Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
Stuckindmud wrote:Filters
There is a reason that the fuel filter mounted on a diesel engine is called the secondary filter. The engine manufacturer expects this filter to deal only with contamination small enough to have passed through the primary filter. Every diesel engine must have both a primary and a secondary filter, and the primary filter must remove water from the fuel.
wagon r wrote:there's a tap off at the bottom of your fuel filter for the water separator, this should be drained monthly ( let the water run out till u see fuel coming out )
the fuel filter itself should ideally be changed with oil filter , but if no particles are observed when the water is drained, keeep it till you see dregs coming out.
glow plugs should be removed & checked if you get difficulty in starting on mornings
Stuckindmud wrote:waye sah.. plenty queestions there
you find the Primer Pump in that pic. The filter is screwed to the bottom of that .Much liek an oil filter. The water bleed is usually at the bottom of that filter.
That is usually the sec filter - ther eis a strainer in the tank - that one - which separates water and particles that get past the in tank strainer .. and if its the WL - there is a strainer in the pump as well - Freak or Wagon_r should be able to tell you
Idealy you shouldnt be cekin the glow plugs - they only run when starting the engine and is a low wear item - this is not a gas engine that needs to have the plugs changed regularly. If they`re bad - the first sign would be long tumbles to start or not starting outright.
As for the oils n Stuff - Freak - Wagon would be your buddies
Generally at 40 000kms - all fluids are changed Gearbox , Transfer case , Front Diff and Rear Diff., brake and clutch .. and the regular engine oil - (Mobil1 Delvac is good) .Gear Oils vary - Hypoy C 75 W90 works well for everything- and if you have an LSD some guys run full syntech (Castrol btw) - Good idea to get a maintence history so you know where to start.
I`m sure you`d do your own research - so post up what you find
wagon r wrote:^ most of the questions answered there but go back to SSL and ask for a print out of the service history for the van.....that way you could track what was done and how to go about servicing the van in the future....
next would be asking the prev. owner what he did and didn't do.....check for 4x4 use ...ask as many questions as possible....
....and when we have our next garage lime.....should be about Feb-Mar....pass thru and we'll look it over for you.
btw....if yuh centrally located, i could make a swing by and give it a look over or PM Freak..... the WL expert..
bleedingfreak wrote:Remote Free Wheel
it unlocks the front wheels electronically.
If your going to use the 4WD again, you can leave it locked.
With the Mazda you have t6o stop to engage the 4WD initially, but once the RFW light is on, you can take out and put in 4WD on the fly... or drive... but at low speeds, no need to come to a complete stop.
Changing to 4L... you must stop completely
manualmx wrote:Good buy, when I bought mines I did a full fluid change just to be sure and that was at 27000k. Stick to the Castrol for the gear oils since the Mobil has been noted to wear certain bronze components on internal Mazda parts in gearboxes and diffs.
As far as turbo timers go according to mazda with the WL engines they say there i no need to install a timer. Just to be on the safe side I installed one of the remote start viper alarms which came with a built in turbo timer and if you don't have an alarm already its a good investment. Like they said; 30 psi is what is indicated on the original sticker on the underside of the driver door and is all I ever used. The secondary filter in the pump (strainer) tends to get really dirty from time to time and will need to be cleaned or replaced. Dealer has this filter for approx 100TT.
bleedingfreak wrote:And READ the 310 pages of the maintenance THREAD!!!
Everything you need is in there.
manualmx wrote:The strainer is on the diesel pump in the engine bay. The hose that goes from the fuel primer pump (fuel filter) goes into the pump and is attached with a size 17 bolt. Use a proper socket and extension to remove this bold and move the line aside. Then you need to remove the crush washers from between the line and the metal spacer as well as the spring inside the hole. Then you need to reach down with something inside the pump to pull out the small strainer. i use a small flat screwdriver blade that fits just enough to pull out on the rim of the strainer.
Just follow the fuel line to where it attaches to the engine and you will see what I mean.
manualmx wrote:The strainer is on the diesel pump in the engine bay. The hose that goes from the fuel primer pump (fuel filter) goes into the pump and is attached with a size 17 bolt. Use a proper socket and extension to remove this bold and move the line aside. Then you need to remove the crush washers from between the line and the metal spacer as well as the spring inside the hole. Then you need to reach down with something inside the pump to pull out the small strainer. i use a small flat screwdriver blade that fits just enough to pull out on the rim of the strainer.
Just follow the fuel line to where it attaches to the engine and you will see what I mean.
manualmx wrote:You are looking at the right place. The filter is inside about 3/4 inch inside and may be difficult to see without a light. Look carefully and be careful not to damage the strainer when trying to take it out. Also the small washers and strainer etc are a byotch to find if it falls down inside the engine bay...
manualmx wrote:Nope the strainer is there- see the gold colored rim down inside the fluid? Thats the rim of the filter.
On another note- anyone knows where I can get the three washers that are used in the fuel line connection to the injector pump?? Mc Enearny nor S.Sales have any. Anyone know where to find this or a suitable replacement?
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