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York
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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby York » September 7th, 2015, 10:55 am

*KRONIK* wrote:Yes...i wont send anybody to roopnarine to do the actual project
But if someone likes the cabinets and can do their own layout and design plan based on the prefab cabinets and is able to install it themselves or have someone reliable to do the install...then by all means...buy the cabinets but dont depend on the "free installation" as it comes with a big catch.

Also...it was only after i found out from various persons that this isnt the 1st time this has happened to a customer...it happens more frequent than anyone would like to know.

And yes...it took a little over 4 months to have it completed.

On a side note...i taking wuk to assemble and install eh!

what did it cost u in the end? cupboards and countertop separate. what was the material of the cupboards?

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby York » September 7th, 2015, 10:57 am

TriniVdub wrote:Still a work in progress...went through a local lady who did the work for me based on the design idea i had, however although she did a great job i would never recommend her to anybody. Its been close to 9 months now and she has yet to finish.

Would be installing a backsplash, just not sure what design to go with yet.

Image

Image

same question as above...material and cost? the countertop looks like solid surface?

those dark cupboards, if not done with properly dried wood can warp and contract causing visible light wood in the joinings. dark stains need more maintenance than lighter ones.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby TriniVdub » September 7th, 2015, 10:44 pm

^^^Yes i have noticed at the joinings the wood appears a lot lighter, one of the many problems i had with the installer. Also because of the direct sunlight from the window I would need to get blinds so would be checking CW Interiors for something that can help reduce the exposure, as i have a feeling it can eventually fade the stain.

The cupboards are mahogany, with a quartz countertop...everything came up to around 45k

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby pugboy » September 8th, 2015, 6:46 am

did you remember to seal the bases thoroughly with expanding spray foam to avoid problems with any insects/cockroach getting under cabinets down the road ?

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby smokeyjoe » September 8th, 2015, 7:32 am

Good Morning
I am a contractor and the name of my company is JBan Construction Solutions. If you are interested in any of my services which is listed below please contact me on 3955310 Jerome

Plumbing
Building from foundation to finish
Roofing
Wood work
Gypsum
Tiling
Welding

regards
Jerome Labban

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby TriniVdub » September 8th, 2015, 8:18 am

pugboy wrote:did you remember to seal the bases thoroughly with expanding spray foam to avoid problems with any insects/cockroach getting under cabinets down the road ?



Ah bloody hell....now you getting me concerned as i do not believe that was done :shock: #facepalm

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby York » September 8th, 2015, 11:05 am

can anything stop those creepy crawlies?

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby KIA Motors » March 1st, 2016, 10:53 am

York wrote:
TriniVdub wrote:Still a work in progress...went through a local lady who did the work for me based on the design idea i had, however although she did a great job i would never recommend her to anybody. Its been close to 9 months now and she has yet to finish.

Would be installing a backsplash, just not sure what design to go with yet.

Image

Image

same question as above...material and cost? the countertop looks like solid surface?

those dark cupboards, if not done with properly dried wood can warp and contract causing visible light wood in the joinings. dark stains need more maintenance than lighter ones.


My kitchen is done in the same design with teak and stained black with quartz top. The person who did the work right know has to redo everything because of the creases; the wood expanded and the creases are cream/brown. I am beyond disappointed. I should have spent the extra $30k and imported the cupboards as a was advised from so many. To anyone on here who can afford it; don't do local. I wish I could support the local ppl doing this work but it's not only me; my brother who used a different joiner and cedar has the same issue.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby amarmoonasar21 » March 2nd, 2016, 7:11 am

I have cupboards for over 8 years now in my kitchen most joiners nowadays using sheit glue all my cupboards has epoxy glue what tends to let go joining in panels is if the wood was not dried properly thats a major problem

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby MD Marketers » March 2nd, 2016, 7:19 am

TriniVdub wrote:
pugboy wrote:did you remember to seal the bases thoroughly with expanding spray foam to avoid problems with any insects/cockroach getting under cabinets down the road ?



Ah bloody hell....now you getting me concerned as i do not believe that was done :shock: #facepalm

Those lil buggers will find it's way there eventually. It's an uphill battle really.
Best method that works to keep them away is general cleanliness. They are attracted to the filth and to the food stuff.
In other words get a spouse with OCD and problem solved.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby MD Marketers » March 2nd, 2016, 7:30 am

KIA Motors wrote:
York wrote:
TriniVdub wrote:Still a work in progress...went through a local lady who did the work for me based on the design idea i had, however although she did a great job i would never recommend her to anybody. Its been close to 9 months now and she has yet to finish.

Would be installing a backsplash, just not sure what design to go with yet.

Image

Image

same question as above...material and cost? the countertop looks like solid surface?

those dark cupboards, if not done with properly dried wood can warp and contract causing visible light wood in the joinings. dark stains need more maintenance than lighter ones.


My kitchen is done in the same design with teak and stained black with quartz top. The person who did the work right know has to redo everything because of the creases; the wood expanded and the creases are cream/brown. I am beyond disappointed. I should have spent the extra $30k and imported the cupboards as a was advised from so many. To anyone on here who can afford it; don't do local. I wish I could support the local ppl doing this work but it's not only me; my brother who used a different joiner and cedar has the same issue.

Narine & the guys from my wood work team use Guerilla glue, spray it with water & then join. After that it might be easier to break the cupboard itself than the glued part.
It eats at my very soul (if I had one) to hear people lose faith in our local talent, but yes I agree our culture does not attract nor retain the highly knowledgeable ones.
Another point to note is that construction is based on knowledge/experience rather than talent.
Almost anyone can become a good contractor, given enough time & knowledge in the field.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby York » March 2nd, 2016, 10:49 am

GORILLA GLUE!! but it's a lil expensive.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby MD Marketers » March 2nd, 2016, 11:04 am

York wrote:GORILLA GLUE!! but it's a lil expensive.

It's really not that expensive when you consider the long term effects.
It's always a battle of price vs quality.
The problem is that it shouldn't be the contractor's decision to make.
Customers expect their contractors to be psychic.
If you truly want the best value for your money then tell the contractor your budget if you already gave him the job.
Experience/qualification will only take you so far, without knowing what your customer wants you can never fully satisfy them.
Except this one lady I met from Las Lomas, turns out she needed a good plumber.
No experience or qualifications needed, just walk with the right tools.
:D

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby BRZ » March 2nd, 2016, 11:26 am

ALOT of wood workers in Trinidad are using wood that has not cured and dried out properly, so when they build ANYTHING for you, within a few months you will start to get cracks and long creases developing.
What needs to happen is wood workers need to start giving a year warranty on their supplied items so that if/when they do crack they will repair them, especially as these items are coming at premium costs.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby MD Marketers » March 2nd, 2016, 11:55 am

BRZ wrote:ALOT of wood workers in Trinidad are using wood that has not cured and dried out properly, so when they build ANYTHING for you, within a few months you will start to get cracks and long creases developing.
What needs to happen is wood workers need to start giving a year warranty on their supplied items so that if/when they do crack they will repair them, especially as these items are coming at premium costs.

This assumes that they quoted you for both material & labour.
If it is agreed that the customer is supplying the material then the contractor cannot be held responsible for sub standard materials.
Did the contractor charge you additional for procurement services?
Or
Did he offer/agree to procure the materials for free?

If there is no legal tender binding the contractor to the quality of materials then he is not responsible for sub standard materials, regardless of any guarantees he would have made.

If there is a flaw with application of the materials and not the actual material itself then the contractor is responsible.

To avoid such controversies one can either give the contractor the material supply aspect of the contract or pay them an additional fee to secure the quality of materials purchased. The process of procurement & logistics carry an addional cost (both time & money) and any contractor would be justified in placing addional value to the material cost if given the material supply contract. This is not about trying to make money off your head for free. You are paying for the peace of mind of a guarantee that is admissible in court, even if the contractor never specified a guarantee.

I can't tell you how many times the customer has provided me with sub standard materials leaving me with a choice to either send home a dozen workers until the proper materials are sourced or simply work what they give me & hope it doesn't compromise the job.

These days I find myself sending back poor materials and billing the customer for workers down time, because the alternative normally has me fixing other people's mistakes out of my own pocket.

Don't blame the contractor if you cheap out on the materials.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby KIA Motors » March 2nd, 2016, 12:17 pm

MD Marketers wrote:
BRZ wrote:ALOT of wood workers in Trinidad are using wood that has not cured and dried out properly, so when they build ANYTHING for you, within a few months you will start to get cracks and long creases developing.
What needs to happen is wood workers need to start giving a year warranty on their supplied items so that if/when they do crack they will repair them, especially as these items are coming at premium costs.

This assumes that they quoted you for both material & labour.
If it is agreed that the customer is supplying the material then the contractor cannot be held responsible for sub standard materials.
Did the contractor charge you additional for procurement services?
Or
Did he offer/agree to procure the materials for free?

If there is no legal tender binding the contractor to the quality of materials then he is not responsible for sub standard materials, regardless of any guarantees he would have made.

If there is a flaw with application of the materials and not the actual material itself then the contractor is responsible.

To avoid such controversies one can either give the contractor the material supply aspect of the contract or pay them an additional fee to secure the quality of materials purchased. The process of procurement & logistics carry an addional cost (both time & money) and any contractor would be justified in placing addional value to the material cost if given the material supply contract. This is not about trying to make money off your head for free. You are paying for the peace of mind of a guarantee that is admissible in court, even if the contractor never specified a guarantee.

I can't tell you how many times the customer has provided me with sub standard materials leaving me with a choice to either send home a dozen workers until the proper materials are sourced or simply work what they give me & hope it doesn't compromise the job.

These days I find myself sending back poor materials and billing the customer for workers down time, because the alternative normally has me fixing other people's mistakes out of my own pocket.

Don't blame the contractor if you cheap out on the materials.



Actually I wanted to supply my own material so that I am sure it's good material the woodworker is working with... Everyone who came to look at the job did not want to do this. None of them wanted to work with a customers material. I'm guessing because of the same problem they had before. So the person who i did pick to do the work supplied material and labor and he is an experienced guy... I asked around about him; went and saw work he did etc but was still disappointed. I guess some
Things just don't work out.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby MD Marketers » March 2nd, 2016, 12:19 pm

KIA Motors wrote:
MD Marketers wrote:
BRZ wrote:ALOT of wood workers in Trinidad are using wood that has not cured and dried out properly, so when they build ANYTHING for you, within a few months you will start to get cracks and long creases developing.
What needs to happen is wood workers need to start giving a year warranty on their supplied items so that if/when they do crack they will repair them, especially as these items are coming at premium costs.

This assumes that they quoted you for both material & labour.
If it is agreed that the customer is supplying the material then the contractor cannot be held responsible for sub standard materials.
Did the contractor charge you additional for procurement services?
Or
Did he offer/agree to procure the materials for free?

If there is no legal tender binding the contractor to the quality of materials then he is not responsible for sub standard materials, regardless of any guarantees he would have made.

If there is a flaw with application of the materials and not the actual material itself then the contractor is responsible.

To avoid such controversies one can either give the contractor the material supply aspect of the contract or pay them an additional fee to secure the quality of materials purchased. The process of procurement & logistics carry an addional cost (both time & money) and any contractor would be justified in placing addional value to the material cost if given the material supply contract. This is not about trying to make money off your head for free. You are paying for the peace of mind of a guarantee that is admissible in court, even if the contractor never specified a guarantee.

I can't tell you how many times the customer has provided me with sub standard materials leaving me with a choice to either send home a dozen workers until the proper materials are sourced or simply work what they give me & hope it doesn't compromise the job.

These days I find myself sending back poor materials and billing the customer for workers down time, because the alternative normally has me fixing other people's mistakes out of my own pocket.

Don't blame the contractor if you cheap out on the materials.



Actually I wanted to supply my own material so that I am sure it's good material the woodworker is working with... Everyone who came to look at the job did not want to do this. None of them wanted to work with a customers material. I'm guessing because of the same problem they had before. So the person who i did pick to do the work supplied material and labor and he is an experienced guy... I asked around about him; went and saw work he did etc but was still disappointed. I guess some
Things just don't work out.

You have a legit case. He repairing it for free I hope.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby TriniAutoMart » March 2nd, 2016, 4:32 pm

House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby *KRONIK* » March 2nd, 2016, 6:18 pm

TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.


Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time

Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.

My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby pugboy » March 2nd, 2016, 6:20 pm

Gorilla glue tends to crumble when it gets old.

Check out bora systems under hoods
Very impressive and supposedly easy to clean

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby MD Marketers » March 2nd, 2016, 6:32 pm

TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.

Fen Mohammed stores had the same problem with a fully functioning display kitchen.
I did the ventilation, drainage & electricals underground by jack hammering a trench, placing the pipes and sealing it back.
40' away.
Nothing was visible.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby coolfiger » March 2nd, 2016, 8:28 pm

Maharaj wood working is the best i came across. A lot of local interior designers use him . I did a full oak modern two tone with solid surface and granite . Modern with soft close hinges and caddies

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby *KRONIK* » March 2nd, 2016, 8:34 pm

^^^
Throw up some pics nah!

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby X2 » March 3rd, 2016, 2:48 am

Wood product in Trinidad is often not cured/dried properly. Many of the suppliers get lumber from mills that don't have the proper ovens and equipment to dry the wood (like many did decades ago... thanks to our all knowing government that destroyed the industries).

Any decent cabinet builder can tell you about improperly dried wood... if they can't... they are not in the right business. The problem with solid wood sourced from TnT is that much of it is stolen/illegally acquired and rushed to dry and sell. This is a particular problem with teak in Trinidad (both the drying and the poaching).

MDF core kitchens do away with all the fears of shrinking joints in solid wood, at a lower cost most times... just build the base of the cabinets out of pine or other water resistant materials (concrete, metal leg, mahogany, etc...

Maraj woodworkers are one of the oldest and best woodworking facilities around... I find their designs a bit dated... which will have you reaching for a designer to help with the aesthetic... pushing up your out of pocket expenses.

Problem is that PLENTY people in the country fancy themselves 'designers' with no qualifications and little real experience... and every contractor thinks they are all you need for the job and often take advantage of people's ignorance of the industry. People charging twice and three times the industry rates for labour... gouging people for sourcing services, etc.... So watch out... but then again... even customers in this market tend to be sleazy like anyone else. Taking designs from one company (intellectual property) and carrying to another contractor or supplier without paying for services rendered, feeling they know more than the supplier/designer/contractor... making the process more costly and difficult, yet not willing to pay for the additional works, etc...

It's a harsh world out there... and as the USD becomes more scarce... expect imported kitchens to be a harder choice to make... but be careful... many suppliers out there are selling imported crap, low quality, flashy aesthetics and high prices. Buyer beware... research what you can and ask questions to the potential suppliers. Honest companies will be glaringly obvious as the knowledge is free... but the wisdom of getting burnt is expensive.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby pugboy » March 3rd, 2016, 8:52 am

Young sing cabinets are pretty decent and they dry their wood
It is much safer to use their cabinets which are made of mdf
Except for the front , which u can choose the type of wood.

Unless u looking for a pure natural wood finish
It is safer and cheaper to use the plain pine and have a good finish of your choice
Put on, there are many nice finishes available now.

Kitchens imho are often better without natural wood finish

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby York » March 3rd, 2016, 9:04 am

*KRONIK* wrote:
TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.


Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time

Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.

My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.

recirculating ones help if it has the charcoal which adsorbs the fumes. needs to be changed and if not changed then one may think it's a waste of time.

you can go thru the ceiling and across thru the nearest external wall above the ceiling (or straight up thru the roof with a chinese hat!)

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby MD Marketers » March 3rd, 2016, 10:40 am

York wrote:
*KRONIK* wrote:
TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.


Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time

Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.

My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.

recirculating ones help if it has the charcoal which adsorbs the fumes. needs to be changed and if not changed then one may think it's a waste of time.

you can go thru the ceiling and across thru the nearest external wall above the ceiling (or straight up thru the roof with a chinese hat!)

Only if it's a flat house.
If there is a beam he cannot run that size vent through the beam without weakening the structure.
Verticall pipes in the center of a house really doesn't look that great but it's the most economical approach to the problem.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby TriniAutoMart » March 3rd, 2016, 10:58 am

MD Marketers wrote:
York wrote:
*KRONIK* wrote:
TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.


Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time

Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.

My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.

recirculating ones help if it has the charcoal which adsorbs the fumes. needs to be changed and if not changed then one may think it's a waste of time.

you can go thru the ceiling and across thru the nearest external wall above the ceiling (or straight up thru the roof with a chinese hat!)

Only if it's a flat house.
If there is a beam he cannot run that size vent through the beam without weakening the structure.
Verticall pipes in the center of a house really doesn't look that great but it's the most economical approach to the problem.

I should have mentioned that it is a flat house.
I was thinking of going through the ceiling and venting out through an external wall. My only concern was the pipe would show coming back out of the ceiling to vent at the external wall. I'm really trying to avoid cutting the roof, so I may have to do the above even though I don't like how it would look.
If the charcoal is as effective I could use it but from the comments above it doesn't look that way.

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby *KRONIK* » March 3rd, 2016, 11:14 am

TriniAutoMart wrote:
MD Marketers wrote:
York wrote:
*KRONIK* wrote:
TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.


Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time

Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.

My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.

recirculating ones help if it has the charcoal which adsorbs the fumes. needs to be changed and if not changed then one may think it's a waste of time.

you can go thru the ceiling and across thru the nearest external wall above the ceiling (or straight up thru the roof with a chinese hat!)

Only if it's a flat house.
If there is a beam he cannot run that size vent through the beam without weakening the structure.
Verticall pipes in the center of a house really doesn't look that great but it's the most economical approach to the problem.

I should have mentioned that it is a flat house.
I was thinking of going through the ceiling and venting out through an external wall. My only concern was the pipe would show coming back out of the ceiling to vent at the external wall. I'm really trying to avoid cutting the roof, so I may have to do the above even though I don't like how it would look.
If the charcoal is as effective I could use it but from the comments above it doesn't look that way.


Its OK at best

But if u going that route
Buy spare filters and chang them regularly

I couldnt have done any of the venting options as my stove is against a partition wall

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Re: Kitchen cupboards etc

Postby MD Marketers » March 3rd, 2016, 11:23 am

TriniAutoMart wrote:
MD Marketers wrote:
York wrote:
*KRONIK* wrote:
TriniAutoMart wrote:House came with kitchen pre-built and stove space was set against an inside wall.
I want to vent out the stove fumes. What would you guys recommend?
Should I run the vent along the ceiling and vent through an outside wall or should I vent straight up through the roof?
There's also the option where I use those coal filters in the range hood and just not vent out at all.


Recirculating range hoods are a waste of time

Wish i had the option of installing a vented model. I does have to open up the windows by me to air out the house...especially if we curry or fry stuff.

My suggestion: if u can...install a vented model.

recirculating ones help if it has the charcoal which adsorbs the fumes. needs to be changed and if not changed then one may think it's a waste of time.

you can go thru the ceiling and across thru the nearest external wall above the ceiling (or straight up thru the roof with a chinese hat!)

Only if it's a flat house.
If there is a beam he cannot run that size vent through the beam without weakening the structure.
Verticall pipes in the center of a house really doesn't look that great but it's the most economical approach to the problem.

I should have mentioned that it is a flat house.
I was thinking of going through the ceiling and venting out through an external wall. My only concern was the pipe would show coming back out of the ceiling to vent at the external wall. I'm really trying to avoid cutting the roof, so I may have to do the above even though I don't like how it would look.
If the charcoal is as effective I could use it but from the comments above it doesn't look that way.

Yes you will eventually reach a ring beam.
Hopefully you can go above it into a gable or some sort of space between the ring beam and the roof rather than go back below the ceiling again.
Also it's not advisable to cut a hole in your roof to stick a pipe in it from the the middle of your house. Your just begging for trouble during the rainy season.
Use the underground vent pipe if you want to hide everything and still have a hassle free ventilation system.

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