.