Postby TESTED performance » March 21st, 2013, 1:02 am
I got it COMPLETELY wrong then and I apologize. You are doing a normally aspirated 7A/4A build for your daily driver, with no immediate plans of turbo charging, and that changes EVERYTHING.
I would not accept the challenge of a 7AGE NA build for many many manyyyyy reasons. This statement should not discourage you but you should be aware that it is possible to go through this entire process and end up right back where you started in terms of seat of the pants feel.
Here are the top 2 reasons why:
1) COST- You are obviously looking at a low cost rebuild solution and this will effectively rule out upgraded ECU, camshafts, custom high compression pistons, and lightened rods which are vital to at least ensure that torque gains from the increase in displacement are actually detectable away from the dyno.
The REAL reason the 20V blacktop feels so much more lively than the silvertop is because of its holistic approach to improving performance instead of focusing on just a single aspect.
The combined effect of better induction, lighter rods/pistons, increased compression, reworked port geometry, increased valve opening distance and duration, all work together to provide that more lively response of the blacktop. Do you really think if you took a silvertop engine and tuned the air fuel ratio a bit that you can't get the extra 5 horse power of the blacktop? Of course you can but you'd never be able to feel the difference on the road. The main advantage the blacktop has is the engine's response and obviously if you remove the light weight blacktop pistons and rods from the equation there is no way the response/rev characteristic will remain the same using heavier components. Add to that your new increased stroke specification and the piston has to travel further up and down, resulting in even more parasitic losses to the engine's ability to gain revs quickly.
At this point whatever advantage you gained from the larger displacement by way of increases in torque will only help with fuel economy over long distances at steady cruise speeds but at higher RPM with wide open throttle the response will not feel much different from a well maintained 1.6 blacktop. To make matters worse because of the cost factor you're pretty much locked out of the blacktop option since your increased displacement acts as an increase in volumetric efficiency and this cannot be automatically compensated for by the factory ECU from a MAP sensor as most people believe. It will probably feel fantastic on super but that will be as a direct result of creating a permanently lean condition that cannot be corrected by the ECU and it will gladly switch to some failsafe compensation map that either burns way more fuel than usual or it may remain with the existing fuel ratio and retard timing till the engine puts out the same power as a solar powered lawn mower.
Your only hope of getting the best result would now fall squarely on the shoulders of the silver top platform where the air flow sensor can account for the change in volumetric efficiency and aid the ecu in adjusting ignition timing and fuel delivery for safe reliable operation on 92RON petrol.
2) Actual Gains- Just stop for a second and visualize all the headache you have undertaken so far and are about to undertake for the project to be completed. Now ask yourself this... If a bone stock 20V blacktop 1.6 engine will easily output 115 ft lbs of torque with nothing but intake and exhaust modifications, are you comfortable going through everything you're about to for a gain of only 10 more lbft of torque? Yep I said TEN! from past experience even though I have not done the 7AGTE upgrade I can BET you 100 bucks right now that you will not squeeze anymore than about 125 lbft of torque out of this as an NA project, and for me that's a deal breaker right there.
Even though this doesn't help I hope it at least adds perspective.