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Ignorant Ignis wrote:what spark plugs did u use ?
chris1388 wrote:sometimes even if the coil pack has correct resistance reading it may still be damaged, if u can...switch them with the packs on the swift and that will pretty much rule them out.
tourniquet wrote:after everything you changed, and cleaned, did you reset the ecu?
spanglish1 wrote:check the pcv valve at the top of the engine.check your vacuum hoses for cracks and make sure they are connected properly.could be your throttle body that needs servicing or tps sensor
*KRONIK* wrote:tourniquet wrote:after everything you changed, and cleaned, did you reset the ecu?
yea...
i had the battery disconnected while i was changing the plugs ...
so dat was enuff time for the ECU to reset...
this always worked for me so i really not sure wat went wrong this time...
tourniquet wrote:that's all it takes? so all this time I've been:
removing negative, waiting about a 25mins,
turning the ignition to the ACC position for about 5mins,
starting and leaving to idle for about 7 mins,
and finally, restart and take a lil drive
all this could be avoided with just completely disconnecting the battery for a fair amount of time and just reconnecting?
guess it's just a force of habit for me yes; you learn something everyday
anyway, glad to know you got sorted out, but just out of curiosity, which branch did you go to?
chris1388 wrote:Kronik the man wasnt being sarcastic...he was just saying he did not know that just removing the negative from the battery was all that had to be done to reset the ECU. He was listing all that he used to do.
And it does NOT take 20-30mins to reset....the service manual specifically states the pole need only be disconnected for 2 minutes at a particular ambient temperature...this is for M series engines.
tourniquet wrote:chris1388 wrote:Kronik the man wasnt being sarcastic...he was just saying he did not know that just removing the negative from the battery was all that had to be done to reset the ECU. He was listing all that he used to do.
And it does NOT take 20-30mins to reset....the service manual specifically states the pole need only be disconnected for 2 minutes at a particular ambient temperature...this is for M series engines.
thanks for clearing that up for me, that's exactly why I bothered to list my method, just in case I was doing something wrong/ less efficient all along. As for *KRONIK*, what can I say man, that's customer service in good ole T&T, you pay for a service, and get opinions and criticism tossed in for free; hell sometimes you go through all of that and still your issue isn't resolved At the end of the day though, at least you can be thankful it's over and done with.
spanglish1 wrote:i had similiar issues. i have changed 2 blowers already under warranty.There is a resistor that is located somewhere near the blower that seems to be going bad every so often.it was supposed to be changed the last time the ac stopped working. the part wasnt in stock so i assumed they repaired the part because the ac worked when i left LSM and this was in March 2012. So last week it stopped working again and took it straight to LSM. they checked it and said it was working when they started the car.they said a full check of the ac system revealed no issues but they indicated that if it does happen again the compressor needs to be replaced. so now i wait to see how long it lasts before i go back again.
i do all my services at the firm i just dont use their oil (shell) because i prefer to use redline and service every 10000kms instead of 5000kms which is a waste of time and money. i wouldnt say i had bad experiences at LSM im just wary of the many issues i heard other fellow suzuki owners complain about so im very observant when i collect my car and always indicate what i would like done to my car to the advisors when it is being dropped off and ensure it is typed in on the service sheet.i double check everything on collection down to the oil ,oil filter to ensure what i requested was actually done to the vehicle.
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