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Postby Sabot » November 20th, 2008, 8:24 am

mazdaspeed wrote:how often do u you need to clean or replace this filter peeps? also to the mazda ppl do u get a vibrating noise to the rear when in rough roads thought it was comin from the back doors or behind the seat underwashed the noise stopped fora few days now its back again! :x anyone knows what cud cause it or how to stop it?


Both of my Rangers have this problem, think its the liners but not sure??

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 20th, 2008, 9:51 pm

manualmx wrote:
mazdaspeed wrote:how often do u you need to clean or replace this filter peeps? also to the mazda ppl do u get a vibrating noise to the rear when in rough roads thought it was comin from the back doors or behind the seat underwashed the noise stopped fora few days now its back again! :x anyone knows what cud cause it or how to stop it?


Both of my Rangers have this problem, think its the liners but not sure??


the rattling noise i get with the B2500 comes from the liner..

Thanks for the tips BT50.. so often you does have to change fuel filter! i thought it would have been like every 20,000kms or so.. good idea on buying the bucket from Lange, didn't think of that..

won't have any problems with point #6 :mrgreen:

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Postby bt50 » November 21st, 2008, 7:16 am

yeah every 5,000kms...you should see what comes out of it despite I filling up at a service station which was recently redone by NP. plus i think at 69.00 for a filter you cant go wrong....maybe we should contact AM marketing to buy the filters wholesale.....cheaper

addtionally remember this is a aftermarket filter and you not sure how durable they would be despite I read that drivers on the forum have not experienced problems with the sakuras...now if we were getting the bosch filters... :mrgreen:

20,000kms!!!! did you see what came out of your filter when you changed it...imagine what happening to your pump and of course power.....

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 21st, 2008, 7:44 am

bt50 wrote:3stage

I have a TCH bt50 4X4 which is the same engine as the b2500 (WL). Im now doing 25,000kms. A few pointers:

1) I change fuel filter every 5000km (Sakura FC1707 @ $69.00 @ TK Auto supplies on Cipero Street compared to SSL $84.00 plus VAT). Partner of mine told me that the sakura fc1001 works as well since he uses it on his TBH b2500. will try that next time


If the Sakura filter used to do its job, you wont not have gunk in the fuel pump strainer right? My original fuel filter lasted 40,000km.
For years I used the Sakura, and other filters to try to solve the problem of the gunk build up in the strainer.
I used to have to clean out the strainer every time I changed the fuel filter - which clogged and stopped working after 6-7000km. BTW, I found particles of filter element in the strainer twice.
If this pump strainer were an easily serviceable part, it would have been easier to access? You think?
Take my advice if you want: Use OEM filters for your fuel. Should last you 20K km at least... plus the piece of mind of NOT having any very fine particles entering the fuel pump.

3) change air filter every 5,000k


Not really... You can blow out the dirty filter with a compressor the first time. The second time, you can actually WASH the filter, but be careful with that. The aftermarket filters seem to work well. If you can get the Bosch, better for you. The element of those are thicker and more fabric like than the Sakura.

4) drain diesel tank every 6 months to get out the muck and sheit


Not necessary- fill up at clean or new fuel stations and you wont get any gunk/water into your fuel tank to begin with.
Only if your situation is really bad and you have no choice. Taking down the fuel tank requires some work...

What you have listed are really reactive measures to preventable problems.

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Postby bt50 » November 21st, 2008, 1:21 pm

bleedingfreak

your points are noted however:

1) we cannot get the oem filters for the mazda's even southern sales selling the sakuras and micro brand for the air filter. I would appreciate your feedback as to where we can get the oem. thanks

2) i fill up at a new service station which has a high turnover - every other day - and still get water and gunk in the diesel. Even rahamuts in south with the overhead diesel storage have gunk......lol. BTW i just drain the tank by removing the bolt at the bottom

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 22nd, 2008, 3:19 am

bt50 wrote:bleedingfreak

your points are noted however:

1) we cannot get the oem filters for the mazda's even southern sales selling the sakuras and micro brand for the air filter. I would appreciate your feedback as to where we can get the oem. thanks

2) i fill up at a new service station which has a high turnover - every other day - and still get water and gunk in the diesel. Even rahamuts in south with the overhead diesel storage have gunk......lol. BTW i just drain the tank by removing the bolt at the bottom


Ford parts work in the Mazda, and, are a bit cheaper. Check them out. In fact, that's where I get my Mazda parts from now.

I would suggest you fill from a service station that's on a hill maybe? I fill up at the service station in Mon Repos when I am in south. I used to go to the NP quickshoppe on Cipero St as well...

You dont have a shield to protect your fuel tank that needs to come out before you get to the drain plug?

I think your problems seem a little extreme given the age of your vehicle. That is trubbling!

Do you run your tank low?

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 22nd, 2008, 3:23 am

BTW, Southern Sales doing that crap for yours now. They sell you cheap aftermarket parts and tell you they dont have any OEM parts...

I went there for original glow plugs once and they tried to sell me NGK for $120 for one. I got the NGK plugs by my parts guy for $75.00...

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Postby bt50 » November 22nd, 2008, 12:10 pm

Freak
Actually I don't have any problems wid my ride. Its jus I'm being extra careful by doing these "extreme" maintenance.I guess from reading ur response I will go in by ford & get the fuel filter.

Also I don't really run below quarter tank

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 22nd, 2008, 1:38 pm

Potay :)

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Postby mazdaspeed » November 23rd, 2008, 2:41 pm

i dont hava liner in my tray as yet but there's a rattling noise at times :evil:

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Postby 3stagevtec » December 27th, 2008, 2:00 am

-bump-

got a question about the clutch.. i find the pedal real hard to depress in the 2500, feels really heavy, much harder than the turbo & non turbo Frontier's we have at work.. even the Ford my pops drive at work is easier to press down on..

is that normal for the Mazdas? if not, what could be responsible for it? could it be adjusted etc..

thanks..

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Postby sweeks » December 27th, 2008, 8:53 am

bt50 wrote:2) MOBIL 1 delvac - bought a bucket from Lange Trinidad- change oil every 10,000km- monitor oil level from 7500km though


Just one thing to note here, if you're running those kind of intervals, you need to ensure you buy the full sythetic Delvac1 ($1000+ per 5 gallon pail) and not the regular mineral oil.

3Stage I've always found the Mazda clutch (TBR series) real hard ... not sure why ...

Where Freak?

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Postby bleedingfreak » December 27th, 2008, 12:22 pm

The Mazda clutch is tough... not Land Rover tough, but hard nonetheless. Personally I never really found it to be THAT much harder than the Hilux.

Just do an inspection of the clutch hydraulic system to be sure. I cant be sure what would cause it.

sweeky - I thought Delvac was the brand name for the fully synthetic oil? In fact, I thought Mobil1 was ExxonMobil's flag bearing brand? Why - I have never seen Mobil1 in anything but fully synthetic.

Clarify please!

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Postby 3stagevtec » December 27th, 2008, 3:43 pm

nice, glad to know it's on the normal side.. will have the clutch hydraulic system checked out just to be sure..

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Postby 10-01 » December 27th, 2008, 10:44 pm

hey guys i have a BT50 i was wondering wats a better oil to use
Texaco Ursa Premium TDX SAE 15W-40
OR
Castrol syntec 15w 40 diesel

the reason i ask is that , i use the texaco in my nissan dump trucks and no problems at all and i buy oil in barrels , but i knw the syntec is better but would it make muc of a difference if i use the castrol syntec in place of the Texaco 15w 40 ? keep in mnd i change oil every 5000 k on the dot ......... ?

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Postby 3stagevtec » December 27th, 2008, 11:00 pm

Skunk2 wrote:hey guys i have a BT50 i was wondering wats a better oil to use
Texaco Ursa Premium TDX SAE 15W-40
OR
Castrol syntec 15w 40 diesel

the reason i ask is that , i use the texaco in my nissan dump trucks and no problems at all and i buy oil in barrels , but i knw the syntec is better but would it make muc of a difference if i use the castrol syntec in place of the Texaco 15w 40 ? keep in mnd i change oil every 5000 k on the dot ......... ?


IMO, whatever oil you choose, you shouldn't have any problems..

the main key here from what i've learnt is regular oil changes.. 5k (not 5000k :wink: ) is excellent..

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Postby sweeks » December 28th, 2008, 8:49 am

bleedingfreak wrote:sweeky - I thought Delvac was the brand name for the fully synthetic oil? In fact, I thought Mobil1 was ExxonMobil's flag bearing brand? Why - I have never seen Mobil1 in anything but fully synthetic.

Clarify please!


I always thought that too, however when I made the group buy I realized that there were two versions :

Mobil Delvac MX 15W-40 - indicates regular mineral oil.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/ ... 15W-40.asp

Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 - indicates a fully sythetic oil (which is the one you wanna use if you're running up to 10 000km)
http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/ ... _5W-40.asp

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Postby bt50 » December 29th, 2008, 7:54 am

i use delvac 5w-40 synthetic cost about 1100 a bucket

the 15-40 delvac cost just over 500 a bucket

i change every 10K

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Postby 10-01 » December 29th, 2008, 8:32 am

$1100 a bucket :shock:

i buy a barrel of Ursa 15w 40 for $3787 for 4 buckets u can get a barrel of oil :roll:

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Postby bleedingfreak » December 29th, 2008, 8:55 am

That is fully synthetic eh..

And besides, Lange dont give no discounts to private customers... Only wholesale/part places get wholesale price.

So you might be getting the wholesale price for the barrels you buy, regardless of the amount.

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Postby 3stagevtec » January 29th, 2009, 11:08 pm

<<bump>>

new question.. a guy familiar with pickups said that the front of the B2500 looking too low..

he measured the distance from the back of the van to the ground, and the front of the van to the ground, and showed that the front end had dropped a bit..

he said the torsion bars needed adjusting.. could i adjust those myself or would it be better to have them professionally done :?:

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Postby 323_wagon_dude » January 30th, 2009, 7:30 am

^^ talk to Stuck and Wagon_r. I believe they had adjusted their torsion bars.

You could do it yourself once you have the proper equipment. You'll have to lift the vehicle off the ground so you'll need a lift or lots of jack stands :D

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Postby bleedingfreak » January 30th, 2009, 1:13 pm

3stagevtec wrote:<<bump>>

new question.. a guy familiar with pickups said that the front of the B2500 looking too low..

he measured the distance from the back of the van to the ground, and the front of the van to the ground, and showed that the front end had dropped a bit..

he said the torsion bars needed adjusting.. could i adjust those myself or would it be better to have them professionally done :?:


Hmm... The back end of the truck is *usually* higher than the front...

Check your owner's manual to determine the distances that the vehicle should be, before making adjustments...

If you can get a shop manual.. better... if you get one, get one for me too! ;-)

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Postby 3stagevtec » January 30th, 2009, 2:30 pm

i gotta get a manual for that pickup...

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Postby MonsterPower » January 30th, 2009, 3:13 pm

i might have one in our pickup .. will look tmr ..


and as for offroad style 3stage anytime u ready and i say anytime u ready i will take u for an extreme offroad experience...

that goes for anyone in the tabaquite/guaracara area ... who say quarry hills :evil: :evil: :evil:

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Postby 3stagevtec » January 30th, 2009, 3:19 pm

MonsterPower wrote:i might have one in our pickup .. will look tmr ..


and as for offroad style 3stage anytime u ready and i say anytime u ready i will take u for an extreme offroad experience...

that goes for anyone in the tabaquite/guaracara area ... who say quarry hills :evil: :evil: :evil:


SWEEEEEET!!! i'll take you up on that for sure!! :D

lemme know if you find the manual.. thanks..

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Postby bleedingfreak » January 30th, 2009, 4:34 pm

3stagevtec wrote:
MonsterPower wrote:i might have one in our pickup .. will look tmr ..


and as for offroad style 3stage anytime u ready and i say anytime u ready i will take u for an extreme offroad experience...

that goes for anyone in the tabaquite/guaracara area ... who say quarry hills :evil: :evil: :evil:


SWEEEEEET!!! i'll take you up on that for sure!! :D

lemme know if you find the manual.. thanks..


so... allyuh punks not coming on the diesel run then?

Geez...
try and represent for the Mazda nah...
:roll:

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Postby MonsterPower » January 31st, 2009, 12:11 pm

i wont mind but already made plans with the misus .... wont mind being at the next garadge day

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Postby nick009 » December 27th, 2009, 11:19 am

i notice mine(ranger) has a spring in it but i have absolutely no idea how to get out the spring or the strainer. any assistance here?

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Postby nick009 » December 27th, 2009, 11:34 am

ok got the spring out now how to get out the strainer?
can i just blast it with powerfoam in place?

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