Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

lighthammer · Postby **lighthammer** » May 22nd, 2012, 9:20 pm

^^ yup sounds like ABS was kicking in.

Find a nice soft spot on a piece of dirt and try to recreate the scenario, mash brakes suddenly a low speed and see if you get a jerk/shudder and rattling noise from the brake pedal.
It will feel very unnatural and your instinct will be to lift off the brakes cuz you're like "WTF IS THAT OMG MY VAN GOING AND MASH UP!!" but don't worry, that's the ABS kicking in, pulsing and giving you back control.

homeboy · Postby **homeboy** » June 5th, 2012, 7:31 pm

So today i decided to change my oil, i normally do the change myself..........drag my ars under the van to take the under shield off and it was not there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.....wtf......

civic minded · Postby **civic minded** » July 4th, 2012, 9:05 am

first time today i had to use the warranty service with the firm - I was getting a strange hissing sound, i suspected at first it was the fan belts. I took it to Jerrys and he told me it was the Injector seals for the No. 2 injector and it cost around $550+ . and he need to check if the injector itself it bad then it will cost me $6000.00. I said NAH! took it straight to the firm. Didn't have to pay a cent! Injector and seals changed and van back to normal.

lighthammer · Postby **lighthammer** » July 8th, 2012, 11:16 am

^ that's great man!

Postby **tr1ad** » July 10th, 2012, 9:56 pm

yo peeps

might be making a tush soon

will post details later on once all goes well

medalist · Postby **medalist** » July 30th, 2012, 6:52 pm

Does the 3.0L TDCI Ranger burn oil? i monitoring my oil these days and i find it going down slowly

Cooper · Postby **Cooper** » August 2nd, 2012, 7:58 am

You should expect your oil to burn off as it starts to break down close to an expected oil change. If you recently had an oil change (maybe within the last 2000Km) and you are seeing a significant burn off, you may have some issues.

Other than that, you may just have to top up the oil until your next oil change. Your owners manual lists the amount of oil needed to top up between the high and low points on the dipstick..

trinibajan34 · Postby **trinibajan34** » August 16th, 2012, 10:56 pm

i got three questions to ask
1) how can you tell when yuh cross going
2) how can you tell when yuh engine mount or gearbox mount gone and
3) where can i get an inner cv boot besides de firm , the right side rip ,i dont know how it rip

trinibajan34 · Postby **trinibajan34** » August 17th, 2012, 10:55 am

anybody

trinibajan34 · Postby **trinibajan34** » August 18th, 2012, 4:57 pm

ok so nobody helping me oh thanks ryan. and i got the inner cv boot at courtesy in aranguez

spydafrog · Postby **spydafrog** » August 22nd, 2012, 9:32 am

Good morning,
In servicing my K&N filter for the first time, I took the liberty to have a look at my Master Air Flow Sensor in my 2009 3.0L Auto Ranger.

It can use some cleaning. I've looked around for an appropriate cleaner but not certain what is best to use. Can anyone knowledgeable of the topic direct me to the best product available and where I can obtain it?

I would ideally like to use this product but cannot find it locally: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4 ... AA300_.jpg

My MAS is similar to: http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/sensor ... sensor.jpg

Please advise.

spydafrog · Postby **spydafrog** » August 29th, 2012, 12:54 pm

any response on cleaning the MAS?

trinibajan34 · Postby **trinibajan34** » August 31st, 2012, 8:33 am

this is for the Ford Fans, saw it and had to take pics and post it. This is in Edmonton Canada south common.

civic minded · Postby **civic minded** » August 31st, 2012, 3:34 pm

damn!!!!!!

homeboy · Postby **homeboy** » September 1st, 2012, 12:09 pm

Hope yuh bring one back in yuh luggage Bernard......

Anyone knows where i can get glow plugs for my 2006/07 Ranger?
I checked on cipero street and the guy said his ones are 7 volts and i need like 11 volts or so....true?

civic minded · Postby **civic minded** » September 1st, 2012, 7:53 pm

check jerrys in chase village or filterproz in chaguanas.

medalist · Postby **medalist** » September 2nd, 2012, 12:20 pm

Was looking at the owners manual and it said to use mercon V in the auto tranny for the TDCI engine.

Looking at buying this castrol to do a change, have anyone used this before?

trinibajan34 · Postby **trinibajan34** » September 2nd, 2012, 12:58 pm

homeboy wrote:Hope yuh bring one back in yuh luggage Bernard......

Anyone knows where i can get glow plugs for my 2006/07 Ranger?
I checked on cipero street and the guy said his ones are 7 volts and i need like 11 volts or so....true?

robert i wish i could, ramlogans in duncan village has glow plugs for ur engine $460 i think i paid for mine.

Cooper · Postby **Cooper** » September 3rd, 2012, 9:20 am

WLT owners... I'm getting a slight rough idle on a cold start... I know it's the glow plugs and was searching online for information on how these things function when I accidentally came across a student training manual for the WLT engine.

It contains a lot of useful information on the systems that govern your engine. I uploaded to my DropBox site, the link is here. Hope you find it useful.

trinibajan34 · Postby **trinibajan34** » September 3rd, 2012, 9:49 am

Yea more info thanks cooper

Paullct · Postby **Paullct** » September 3rd, 2012, 10:55 am

nice post cooper

trinibajan34 · Postby **trinibajan34** » September 7th, 2012, 1:25 pm

what body oil alyuh using in rear diff fellas with 4x4

DVSTT · Postby **DVSTT** » September 7th, 2012, 4:09 pm

The new 3.2 Ranger is an awesome pickup! Would Love to own one!

Cooper · Postby **Cooper** » September 7th, 2012, 6:17 pm

trinibajan34 wrote:what body oil alyuh using in rear diff fellas with 4x4

API Service GL-6 SAE 90 (for limited slip differentials)

That's straight from the Owners Manual. It may be difficult to get the GL-6, but I was told I can still use the GL-5 even though it's recommended for non-limited slip diffs.

civic minded · Postby **civic minded** » September 7th, 2012, 6:36 pm

Cooper, are you still servicing in the firm? got any warranty claims yet? I had two - Had to change the seals for the injectors and change the EGR sensor.

civic minded · Postby **civic minded** » September 10th, 2012, 4:33 pm

So after hitting 80K on my 3.0L ranger, over a span of 3 years. I have stick with the firm for maintenance even after alot of advice not to.

The following parts was changed since i got it.

I did regular service intervals of 10K. Changed Oil and filters. At 50K I have changed transmission oil, differential oil. When i reached 75K i was getting a strange hissing noise that sounded like my fan belt gotton slack. On checking with the firm - i found out that it was one of the injector seals that ruptured.
The Firm had changed this for me. I didn't have to pay as it was a warranty item. When I left the firm. I started to notice the engine check light was coming on and off. So back to the firm - they determined it was the EGR sensor. I had to wait almost 2 weeks to get this rectified as they didn't have instock. It was changed last week and again no cost to me.
I had just changed the battery as well - i went with the OEM ford motorcraft battery - cost me 1550dollars with 36 months warranty.

Amazing part is that i still have a nice kickdown and the van still want to run like the day i bought it!

I have about 20K service left before the warranty expires but all in all - i am still very happy with my purchase and would go back and buy another Ranger when i am ready to sell mines.

Cooper · Postby **Cooper** » September 11th, 2012, 8:50 am

I'm not doing regular servicing at the firm as I have the service manual and most of the tools necessary to perform the basic work.... and it saves me some money in the log run. Actually I serviced all the vehicles my family owned before I purchased my truck and the only new tool I had to get after purchasing the truck was a grease-gun. If I have to perform any work that involves moving heavy components, I'll go to the firm.

I work mostly from home now so I don't do a lot of driving...only recently crossed 40,000Kms (and only now looking around for new tires.) I've had no major issues because I have been following the service intervals in the manual....and also depended on info on this forum for troubleshooting any minor problems.

The only significant thing that has happened was a failed glow plug that I discovered a couple weeks ago. Followed the troubleshooting guide I posted in another thread (which I pulled from the service manual) and discovered that the #3 plug is dead. The firm has none in stock and some of the quotes I've gotten so far have been a bit expensive.

talibanz · Postby **talibanz** » September 11th, 2012, 1:24 pm

Why are most Ford ranger cylinder heads giving trouble?
Is this a defect with them. I have heard and know so many ford owners having to change there cylinder heads.
Can anybody help with this situation?

dime · Postby **dime** » September 11th, 2012, 3:07 pm

Can anyone tell me where to get a workshop manual for the 2007 Ford Ranger, 2.5l, Automatic, 4x4. The 4L light is staying on. The scan done by the mechanic shows a faulty EGR sensor but does not show anything on the 4x4 system.
This has also affected the speedometer, not showing the correct speed if at all.

Any help would be appreciated.

lighthammer · Postby **lighthammer** » September 12th, 2012, 12:33 am

talibanz wrote:Why are most Ford ranger cylinder heads giving trouble?
Is this a defect with them. I have heard and know so many ford owners having to change there cylinder heads.
Can anybody help with this situation?

Manufacturing defect, known defect in the WLT heads since 2005 onwards.
Most people discover the crack too late and end up having to spend up to $6000-$7000 on a new head and/or head and block.

Problem is due to poor maintenance or lack of proper maintenance of the cooling system - need to keep an eye on critical components like the thermostat, keep the radiator flushed/clean regularly, use proper coolant, check clutch fan & fan fluid regularly.

Again, most ppl think the ranger/b2500 could take real jammin', and neglect to maintian the truck properly (common mistake among diesel owners) and then want to cry when the inevitable happens.

Best thing to do is immediately go through your entire cooling system, and check your fan/thermostat right away. Then pressure test your head to make sure your ranger hasn't become a crack-head.

dime wrote:Can anyone tell me where to get a workshop manual for the 2007 Ford Ranger, 2.5l, Automatic, 4x4. The 4L light is staying on. The scan done by the mechanic shows a faulty EGR sensor but does not show anything on the 4x4 system.
This has also affected the speedometer, not showing the correct speed if at all.

Any help would be appreciated.

Most common cause of 4wd sticking is due to vaccuum lines being either stuck or popped off the actuator. Go under the truck and check near the center diff to see if any lines/hoses are loose.

I'd advise that you don't run the truck while in 4wd - running the diffs on hard, high-traction surfaces will stress out the diffs and cause driveline binding - basically your differentials are designed to slip a little bit when driving on a loose surface in 4wd. If there's too much traction, the differentials will start to wind up and bind, and this can even cause the gears to break and shatter!!

So take it easy, if you can't drive the vehicle in 2wd, then best thing to do is stop and tow the truck home on a flatbed....... it's either that or have to go buy a new set of gears and possibly axles too (might strip out the splines!)