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Tech Thread - Nissan Frontier, Navara, Pathfinder.

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Tech Thread - Nissan Frontier, Navara, Pathfinder.

Postby biggy82 » March 9th, 2009, 4:33 pm

ok peeps, post whatever good info you have on the Navara....most importantly, what problems you all have had and solutions.

Here is some basic maintenance info:

Engine Oil: Grade API-CF4 / ACEA B1, B3, B4, B5. do not use API-CG4. Volume required 7.6 L. API are not using the CF4 grading system again because the test is no longer available. CH4 is the recommended substitute. Viscosity 15W-40
Oil change interval 5000 kms mineral oil; 7500 - 10000 kms synthetic

Brake and Clutch Fluid: Grade DOT 3 or 4. Change interval 1 year or 20000 kms

Coolant: Grade Nissan coolant L250. Volume 10.2 L. Change interval 20000 kms. coolant is pre-mixed

Manual Transmission: Grade API-GL4. Viscosity 75W-85 or 75W-90. Change interval 30000 kms. Volume required 2WD: 3.99 L; 4WD: 4.32 L

Automatic Transmission Fluid: Grade ATF Matic Fluid-J. Change interval 40000 kms. Volume required 10.3 L

Transfer Case fluid: Grade Nissan ATF. Volume required 2 L. Change interval 30000 kms

Differential Oil: Grade: Standard gear: GearOil Hypoid LSD or API-GL5.
LSD gear: GearOil Hypoid LSD
Viscosity 80W-90. Change interval 30000 kms
Volume required: Front diff: 0.85 L; Rear diff: 2.01 L

Power Steering fluid: Grade Genuine Nissan PSF or Dexron 3 ATF. Change interval 30000 kms

Multi-purpose grease: NLGI #2

Please note that the change intervals stated here may be different from what you may see your owner's manual. the intervals are shorter to compensate for our country's ambient temperatureand road conditions

please feel free to post whatever info you have

Table of Contents:

Fluid specs and volumes, basic maintenance info and diagnostics, 4WD, differential backlash: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=236360

squeaking chassis bolts: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=236360&start=30

reset service counter, injector pump ECU reset, primer pump issue when van is on a steep incline: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=236360&start=120

fault code list, manuals (D40): viewtopic.php?f=41&t=236360&start=270

more service manuals (D22 / D40): viewtopic.php?f=41&t=236360&start=390

injector issues: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=236360&start=420

body scratches and dents: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=236360&start=450

Nav problems: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=236360&start=510

full Nav specs: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=236360&start=540

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Last edited by biggy82 on November 8th, 2012, 9:57 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Postby biggy82 » March 10th, 2009, 2:55 pm

I have had problems with my fuel system. it was at a well-known gas station close to a Major car Retailer which amplified my concerns per how sad the situation was :mrgreen:. i filled my tank my tank there and before it reached 3/4 tank, the van was bucking, heavy white smoke, no power etc.

had to drain and flush tank, pull and clean fuel rail, injectors and both primary and secondary filters. it did not affect the pump tho. total cost $2500

i have since installed this: http://www.algae-x.net/2/5/Fuel%20Conditioners.html

basically, it breaks up any agglomeration in the diesel so that it does not clog the filters or the injectors. plus it disperses water. i strongly recommend that this be installed in the Navara because the CR is very sensitive to bad diesel

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Postby Greypatch » March 11th, 2009, 11:50 am

Excellent start !!...

May I suggest you include the brands that are working for you with respect to the oil and brake fluids.


Members feel free to post questions and experiences (with fixes) so that we can all learn and not reinvent the wheel.
Last edited by Greypatch on March 18th, 2009, 3:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby bleedingfreak » March 11th, 2009, 3:41 pm

Kudos to the Nissan Men. Allyuh really need this thread ;-) Hahahaha

Just kidding...

Biggy what is your mileage now?
And are you going to try out the Mobil1 Full Synthetic?
And why not use API-CG4 rated oils?

Patchie yuh get your van yet?

Navs seem to be the most susceptible to bad diesel...

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Postby Greypatch » March 11th, 2009, 4:54 pm

So Navaras are most prone to bad diesel...

Didthe water light come on ?

Besides Neal and Massey who else offers the Alge-X and price range...

We want to make the thread as informative as possible...

New Navara Owners (Junki, Aaron & others) Any problems with the fuel so far ?

have you all installed the Alge-X ?
Last edited by Greypatch on March 18th, 2009, 3:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Postby biggy82 » March 12th, 2009, 1:24 am

bleedingfreak wrote:Biggy what is your mileage now? 20500 kms
And are you going to try out the Mobil1 Full Synthetic? i may do so, since it is suppossed to exceed CH4 spec http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/ ... _5W-40.asp
And why not use API-CG4 rated oils? not sure...it is specifically stated in the owner's manual. need to do some more research on that


Greypatch wrote:Biggy did the water light come on ? nope...sedimentor light stayed off

Also Besides Neal and Massey who else offers the Alge-X and price range... i know for sure Achievors has them....price range $1800 - $2200 installed

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Postby biggy82 » March 12th, 2009, 10:26 am

Fire_Fighter786 wrote:Biggy why is the Mobil 1 better or preferred over the Amsoil full syth?

i would not say it is preferred over the Amsoil. in fact, i would like to try this: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx

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Postby biggy82 » March 17th, 2009, 3:58 am

Taken from the maintenance manual

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

General maintenance includes those items which should be checked during the normal day-to-day operation of the vehicle. They are essential if the vehicle is to continue operating properly. The owners can perform the checks and inspections themselves or they can have their NISSAN dealers do them for a nominal charge.

OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE
The maintenance items listed here should be performed from time to time, unless otherwise specified.

Tires: Check the pressure with a gauge periodically when at a service station, including the spare, and adjust to the specified pressure if necessary. Check carefully for damage, cuts or excessive wear.

Windshield wiper blades: Check for cracks or wear if not functioning correctly.

Doors and engine hood: Check that all doors, the engine hood, the trunk lid and back door operate properly. Also ensure that all latches lock securely. Lubricate if necessary. Make sure that the secondary latch keeps the hood from opening when the primary latch is released.
When driving in areas using road salt or other corrosive materials, check for lubrication frequently.

Tire rotation: Tires should be rotated every 10,000 km (6,000 miles) for 2WD models and every 5,000 km (3,000 miles) for 4WD models.

INSIDE THE VEHICLE
The maintenance items listed here should be checked on a regular basis, such as when performing periodic maintenance, cleaning the vehicle, etc.

Lamps: Make sure that the headlamps, stop lamps, tail lamps, turn signal lamps, and other lamps are all operating properly and installed securely. Also check headlamp aim.

Warning lamps and chimes: Make sure that all warning lamps and buzzers/chimes are operating properly.

Steering wheel: Check that it has the specified play. Check for changes in the steering conditions, such as excessive free play, hard steering or strange noises.
Free play: Less than 35 mm (1.38 in)

Seat belts: Check that all parts of the seat belt system (e.g. buckles, anchors, adjusters and retractors) operate properly and smoothly, and are installed securely. Check the belt webbing for cuts, fraying, wear or damage.

UNDER THE HOOD AND VEHICLE
The maintenance items listed here should be checked periodically e.g. each time you check the engine oil or refuel.

Windshield washer fluid: Check that there is adequate fluid in the tank.

Engine coolant level: Check the coolant level when the engine is cold.

Engine oil level: Check the level after parking the vehicle (on level ground) and turning off the engine.

Brake and clutch fluid levels: Make sure that the brake and clutch fluid levels are between the “MAXâ€

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Postby Greypatch » March 18th, 2009, 3:09 pm

SNIPER 3000 wrote:DRIVER
ENERGY EFFICIENCY
TIPS


DIESEL ENGINE
DIAGNOSTICS

Most diesel engine problems are related to the injection system. As such diagnosing diesel engine problems requires knowledge of engine and injection system operation.



This brochure provides you with the guideline to troubleshoot various diesel engine and injection system problems.

DIESEL ENGINE DIAGNOSTICS
Diesel engine problems that are most frequently encountered may be identified as follows

1. Excessive Exhaust Smoke

2. Engine Knocking

3. Engine Missing

4. Hard Starting

5. Lack of Power

6. Poor Fuel Efficiency

7. Fuel Leaks

8. Clogged Fuel Filters

These potential problems are briefly discussed below.


1. EXCESSIVE EXHAUST SMOKE
Excessive diesel smoke is due to incomplete combustion, normally caused by faulty injection system or other engine troubles. A small amount of exhaust smoke is normal during initial start-up or rapid acceleration.


Type of Smoke
Abnormal Exhaust smoke may be black, white or blue. Each type of smoke indicates engine problems and these are discussed below:


Black Smoke
Excessive black smoke is caused by a rich air-fuel mixture. This may result form problems with the injection pump or infection timing, which may in turn be clue to a choked air cleaner, worn fuel injectors, adulterated diesel fuel or the engine itself.


White Smoke
White smoke occurs mainly during cold starts, when the fuel tends to condense into liquid and does not burn due to cold engine parts. The most common reason for white smoke are in-operative glow plugs low engine compression, a bad injector spray pattern, late injection timing or injection pump problems.


Blue Smoke
Excessive blue smoke indicates problems from low engine compression and/or worn piston rings, scored cylinder walls or leaking valve stem seals The blue smoke is caused by crankcase oil entering the combustion chamber and being emitted after partial combustion through the exhaust


2. ENGINE KNOCKING
All diesel engines produce a "knocking" sound when running. In a diesel engine fuel ignites when infected into the combustion chamber. This rapid combustion produces very high pressures generating a rumble or dull clattering sound Abnormally loud "knocking" may be due to diesel engine miss.


3. ENGINE MISSING
A diesel engine miss results from one or more cylinders not burning fuel properly. This is caused by injection system problems which include:

Faulty injectors
Clogged fuel filters
Incorrect injection timing
Low engine compression
Injection system leaks •
Air leaks
Faulty injection pump


4. HARD STARTING
If diesel engine does not start it may be due to:

In-operative glow plugs
Restricted air or fuel flow
Bad fuel flow solenoid
Contaminated fuel
Injection pump problem
Low battery power

A slow cranking speed is a common cause for starting problem. Being a compression ignition engine, a diesel engine must crank fast enough to produce sufficient heat for combustion


5. LACK OF POWER
·Lack of engine power may be caused by

Slack throttle cables

Incorrect governor settings

Clogged fuel filters

Dirty air fillers

Low engine compression

Other factors affecting combustion


6. POOR FUEL ECONOMY
Poor fuel economy may be due to:

Fuel leak ·

Dirty air filter

Corrected injection timing

Leaking injectors


7. FUEL LEAKS
Leaking fuel lines or loose connections can adversely affect the performance of a diesel engine Pinpointing exact locations of fuel leak become much more easier when the engine is on Since fuel is injected at high pressure extra care must be taken as the leaking fuel can cause serious injury

If signs of fuel leakage are detected use a piece of cardboard to find the leak, move the cardboard around each fitting If there is a serious leak, it will strike the cardboard and not your hand, thereby avoiding serious injury to your hand


8. CLOGGED FUEL FILTERS
Other than the main filter installed in the fuel line for draining water, diesels have sock filters fitted in the fuel tank and some times in the injector assembly as shown below For optimum performance these filters must be kept clean.



DIESEL TESTS
Diesel Compression Test
Diesel engine compression test is similar to compression test for petrol engine. In diesels compression pressures are in the range of 3,000/ 4,500 psi Readings in each cylinder should be in the range of 50 to 75 psi of each other


Cylinder-Not-Firing Test
The resistance of each glow plug increases as the cylinders fire A no change in the resistance of any particular cylinder's flow plug will show that the cylinder in NOT firing. Pyrometer, a temperature sensing device can be used to detect temperatures at exhaust of each cylinder to confirm the NOT firing cylinder.


Injection Pressure Test
An injection pressure test uses special valves and high pressure gauge to test the following

Injector opening pressure

Injector nozzle leakage

Injection line pressure balance

Injection pump condition

Due to the versatility of this tester it helps in quickly locating bad nozzle, clogged injector filter or faulting pump.



DIESEL INJECTOR SERVICE
Most diesel engine problems are associated with the injection system Major injector system components have been discussed in driver energy tips No. 4 titled "Understanding and Maintaining Diesel Vehicles" In the following section information is provided on the proper functional characteristics of the diesel injector


Injector Opening Pressure
Typical diesel injector opening pressure is approximately 1,700 to 2,000 psi (pound per square inch) of opening pressure is not within service manual specifications, rebuild or replace the injector.


Injector Spray Pattern
Some diesel injectors make chattering sound during operation while others do not. However, all nozzles should make a swishing or pinging sound when spraying fuel.

There should be a narrow, cone shaped mist of fluid. A solid stream of fuel, uneven spray, excessively wide spray or spray filled with solid droplets indicates that the injector needs service and or replacement.


DIESEL INJECTION SERVICE TIPS

Wear safety glasses when working on a diesel injection system.

When in doubt, refer to a service manual for the make of vehicle being serviced. The slightest mistake could upset engine performance or cause engine damage.

Always cap lines or plug fuel end fittings to prevent entry of foreign matter.

Never drop a diesel injector or injection pump. They can be damaged.

Remember that high pressure inside a diesel injection system can cause serious injury.

Some diesel injection systems must be bled (air removed) after repairs.

Clean around fittings before they are disconnected.

Adhere to all torque specifications. This is extremely all the more important on a diesel engine.

Never use a bent, frayed, or kinked injection.
Last edited by Greypatch on March 19th, 2009, 9:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby originalbling » March 18th, 2009, 8:19 pm

I am guessing that the Navaras are too new on the local market to hear about problems under local conditions or maybe even manufacturers defects with the models we get here?

If so then can anyone say what parts would normally need to be changed due to normal wear and tear/maintenance intervals and possible estimated prices?

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Postby navara boy » March 19th, 2009, 9:47 pm

so does the algea x work great and where on the van does it have to be installed

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Postby navara boy » March 19th, 2009, 9:52 pm

wat i wanted to know is the amsoil oil good for the navara and if what grade is good in full synthetic and wats the cost

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Postby GEAR_HEAD » March 19th, 2009, 10:47 pm

^^^All Navara specific lubricants available in the AMSOIL brand. For more information & pricing please check - http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/vie ... p?t=230746
:wink:

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Postby 4X4 Trinidad » March 20th, 2009, 6:12 am

Any one needing ALGEA-X , we are the official dealers in Trinidad for the Product .

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Postby Greypatch » March 20th, 2009, 6:30 am

4X4 Trinidad wrote:Any one needing ALGEA-X , we are the official dealers in Trinidad for the Product .



4 x 4 does massey buy the product from your company ?

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Postby navara boy » March 20th, 2009, 7:12 pm

so biggy the amsoil is good but which grade can i use i am going to do a 10000 change soon and i want a full synthetic and it's availability must be good too.

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Postby biggy82 » March 20th, 2009, 10:29 pm

navara boy wrote:so biggy the amsoil is good but which grade can i use i am going to do a 10000 change soon and i want a full synthetic and it's availability must be good too.


biggy82 wrote:
Fire_Fighter786 wrote:Biggy why is the Mobil 1 better or preferred over the Amsoil full syth?

i would not say it is preferred over the Amsoil. in fact, i would like to try this: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx

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Postby 4X4 Trinidad » March 20th, 2009, 11:03 pm

Greypatch wrote:
4X4 Trinidad wrote:Any one needing ALGEA-X , we are the official dealers in Trinidad for the Product .



4 x 4 does massey buy the product from your company ?



They were initially the dealers, however we took over the dealership.

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Postby biggy82 » March 28th, 2009, 1:51 am

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If you own a vehicle with part time 4WD the need for different rpm front and rear represents a major problem. The transfer case will power the front and rear drive shafts with same rpm and is not able to satisfy the front axle's need for more rpm. Remember, the combined rpm of front wheels (A+B) is higher than the combined rpm of the rear wheels (C+D). Only full time 4WD systems are able to negotiate the needs of front and rear.

So, with part time 4WD engaged your front wheels are forced by good traction on the ground to rotate faster than the rear - but since the front drive shaft delivers only the same rpm as to the rear there is a fight between front wheels and rational force coming from the front drive shaft. The front drive shaft in effect tries to slow down the front wheels. This results in very wide turns (understeer) and dangerous handling on pavement.

The name "part time" derives from its use. It can only be used part of the time - most of the time (for most uses) it has to remain in 2WD. Only "full time" - notice the name - can be used full time for all uses.

The fight between front wheels and transfer case also makes 4WD performance suffer - the front wheels are not pulling like they should. They are in effect hindered by the front drive shaft.

The slowing effect caused by front wheels stresses all components between wheels and the transmission. It causes mechanical components to bind instead of moving freely - this situation is called "axle binding" ,"driveline binding" or "driveline wind up". First indicators while driving is a hard steering feel and the vehicle displaying jerky movement. Shifting back to 2WD will become impossible (gears and levers are extremely forced together). Continued 4WD use on dry surfaces will cause the weakest links to break (U-Joints, axles, differential gears, transfer case gears and chains, bearings, drive shafts).

When starting from a standstill with sharply turned wheels: The need for higher rpm in the front will most likely prevent you from getting started at all. If you step on the gas really hard (plus slipping your clutch) you might get the vehicle moving with spinning rear wheels but stress on all driveline components will be dangerously high. Chance is that you will break something.

When traveling with part time 4WD on high traction surfaces like asphalt, concrete, etc. handling of the vehicle will become unsafe (understeer) and the "driveline binding" will eventually cause component failures. Part time 4WD should not be used on high traction surfaces! Even when going straight most of the time, slight differences in tire pressure front to rear or vehicle load resulting in different axle speeds will cause "wind up" and eventually damage.

When traveling with part time 4WD on low traction surfaces like sand, gravel, mud, snow, etc. handling of the vehicle is unsafe (understeer) as well, but not as severe as on pavement. The slowed down front wheels simply skid a little on gravel, sand, snow, etc. during a turn. This in mind you should always approach difficult off-road obstacles in a straight line otherwise you might lose some of the much needed traction due to wheel slip on your front wheels.

Do not listen to guys who tell you it is OK to use part time 4WD on pavement! Severe damage will be the result.

Here is another important fact: Since front and rear axles are not able to rotate independently ABS will not work properly.

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Postby badart » March 28th, 2009, 8:17 pm

^ good info,,,where;s a good place to use 4WD..somewhere not far?...i never really use my 4WD....jus test it out in a savannah

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Postby biggy82 » March 29th, 2009, 1:49 am

badart, wherever there is a low traction surface ie. sand, mud, loose gravel.

a savannah after moderate rainfall sounds like a plan

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Postby Greypatch » April 9th, 2009, 8:00 pm

Question.

Has any navara owners have a problem with the dif backlash when stopping ?

I have heard this may be a problem.

Kinda feels like someone hit u from de back.

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Postby biggy82 » April 10th, 2009, 2:24 am

yes Patchie, I have had it.

its basically the tranny trying to engage the diff when it downshifts into first gear (ie. when you come to a complete stop)

funny enough, it happens more often when sitting on the 22s rather than the stock 16s. i think that the angle of the diff has something to do with it

nothing to worry about, once the techs confirm that the diff play is within manuf. specs

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Postby Greypatch » April 10th, 2009, 7:17 am

When I did the test drives (4x2) I did not feel anything.


Is it restricted to the 4x4 ?
Last edited by Greypatch on April 11th, 2009, 6:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby Aaron 2NR » April 11th, 2009, 9:46 am

nope all models feel it....

next time u take a drive just be observant and ull see

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Postby Greypatch » April 11th, 2009, 6:11 pm

can it be corrected

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Postby biggy82 » April 12th, 2009, 12:09 pm

nope, but once the diff play within manuf. specs, it is no bother

i havent felt mine in ages

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Postby robbieg » April 12th, 2009, 3:50 pm

what is diff backlash?

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Postby biggy82 » April 13th, 2009, 12:25 pm

it is when you come to a complete stop and the tranny auto selects 1st gear. the tranny engages the diff in preparation to move the vehicle forward
Greypatch wrote:Kinda feels like someone hit u from de back.

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Postby sweeks » April 13th, 2009, 7:30 pm

Good info here fellas .... keep it coming ...

It seems as if the automatic ranger has a similar problem when using over sized rims.

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