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rspann wrote:eitech wrote:adnj wrote:+1matix wrote:eitech wrote:Hey guys so i have a funny scent coming from one of my bathroom drains. I am not sure what it is though, kinda musty. There is no drainage issue or water backup. I tried vinegar/ baking soda, hot water, lye , but the scent refuses to go away. Any helpful advice would be appreciated.
Does that drain line have a water trap?
Some local basin and shower installations lack a trap. It's not code but it is not uncommon.
Stagnant gray water will start to smell in just a day or two.
Additionally, improperly revented drain lines can slow drain line evacuation or empty an attached trap of clean water.
Actually i was able to push a very long piece of stiff wire down d drain to check for clog. If a trap was there i doubt i would be able to do that. But d water drains quite fast too
Case closed ,no trap.
pugboy wrote:looking for about 100ft of 10sq xlp cable
who have best price ?
rspann wrote:pugboy wrote:looking for about 100ft of 10sq xlp cable
who have best price ?
Call meh tomorrow, I'll get wholesale for Yuh.
rspann wrote:Install a trap. Either put it in the floor, or outside on the line if there is place.
+1. If it's just a smell and no clog, two ounces of bleach each week is all you need to reduce the smell and clear some of the pipe of bacteria.pugboy wrote:trap is best way as said above
the pipes likely coated with slime, hair and bacteria
try some of the strong commercial cleaners but if it does remove any it will only remove what is on lower part of pipes where the water runs
so will happen again.
Gray water surface drains.eitech wrote:Quick question: now i know the toilets are tied into the septic tank. Where do ur other drains ( kitchen, bathroom, face basins, jukkin board sink) go to?
eitech wrote:Quick question: now i know the toilets are tied into the septic tank. Where do ur other drains ( kitchen, bathroom, face basins, jukkin board sink) go to?
shake d livin wake d dead wrote:What brand of toilets and basins you all using these days...pressure to find the good old armitage shanks...looking for long lasting thing
pugboy wrote:Long lasting mean internals lasting long ?
I installed two Berkeley and no problems so far,
Not expensive and uses regular type elephant mechanism so will not leak like a rubber flapper type and overflow a septic tank.
I also bought a lotus cheap toilet earlier this year, headache, the parts cheap quality and the base was not made level. Seems the porcelain casting had lumps so toilet rocked and caused leaks in flange.
Had to set toilet down in a cement base.
rspann wrote:Lotus is a good brand, made in Trinidad using the original specs under license. I've been to the factory and saw them putting marks underneath to show the grade. Some hardwares buy the seconds and unless you buy first grade ,you can get those problems. When you buy look for how many red marker strokes are on the bottom in the unglazed part. Lotus are made in colours and sets too. Not like long ago when they were only white.
carluva wrote:pugboy wrote:Long lasting mean internals lasting long ?
I installed two Berkeley and no problems so far,
Not expensive and uses regular type elephant mechanism so will not leak like a rubber flapper type and overflow a septic tank.
I also bought a lotus cheap toilet earlier this year, headache, the parts cheap quality and the base was not made level. Seems the porcelain casting had lumps so toilet rocked and caused leaks in flange.
Had to set toilet down in a cement base.
Which is the elephant mechanism?
mazdatt wrote:Anyone knows any hardware or wood workshop in south that will supply and cut plywood to specific dimensions at a reasonable cost? I need 6 20x23inch 3/4inch pieces.
Would be too much work with a jigsaw...much easier work for a place with a bandsawNR8 wrote:mazdatt wrote:Anyone knows any hardware or wood workshop in south that will supply and cut plywood to specific dimensions at a reasonable cost? I need 6 20x23inch 3/4inch pieces.
Not sure but try Ramkalls.
Can't cut it yourself though?
mazdatt wrote:Anyone knows any hardware or wood workshop in south that will supply and cut plywood to specific dimensions at a reasonable cost? I need 6 20x23inch 3/4inch pieces.
pugboy wrote:Elephant is the siphon type, you have to crank handle harder to get the water up and over to get the siphon effect moving.
Was most common type long ago but flappers may be more common now.
Isn't this posted somewhere else?DASSMASS wrote:What is a fair labor price to tile 1087sqft?
Hey guys someone quoted me but I think its kind of high. What is a fair labor cost for such a job. (upstairs and downstairs house...20" ceramic tiles)
Just bumping this post for some info..low-profile wrote:if the holes are big u can put back some mortar but smaller holes can filler. i used fleetwood filler. came in a box and was much better than harricrete concrete filler in my opinion. as for wall preparation, just buy a couple masonry rubbing stones and rub out the loose sand on the walls. make sure to dust it off properly before priming.
if u dont trust the plastering you can use an acrylic sealer before u prime. i was told that poly v can be mixed with water and applied on walls as well. it acts as a sealer. i never tried it though
JF.K wrote:Just bumping this post for some info..
Can you advise the ratio of Poly V to water that I should use to prime the wall before applying the Primer Paint?
How long after applying the Poly V should I paint with the Primer?
Thanks.
rspann wrote:Install a trap. Either put it in the floor, or outside on the line if there is place.
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