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*KRONIK* wrote:Hey guys,
I looking for someone to do an application for me for WASA to run a 4” main.
They need an engineer to draw the plans to show the water lines, hydrants, slope an drainage etc.
I need that person to handle the entire process: drawings, applications, approvals etc.
If you all know anybody RELIABLE AND TRUSTWORTHY please send me the info.
Thanks
adnj wrote:Roofs have convective heat gain that is best handled with a dead space between the roof and the living area.pugboy wrote:Yes, the R factor is two or three times better with a 1.5” or more space than .5”
According to the sheet that the roll came with.
Air is a poor conductor so the larger the airspace the better.rspann wrote:The space created by doing it after, will actually make it work better. Cut some 1/2" PVC pipe along the length, and use that with some tek point screws to hold it up on the purlins. There is also one to spray on ,but I can't recall it now.
Roofs also have radiant heat gain that is best handled with a reflective barrier directly below the roof surface. The reflective layer should be between the roof and dead space -not the other way around.
The dead space can be created with a ceiling near the roof, an attic space, insulation (spray-on urethane, foam refrigeration panel or fiberglass blanket), or a combination and should include venting when possible.
I believe pugboy said that he added exhaust fans to move hot air out of his dead space which is one of the most cost effective methods.
worksux101 wrote:Any recommendations for a custom wooden front door?
Or somewhere with standard sizes that allows me to change the lock and install a smart lock
rspann wrote:[quote=" Kronik]
You could have just done an epoxy floor, guaranteed seamless[/quote]
I'm building a new building for my business and I'm going with the epoxy floor. I did some research and I agree with you on this. Getting the concrete perfectly level before epoxy is my main priority ,because I can't bear to see a wavy floor ,and it will be highlighted by the epoxy. Rory and others ,any ideas?[/quote]
pugboy wrote:Have you seen creteart stuff ?
Check their fb
SNIPER 3000 wrote:pugboy wrote:Have you seen creteart stuff ?
Check their fb
I am going to do this myself.
SNIPER 3000 wrote:rspann wrote:[quote=" Kronik]
You could have just done an epoxy floor, guaranteed seamless[/quote]
I'm building a new building for my business and I'm going with the epoxy floor. I did some research and I agree with you on this. Getting the concrete perfectly level before epoxy is my main priority ,because I can't bear to see a wavy floor ,and it will be highlighted by the epoxy. Rory and others ,any ideas?[/quote][/quote]
Spann, did you go with the epoxy. I have been looking into this a lot, got some quotes and seriously considering doing it my self. SCL has a brand, three parts system. Still open to other suggestions. Also looking for a concrete grinder to rent, any suggestions? Thanks.[/quote]
rspann wrote:SNIPER 3000 wrote:rspann wrote:[quote=" Kronik]
You could have just done an epoxy floor, guaranteed seamless[/quote]
I'm building a new building for my business and I'm going with the epoxy floor. I did some research and I agree with you on this. Getting the concrete perfectly level before epoxy is my main priority ,because I can't bear to see a wavy floor ,and it will be highlighted by the epoxy. Rory and others ,any ideas?[/quote][/quote]
Spann, did you go with the epoxy. I have been looking into this a lot, got some quotes and seriously considering doing it my self. SCL has a brand, three parts system. Still open to other suggestions. Also looking for a concrete grinder to rent, any suggestions? Thanks.[/quote][/quote][/quote]
The building is just recently completed and the ground floor was done with fibre mesh concrete and power floated. It is smooth like glass and sealed properly, water just evaporates from it and it's dry in minutes. It's 3600 sq ft to be done and the self leveling is very expensive so I'm bringing my own and it's costing way less. I don't want ypto go with the pair type because it's jacks and jack stands in use plus the type of work going on might cause digs on the surface. If you want to see it it will give you an idea what to do. The concrete grinding is very expensive unless you do it yourself ( if it's a small area) and leaves a porous surface . Power floating is $1 per sq ft.[/quote]
This was covered at length in this thread in 2018. You can do a search here in this thread for "per sq ft" or similar and get more info.Toyo1777 wrote:Provided you already have land what is the average cost to build a two story house abt 1500sqf per floor?
adnj wrote:Title laying expert?
That's all that's necessary to move on to the next tileman.
Lancernh wrote:Review of Tiling person so other tuners don’t get caught by false advertising
Really poor quality work to the point I am having to tile over tiles
And to top it off this guy took the $$ and left the job incomplete
Lancernh wrote:Lancernh wrote:Review of Tiling person so other tuners don’t get caught by false advertising
Really poor quality work to the point I am having to tile over tiles
And to top it off this guy took the $$ and left the job incomplete
Is there a forum to post something like this so that other people don’t fall victim?
There is little recourse in TnT for victims of poor workmanship by tradesmen. Posting negative comments online can potentially open yourself up to being sued by the perpetrator as recent court judgments has revealed.
After meticulous planning someone like this basically come in and undo everything ( the finishing touches )
Sheriff wrote:Guys I'm looking for this grinding disk, its for grinding concrete. Have anyone seen this locally and can advise on where.
Thanks.
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