ae110 brake problems

racergt · Postby **racergt** » May 7th, 2014, 1:24 am

yo tuners my rear brake shoes r not lasting long and r making a lot of noise and r grinding down faster than my disc pads. I have changed the shoes to a softer one but it still grinding down fast. my hubs r grinding down too fast, I tried resurfacing the hubs but still making noise and not lasting long. I have been told that they suppose to last a year or more but mine is not and making lots of noise, what could be the cause and solution?

Postby **Hook** » May 7th, 2014, 1:58 pm

Likely your brake shoes are adjusted too tightly. Your rear brakes may be dragging while you drive and wearing prematurely. Is the handbrake lever particularly stiff?

Chuck the front wheels and jack up the back of the car. With the handbrakes down, can you spin the rear wheels by hand? I believe that a proper adjustment should yield at least three full rotations with a single thrust.

Have a different mechanic from the one you're using now release ALL the tension from the handbrake lever, then adjust the rear brakes 'til they're just barely NOT dragging when you spin the drum, then readjust the handbrake lever if necessary.
In the locked position, the handbrake lever should only need about 5 clicks.

racergt · Postby **racergt** » May 7th, 2014, 10:28 pm

the hand brakes is not stiff and the wheel turns freely, sometimes when u jus driving u hearing the noise too, how long r brake shoes suppose to last ?

Postby **Hook** » May 7th, 2014, 11:16 pm

Much longer than the pads in front, that's for sure. What brand brake shoes are you using?

Side note: You know better than to post your seats for sale here. You've been here for three years. Put it where it's supposed to go.

racergt · Postby **racergt** » May 7th, 2014, 11:46 pm

I can t remember the brand but I paid over a 100 for it, sorry about the seats I was putting it in the Toyota thread for sale that eliteauto started , I don t know how it got here, I must have don't something wrong, can u put it for me please?

anthonemorris · Postby **anthonemorris** » May 8th, 2014, 9:10 am

similar problem with my ae91. handbrake is non existent at the moment and have pedal travel over half the distance before i have any braking at all. all after i changed my rear shoes. feeling like i wasted my $$

Postby **Hook** » May 8th, 2014, 1:15 pm

anthonemorris, it's possible your brake shoes are adjusted way too far off the drum.
Again, take all the tension off the handbrake cable, chuck the front, jack up the back and adjust them properly.
The excessive pedal travel may well be a side effect of this, OR, an indication that there's air in your brake lines...or both.
I would think the front brakes would bite first if the issue was just maladjusted brake shoes.

If I were you, I'd completely bleed my brake lines to have some peace-of-mind. Bleed from the furthest from the BMC to the nearest, ie. RL-RR-FL-FR

hyperdude · Postby **hyperdude** » May 8th, 2014, 3:05 pm

sounds like the lines have air
like the guy said bleed the lines

anthonemorris · Postby **anthonemorris** » May 8th, 2014, 10:21 pm

Knew there was a bleeding order. Dem fellas eh know nutting. If I had the time and tools to do it myself I would but hadda face these wannabe mechanics who feel they know.

Postby **Hook** » May 8th, 2014, 11:13 pm

necessity being the mother of invention, I jimmied up something that helps me bleed my brakes by myself, many years ago.

Get a few feet of clear aquarium hose and a one-way air valve off an old carburettor or throttle body. Make sure it only flows in one direction.
Fix the valve onto one end of the hose, such that fluid can only come out, thereby preventing air from entering the line.
Fix the other end onto the bleeder nipple and slacken the bleeder about a quarter turn.
I bleed my brakes into a bucket, and the hose is long enough that all I have to do is open the passenger door and look at what's coming through the hose (bubbles, old dark fluid) to know when that wheel is done.
Pump the brake pedal til fresh fluid with no bubbles comes out the bleeder, being sure to keep the reservoir topped up. The cool thing about this is that you can walk around to the wheel you're bleeding and lock off the nipple and not have to worry about air getting back in.

Do all four in the order, then bleed the bmc if it has a bleeder. You can remove the strainer inside the reservoir and wash out any debris with water, just be sure it's completely dry afterward, and then rinse it in fresh brake fluid before you put it back in.

Then have a beer.