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*KRONIK* wrote:Yes...i wont send anybody to roopnarine to do the actual project
But if someone likes the cabinets and can do their own layout and design plan based on the prefab cabinets and is able to install it themselves or have someone reliable to do the install...then by all means...buy the cabinets but dont depend on the "free installation" as it comes with a big catch.
Also...it was only after i found out from various persons that this isnt the 1st time this has happened to a customer...it happens more frequent than anyone would like to know.
And yes...it took a little over 4 months to have it completed.
On a side note...i taking wuk to assemble and install eh!
TriniVdub wrote:Still a work in progress...went through a local lady who did the work for me based on the design idea i had, however although she did a great job i would never recommend her to anybody. Its been close to 9 months now and she has yet to finish.
Would be installing a backsplash, just not sure what design to go with yet.
pugboy wrote:did you remember to seal the bases thoroughly with expanding spray foam to avoid problems with any insects/cockroach getting under cabinets down the road ?
York wrote:TriniVdub wrote:Still a work in progress...went through a local lady who did the work for me based on the design idea i had, however although she did a great job i would never recommend her to anybody. Its been close to 9 months now and she has yet to finish.
Would be installing a backsplash, just not sure what design to go with yet.
same question as above...material and cost? the countertop looks like solid surface?
those dark cupboards, if not done with properly dried wood can warp and contract causing visible light wood in the joinings. dark stains need more maintenance than lighter ones.
TriniVdub wrote:pugboy wrote:did you remember to seal the bases thoroughly with expanding spray foam to avoid problems with any insects/cockroach getting under cabinets down the road ?
Ah bloody hell....now you getting me concerned as i do not believe that was done #facepalm
KIA Motors wrote:York wrote:TriniVdub wrote:Still a work in progress...went through a local lady who did the work for me based on the design idea i had, however although she did a great job i would never recommend her to anybody. Its been close to 9 months now and she has yet to finish.
Would be installing a backsplash, just not sure what design to go with yet.
same question as above...material and cost? the countertop looks like solid surface?
those dark cupboards, if not done with properly dried wood can warp and contract causing visible light wood in the joinings. dark stains need more maintenance than lighter ones.
My kitchen is done in the same design with teak and stained black with quartz top. The person who did the work right know has to redo everything because of the creases; the wood expanded and the creases are cream/brown. I am beyond disappointed. I should have spent the extra $30k and imported the cupboards as a was advised from so many. To anyone on here who can afford it; don't do local. I wish I could support the local ppl doing this work but it's not only me; my brother who used a different joiner and cedar has the same issue.
York wrote:GORILLA GLUE!! but it's a lil expensive.
BRZ wrote:ALOT of wood workers in Trinidad are using wood that has not cured and dried out properly, so when they build ANYTHING for you, within a few months you will start to get cracks and long creases developing.
What needs to happen is wood workers need to start giving a year warranty on their supplied items so that if/when they do crack they will repair them, especially as these items are coming at premium costs.
MD Marketers wrote:BRZ wrote:ALOT of wood workers in Trinidad are using wood that has not cured and dried out properly, so when they build ANYTHING for you, within a few months you will start to get cracks and long creases developing.
What needs to happen is wood workers need to start giving a year warranty on their supplied items so that if/when they do crack they will repair them, especially as these items are coming at premium costs.
This assumes that they quoted you for both material & labour.
If it is agreed that the customer is supplying the material then the contractor cannot be held responsible for sub standard materials.
Did the contractor charge you additional for procurement services?
Or
Did he offer/agree to procure the materials for free?
If there is no legal tender binding the contractor to the quality of materials then he is not responsible for sub standard materials, regardless of any guarantees he would have made.
If there is a flaw with application of the materials and not the actual material itself then the contractor is responsible.
To avoid such controversies one can either give the contractor the material supply aspect of the contract or pay them an additional fee to secure the quality of materials purchased. The process of procurement & logistics carry an addional cost (both time & money) and any contractor would be justified in placing addional value to the material cost if given the material supply contract. This is not about trying to make money off your head for free. You are paying for the peace of mind of a guarantee that is admissible in court, even if the contractor never specified a guarantee.
I can't tell you how many times the customer has provided me with sub standard materials leaving me with a choice to either send home a dozen workers until the proper materials are sourced or simply work what they give me & hope it doesn't compromise the job.
These days I find myself sending back poor materials and billing the customer for workers down time, because the alternative normally has me fixing other people's mistakes out of my own pocket.
Don't blame the contractor if you cheap out on the materials.
KIA Motors wrote:MD Marketers wrote:BRZ wrote:ALOT of wood workers in Trinidad are using wood that has not cured and dried out properly, so when they build ANYTHING for you, within a few months you will start to get cracks and long creases developing.
What needs to happen is wood workers need to start giving a year warranty on their supplied items so that if/when they do crack they will repair them, especially as these items are coming at premium costs.
This assumes that they quoted you for both material & labour.
If it is agreed that the customer is supplying the material then the contractor cannot be held responsible for sub standard materials.
Did the contractor charge you additional for procurement services?
Or
Did he offer/agree to procure the materials for free?
If there is no legal tender binding the contractor to the quality of materials then he is not responsible for sub standard materials, regardless of any guarantees he would have made.
If there is a flaw with application of the materials and not the actual material itself then the contractor is responsible.
To avoid such controversies one can either give the contractor the material supply aspect of the contract or pay them an additional fee to secure the quality of materials purchased. The process of procurement & logistics carry an addional cost (both time & money) and any contractor would be justified in placing addional value to the material cost if given the material supply contract. This is not about trying to make money off your head for free. You are paying for the peace of mind of a guarantee that is admissible in court, even if the contractor never specified a guarantee.
I can't tell you how many times the customer has provided me with sub standard materials leaving me with a choice to either send home a dozen workers until the proper materials are sourced or simply work what they give me & hope it doesn't compromise the job.
These days I find myself sending back poor materials and billing the customer for workers down time, because the alternative normally has me fixing other people's mistakes out of my own pocket.
Don't blame the contractor if you cheap out on the materials.
Actually I wanted to supply my own material so that I am sure it's good material the woodworker is working with... Everyone who came to look at the job did not want to do this. None of them wanted to work with a customers material. I'm guessing because of the same problem they had before. So the person who i did pick to do the work supplied material and labor and he is an experienced guy... I asked around about him; went and saw work he did etc but was still disappointed. I guess some
Things just don't work out.
TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.
TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.
*KRONIK* wrote:TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.
Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time
Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.
My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.
York wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.
Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time
Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.
My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.
recirculating ones help if it has the charcoal which adsorbs the fumes. needs to be changed and if not changed then one may think it's a waste of time.
you can go thru the ceiling and across thru the nearest external wall above the ceiling (or straight up thru the roof with a chinese hat!)
MD Marketers wrote:York wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.
Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time
Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.
My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.
recirculating ones help if it has the charcoal which adsorbs the fumes. needs to be changed and if not changed then one may think it's a waste of time.
you can go thru the ceiling and across thru the nearest external wall above the ceiling (or straight up thru the roof with a chinese hat!)
Only if it's a flat house.
If there is a beam he cannot run that size vent through the beam without weakening the structure.
Verticall pipes in the center of a house really doesn't look that great but it's the most economical approach to the problem.
TriniAutoMart wrote:MD Marketers wrote:York wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.
Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time
Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.
My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.
recirculating ones help if it has the charcoal which adsorbs the fumes. needs to be changed and if not changed then one may think it's a waste of time.
you can go thru the ceiling and across thru the nearest external wall above the ceiling (or straight up thru the roof with a chinese hat!)
Only if it's a flat house.
If there is a beam he cannot run that size vent through the beam without weakening the structure.
Verticall pipes in the center of a house really doesn't look that great but it's the most economical approach to the problem.
I should have mentioned that it is a flat house.
I was thinking of going through the ceiling and venting out through an external wall. My only concern was the pipe would show coming back out of the ceiling to vent at the external wall. I'm really trying to avoid cutting the roof, so I may have to do the above even though I don't like how it would look.
If the charcoal is as effective I could use it but from the comments above it doesn't look that way.
TriniAutoMart wrote:MD Marketers wrote:York wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.
Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time
Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.
My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.
recirculating ones help if it has the charcoal which adsorbs the fumes. needs to be changed and if not changed then one may think it's a waste of time.
you can go thru the ceiling and across thru the nearest external wall above the ceiling (or straight up thru the roof with a chinese hat!)
Only if it's a flat house.
If there is a beam he cannot run that size vent through the beam without weakening the structure.
Verticall pipes in the center of a house really doesn't look that great but it's the most economical approach to the problem.
I should have mentioned that it is a flat house.
I was thinking of going through the ceiling and venting out through an external wall. My only concern was the pipe would show coming back out of the ceiling to vent at the external wall. I'm really trying to avoid cutting the roof, so I may have to do the above even though I don't like how it would look.
If the charcoal is as effective I could use it but from the comments above it doesn't look that way.
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