Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
Ronaldo95163 wrote:
agent007 wrote:Hi guys, we had three ae111's, two were locals and the other was a roro. All were equipped with the updated and last iteration of the 4A-FE engine. We also had an ae101 with the 5A-FE engine as well. I saw a lot of references made to compare these motors with the Nissan QG15/16/18 earlier in this thread and in my humble opinion, it was unfair to compare these older Toyota engines to this newer line of Nissan engines. A more fair comparison would be the Nissan GA line of engines. GA15DE to 5A-FE and GA16DE to 4A-FE. The very rare 7A-FE motor afaik was not a JDM spec motor but found it's way in the USDM. That 7A should be compared to the SR18DE. The black top GA16DE NVTCS would be superior to the 4A-FE. In terms of longevity/reliability and fuel economy, the Toyota engines win. With the onset of the 1NZ-FE, a QG15DE doesn't stand a chance and the 3ZZ-FE got superiority over the QG16DE. This continues with the 1ZZ-FE over the QG18DE and SR18DE. USDM AE11x Corolla sedans got 1ZZ motors in its final production run. Anyone wishing to get more power from their E11x chassis better stick a 4A-FE or head straight to 1ZZ. I wish I can get my hands on a local Corolla GLi sedan with a PBK/PBL/PBM registration which were the last 1.6 ae111 sedans TTTL ever imported. If I ever see a stock/original one for sale, I'll pounce on it. Laterz guys.
Sounds like the check valve in the brake booster hose. Or leaking hose.Ronaldo95163 wrote:Did some work on the brakes this weekend. Still having some problems though.
Changed to proportioning valve to the one out of a Lexus RX300, brake lines and change the master cylinder to the one out of the sharkmouth galant ( 1 inch bore...mine (13/16 bore) was bad and I had this lying around)...did all of this because of the rear disc brake conversion as well as the front upgrade to the GT discs and calipers.
Car stops pretty well now. Pads are some cheap stuff so i'm sure it could be better. However the pedal feel is the issue. So like driving for a while the pedal feels pretty normal. Then all of a sudden it gets really firm at times. Not sure if it could be the booster maybe?
If I drive fast the pedal gets like that. Under normal conditions it's pretty normal.
Also sometimes if the car is at a standstill and I pump the brake pedal repeatedly the idle rises by like 500 rpms and stays like that until I stop pumping.
The pedal sinks to the floor however if I hold it there and start the care (the booster test nah). But i not sure if it could probably still be failing :/
Got the clamps as well for the swaybar btw. Car handles much better now. Would definitely recommend doing this mod along with the control arms.
sharaz wrote:Anyone have any tips on where to get shocks and springs?
I hear kdb is the best but it is more expensive (and it not coming with spring and head)
The foreign used shocks are like 1200 for all 4 and they coming with spring and shock head. Whats your taughts on this>
Ronaldo95163 wrote:Manual swap looking feasible rn
black start wrote:Ronaldo95163 wrote:Manual swap looking feasible rn
If you want to get the most out of it, flush with new oem toyota oil and you could try a lucas transmission treatment. I had great results on failing transmission in the past that had the same issue as yours...
Gearbox conversion is nice if you keeping the car, but if affects resale on cars like these.
black start wrote:Yea, that's a sign of it failing. Some guys repair, most just replace.
Manual conversion is nice, but these 4a-fe aint no great power house if you expecting performance.
Could look at a 4age swap?
black start wrote:Get a good cranks, some forged rods and pistons and booce
zorced wrote:Hey guys, looking all over for 2nd gen 4AFE Factory Service Manual.
Trying diagnose trouble codes 24 and 52... The only manual I found online only has up to code 51 so it's probably not the same version.
black start wrote:Then get some aftermarket rods and pistons and keep the compression high
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