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CY lancer (08 lancer)

Mitsu Lancer, Evo, GSR, MIVEC, 4G**, GDI, Galant, Outlander, L200 Sportero/Triton etc.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby JUS4SHO » November 12th, 2015, 4:30 pm

Be careful with what u on your MAF sensor as Mitsubishi uses the Karman-Vortex design
Let me know if I need to explain more.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby dredman1 » November 12th, 2015, 5:08 pm

spirited721 wrote:The tb is easy to remove and you should remove it ( just 4 bolts). I clean it without removing the attached hoses so i just prop it place. Remove the maf sensor and clean that too. Consider if your transmission oil needs changing or the iacv needs servicing.
CVT fluid is only about 22000km old, and still looks/smells ok.
Would I need a new gasket when replacing the TB after removal?
Will also give the MAF a spray with QD contact cleaner - thanks.
Not too sure about that IACV though. Where on the intake is that? (not seeing it in the service manual)

JUS4SHO wrote:Be careful with what u on your MAF sensor as Mitsubishi uses the Karman-Vortex design
Let me know if I need to explain more.
Didn't take it out yet, but it looks similar to the one in my Mazda 3. My old DSM had a Karman Vortex MAF, but it doesn't look like this one in the CY4A. Will see when I remove it, but is it ok to just spray the little resistor like sensors in it with electrical contact cleaner and let it dry? I know not to physically touch them (I'm assuming it has these).

Anything other than air filter, spark plugs, tranny fluid, oil & filter thus far will be new to me with this car, so I'm just working with a basic understanding for now and from experience with DIYing on my other cars.

Any guidance though would be appreciated that would save me time and trouble, or before I mess something up :) Will try to take some pics during the work for the benefit of others in future.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby invader » November 12th, 2015, 9:28 pm

Same problem with my car... Didn't try to fix it yet... I Think might be the battery... It happens sometime when the ac is on and when I leave for work on mornings

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby moses_boss12 » November 16th, 2015, 2:17 pm

Good Day Guys

Looking at the new lancer and noticed the stock stereo has a USB option, however when i asked about this they said the car doesnt have a USB port, anyone ever found a way around this ( besides changing the deck)..is there anyway you can get the stock stereo system to utilize the USB ?

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby A.W.O.L » November 16th, 2015, 3:17 pm

Closest to wat u want that I know of...


https://youtu.be/seyiixtO4pw

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby jcrew » November 16th, 2015, 8:18 pm

moses_boss12 wrote:Good Day Guys

Looking at the new lancer and noticed the stock stereo has a USB option, however when i asked about this they said the car doesnt have a USB port, anyone ever found a way around this ( besides changing the deck)..is there anyway you can get the stock stereo system to utilize the USB ?
mines came with the USB port in the glove box. Some of the salespersons don't even know that it's located there.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby agent007 » November 20th, 2015, 8:32 am

hey guys, not sure if it was discussed before but any of you all invested in the double DIN dash kit? I'm looking at one online but not sure if there would be a difference for LHD vs RHD? Any help to point me in the right direction would be appreciated, thanks.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby A.W.O.L » November 20th, 2015, 9:05 am

Scosche MI3019B / MI3019
Installation Kit for 2008-up Mitsubishi Lancer (Works with Both Double DIN and Single DIN)

Ebay

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby JUS4SHO » November 20th, 2015, 7:09 pm

A.W.O.L wrote:Scosche MI3019B / MI3019
Installation Kit for 2008-up Mitsubishi Lancer (Works with Both Double DIN and Single DIN)

Ebay


I bought over six different brands. The Scosche fits best but it's not perfect

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby Albezel21 » November 21st, 2015, 12:28 pm


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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby agent007 » November 25th, 2015, 9:45 pm

Thanks for the response guys.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby moses_boss12 » November 26th, 2015, 7:23 pm

Have anyone one of you guys, had your headlights retro fitted, non HID headlights

Can you just share the experience, light output and just basically the process involved

Also if you can say where you got it done and the cost

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby Xecutive » November 30th, 2015, 5:53 pm

agent007 wrote:hey guys, not sure if it was discussed before but any of you all invested in the double DIN dash kit? I'm looking at one online but not sure if there would be a difference for LHD vs RHD? Any help to point me in the right direction would be appreciated, thanks.



I actually used this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00845AT ... UTF8&psc=1

Wasn't 100% perfect but it did the job. As with most dash kits, it would require removing the AC vents from the old bezel and putting them on the new kit. There was a minor gap between the deck and the inner surround of the dash kit but there was a frame provided in this kit which I epoxied to the surround to help fill the space. I selected this particular kit because the silver trim adds a nice touch to the rest of the vehicle's interior. If I get a chance I'll take a pic to show the outcome

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby Xecutive » December 3rd, 2015, 8:29 pm

The install:
ImageUploadedByTriniTuner1449188881.024030.jpg


Not a perfect fit but does the job
ImageUploadedByTriniTuner1449188894.917182.jpg


Had to epoxy the frame to the inner surround. Barely shows though

ImageUploadedByTriniTuner1449188919.265199.jpg

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby A.W.O.L » December 5th, 2015, 12:19 pm

Nice...

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby agent007 » December 7th, 2015, 8:08 am

Nice fit
Last edited by agent007 on March 31st, 2016, 2:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby shotlock » December 8th, 2015, 8:41 am

Has anyone here ordered from rainbow pen before ???


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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby LancerSuperStar » December 24th, 2015, 2:16 am

shotlock wrote:Has anyone here ordered from rainbow pen before ???


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Hey shotlock,

If it’s the rainbow pen from china, I know someone who bought GT front bumper and associated fog lights, mounting clips, etc from them.
They do all their communications through their facebook page and facebook messages and they take your credit card information through facebook as well (personally i don’t like this idea but this was 4 years ago so they may have a PayPal account, message them to find out).
Anyway all items are priced in US$ and they ship their products out of china.
NOTE: If its large parts, like the bumper, they fold it up to save on cost, but you usually have to strengthen it out with a heat gun.

The items are not original Mitsubishi as they claim but very identical and the plastic in the bumper was abs so it didn't not crack or tear however after resembling everything, the alignment was off by a couple mm (nothing more than 3 or 4).
I recommend you ship from china to your skybox in the US as its faster (takes about 3 weeks to a month on standard shipping outside of the holiday season to reach in Trinidad).

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby LancerSuperStar » December 24th, 2015, 2:35 am

agent007 wrote:Very nice fit there!

I posted on the new car prices thread. Current Lancer prices:

GLX 1.6 - $150k comes with dual front and driver's knee airbag (total 3)
GT 2.0 - $240k 3 airbags as well.

Note: the GT in the showroom is the 4B11 motor with normal power steering pump. It has 2 head rests in the back, no HID's, no AFS and no front strut bar.

The GLX 1.6 is the upgraded 4A92 1.6 dohc mivec engine with power steering pump. The previous 4A91 1.5 came with electric power steering. I saw a roro Galant Fortis with the 4B10 engine and that came with EPS.

Questions to the CY gurus:

Can a 4a91 be upgraded to a 4a92 and keep the EPS or rack must be changed?
Can a 4a92 completely swap out for a 4B11?
Can the 4a91 take the power steering pump if the EPS fails?

I'm a bit confused with how Mitsubishi packages these Lancers...so many perms and coms :?


agent007,

The EPS is supposed to have a separate control module that works with the car's brain and I'm not sure if removing this or the EPS unit will cause the car to think there is a problem and throw a "service now" error or prevent if from starting all together.

As far as doing an engine swap from the 4A91 to the 4B11, I don't think is worth the effort as you have to swap the engine, transmission, engine harness, and fuse box (yes the 1.5L has a different fusebox to the 2.0L) and the cost to have this done would be justifiable over the power gains.

Still this is an interesting topic and might be a good project if you get your hands on a manual GT front half for small money.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby A.W.O.L » December 24th, 2015, 8:15 am

Was by my mech an shop talk was about a guy who convert from cvt to gearbox on a 4b11 engine....not sure wat was done but they say he was running good...

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby Mini » December 27th, 2015, 6:38 am

How much do the GT's go for used (local). What are the other differentiating features (besides the 2.0, CVT and wheels)

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby Dave » December 27th, 2015, 10:27 am

Paddles, bigger front brakes and obviously a 4b11 engine :grin:

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby A.W.O.L » December 27th, 2015, 10:48 am

Mine may be for sale next year 8-)

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby agent007 » December 27th, 2015, 3:38 pm

Good info thanks
Last edited by agent007 on March 31st, 2016, 2:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby A.W.O.L » December 27th, 2015, 4:12 pm

But the only difference wit mine an the gt badged lancer is rear disc brakes an the steering control..

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby Mini » December 27th, 2015, 9:52 pm

Thanks. On the market for a new (used) ride. Anyone have a link in DM to pull the service history on a vehicle?

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby Dave » December 27th, 2015, 9:57 pm

With the kind of horror stories that might be more of a deterrent that an enticement

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby dredman1 » December 28th, 2015, 12:55 am

A.W.O.L wrote:But the only difference wit mine an the gt badged lancer is rear disc brakes an the steering control..
I assume this means your car has rear drum brakes? If so, does it have the rear anti-sway bar?

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby dredman1 » December 28th, 2015, 2:36 am

dredman1 wrote:I recently (like the last week or so) started having an issue where the car responds to throttle inputs very jerky, particularly in traffic. Sometimes when pressing the accelerator to move off to a slow speed in traffic the car seems to hesitate/slightly buck, and sometimes when lifting off the throttle (at slow traffic speeds) the engine seems to jerk somewhat. This is especially prevalent with the a/c on.

The car runs fine when driving at normal highway speeds or accelerating hard.

I'm thinking that the throttle body/TPS may need cleaning, so I'm trying to see if I can do this myself (at least even partially) to see if it would help with my issue.

For the older CY4A heads here, I'm looking at some of the advice given earlier in the thread as the topic seems to have been raised before:

trvs wrote:
anthonyanthony wrote:Never did the throttle body clean out but from what I read it is done like this according to service manual.
1) Get a throttlebody cleaner ( not sure what brand maybe trvs or sho can recommend)

2) remove rubber intake tube/hose from throttle body.

3) have someone put keys in and switch to ON... not START ..do not start vehicle. Press down on gas pedel. Throttle valve should open fully.


4) apply cleaner on lintfree cloth and clean inside of throttlebody and valve with cloth.

5) switch off , reattach hose and check.

Other tuners comment , add pics etc.


That's the steps.

We used Amsoil Power Foam.

JUS4SHO wrote:
anthonyanthony wrote:SHO , you mean throttle body cleanout.
As far as I know the cy electronic throttle has the tps (throttle position sensor) built into the body
so I cant see how it can be cleaned.

Albrezel21 , had mine for nearly 4 years and approx 72000 km and no issues.
I also use super fuel.


Correct to properly clean throttle body it must be removed. Don't just spray into it.

Going to clean my air filter and then give the steps in the first quote above (without removing the TB) a try over the weekend with the CRC or BARS cleaner to see if it helps.

Any other suggestions I can try otherwise, or any other advice/tips for cleaning the TB and TPS?

dredman1 wrote:
spirited721 wrote:The tb is easy to remove and you should remove it ( just 4 bolts). I clean it without removing the attached hoses so i just prop it place. Remove the maf sensor and clean that too. Consider if your transmission oil needs changing or the iacv needs servicing.
CVT fluid is only about 22000km old, and still looks/smells ok.
Would I need a new gasket when replacing the TB after removal?
Will also give the MAF a spray with QD contact cleaner - thanks.
Not too sure about that IACV though. Where on the intake is that? (not seeing it in the service manual)

JUS4SHO wrote:Be careful with what u on your MAF sensor as Mitsubishi uses the Karman-Vortex design
Let me know if I need to explain more.
Didn't take it out yet, but it looks similar to the one in my Mazda 3. My old DSM had a Karman Vortex MAF, but it doesn't look like this one in the CY4A. Will see when I remove it, but is it ok to just spray the little resistor like sensors in it with electrical contact cleaner and let it dry? I know not to physically touch them (I'm assuming it has these).

Anything other than air filter, spark plugs, tranny fluid, oil & filter thus far will be new to me with this car, so I'm just working with a basic understanding for now and from experience with DIYing on my other cars.

Any guidance though would be appreciated that would save me time and trouble, or before I mess something up :) Will try to take some pics during the work for the benefit of others in future.


Although I did this a few weeks ago, I'm only now getting a chance to post this :oops: . Tried to compile all the previous posts above together with this how-to, in order to keep all the information in one post.

Should you decide to follow these steps, you do so at your own risk, since I’m not a qualified mechanic :lol:

I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor with the hopes of curing the problem in my initial post above. The throttle body had a lot of black gunk around the throttle plate and where the plate met the housing.

I also cleaned my drop-on K&N, as it was filthy (didn't realise how long it was since I last cleaned it).

The above helped a lot. It's still not completely back to normal, but MUCH better than before (I’d say 85-90% improvement).

However, I did not unbolt and remove the throttle body to clean it. I just removed the intake hose and wiped the gunk from where I could reach, so it's not 100% cleaned (there were obviously some places I could not reach with my hands with it still bolted to the intake plenum. But I'm almost certain another good cleaning with proper tools and accessories to reach the hard-to-reach places, or removing the TB and cleaning it fully, would fix the last little bit of hesitation I still have.

The MAF though you have to unscrew and remove, and spray MAF cleaner or electrical contact cleaner to clean. Mine did not look dirty, but I cleaned it anyway for completeness.

Note this is all for the 2.0 4B11 engine. I’m not sure if the TB and MAF are the same on the 1.5/1.6 models.

Some things to note from further research online:

• The 2.0 has an electronic throttle, so you should not manually move the plate with your hand. Instead, have someone turn the ignition to ON (note: do NOT start the car), floor the accelerator and hold it down for you, in order to open the valve. Have them hold down the accelerator for however long you need to clean the TB.
• Also do not spray TB cleaner directly in or onto the TB plate or center shaft, as fluid getting into the TB can mess with the electronics. Spray the cleaner on a clean, lint free cloth and wipe the dirty areas until clean. Use as much cloth and cleaner as may be needed to fully clean the relevant areas.
• The TB plate has a layer of grey coating which is actually a thin film of lubricant/sealant applied from the factory on the left and right sides at the back of the plate that looks like carbon deposits (it’s actually a molybdenum disulfide grease). Do not rub/scrape that stuff off as it helps to seal between the TB plate and where the plate meets the housing when it’s closed. If you scrape it off, your TB plate will be nice and shiny, but it may affect your idle by not sealing correctly. A gentle wipe should be sufficient to remove any actual soot/carbon on top of this coating, but not remove the coating itself.
• When cleaning the MAF, do not use the extension tube on the spray nozzle. Also, when spraying the cleaner, make sure you hold the nozzle some distance (like 6 to 9 inches) away from the components. This is so that a strong stream of cleaner does not damage the components. Obviously, do not also physically touch or make contact with any of the components on the MAF.
• Make sure when mounting back the intake hose and MAF sensor that they are both properly mounted, tightened, and sealed.

Pics of TB and MAF sensor below for reference.

1. Unscrew the bottom of the rubber intake hose from the TB housing (screw shown by red arrow). It is very tight for space down there, so you may have to unclip the TB connector (circled in red) to get room to do this.
1.jpg



2. Unscrew the top of the rubber intake hose from the MAF housing. You should now be able to move the intake hose out of the way fully to get at the TB.
2.jpg



3. The TB plate and inside of the housing exposed. If you zoom in you can see the black carbon and soot on the circumference of the plate and on the inside of the TB housing where the plate makes contact with it when it is fully closed.
3.jpg



4. Clean both the front and back of the TB plate, the center shaft, and the area of the TB housing around where the plate touches when fully closed. To do this, you would have to re-connect the connector unclipped in photo 1 above, so that someone can depress the accelerator and open the plate. The pic below shows most of the soot and carbon removed.
4.jpg



5. After cleaning the TB and with the car switched OFF, unclip the MAF connector and unscrew it from the housing to remove it. Note these 2 screws were pentalobe screws, so your regular flathead or Phillips screwdriver won’t work.
5.jpg



6. The MAF exposed. Clean the little red diode and the silver piece in the opening of the center shaft with MAF cleaner. Do not touch or apply a strong stream of spray to these components. Make sure the MAF dries fully before reinstalling.
6.jpg
7.jpg
8.jpg

I used CRC Throttle Body cleaner for the TB, and CRC Quick Dry Electrical Contact Cleaner for the MAF.

There you go. For those of you with erratic idle, surges in traffic and poor fuel economy, the above steps should at least help give some improvement to your Lancer’s driveability 8-)

Note the idle rpm would be higher after the cleaning. This persisted for a while, but corrected itself back to normal rpm after a few days of driving once the ECU got accustomed to the new idle airflow.

Feel free to add anything I may have missed or correct anything that may not be accurate.

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Re: CY lancer (08 lancer)

Postby JennyLancer » December 30th, 2015, 12:24 am

Hello all! Im relatively new here and i needed some help with my 2010 CY2A Lancer. I plan on doing some basic mods (so far ive changed stock rotors to slotted EBC rotors with Redstuff Pads and K&N Drop in air filter) Im really interested in finding out where i can get a Greddy RS axle-back exhaust (part #10137101) 60mm piping as all thats available online is the one with 63.5mm piping (pretty sure this wont work for my application). I really appreciate any feedback and i look forward to becoming a regular here (Best Thread EVERRRRR!!!) Cheers!

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