Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
As Bullet said; pretty straightforward for CK-to-Evo 4 4WD upgrade.FLEX wrote:if i have an evo 4 and a ck lancer what mods do i need to do to the ck lancer to tansplant
everything fromt he evo into the ck??urgent
Get the chassis brackets for rear top-arm mounting points.
Rear suspension upper arms will not bolt in without it.
BTW if you intend to upgrade power eventually, pay attention to these...Use E4 front and rear suspension arms. E5-E6 has wider track. Tyres will "stick out."
E4 front struts will work but E5-E6 have better front dampers than E4.
Use E5-E9 calipers/rotors/17" rims/master cylinder & booster etc.
Some later 8"-wide rims (E7-E9) may require slight fender-arch rolling for tyre clearance.
Service is available locally. Do a search on 3ne 2nr.
Get E5-E9 ECU AND full wiring harness. E4 ECU and harness has different "pin-out."
Use E5-E9 injectors (560 cc/min.) E4 injectors are smaller (510 cc/min.)
E5-E9 cams (and head) are better than E4 cams (and head) too.
For turbo upgrade (EvoGREEN?) use E6-E9 block. Some E4 blocks suffer from "crank walk."
FLEX wrote:if i have an evo 4 and a ck lancer what mods do i need to do to the ck lancer to tansplant everything fromt he evo into the ck??urgent
honda hoe wrote:FLEX wrote:if i have an evo 4 and a ck lancer what mods do i need to do to the ck lancer to tansplant everything fromt he evo into the ck??urgent
won't it be easier to swap firewalls?
honda hoe wrote:...won't it be easier to swap firewalls?
Rudman wrote:Honda Hoe, for someone who is/was involved in customs, yuh does suprise me sometimes.....
wha customs hadda do wit licencing?... Everything.honda hoe wrote:wha customs hadda do wit licencing?...
i don't see the sense in transferring parts between the 2 cars
If you just swap firewalls (and chassis numbers) then the new car still has not paid
Motor Vehicle Tax... or VAT... According to Licensing Commissioner a monocoque bodyshell
(chassis and body in one piece) is classed as a car under the Act, not as just a car part.
So it's not legally Registered... so Insurance Certificate is invalid (wrong chassis number)...
So they confiscate your car... also you're driving without valid Insurance... so pay a big fine...
They may suspend your Driver's Permit too... Not sure if jail time is included... You get the point.
Sanctifier wrote:^ ^ ^ Thanks Bullet. Happy New Year. How is the E7 upgrade going?
Sanctifier wrote:wha customs hadda do wit licencing?... Everything.honda hoe wrote:wha customs hadda do wit licencing?...
i don't see the sense in transferring parts between the 2 carsIf you just swap firewalls (and chassis numbers) then the new car still has not paid
Motor Vehicle Tax... or VAT... According to Licensing Commissioner a monocoque bodyshell
(chassis and body in one piece) is classed as a car under the Act, not as just a car part.
So it's not legally Registered... so Insurance Certificate is invalid (wrong chassis number)...
So they confiscate your car... also you're driving without valid Insurance... so pay a big fine...
They may suspend your Driver's Permit too... Not sure if jail time is included... You get the point.
That why it's impossible under the Act to "sell rights" to an imported shell/car.
No duty or VAT paid = No Registration or Chassis Number = Nothing to "sell" legally.
Con-man get yuh $$$... and you to catch with the Police and Licensing Office.
honda hoe wrote:...well if u wanna get all LEGAL
My $0.02¢Sanctifier wrote:BTW a CK "Lancer 2000" should be cheaper to insure than an Evolution 5 or 6".
IMHO all E1s - E7s and some E8s (foreign used or local) need a thorough body-job, if not a complete restoration.cornell wrote:Thought of that too sanctifier....but looking at some IVs that are presently on the road...will have to examine the firewalls of those IVs closer to see if there are any signs of it being tampered with....saw a V down central, low 60's ($) but looks like too much headache with body work.
Sanctifier wrote:I won't put BIG $$$ into any project without total preparation. Can't afford to waste the time or $$$ to do it over again.
(...Even if you have to wait for as long as I had to, before I could afford to do it properly.)
My $0.02¢Sanctifier wrote:I strongly suggest using a "closed cell" (can't absorb water) expanded urethane foam like FoamSeal or Teracore after bodywork (& chassis work) is done, to completely fill all the spaces in the chassis rails (& other "box sections")...
(Use ONLY the specification designed for auto chassis.)
No spaces = No place for Mud & Moisture to settle = Clean DRY metal = NO RUST!... at least not for a VERY long time.
BTW this also helps to stiffen the chassis for better "turn-in & handling."
And for those fans of roll-cages for street cars... this eliminates the danger involved...
... Link--> The Truth: ~ About Rollcages & Racing Harnesses.
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