Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
Zandolie wrote:Going back to the topic of the thread; knowing other owners is always beneficial when owning specialty vehicles. One you have direct access to a 'Guinea Pig' database for free....well in my case for Cold Caribs (no pun intended), where you can then determine the best path for your driving experience and car. Two you have an idea of where to start and who to call when looking for parts if things break.
In my view, I think the Evo 6 community and Evolutions in general are the most active participants as a Model across ALL Official Motor sport activities in Trinidad; Rally, Drag, Dex. Which means you have a single or plethora of paths to choose from.....Check out any of these events and meet some of the owners to get an idea of mods and performance.
In terms of Daily driving an Evolution, I'm the wrong man...I drive mine predominantly between DusK and Dawn. :twisted:
This might help... Link--> The Mitsubishi MadMen Forumevo6 wrote:...I have a evo 6 and wanted to know what are the best mods for it...
BTW FoamSeal also makes your chassis STIFFER and improves cornering.
Just like a rally car... and safer than using a roll-cage in a street car too.
BTW newer Lancer Cedia's rocker panels are filled with expanded foam from the factory...
Link--> The Truth: ~ About Rollcages & Racing Harnesses.
This causes the most arguments... IMHO leave it as it is for now. Learn to drive your new Evo FIRST.evo6 wrote:Ok. What about cams, headers and re-flashed or aftermarket ecu?
UPGRADE SCHEDULE:
BRAKES: Replace brake fluid... Check/machine/replace rotors... Upgrade disk pads
(Ferodo DS 2500 are excellent... and cheaper than OEM Brembo...
Not sure but "Hawk" may be a bit harsher than "Ferodo" on your rotors.)
STEERING: Replace power steering fluid, steering ends and ball joints (if necessary.).
ENGINE: Replace belts, tensioner, fluids etc.
ADD >>> ARP Cylinder head Stud Kit (for higher boost)... and OEM Evo 8 head gasket.
ADD >>> ARP Con-rod bolts... Insurance! (you already have the head and sump off!)
Replace water-pump and oil-pump. (They are nearly 10 years old.)
. EvoGREEN turbo ($1695 US) for RELIABLE 415 WTQ and 385 WHP on Pump gas!
. 435+ WTQ and 400+ WHP on Pump gas and Water/Meth Injection.
. More is possible with more upgrades... up to 507 WTQ and 443 WHP on C-16 race gas.
>>>>> THE single best mod for torque & power. You also need 720-750 cc Injectors...
Walbro 255 ltr/min HP fuel pump... ECU reflash (not ECUTek.)
>>>>> This is also one of the CHEAPEST turbo upgrades available.
Cams: Street: HKS 272's or similar. HKS 264's aren't much better than stock 'MR' IMHO.
.......... Competition: JUN 272's.
Exhaust:... Use a 2.75-to-3 inch turbo back system... depending on turbo used.
>>> OEM turbo = 2.75" / EvoGREEN = 3" with cheaper Buschur ceramic coated O2 housing.
Headers... Nope! IMHO use ported cast iron exhaust manifold. Doesn't crack like headers
do in daily use. Torque/Power increase from headers alone is small compared to other
mods (above) and reliability suffers IMHO.
BTW mild porting on Intake-to-Throttle body interface helps too.
ECU... Buy an Evo 7 ECU and a Mellon Racing reflash. One of the most effective,
economical reflashes. Multiple reflashes for continuous upgrade program available.
Thanks for all the advice man!!!Sanctifier wrote:evo6 wrote:...I have a evo 6 and wanted to know what are the best mods for it...
This might help...
Link--> The Mitsubishi MadMen Forum
MOST IMPORTANT "MOD": (IMHO)
IMHO a daily driver 1.8 GSR/Evo 4-6 soon becomes tiring/annoying on long trips or in traffic.
>>> (Noise/Vibration & Harshness.) That's the only thing I don't like about both my cars.
Cure is simple... FoamSeal expanded urethane in rocker panels. US kits available (Google.)
>>> ADD another resonator in place of Catalytic converter. Both options are cheap and will
add the most to your driving pleasure. Yup, even more than extra power will IMHO.BTW FoamSeal also makes your chassis STIFFER and improves cornering. :idea:
Just like a rally car... and safer than using a roll-cage in a street car too.
BTW newer Lancer Cedia's rocker panels are filled with expanded foam from the factory...
Link--> The Truth: ~ About Rollcages & Racing Harnesses.evo6 wrote:Ok. What about cams, headers and re-flashed or aftermarket ecu?
This causes the most arguments... IMHO leave it as it is for now. Learn to drive Evo FIRST.
BTW IMHO upgrade for reliability first...UPGRADE SCHEDULE:
BRAKES: Replace brake fluid... Check/machine/replace rotors... Upgrade disk pads
(Ferodo DS 2500 are excellent... and cheaper than OEM Brembo...
Not sure but "Hawk" may be a bit harsher than "Ferodo" on your rotors.)
STEERING: Replace power steering fluid, steering ends and ball joints (if necessary.).
ENGINE: Replace belts, tensioner, fluids etc.
ADD >>> ARP Cylinder head Stud Kit (for higher boost)... and OEM Evo 8 head gasket.
ADD >>> ARP Con-rod bolts... Insurance! (you already have the head and sump off!)
Replace water-pump and oil-pump. (They are nearly 10 years old.)
Maintenance Data: Link--> The Tuners' Guide - Inside Lancer Evolution VIII RS/GSR/MR
>>> Info is almost identical for the Evo 4-6.
If a "tight" budget is your biggest issue... then leave everything stock for now and get an
Evo 7 ECU with a Mellon Racing reflash.
After at least six months... then look for bigger upgrades. Save your $$$ meanwhile.
IMHO if you fiddle with the usual intake, exhaust and a piggyback ECU, you will only
net mild HP gains that you'll get bored with very quickly.
Here's my $0.02? for a reliable, economical and satisfying "daily driver" ... with NO lag!
1st two turbo setups use STOCK short block. No forged internals...no stroker kit...no $$$
That's why I suggested the ARP stud kit and con-rod bolts... :wink:[IMG:5]http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/6000/reddot5x53oj.gif[/img] EvoGREEN turbo ($1695 US) for RELIABLE 415 WTQ and 385 WHP on Pump gas!
[IMG:5]http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/6000/reddot5x53oj.gif[/img] 435+ WTQ and 400+ WHP on Pump gas and Water/Meth Injection.
[IMG:5]http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/6000/reddot5x53oj.gif[/img] More is possible with more upgrades... up to 507 WTQ and 443 WHP on C-16 race gas.
>>>>> THE single best mod for torque & power. You also need 720-750 cc Injectors...
Walbro 255 ltr/min HP fuel pump... ECU reflash (not ECUTek.)
>>>>> This is also one of the CHEAPEST turbo upgrades available.
Cams: Street: HKS 272's or similar. HKS 264's aren't much better than stock 'MR' IMHO.
.......... Competition: JUN 272's.
Exhaust:... Use a 2.75-to-3 inch turbo back system... depending on turbo used.
>>> OEM turbo=2.75" / EvoGREEN=3" with cheaper Buschur ceramic coated O2 housing.
Headers... Nope! IMHO use ported cast iron exhaust manifold. Doesn't crack like headers
do in daily use. Torque/Power increase from headers alone is small compared to other
mods (above) and reliability suffers IMHO.
BTW mild porting on Intake-to-Throttle body interface helps too.
ECU... Buy an Evo 7 ECU and a Mellon Racing reflash. One of the most effective,
economical reflashes. Multiple reflashes for continuous upgrade program available.
MY $0.03??
BLUE_CP9A wrote:Miss this car a lot!
Brent, Shane Here
Be careful who advice you take.
Ok being the previous owner of evo6's car will give the basic run down.
Car is a 1999 Evo 6 GSR
Only Reims Blue in Trinidad (never re-painted)
Never got in an accident
Still has the original engine, turbo and drivetrain from factory
Never Re built or changed Engine or Gearbox, Transfer case
Car was well taken care of and still is.
Fitted with Ralliart Twin Plate Clutch as equipped on some RS Evo VI's
Poly suspension bushings throughout
steel braided brake lines
Has AYC
10.5 Hot side Turbo with 64mm inlet on turbo(Not Titaniun-Aluminum Turbine)
Brent I think you should first look at raising the boost to about 19psi, when I did the car performed very well, The standard computer has a fuel cut that will kick in once you go over that, but its also depends on the conditions outside, colder nights you might feel the cut. If you want I can help you fit the boost controller and set it up with you.
Anything beyond this level of tune you will need to start thinking about the upgrading the Engine ECU and fuel system components, Their are many options available.
I think in the interest of money,reliability and simplicity, I would suggest a plug and play ralliart ECU with upgraded fuel pump, anything other than this you will be looking at a possiblity of damaging something and spending tons of money. Some may beg to differ on this point, but i can't certainly tell you, you don't want the headache and I know this is your daily driver so you want reliability. I researched all options for this car in terms of engine management.
You have a good clutch that can support the power you will be looking for so thats less of a worry now, as that's one of the first things to go with an increase in power with Evos
Your car also has a good sound suspension with poly bushings through out. All Evo VI's are equipped with a camber bolt on the strut, i think before I sold you the car it was on setting for more negative camber(technical manual says -2 degrees but I know its not that much)
I would look at some good brake pads for the next brake pad change. Try the hawks. Car already has steel braided brake lines and one way bleeders.
Call me if you need anymore info
789-9045
Some guys with a golf trying to make some power to come near you but not to worry, they have far to go.
Messi wrote:...who is the tuning men for these cars to get a gas tune?
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