trinituner.com

mikhai wrote:

tropi_flakes wrote:Good night people first time cs3 owner here but i think i bought an egg. I purchased one about a week ago for the wife to run around with ( daycare and work same area ) so i know its not gonna get any kind of abuse. The last car she had it 3 years and didn't even make a good 18000k on it. Anyways to sum it up the car works fine when the place is cool or open road, no overheating or anything but as soon as the place is really hot or in traffic and you stop and leave it in drive the car start to idle very very heavy, slap it in neutral and the idle is fine ( car dead silent) soon as you start to roll again and stop same thing heavy idle ( the temp gauge stays on half tho) so no over heating. Both fans are also work very good in the car evrything is fine unless in traffic or better yet if the car is on for more than 2 hours.
Also had one time i felt like there was delay in gearing down when i had to apply brakes suddenly, car came to a complete stop but you still felt the tranny gearing down to first

Engine in the car is the 1.8
Vehicle is a pce glx ( Singapore )

Is the fan always on? Similar things happened to me and it ends up Relay Radiator Cooling Fan Control problem.
Do a search on this part #1355A124 , it uses in Mazda as well. No more high RPM after I change it.

Dave wrote:Iacv?

Primo-El wrote:

Dave wrote:Iacv?

Where can I get one jed... This gonna drive me mad

Parvin wrote:Can anyone advise me how to fix a stuck fuel filler latch?

Pulling the lever does not release the latch. It has to be pressed or pried while the release lever is pulled.

Parvin wrote:Can anyone advise me how to fix a stuck fuel filler latch?

Pulling the lever does not release the latch. It has to be pressed or pried while the release lever is pulled.

Hassan wrote:Newbie here to this site. my problem is best described as copied here-under by Groundcontrol » July 20th, 2014. Has anyone found a solution.

Thanks in advance.

{Okay guys.i have a Local 2004 Mitsubishi lancer CS3.
The car has a standard 4g18 engine with a standard CVT Tranny.
My cars lacks power.Extreme loss of power.
I feel the power there but its like something is holding the car back.
When climbing inclines the cars runs out of power and sometimes won't make it up depending on the incline.And thats with a wide open throttle(pedal to the metal)
In reverse the cars barely moves.
Also if i cold start and i drive it i get this sorta jig saw back and forth feeling from the car until it warms up a bit.
The engine sounds noticably heaver when idling also.
Over the past 4 months i've been trying to tackle this issue but still the problems exists.
First off.There's no check engine light on.The car drives fine when say i'm doing 60 to 80 on the speedo but say if i decide to press for acceleration the car revs out and goes nowhere.The speed barely increases.The engine would rev but no acceleration.
Things i have tried over the past 4 months to diagnose problem include:
Take car the for engine error code scan.
Change transmission oil
Change engine oil
Change air filter
Change plugs
Change valve cover seal rubbers and gaskets.
Clean injectors
Clean throttle body
Change CAM sensor
Change Crank sensor
Change MAF sensor
Clean IAC sensor
Clean TPS sensor
Clean fuel pump filter
Check fuel pressure
Test MAF,IAC,TPS,O2 sensors manually with voltmeter
Manually inspect exhaust for clogg
Remove catalyc converter
Check engine timing.

Everything that was checked or changed or tested is and works within their intended range.No fault codes or faulty sensors.}

Parvin wrote:Fuel latch issue sorted thanks too @trent

What are the part numbers for the fuel filter and cabin filter? And the correct spark plugs (4G18) ?


2008 CS3

trent wrote:

Parvin wrote:Fuel latch issue sorted thanks too @trent

What are the part numbers for the fuel filter and cabin filter? And the correct spark plugs (4G18) ?


2008 CS3

np,

spark plugs: MS851358
Bkr6e-11

wagonrunner wrote:Where can i get 4g18 spark plug wires?
The replacements thus far all seem to have the stems (part to plug) too long and don't seal properly to the tappet cover.
Or of the same length wire, so lead rests on tappet cover.

fras wrote:Double Din Kit here... Just to buy a head unit monthend, then install!
Kit cost $800ttd landed... Shipped from uk to us then tt!


This is my dash presently


And this is what it should look like after conversion


http://www.lancermotoringclub.com/showthread.php?19357-D-I-Y-CS3-2DIN-amp-A-C-Fascia-MOD