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*KRONIK* wrote:I am going to look for the blue pipe tomorrow to see what the price is like.carluva wrote:Kronik,
Given what you have described, id recommend being a bit cautious. Since you have such a long run crossing properties and areas you do not own, you should consider using the mdpe or the blue water lines and sleeve them in the galvanized pipe at the driveway crossings. At the driveway crossings, as they are not yours, after laying the line, cover back with some excavated material. On this lay a bed of concrete tiles then backfill with red sand to the surface, compact and have a good base for reinstatement of the concrete driveways. That way your lines are safeguarded against any future work in that area that would result in excavation in that zone.
The blue line is also easier to repair if damaged... a compression fitting and that's it. Repairs can be done on the run without having to lock off water. If pvc pipe is damaged, water needs to be locked off and then solvent cement needed. More difficult repair.
If you insist on using pvc pipe, use schedule 40 for the run, nothing else.
Remember that galvanized pipe will rot from the inside once buried And at the threaded ends. This rot will make the line weaker and easier to crack with a blow. Consider sch 40 or even sch 80 pipe for the sleeves.
I know it sounds like overkill but its 500 ft of your line being run to a wasa connection so unless wasa is taking ownership of this line, they wont repair anything if its damaged. So better to protect your investment and do it right the first time spending a lil more on the front end.
I was planning to bury the steel pipes and replace the excavated area with cement as you mentioned.
The wasa guy said they only maintain the 1st 40 feet from the main. The rest is mine to take care of. So he told me to put at least 3 lock offs along the way incase i need to do any repairs.
Good idea with the sch 40 and sch 80 pipes.
ThanksMADMAN1 wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:I am going to look for the blue pipe tomorrow to see what the price is like.carluva wrote:Kronik,
Given what you have described, id recommend being a bit cautious. Since you have such a long run crossing properties and areas you do not own, you should consider using the mdpe or the blue water lines and sleeve them in the galvanized pipe at the driveway crossings. At the driveway crossings, as they are not yours, after laying the line, cover back with some excavated material. On this lay a bed of concrete tiles then backfill with red sand to the surface, compact and have a good base for reinstatement of the concrete driveways. That way your lines are safeguarded against any future work in that area that would result in excavation in that zone.
The blue line is also easier to repair if damaged... a compression fitting and that's it. Repairs can be done on the run without having to lock off water. If pvc pipe is damaged, water needs to be locked off and then solvent cement needed. More difficult repair.
If you insist on using pvc pipe, use schedule 40 for the run, nothing else.
Remember that galvanized pipe will rot from the inside once buried And at the threaded ends. This rot will make the line weaker and easier to crack with a blow. Consider sch 40 or even sch 80 pipe for the sleeves.
I know it sounds like overkill but its 500 ft of your line being run to a wasa connection so unless wasa is taking ownership of this line, they wont repair anything if its damaged. So better to protect your investment and do it right the first time spending a lil more on the front end.
I was planning to bury the steel pipes and replace the excavated area with cement as you mentioned.
The wasa guy said they only maintain the 1st 40 feet from the main. The rest is mine to take care of. So he told me to put at least 3 lock offs along the way incase i need to do any repairs.
Good idea with the sch 40 and sch 80 pipes.
The BLUE LINE is around $1200.00 a roll by Ramlagans Hardware Couva, 500ft long and they have fittings for it.
rexsmith wrote:what is the smallest foundation you can build for a 40ft by 32ft flat house?
Nexus wrote:Good morning,
Can any recommend a reputable private contractor or company to supply and install aluminum guttering? Also what is the price per square foot foot of that so?
Already have the roof and under celling, it's about 110 ft in total so of guttering but will have to include the downpipes and stuff.
Thanks
You can try using a butyl rubber instead of silicone rubber to seal your gutters. I used the same thing to seal shingles and gutters. It's messy but it is a lot stickier than silicone. It's about the same chemistry that is used to waterproof foundation blocks.pugboy wrote:Whatever you do, hire somebody who can roll out complete lengths.
Don’t buy the short lengths and join them up to make up length.
They never seal well no matter how much silicone is used and will leak at joints.Nexus wrote:Good morning,
Can any recommend a reputable private contractor or company to supply and install aluminum guttering? Also what is the price per square foot foot of that so?
Already have the roof and under celling, it's about 110 ft in total so of guttering but will have to include the downpipes and stuff.
Thanks
I think the average is done per square feet depending on type of house my brother did 1 it was $500 per square foottelfer wrote:Tuners... is there a calculation that contractors use to cost out building a home
daron wrote:I think the average is done per square feet depending on type of house my brother did 1 it was $500 per square foottelfer wrote:Tuners... is there a calculation that contractors use to cost out building a home
ProtonPowder wrote:daron wrote:I think the average is done per square feet depending on type of house my brother did 1 it was $500 per square foottelfer wrote:Tuners... is there a calculation that contractors use to cost out building a home
That is honestly too low. Contractors call that to get the wuk and then come demanding more later down the line.
I have seen estimates of 600/sf in 2016 and about 650-700/sf in 2018 for a basic flat concrete house. And this is from the quantity surveyor the bank/ttmf would probably send when is time to get insurance on the house.
originalbling wrote:Does anywhere sell steel/security half doors (the ones cut in half horizontally) ?
Only finding the normal pitch pine ones
Sounds like they found a way to beat the systemshake d livin wake d dead wrote:Dont know where else to post this...but a couple weeks ago a friend went to ttec to make a damaged appliance report....ttec indicated that as long as you dont have a inspector's certificate(no older than 5 years)...they (ttec) cannot be held accountable for damaged appliances due to power surges etc....so get your electrician to do the necessary...
Just a heads up...I didnt know this as well
telfer wrote:originalbling wrote:Does anywhere sell steel/security half doors (the ones cut in half horizontally) ?
Only finding the normal pitch pine ones
I think I saw those at Abel
Rory Phoulorie wrote:rspann wrote:[quote=" Kronik]
You could have just done an epoxy floor, guaranteed seamless[/quote]
I'm building a new building for my business and I'm going with the epoxy floor. I did some research and I agree with you on this. Getting the concrete perfectly level before epoxy is my main priority ,because I can't bear to see a wavy floor ,and it will be highlighted by the epoxy. Rory and others ,any ideas?[/quote][/quote]
Call SCL Trinidad Limited (675-5555) and see if they have a self levelling screed that could be applied over the floor with proper bond on which you could apply the epoxy coating.[/quote]
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