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adnj wrote:In my experience, the hardtails are more efficient for pounding up a hill simply because the rear geometry is much more rigid.VexXx Dogg wrote:I realized the full suspension bikes aren't that good for cross-country - the gearing isn't tall enough for speed. You'll be flailing when riding on road.
I wasn't aware of these things when I was shopping, I lucked out and my MTB bike was 3x8 and has some good top end ratio in addition to a 34T for hillclimbs. It's good for these road/trail rides. Won't be able to keep up with the bajillion dollar road bikes, but I do ok
If you are riding technical trails with road riding mixed in, you can change your gear ring to suit. You don't need to give up tall gears if you really want them.
VexXx Dogg wrote:yup, it's an decent entry level specialized hardtail, pretty good shimano components so shifting is buttery smooth. The hydro brakes are a bloody godsend when descending with twistyturns (downhill from the top of Gran couva into la vega is THE SHIZ)
I appreciate the 3x8, the 44 helps when I need some top end.
I've put it through the paces - over 3000 kms logged on mixed terrain since I bought it 1.5 years ago.
Agreed on the fork lockout. I tend to use it locked more than anything except when the terrain is really horrible. It fscks up my carpal tunnel
VexXx Dogg wrote:650b/27.5
in retrospect, I should have gone 29 and done.
metalgear2095 wrote:VexXx Dogg wrote:650b/27.5
in retrospect, I should have gone 29 and done.
Same thing I thought except I was 26. Was advised by a friend to go 27.5 which is pretty good but 29 would be easier for my lazy ass. That genius I posted can take 27.5, 29 and plus though.
I was saying to actually install a different sized chainring.metalgear2095 wrote:adnj wrote:In my experience, the hardtails are more efficient for pounding up a hill simply because the rear geometry is much more rigid.VexXx Dogg wrote:I realized the full suspension bikes aren't that good for cross-country - the gearing isn't tall enough for speed. You'll be flailing when riding on road.
I wasn't aware of these things when I was shopping, I lucked out and my MTB bike was 3x8 and has some good top end ratio in addition to a 34T for hillclimbs. It's good for these road/trail rides. Won't be able to keep up with the bajillion dollar road bikes, but I do ok
If you are riding technical trails with road riding mixed in, you can change your gear ring to suit. You don't need to give up tall gears if you really want them.
Generally 3x8 is an entry level bike and the granny gear on the cassette is much smaller than a 1x or 2x making it harder to pedal uphill. Entry level bikes are also much heavier as well. Yes a hardtail should be more efficient but most full suspension allow you to lock out the shock to prevent that loss of energy. The Scott bikes allow you to do this remotely with a switch on the handlebars= zero travel on the shock and fork. I'll take a 2x 11/12 or a 1x over a 3x anything anyway. It's a simpler system and does the job better
adnj wrote:I was saying to actually install a different sized chainring.metalgear2095 wrote:adnj wrote:In my experience, the hardtails are more efficient for pounding up a hill simply because the rear geometry is much more rigid.VexXx Dogg wrote:I realized the full suspension bikes aren't that good for cross-country - the gearing isn't tall enough for speed. You'll be flailing when riding on road.
I wasn't aware of these things when I was shopping, I lucked out and my MTB bike was 3x8 and has some good top end ratio in addition to a 34T for hillclimbs. It's good for these road/trail rides. Won't be able to keep up with the bajillion dollar road bikes, but I do ok
If you are riding technical trails with road riding mixed in, you can change your gear ring to suit. You don't need to give up tall gears if you really want them.
Generally 3x8 is an entry level bike and the granny gear on the cassette is much smaller than a 1x or 2x making it harder to pedal uphill. Entry level bikes are also much heavier as well. Yes a hardtail should be more efficient but most full suspension allow you to lock out the shock to prevent that loss of energy. The Scott bikes allow you to do this remotely with a switch on the handlebars= zero travel on the shock and fork. I'll take a 2x 11/12 or a 1x over a 3x anything anyway. It's a simpler system and does the job better
Swap out the offending components if you really like your frame or just buy a frame, components that you want and build it the way that you really want it without the compromises. You don't need to let the bicycle manufacturer decide for you.
VexXx Dogg wrote:nah not a beast nah.
Just trying to be a better me.
I seeing some dudes in their 50's pushing double this, then normal the next day.
I have slight DOMS, because my normal ride is about 60; so I had to push a little harder to wrap this up. My prob is pain in the gluteus maximus lol.
Hoping that we can motivate each other!
metalgear2095 wrote:VexXx Dogg wrote:nah not a beast nah.
Just trying to be a better me.
I seeing some dudes in their 50's pushing double this, then normal the next day.
I have slight DOMS, because my normal ride is about 60; so I had to push a little harder to wrap this up. My prob is pain in the gluteus maximus lol.
Hoping that we can motivate each other!
You wear a padded liner under your shorts?
For two years, I rode Saturday centuries in Lower Indiana and Kentucky with a Trini that was in his 60s.VexXx Dogg wrote:nah not a beast nah.
Just trying to be a better me.
I seeing some dudes in their 50's pushing double this, then normal the next day.
I have slight DOMS, because my normal ride is about 60; so I had to push a little harder to wrap this up. My prob is pain in the gluteus maximus lol.
Hoping that we can motivate each other!
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