Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
Parts are readily available for the L200 not that it's really needed I've had my Sportero for 7 years and so far no major issues I have only done normal servicing and changed recommended based on the service manual. To date suspension has no issues even though I do minor off roading with it. Only issue so far is the paint on the trim of the door handles inside have worn out.civic minded wrote:everyone i talked too , telling me the same thing - buying a L200 - parts hard to find, and expensive. But tell me if i am wrong but isnt the L200 parts more accessible in the bamboo cause its japanese??When i had my ranger i bought the oem parts from Roc and i always saw advertised the Sportero..is it that the Sportero parts different to the L200 - parts i am reffering to are like Clutch plate, bushings, sensors and oil change stuff like filters etc.??
m and r imports wrote:Morning folks where Can I get the two flexible brake lines for the rear of the L200 sportero, they are about 15inches each with two female ends
Avion wrote:Anyone with a suction control valve for the 4m41?
it ugly.. the l200 jus ugly.. but i aint see anyone say if it have any faultscivic minded wrote:My mind is really torn between the L200 and the NP300 - i think the L200 is superior in terms of ruggedness and durability but i could be wrong
ansa gonna say . not our modelsdyne wrote:Some of you Sportero Owners should take a read if you have not already had this problem.
http://www.caradvice.com.au/253604/mits ... eat-fault/
diesel not cheap againvenum wrote:streetbeastINC. wrote:Nah bamboo marketing has non...always wanted to know if a qd32 would line upmwith 4wd juat in case..lol
Dude, diesel cheap eh, imma hadda come up grande and put 2 tap on you for them kinda thoughtstr1ad wrote:@venum, any advice for Trouble Code P6028?
sorry, I never came across that code in mine.
305-9900 call the Dr.
i used to have that in my mazda bt50 09 model.. better throttle response n sound for surebrandonology1 wrote:hey guys, so i swapped out the stock air filter on my n/a 4d56 in my k34 to a k&n double cone filter... It gave a noticeable increase in power and sounds much heavier ... however, i have been getting mixed views about this mod... ne1 will to share some valuable insight?
a trick i learn from the mechanics .well mine is mazda bt50. but from watching your pics .it should work . empty d filter..leave it on d bracket. flip it over n screw back upside down with one screw n then loosen the filter ..that way . no one has to hold it for uAllTrac wrote:did my bimonthly fuel filter change today, took some pics, here is the write up for those interested. Took me roughly about 15-20mins.
Make sure vehicle is off, get a 12 socket, flat head and filter wrench.
1) Remove both rubber fuel hoses
expect some diesel spillage, keep a cloth close by.
2) Unplug the water sensor clips. The first white clip in the pic, i use a small flat head and gently press it down and pull the plug out, for the second black clip in the pics, its a lift type, so i gently lift the lever up and pull the plug out, dont lift or press to hard as they break easily.
3) Get your 12 socket or spanner and crack those 2 nuts on the housing the holds down the pump, then lift it out, the pump and the filter should come out completely.
4)Now those that are not refilling the new filter to the top with the Amsoil diesel concentrate, you should have a clean container to pour out the diesel fuel from the old filter to reuse in the new filter, I normally refill to the top with red line so i just tilt the return line a bit and drain out the old diesel fuel stored in the filter. When thats done, here comes the pain in the ass part. If you dont have a vice grip or something sturdy to hold the pump or filter you gonna catch royal ass to open the water seperator cover at the bottom and to unscrew the fuel filter from the fuel pump. First time with my first diesel vehicle, I didnt have a vice grip so I got my brother to hold on to it while i tried to unscrew it, we cursed and cried and ripped our skin and swore never to do this without the right tools, we finally got it open lol. My dad ran a flat head straight through the old filter and we unscrewed it like opening a tap lol. Its only difficult because mechanics use tools to tighten it and dont add oil plus most people change their diesel filters every 6 to 8 months so it kindda seizes. Anyway a month after I got a vice grip and it was smooth from there on out. Or do like my neighbor and screw it back down to a work bench and crack it open.
5) Now unscrew the filter from the fuel pump
6) new filter time, pic below is the filter i have been using and some of the tools I use to unscrew the water separator and the fuel filter
7) The new filter comes with a new replacement rubber ring for the water separator, remove the old one and replace with new, and screw it back into the new filter, hand tighten, put some muscle into it.
Next, my own procedure, no need to follow. I full it right up with only the best diesel concentrate money can buy, Amsoil baby others might prefer to refill with the diesel fuel you drained earlier from the old filter.
9) Add some oil to the rubber ring seal, NOT A LOT, just a slight skim over the entire rubber. I just put like 2 drops from the cover and use my index finger to rub it around
10) Finally screw on back the fuel pump (hand tighten), reinstall (2 12 nuts, white clip, black clip and 2 rubber hoses).
They start priming the pump (pumping, see second pic), I pump it till it gets hard, normally a little over 100 pumps, dont worry, it goes by quickly. Then start her up, might need to hold a slightly higher rev for a bit, no need to rev it out. Once the idle settles in, check your install for leaks. Thats it.
Changing the Fuel filter on the triton is pretty easy and straight forward. Changing the filter on my hilux sr5 was a pain in the ass, so doing it bi monthly on the triton is barely a hassle for me.
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