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General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

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General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby wagon r » February 13th, 2008, 12:00 pm

maintenance on these engines are depenent on your driving condtions, but usually:
every 5000Kms is good for an oil change, if you have wear at your turbo shaft, change oil every 3000Kms
also , doh expect the see the oil in your dipstick remaining clear at all.. this is typical of diesel engines
I recommend the castrol Viscus max. good results so far.


if youre in an excessively dusty atmosphere (jobsites etc) your filter should be checked every 3000kms

there's a tap off at the bottom of your fuel filter for the water separator, this should be drained monthly ( let the water run out till u see fuel coming out )
the fuel filter itself should ideally be changed with oil filter , but if no particles are observed when the water is drained, keeep it till you see dregs coming out.

glow plugs should be removed & checked if you get difficulty in starting on mornings

Remember diesel engines have much more compression than gas engines so diesel oil takes a lot more stress.. so if you notice burning off, change the oil at a shorter interval.

These mitsus have a history of breaking rocker arms so if you notice something like a tappet knock , please have it checked & make sure the mech doesnt over tighten it ..

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Postby wagon r » February 13th, 2008, 1:18 pm

"Gasoline engines can be designed so that even if the timing belt breaks, the valves will not contact the pistons, regardless of what position the camshaft stops in (a so-called non-interference engine). Not all gasoline engines are non-interference ... but they can be. This is impossible with a diesel engine because of the high compression ratio, and the small space between the piston and head in order to achieve that compression ratio. All 4-stroke diesel engines are therefore interference designs."

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Postby wagon r » February 13th, 2008, 1:30 pm

The strainer in the fuel pump gets clogged up after a while (Ford Ranger). This causes the engine to not go beyond a certain RPM (3700 in mine) and belts out real blue smoke.

Clean this, and u will restore your power.

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Postby aR&D » March 21st, 2008, 9:12 am

Wagon'

Clarify this please:


there's a tap off at the bottom of your fuel filter for the water separator, this should be drained monthly ( let the water run out till u see fuel coming out )
the fuel filter itself should ideally be changed with oil filter , but if no particles are observed when the water is drained, keeep it till you see dregs coming out.



when the tap is opened will the liquids flow out on a steady stream or in quick drips?. If in a steady stream then you would need to hurry and close the tap off when fuel starts flowing out ...... i'm asking here.

thanks

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Postby bleedingfreak » March 21st, 2008, 12:30 pm

OKay... you put a small container under the valve and open it... slightly... you can control the pressure coming out ... When the fuel starts coming out then lock it closed..

But seriously.. a few drops of diesel is nothing. What's the most you can do? The most you can do is drain the fuel filter :) that's what? $0.75 diesel?

If yo DO happen to drain the fuel filter, by accident, remember to prime it back with the hand primer at the top of the filter assembly.

In fact, this primer pump can also be used to push the water / dregs, etc out of the water trap.

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Postby rollbar » May 7th, 2008, 11:06 am

I am just about 10000km on my bt 50
all i have done was change oil once and tighten suspension
what else shoudl be done here?
should i try draining the fuel filter?

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Postby 323_wagon_dude » May 7th, 2008, 1:58 pm

Purging the fuel filter periodically is good preventative maintenance.

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Postby wagon r » May 9th, 2008, 9:36 am

coutesy 323 hilux dude...

How to change the fuel fiter in a Hilux 2005 - up.

I put together a simple how to thread showing how I change my fuel filter (2007 Toyota Hilux). This should be the same for both the 2.5 and 3.0 D4D engines.

This is what my filter setup looks like:
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The tools required:
Image
Yeah, thats a bottle cap with a makeshift hole in it.

Firstly, Drain the filter via the butterfly valve:
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Insert one end of the hose into the cut bottle cap on the bottle and push the other end of the hose onto the butter fly valve:
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Pump the primer pump on top a few times.
Heres what came out of my filter:
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Disconnect the two wire harnesses and slacken the ring holding the primer pump to the fuel canister
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Lift the primer pump assembly up
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Remove the filter cartridge from primper pump
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This is what inside the canister will look like (the amount of gunk will vary depending on fuel quality)
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The following is only required if you're going to clean inside the canister...

Remove the canister from the vehicle by sliding it up
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After I drained the diesel this is what we get in our fuel...
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Hose out the inside of the canister and let dry properly. I left it in the sun for about 15 minutes.
I forgot to take a pic of inside the canister after it was clean and dry.

Re-install the canister by inserting it into the bracket as shown and then sliding it down
Image

Continue here if you didnt have to remove the canister

This is the new filter still in the box
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And the contents...
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Change the rubber ring on the canister with the new one with the filter..
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Remove the new filter from the packaging and admire...
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After admiring, insert the filter cartridge into the canister
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Ensure the filter cartridge is seated properly
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Re-install the primer pump on top of the canister and tighten the ring to secure the primer pump to the canister
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Bleed the fuel filter by repeatedly pressing in the top of the pump until it gets hard to press.
Image

Start the hilux and you're done.

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Replacement Air Filters

Postby rollbar » May 13th, 2008, 1:08 pm

On the topic of filters....
anybody tried sourcing and using replacement washable filters for their Turbo Diesel vans?

like this

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product ... =33-2106-1

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Postby sweeks » June 9th, 2008, 8:52 am

Rollbar the K&N comes with a good warranty and with good maintenance you can get many many years out of them.

I know of at least two SR5 owners running K&N filters. There are the K&N cleaning kit and oil available for these.

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 6th, 2008, 5:16 am

excellent info on changing the fuel filter.. thanks 4 putting it up!

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 13th, 2008, 8:04 pm

How to change a Fuel Filter for the Mazda B2500.

Remove the two 12 bolts that hold it in place.. (the horizontal ones)

Image

Disconnect the sensor line..

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The bleed valve for the filter is located directly beneath it.. Bleed out all the fluid inside before removing.. This filter was so dirty that nothing was coming out of the valve! I had to remove the entire valve to get out the water / sediment / fuel..

To remove the filter simply twist the filter off the primer pump assembly and them twist off the bottom sensor..

Image

This is what came out the old filter! :shock: yuck!

Image

Image

Replacement filter from SSL. Place some diesel on the O-rings before installing.

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Reinstall new filter and pump the primer pump until it gets hard (i.e. filter is full of diesel)..

Image

pat yourself on the back for a job well done.. :wink:

(after you have test driven the vehicle, make sure and check back your work for leaks..)

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 14th, 2008, 8:19 am

Also, if the filter is difficult to separate from the assembly, and you DO not have a vice grip or bench grip, YOu can simply mount the filter and assembly upside down on the mounting brackets and use a wrench to twist off..

Yes I had to use this method already.

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Postby Greypatch » November 19th, 2008, 5:22 pm

good job fellas

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Postby *Phoenix* » November 20th, 2008, 11:00 am

Does K&N make a fuel filter for the Hilux?
To replace the 23390-0L010 like Darren posted as OEM.

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Postby 3stagevtec » January 29th, 2009, 11:15 pm

got one to add..

i went SSL today and one of the mechanics said that a common problem with the Mazda B2500s (and Ford rangers) is that the exhaust manifold tends to get slack after a while.. resulting in a loss of power.. (lack of feed to the turbo)

he recommended that i pull on the bolts just to be sure..

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Postby Stuckindmud » January 29th, 2009, 11:35 pm

^^ that fuel filter on the mazda is the same on the SR5 toyota`s
:wink:

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Postby sweeks » January 3rd, 2010, 1:31 pm

bump ... for good info to remember.

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby wagon r » August 6th, 2010, 2:52 pm

Taken from the other diesel tech thread.

DRIVER
ENERGY EFFICIENCY
TIPS


DIESEL ENGINE
DIAGNOSTICS

Most diesel engine problems are related to the injection system. As such diagnosing diesel engine problems requires knowledge of engine and injection system operation.



This brochure provides you with the guideline to troubleshoot various diesel engine and injection system problems.

DIESEL ENGINE DIAGNOSTICS
Diesel engine problems that are most frequently encountered may be identified as follows

1. Excessive Exhaust Smoke

2. Engine Knocking

3. Engine Missing

4. Hard Starting

5. Lack of Power

6. Poor Fuel Efficiency

7. Fuel Leaks

8. Clogged Fuel Filters

These potential problems are briefly discussed below.


1. EXCESSIVE EXHAUST SMOKE
Excessive diesel smoke is due to incomplete combustion, normally caused by faulty injection system or other engine troubles. A small amount of exhaust smoke is normal during initial start-up or rapid acceleration.


Type of Smoke
Abnormal Exhaust smoke may be black, white or blue. Each type of smoke indicates engine problems and these are discussed below:


Black Smoke


Excessive black smoke is caused by a rich air-fuel mixture. This may result form problems with the injection pump or infection timing, which may in turn be clue to a choked air cleaner, worn fuel injectors, adulterated diesel fuel or the engine itself.


White Smoke


White smoke occurs mainly during cold starts, when the fuel tends to condense into liquid and does not burn due to cold engine parts. The most common reason for white smoke are in-operative glow plugs low engine compression, a bad injector spray pattern, late injection timing or injection pump problems.


Blue Smoke


Excessive blue smoke indicates problems from low engine compression and/or worn piston rings, scored cylinder walls or leaking valve stem seals The blue smoke is caused by crankcase oil entering the combustion chamber and being emitted after partial combustion through the exhaust


2. ENGINE KNOCKING
All diesel engines produce a "knocking" sound when running. In a diesel engine fuel ignites when infected into the combustion chamber. This rapid combustion produces very high pressures generating a rumble or dull clattering sound Abnormally loud "knocking" may be due to diesel engine miss.


3. ENGINE MISSING
A diesel engine miss results from one or more cylinders not burning fuel properly. This is caused by injection system problems which include:

Faulty injectors
Clogged fuel filters
Incorrect injection timing
Low engine compression
Injection system leaks •
Air leaks
Faulty injection pump


4. HARD STARTING
If diesel engine does not start it may be due to:

In-operative glow plugs
Restricted air or fuel flow
Bad fuel flow solenoid
Contaminated fuel
Injection pump problem
Low battery power

A slow cranking speed is a common cause for starting problem. Being a compression ignition engine, a diesel engine must crank fast enough to produce sufficient heat for combustion


5. LACK OF POWER
·Lack of engine power may be caused by

Slack throttle cables

Incorrect governor settings

Clogged fuel filters

Dirty air fillers

Low engine compression

Other factors affecting combustion


6. POOR FUEL ECONOMY
Poor fuel economy may be due to:

Fuel leak ·

Dirty air filter

Corrected injection timing

Leaking injectors


7. FUEL LEAKS
Leaking fuel lines or loose connections can adversely affect the performance of a diesel engine Pinpointing exact locations of fuel leak become much more easier when the engine is on Since fuel is injected at high pressure extra care must be taken as the leaking fuel can cause serious injury



If signs of fuel leakage are detected use a piece of cardboard to find the leak, move the cardboard around each fitting If there is a serious leak, it will strike the cardboard and not your hand, thereby avoiding serious injury to your hand


8. CLOGGED FUEL FILTERS
Other than the main filter installed in the fuel line for draining water, diesels have sock filters fitted in the fuel tank and some times in the injector assembly as shown below For optimum performance these filters must be kept clean.



DIESEL TESTS
Diesel Compression Test
Diesel engine compression test is similar to compression test for petrol engine. In diesels compression pressures are in the range of 3,000/ 4,500 psi Readings in each cylinder should be in the range of 50 to 75 psi of each other


Cylinder-Not-Firing Test
The resistance of each glow plug increases as the cylinders fire A no change in the resistance of any particular cylinder's flow plug will show that the cylinder in NOT firing. Pyrometer, a temperature sensing device can be used to detect temperatures at exhaust of each cylinder to confirm the NOT firing cylinder.


Injection Pressure Test
An injection pressure test uses special valves and high pressure gauge to test the following

Injector opening pressure

Injector nozzle leakage

Injection line pressure balance

Injection pump condition



Due to the versatility of this tester it helps in quickly locating bad nozzle, clogged injector filter or faulting pump.



DIESEL INJECTOR SERVICE
Most diesel engine problems are associated with the injection system Major injector system components have been discussed in driver energy tips No. 4 titled "Understanding and Maintaining Diesel Vehicles" In the following section information is provided on the proper functional characteristics of the diesel injector


Injector Opening Pressure
Typical diesel injector opening pressure is approximately 1,700 to 2,000 psi (pound per square inch) of opening pressure is not within service manual specifications, rebuild or replace the injector.


Injector Spray Pattern
Some diesel injectors make chattering sound during operation while others do not. However, all nozzles should make a swishing or pinging sound when spraying fuel.



As shown above there should be a narrow, cone shaped mist of fluid. A solid stream of fuel, uneven spray, excessively wide spray or spray filled with solid droplets indicates that the injector needs service and or replacement

DIESEL INJECTION SERVICE TIPS
1. Wear safety glasses when working on a diesel injection system.

When in doubt, refer to a service manual for the make of vehicle being serviced. The slightest mistake could upset engine performance or cause engine damage.

Always cap lines or plug fuel end fittings to prevent entry of foreign matter.

Never drop a diesel injector or injection pump. They can be damaged.

Remember that high pressure inside a diesel injection system can cause serious injury.

Some diesel injection systems must be bled (air removed) after repairs.

Clean around fittings before they are disconnected.

Adhere to all torque specifications. This is extremely all the more important on a diesel engine.

. Never use a bent, frayed, or kinked injection

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby *Phoenix* » February 12th, 2011, 9:20 am

I did an Oil Change, Fuel Filter Change and a Diesel Flush.
Saved myself $2900.00 as a DIY!
You can do it too.

Due to the quality of diesel a Diesel Flush is recommended by local dealers at every 20,000km. they Charge $800.00 for it. Here is how it's done...

Change the Fuel Filter as normal.
The 2 Hoses that are being disconnected and submerged in the Treatment is the Fuel line and the Return line...

Here is the lot.
Image

You will need a 14mm socket
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And an extension
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Gloves help keep your hands out of the oil
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Remember to hold on to the drain plug to avoid having to fish it out of the oil later.
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I remove the cap to allow air-flow for a faster draining.
Image

OEM Filters only.. They are worth the money...
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Admire
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Lube the rim of the filter to allow for a good seal.
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I use a funnel to avoid spillage. AMSOIL all the way.
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Removed the Fuel Filter (Follow prior instructions from 323WD!
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Old and NEW
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Wash out all this gunk...
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Insert new filter
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Don't forget this seal.
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I cut an Amsoil Bottle for this...
Also used a piece of wire to hold it in place.
The 2 lines submerged are the Fuel line and the Fuel return line..
Image

Start the vehicle and allow it to run until the fluid is used up...
Increasing the RPM in between to flush out injectors etc.
Takes about 20mins
Image

Image

Reattach hoses and enjoy the effects of a clean fuel system...
:twisted:

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby civic minded » February 12th, 2011, 5:32 pm

^^good info dude

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby lighthammer » February 12th, 2011, 6:57 pm

sweet!
Gonna do this on meh ol' frontier soon.

Good info phoenix 8)

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby lighthammer » February 12th, 2011, 7:42 pm

Phoenix what did you use to flush out the fuel system? I see that it's amsoil but which solution and what mixture did u use?

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby Team Loco » February 13th, 2011, 3:26 pm

good post pheonix. will use this on the sr5

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby lighthammer » February 13th, 2011, 3:39 pm

^ i was now gonna link this thread to you, TL.

Hope it works, lemme know cuz I'd like to try it on my Dad's L200 and the Frontier as well.
Not feeling brave enough to do it to the Navara yet :P

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby Team Loco » February 13th, 2011, 4:23 pm

true true. btw, sorry i didnt get to meet you on the run. i was there but too much newbies to meet lol.

the navarra too new to try that yet......i will do it and let you know

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby *Phoenix* » February 13th, 2011, 10:24 pm

Glad you Boyz like it.. My Hilux is 8 months old and 20,000km i'm glad i did it... ;)

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby badart » February 14th, 2011, 3:39 pm

excellent post, would definitely give it a try

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby 323_wagon_dude » February 14th, 2011, 4:26 pm

Pheonix,

The toyota oil filters with the plastic covering the openings are already lubricated and does not NEED to be lubricated. I used to still put oil in my filters just like you did out of habit, however if you don't its not big deal.

Just some info to know...

BTW... did you use the lucozade to give the van more energy?
LOL

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Re: General Maintainence Dept. for the DIY in all of us.

Postby lighthammer » February 14th, 2011, 4:39 pm

lighthammer wrote:Phoenix what did you use to flush out the fuel system? I see that it's amsoil but which solution and what mixture did u use?

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