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DIY 4A-GE 20V alternator upgrade

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Hook
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DIY 4A-GE 20V alternator upgrade

Postby Hook » November 7th, 2012, 11:39 am

Okay, so it's not much of a DIY thread really, but more of a heads-up.

The stock 20V alternator is 70A, but a little bigger doesn't hurt, right? Lights not as bright, your "big 3" upgrade not particularly effective, time to change the alternator...why not upgrade one time, right?

Apparently the 1G alternator from the A/T GXE10 Altezza is 100A and works up just fine.
But there are some minor differences.

(Warning: Pics taken with 8520 potato)

BTW, I'm omitting the parts where you need to remove your intake box to get to the alternator...loosen 14nut on tensioner pulley, use long extension to reach down behind dipstick and loosen 14bolt on tensioner, remove belt, alternator has 12bolt on top bracket, 14bolt below, walk it out...la la la helicopter...it's out.

Comparing the alternators, you'll notice the difference in size.
IMG00486-20121103-1438.jpg

100A unit is on the right...like comparing a grapefruit to a tennis ball ent?
Then there's the orientation of the plugs (shown in pic below). The pin designation is the same (S-IG-L), but it just faces a different direction on the unit.

If your car comes with the round plug, just buy the oval plug for small money in a parts place or from an electrician who might have a cut up harness somewhere. The colour code is the same, so you can solder it in yourself.

You'll also notice another difference (or at least, you're SUPPOSED to notice).
IMG00488-20121106-1139.jpg

Check the pulleys. They're different. 4PK on the 100A unit and 5PK on the stock unit.
(yes, it's a different alternator on the left this time, I wanted to swap pulleys from an old unit with a bad bearing, then I remembered to take a pic, but too lazy to go back n' get the one I just took out of the car)

Anyway, these pulleys are NOT swappable since the rotor shafts are different diameters. Again, check an electrician who'll usually have old blown alternators to scrap a 5PK pulley from and they'll swap it for u for small money.

When you're done, it's time to bolt it in. The lower alternator mount has a small spacer (circled) that closes in when you tighten it up, so you'll need to open it up, either by tapping it with a hammer OR squeezing it in with a G-clamp and a socket.
Remember how you had to walk the old alternator out? This takes the work out of putting in the new one.
(not my pic)
alt_bracket.jpg



Now, the 20V top bracket needs to swing about a millimeter up for the top of the alternator to bolt in. You'll need to remove the bracket and open up that hole (circled) in the pic. Remove the cam gear cover to get to the lower bolt with a 12 spanner.
The chuck on my drill only opens up to 3/8" so that's what I used and it worked.
IMG00487-20121106-0916.jpg



When you're mounting up everything, mount it up slack at first to ensure everything lines up, then tighten. If you want, you can upgrade your charge wire that goes to the battery while you're down in there. The belt is a 5PK840 in case u were wondering.

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sadique
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Re: DIY 4A-GE 20V alternator upgrade

Postby sadique » November 9th, 2012, 9:13 pm

good info..nice upgrade!

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black start
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Re: DIY 4A-GE 20V alternator upgrade

Postby black start » November 12th, 2012, 4:25 pm

decent upgrade....additional 30 amps...

Mrparkup
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Re: DIY 4A-GE 20V alternator upgrade

Postby Mrparkup » April 8th, 2017, 12:01 am

Where in south could this be done? Old thread but is a new problem for me.
I heard a tiida alternator could work on the black top 20v

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