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3stagevtec
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Mazda B2500 Maintenance -> pg3

Postby 3stagevtec » November 6th, 2008, 3:01 am

hey guys, got some questions.. my dad just bought a Mazda B2500, 4x4 2.5L Turbo Diesel.. that thing drives sweet!

this one:
Image

anyway, he bought it local used and didn't get the owners manual for it.. i want to do some maintenance on it for him and need some recommendations.. i'm new to the Diesel / Turbo scene btw..

1) what type / specification of oil will be best for this engine? (engine has 58,000kms on it)

2) i want to flush the transmission as well, what type of transmission fluid should i use in the Mazda? or would any good Manual transmission fluid, say from Quaker State, work..

3) recommend a decent / inexpensive(ish) turbo timer..

4) what about the transfer case and differentials? would they need to be serviced as well? (i.e. replace fluids)

5) anything else i missed?

6) got any links to download the owners manual / FSM? or does anyone have a copy to lend / sell?

help would be greatly appreciated, especially for the first two questions..
thanks
Last edited by 3stagevtec on December 27th, 2008, 2:01 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 6th, 2008, 5:08 am

got some more questions.. found these in the sticky's..

Stuckindmud wrote:Filters
There is a reason that the fuel filter mounted on a diesel engine is called the secondary filter. The engine manufacturer expects this filter to deal only with contamination small enough to have passed through the primary filter. Every diesel engine must have both a primary and a secondary filter, and the primary filter must remove water from the fuel.


wagon r wrote:there's a tap off at the bottom of your fuel filter for the water separator, this should be drained monthly ( let the water run out till u see fuel coming out )
the fuel filter itself should ideally be changed with oil filter , but if no particles are observed when the water is drained, keeep it till you see dregs coming out.

glow plugs should be removed & checked if you get difficulty in starting on mornings


7) the big filter housing in the engine bay is which filter? the primary or secondary?

this one..
Image

i just not seeing a bleed valve on it.. :( the primer pump on top of it works though, i tried pressing it, but it's pretty firm.. so i guess that's good..

8] where is the other filter located?

9) if there is no bleed valve, do i just remove the top of the housing and empty its contents??

10) when checking the glow plugs, what signs should i look for to visually see if they are bad..

thanks again..

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Postby Stuckindmud » November 6th, 2008, 7:59 am

waye sah.. plenty queestions there
you find the Primer Pump in that pic. The filter is screwed to the bottom of that .Much liek an oil filter. The water bleed is usually at the bottom of that filter.
That is usually the sec filter - ther eis a strainer in the tank - that one - which separates water and particles that get past the in tank strainer .. and if its the WL - there is a strainer in the pump as well - Freak or Wagon_r should be able to tell you

Idealy you shouldnt be cekin the glow plugs - they only run when starting the engine and is a low wear item - this is not a gas engine that needs to have the plugs changed regularly. If they`re bad - the first sign would be long tumbles to start or not starting outright.

As for the oils n Stuff - Freak - Wagon would be your buddies
Generally at 40 000kms - all fluids are changed Gearbox , Transfer case , Front Diff and Rear Diff., brake and clutch .. and the regular engine oil - (Mobil1 Delvac is good) .Gear Oils vary - Hypoy C 75 W90 works well for everything- and if you have an LSD some guys run full syntech (Castrol btw) - Good idea to get a maintence history so you know where to start.

I`m sure you`d do your own research - so post up what you find :wink:

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Postby wagon r » November 6th, 2008, 9:03 am

^ most of the questions answered there but go back to SSL and ask for a print out of the service history for the van.....that way you could track what was done and how to go about servicing the van in the future....

next would be asking the prev. owner what he did and didn't do.....check for 4x4 use ...ask as many questions as possible....


....and when we have our next garage lime.....should be about Feb-Mar....pass thru and we'll look it over for you.

btw....if yuh centrally located, i could make a swing by and give it a look over or PM Freak..... the WL expert..

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 6th, 2008, 4:48 pm

Stuckindmud wrote:waye sah.. plenty queestions there
you find the Primer Pump in that pic. The filter is screwed to the bottom of that .Much liek an oil filter. The water bleed is usually at the bottom of that filter.
That is usually the sec filter - ther eis a strainer in the tank - that one - which separates water and particles that get past the in tank strainer .. and if its the WL - there is a strainer in the pump as well - Freak or Wagon_r should be able to tell you

Idealy you shouldnt be cekin the glow plugs - they only run when starting the engine and is a low wear item - this is not a gas engine that needs to have the plugs changed regularly. If they`re bad - the first sign would be long tumbles to start or not starting outright.

As for the oils n Stuff - Freak - Wagon would be your buddies
Generally at 40 000kms - all fluids are changed Gearbox , Transfer case , Front Diff and Rear Diff., brake and clutch .. and the regular engine oil - (Mobil1 Delvac is good) .Gear Oils vary - Hypoy C 75 W90 works well for everything- and if you have an LSD some guys run full syntech (Castrol btw) - Good idea to get a maintence history so you know where to start.

I`m sure you`d do your own research - so post up what you find :wink:


thanks man, i got a lil carried away last night.. :lol:

did the oil change today.. used this:

Image

Mobil 1 Delvac 5W - 40

i saw this sticker on the rear differential housing..

Image

i guess it's an LSD :shock: :D

tomorrow i'll buy the fuel filter and open up the filter housing.. i still not seeing a bleed valve, but i'll know for sure tomorrow..

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 6th, 2008, 4:53 pm

wagon r wrote:^ most of the questions answered there but go back to SSL and ask for a print out of the service history for the van.....that way you could track what was done and how to go about servicing the van in the future....

next would be asking the prev. owner what he did and didn't do.....check for 4x4 use ...ask as many questions as possible....


....and when we have our next garage lime.....should be about Feb-Mar....pass thru and we'll look it over for you.

btw....if yuh centrally located, i could make a swing by and give it a look over or PM Freak..... the WL expert..


we bought it from a guy who buys and sells used vehicles.. i went to SSL, they didn't want to give a print out of the service history, but they did read it for me..

according to their records was the 1st service was done in June 2005 and a 2nd service was performed after that.. nothing else was ever repaired.. nice!

the guys at Federal said that i didn't need to change the gear / differential oils..

the mazda driving real nice so far, no odd noises or anything.. the low range transfer works as well.. only thing now it to try it out in some unfriendly terrain 8-)

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Postby wagon r » November 6th, 2008, 5:23 pm

^ nice, glad to hear that.....

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 6th, 2008, 8:07 pm

:lol: just came back from the gas station.. van had 1/4 tank of diesel.. i handed the station attendant $100, thinking that should bring it up around the 3/4 mark... (which is usually the case with the Vitara)

damn thing only took $68 to fill!! :shock: SWEET!!!

btw, the tyres are 265/70R15.. how much pressure you guys normally run? right now they all have around 30 PSI in each.. (there isn't any pressure chart inside the driver door.. :? )

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Postby wagon r » November 6th, 2008, 9:41 pm

^ yuh good to go there. i usually run the same and we both have the same Mich ATX tyres.....gives a decent ride....not to hard.

and as for the money yuh save, watch and see how fast yuh sell the vitara... :lol: :lol:


...welcome to the diesel world... :!:

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 6th, 2008, 10:31 pm

nice, thanks for the info man..

somehow i feel i'll be using my pops ride alot more than mines.. :lol: Diesel FTW!

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Postby 323_wagon_dude » November 7th, 2008, 6:50 am

^^ I wouldn't doubt that...

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 9th, 2008, 6:36 am

Another converted...

You can call me with your questions. No problems.

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 9th, 2008, 9:37 pm

^ thanks man..

when i engage the 4 wheel drive, an "RFW Lock" light comes on in the dash..

Image

and when i go back to 2WD, i gotta press a RFW lock switch for the loght to come off..

what's RFW??

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 10th, 2008, 7:11 am

Remote Free Wheel

it unlocks the front wheels electronically.

If your going to use the 4WD again, you can leave it locked.

With the Mazda you have t6o stop to engage the 4WD initially, but once the RFW light is on, you can take out and put in 4WD on the fly... or drive... but at low speeds, no need to come to a complete stop.

Changing to 4L... you must stop completely

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 10th, 2008, 7:14 am

You can run pressure that is comfortable for you.

30 psi is okay.. I use about 31 in the Hilux and 29 in the Mazda. Whenever the Hilux pressure gets lower the ride is uncomfortable... Real bouncy. The Mazda gets rougher with lower pressure, and handling is a real chore...

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 10th, 2008, 10:03 pm

bleedingfreak wrote:Remote Free Wheel

it unlocks the front wheels electronically.

If your going to use the 4WD again, you can leave it locked.

With the Mazda you have t6o stop to engage the 4WD initially, but once the RFW light is on, you can take out and put in 4WD on the fly... or drive... but at low speeds, no need to come to a complete stop.

Changing to 4L... you must stop completely


ok, so that's how it works.. so for lil offroading adventures where i'll need to use the 4WD a few times, i can leave it on.. but for everyday use, i guess it's best left off..

right now, i find the 30psi riding pretty nice.. road noise isn't what i was expecting from those Michelin All Terrain tyres, rides pretty quite on smooth roads.. even in the bumpy stuff, the ride comfort is impressive..

i'll monitor how the tyres wear at 30psi and then adjust to suit..

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Postby Sabot » November 12th, 2008, 7:42 am

Good buy, when I bought mines I did a full fluid change just to be sure and that was at 27000k. Stick to the Castrol for the gear oils since the Mobil has been noted to wear certain bronze components on internal Mazda parts in gearboxes and diffs.
As far as turbo timers go according to mazda with the WL engines they say there i no need to install a timer. Just to be on the safe side I installed one of the remote start viper alarms which came with a built in turbo timer and if you don't have an alarm already its a good investment. Like they said; 30 psi is what is indicated on the original sticker on the underside of the driver door and is all I ever used. The secondary filter in the pump (strainer) tends to get really dirty from time to time and will need to be cleaned or replaced. Dealer has this filter for approx 100TT.

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 12th, 2008, 9:03 am

manualmx wrote:Good buy, when I bought mines I did a full fluid change just to be sure and that was at 27000k. Stick to the Castrol for the gear oils since the Mobil has been noted to wear certain bronze components on internal Mazda parts in gearboxes and diffs.
As far as turbo timers go according to mazda with the WL engines they say there i no need to install a timer. Just to be on the safe side I installed one of the remote start viper alarms which came with a built in turbo timer and if you don't have an alarm already its a good investment. Like they said; 30 psi is what is indicated on the original sticker on the underside of the driver door and is all I ever used. The secondary filter in the pump (strainer) tends to get really dirty from time to time and will need to be cleaned or replaced. Dealer has this filter for approx 100TT.


I would recommend you change out all the fluids just to be sure... Cant remember the quantities, etc right now. And yes you need an LSD gear oil for the front and back diffs...

I didnt know that about the Mobil1 though. Never heard abotu that before. The Mazda uses Castrol Gear oil anyways...

WRT the turbo timer. I always say its a waste of money. Do you come to your final destination at HIGH Rev? I mean... I start to slow down wherever I am going from a while back.
The only time think I would ever have to come to a complete stop from high rev is maybe if I stop off the highway to buy something (fish, boil corn, etc :lol: ) And even then, would you just jump out and switch off the engine?
Turbo timers also require you to leave the vehicle in neutral. Not something u want to do all the time.
So think about it and come to your own conclusions...

Lastly, the strainer in the fuel pump is fully cleanable. There is no need to replace this as it is metallic. Do not clean with anything harsh, just spray it out with some WD-40... Leave it to soak in it for a minute if you like and BAM! Its good as new.

Your primary filter needs to be changed regularly. Also, I have had experience wiht the cheaper filters and they do NOT work as well as the OEM. My advice - shell out the money for your OEM filter and you wont have any fuel filter headaches.
Fill up at clean or new diesel stations.

And READ the 310 pages of the maintenance THREAD!!! :lol: :lol:

Everything you need is in there.

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 12th, 2008, 3:18 pm

bleedingfreak wrote:And READ the 310 pages of the maintenance THREAD!!! :lol: :lol:

Everything you need is in there.


i tried once.. managed to reach page 3 :shock: :lol: and i didn't want to ask for help in that thread either, because the info would have gotten lost in there as well..

to get to the strainer in the fuel pump, would i have to take down the fuel tank? or can i access it from under the back seat / side of the tank / etc? i haven't looked around there as yet..

that's for all the advice!

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Postby Sabot » November 12th, 2008, 8:35 pm

The strainer is on the diesel pump in the engine bay. The hose that goes from the fuel primer pump (fuel filter) goes into the pump and is attached with a size 17 bolt. Use a proper socket and extension to remove this bold and move the line aside. Then you need to remove the crush washers from between the line and the metal spacer as well as the spring inside the hole. Then you need to reach down with something inside the pump to pull out the small strainer. i use a small flat screwdriver blade that fits just enough to pull out on the rim of the strainer.
Just follow the fuel line to where it attaches to the engine and you will see what I mean.

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Postby wagon r » November 12th, 2008, 9:09 pm

^ i have to clean mine.....will try to do it before month end..

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Postby bleedingfreak » November 13th, 2008, 11:16 am

manualmx wrote:The strainer is on the diesel pump in the engine bay. The hose that goes from the fuel primer pump (fuel filter) goes into the pump and is attached with a size 17 bolt. Use a proper socket and extension to remove this bold and move the line aside. Then you need to remove the crush washers from between the line and the metal spacer as well as the spring inside the hole. Then you need to reach down with something inside the pump to pull out the small strainer. i use a small flat screwdriver blade that fits just enough to pull out on the rim of the strainer.
Just follow the fuel line to where it attaches to the engine and you will see what I mean.


What he said...

Also if you have a tractor battery like me, you will need to move that first, maybe to give urself room to work.

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 13th, 2008, 8:13 pm

i'm learning... :D

http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=3009008#3009008

before the change, the Mazda had a tendency to want to stall when driven at low rpms, e.g. driving in 2nd gear in heavy traffic.. i had to use 1st gear every time i came to a near stop / stop..

after installing the new filter, the low end performance was significantly improved! only a slight inprovement in midrange power was noted..

--------------------------------------------------------

manualmx wrote:The strainer is on the diesel pump in the engine bay. The hose that goes from the fuel primer pump (fuel filter) goes into the pump and is attached with a size 17 bolt. Use a proper socket and extension to remove this bold and move the line aside. Then you need to remove the crush washers from between the line and the metal spacer as well as the spring inside the hole. Then you need to reach down with something inside the pump to pull out the small strainer. i use a small flat screwdriver blade that fits just enough to pull out on the rim of the strainer.
Just follow the fuel line to where it attaches to the engine and you will see what I mean.


i just not seeing it.. :(

i followed the fuel line from the fuel filter leading to the engine.

Image

i disconnected the 17 bolt, took out all the washers.. but didn't see any filter in there (look at the top RHS of the pic, you'll see the fuel line i disconnected)..

somehow i feel i looking in the wrong place, i just can't see a filter fitting in that small space...

Image

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Postby Stuckindmud » November 13th, 2008, 9:49 pm

Boss write up on the DIY thread ...

Is Venum to represent Mitsu now and a volunteer for the Nissan camp

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Postby Sabot » November 14th, 2008, 10:42 am

You are looking at the right place. The filter is inside about 3/4 inch inside and may be difficult to see without a light. Look carefully and be careful not to damage the strainer when trying to take it out. Also the small washers and strainer etc are a byotch to find if it falls down inside the engine bay...

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 14th, 2008, 4:05 pm

manualmx wrote:You are looking at the right place. The filter is inside about 3/4 inch inside and may be difficult to see without a light. Look carefully and be careful not to damage the strainer when trying to take it out. Also the small washers and strainer etc are a byotch to find if it falls down inside the engine bay...


with a light, should i have clearly seen it? i looked with a light, but didn't see anything looking strainer-ish..

look at this image.. does it look like the strainer is missing?

Image

thanks again..

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Postby Sabot » November 18th, 2008, 10:24 am

Nope the strainer is there- see the gold colored rim down inside the fluid? Thats the rim of the filter.

On another note- anyone knows where I can get the three washers that are used in the fuel line connection to the injector pump?? Mc Enearny nor S.Sales have any. Anyone know where to find this or a suitable replacement?

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Postby 3stagevtec » November 18th, 2008, 1:54 pm

manualmx wrote:Nope the strainer is there- see the gold colored rim down inside the fluid? Thats the rim of the filter.

On another note- anyone knows where I can get the three washers that are used in the fuel line connection to the injector pump?? Mc Enearny nor S.Sales have any. Anyone know where to find this or a suitable replacement?


thanks, i'll check it again..

if you know how i does fraid to drop them washers.. i sure it will lost if i do.. :?

give Federal a call, i not sure if they will have the correct size but you might get lucky..

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Postby mazdaspeed » November 20th, 2008, 1:15 am

how often do u you need to clean or replace this filter peeps? also to the mazda ppl do u get a vibrating noise to the rear when in rough roads thought it was comin from the back doors or behind the seat underwashed the noise stopped fora few days now its back again! :x anyone knows what cud cause it or how to stop it?

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Postby bt50 » November 20th, 2008, 7:00 am

3stage

I have a TCH bt50 4X4 which is the same engine as the b2500 (WL). Im now doing 25,000kms. A few pointers:

1) I change fuel filter every 5000km (Sakura FC1707 @ $69.00 @ TK Auto supplies on Cipero Street compared to SSL $84.00 plus VAT). Partner of mine told me that the sakura fc1001 works as well since he uses it on his TBH b2500. will try that next time
2) MOBIL 1 delvac - bought a bucket from Lange Trinidad- change oil every 10,000km- monitor oil level from 7500km though
3) change air filter every 5,000k
4) drain diesel tank every 6 months to get out the muck and sheit
5) use amsoil cetane boost and amsoil diesel additive - 3 ozs every other fill up- again got it by TK auto supplies
6) engage 4 wheel once a week to keep the stuff working :mrgreen:
7) read the diesel boys forum every day - yes every day
8) try and go on many of the lime with the crew . I ent reach yet though :|

Happy dieseling


btw did you find the strainer?

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