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2008 sportage diesel

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TeamH2O
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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby TeamH2O » June 30th, 2017, 7:17 pm

Finished, started, misfiring due to one of the fuel lines from pump to rail damaged.....pry bar hit it by mistake.....but im happy no water is bubbling in bottle.....so its to fix that line and test it out!

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby SNIPER 3000 » July 2nd, 2017, 12:11 pm

Wonder how these will hold up in flood Waters if the need arises. Considering a snokle kit..drove through some waters crossing the bonnet recently, with a frontier... held up very well.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby TeamH2O » July 2nd, 2017, 8:51 pm

I need an injector....one of mines aint working, I dunno why everything this engine had to do something, an injector dies.....

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby nutty4u2c » July 11th, 2017, 11:53 pm

Well I'm Up An Running. I will give the Full Report Later.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Joshie23 » July 13th, 2017, 8:32 am

Glad to hear Nutty, fellas I'm looking to do a little DIY project this weekend..drove through some flood water over the past few weeks plus the age of the vehicle, I'm not sure if the tank was ever cleaned..looking to drop the fuel tank, clean it out, replace my front and back diff fluids and do a PS flush..I'm approaching 100k so I want to do a transmission flush as well but I don't think I can do a complete fluid replacement in one go by myself, nevertheless I'm looking for any pointers or tips to assist in my venture..the diff fluids are easy..maybe even the PS but the fuel tank clean out..any advice? Much appreciated.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby ADONI » July 13th, 2017, 9:52 am

Boi, I open my back diff fill plug the other day and push in a straw. The oil was golden as new and that was around 140K. I tried my transfer case fill plug but, it is a hex for the fill, which is real stress to open... I didn't get through with that, I will leave it for the mechanic. When you drain the tranny about 5 quarts drain from the pan. Also, leaving the power steering for the mechanic and well fuel tank I eh touching, since fuel system does mess up for me when it interfered with.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Joshie23 » July 13th, 2017, 10:53 am

Well as I said, with the recent rains, I ended up passing through some high water (over my wheel all kinda thing) so since the fluids for diff and TC (thanks for the correction) aren't that expensive I'd just replace one time. The hex bolt is a 10mm one so I'd just have to use a 'snipe' or even my powerbar on it if anything.

As for the tank, all I'm doing is taking off the back half of the exhaust to allow for the tank to drop when the straps are removed, take out the back seat, disconnect the hoses going to the pumps, go under the van, disconnect the filler tube and voila, the tank should be out. Online they say you can wash it out with soap and water and since our pumps can come off, access to better see inside the tanks should be easier. Wash out all the sludge and sediment from the 11 years of Trinidad diesel, let it dry out and mount back up. I'll try to do a step by step when I'm doing mine. I'm thinking about running through the supply and return lines with a good injector cleaner afterwards to clean them out or I might just go by Big Z..

For the PS, Chris Fix on YouTube has an excellent tutorial on how to do a complete flush and there's also one right here on 2NR and for the tranny, if you say 5 qts leave with the drain bolt removed, it holds 7.8 qts so should I drain and refill myself or do a complete flush out..I think Ryotech on the forum does the service for about $250 if I remember correctly..

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Joshie23 » July 14th, 2017, 9:16 am

747 TECHNOLOGIES wrote:I need an injector....one of mines aint working, I dunno why everything this engine had to do something, an injector dies.....


747, I know you're more mechanically inclined than myself..what say you about my ventures?

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby TeamH2O » July 14th, 2017, 1:25 pm

Soak it with some gas for an hour then empty then use soap and water to clean the gassy remains off then rinse with diesel or a diesel cleaner. Should put it in a way it can completely drain

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Joshie23 » July 15th, 2017, 1:05 am

747 TECHNOLOGIES wrote:Soak it with some gas for an hour then empty then use soap and water to clean the gassy remains off then rinse with diesel or a diesel cleaner. Should put it in a way it can completely drain


Thanks 747, I only realised this evening that I'd have to remove the driveshaft..not sure if I have that belly but everything else is already down..lawd..

EDIT: Couldn't get the driveshaft down..had everything out, tank ready to be removed, but the bloody driveshaft is in the way so mounting back up the tank, as is.. :roll:

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby SNIPER 3000 » July 15th, 2017, 7:26 pm

Now seeing this, Joshie. I did the tranny flush, drain the sump, pour fresh oil, removed the return hose from the radiator to the tranny and placed in a bucket, started the engine with tranny in neutral. When I saw fresh oil coming I stopped and filling the sump again. It took just under 8 quarts.

I would replace the diff oils and fuel and are filter after passing through the flood waters. I would not remove the fuel tank....would not trouble trouble. Is there an opening under the seats? If there is one may be you can open the drain and flush from the top?

Did you change the thermostat yet?

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Joshie23 » July 16th, 2017, 5:37 am

SNIPER 3000 wrote:Now seeing this, Joshie. I did the tranny flush, drain the sump, pour fresh oil, removed the return hose from the radiator to the tranny and placed in a bucket, started the engine with tranny in neutral. When I saw fresh oil coming I stopped and filling the sump again. It took just under 8 quarts.

I read about this method but I ended up dumping from the sump instead..just about 4 qts. So I'll drain again in about two weeks and replace the amount that I took out and I should be good.

I would replace the diff oils and fuel and are filter after passing through the flood waters. I would not remove the fuel tank....would not trouble trouble. Is there an opening under the seats? If there is one may be you can open the drain and flush from the top?

Got through with the back diff..not the the TC though, the hex fill bolt was slightly rounded so I don't know if the previous owner changed the fluid and messed it up..the colour was nasty though. Flushed the PS as well.

Did you change the thermostat yet?

Yes I changed the thermostat last year when I changed the timing belt and associated components, but the idiots didn't put back a gasket on the thermostat housing so I cut and made one for myself and apparently they torqued the nut too much because the stud (on the right side) has half LH threading and half RH, with one part to screw into the block and lock, with the opposing side to screw down the nut to hold down the thermostat housing, but the hole on the block has been widened too much through overtightening so there's a slight leak of coolant. I'll have to go by a welder to let them put a weld under the stud to lock it and weld a new nut onto the damaged TC fill bolt.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby TeamH2O » July 17th, 2017, 12:07 pm

Driveshaft is a paint to come out but not hard, u just have to use two spanners to lock one bolt and turn the other, also u need to spray wd40 and soak it first, and use a backing spanner on the one you are turning for extra leverage

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby ADONI » July 18th, 2017, 1:51 pm

konartis wrote:Hello, what's the avge cost on a power steering rack for the 08 sportage?


I called Constant Velocity in South. $3,700 to rebuild and $1,800 to take off and put on. Six months warranty. If your mechanic do the take off and put on to get away from their $1,800, then is 3 months warranty.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Ted_v2 » July 20th, 2017, 8:39 pm

You think that's a bad price?

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby ADONI » July 21st, 2017, 8:06 am

Boi, well I called Car City, $3,000 FU and $6,000 new.
M&N had a aftermarket for $6,000 and one they bought from Massy for $8,000.
Both options, you will still need to cater for installing.
The thing is Hyundai has a PS rebuild kit for US$33 from Korea I can buy... But, is to get someone to rebuild the PS.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Joshie23 » July 21st, 2017, 10:28 am

Men talking about leaving 2NR because of lack of innovation and what not but let me big up all the tuners who share their technical expertise, part prices, etc., in these kinds of threads..we help each other save a great deal of money and sometimes even stress. Big up, 2NR massive.

747 TECHNOLOGIES wrote:Driveshaft is a paint to come out but not hard, u just have to use two spanners to lock one bolt and turn the other, also u need to spray wd40 and soak it first, and use a backing spanner on the one you are turning for extra leverage


Truth be told, I didn't raise the vehicle enough to get a powerful enough pull on the bolts, even though I did soak them prior to the attempted removal. The hex bolt for refilling the TC has been rounded out slightly by the previous owner so I couldnt get it out, thankfully I didn't drain first :lol: Welding on an auxiliary nut is out of the question so I'll just get the next size up hex key and file it down on each side until it fits in my bolt.

Outside of that, diff fluid changed, transmission drained, got out 4 qts (I'll do a next drain in the next 5-7.5k and replace), oil and filter changed, fuel filter and defective water sensor changed and I loaded the filter with a half bottle of Liqui Moly Diesel Cleaner. Reading through the New Vehicle Thread and seeing how my DIY has saved me a lot of money in labour alone. Anyone know how to use the supply/return lines from the HP pump itself to purge/clean the injectors using the injector cleaner bottle?

I need original camber bolts for the left side, apparently the previous owner swapped them out for whatever reason and now my vehicle constantly needs cambering/aligning, as well as a Massy is out of stock (at $100 per bolt, mind you)..

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby ADONI » July 21st, 2017, 1:27 pm

Yea mon, yuh do the best thing by running liqui moly in the new filter. The water trap sensor forever breaking. I think I am on my third. Yea boi, always slacking the fill bolt first, I doh know y they couldn't put a regular flicking bolt, than that hex. Same sheit with the MAF, is torque security, put a dam Phillip head screw like everybody else.
My mechanic a time had tried the bottle purge from the line of the HP pump. It didn't work, I am guessing it could be because of the common rail system and requires pressure to work. So it might be like how the injector cleaner system works for gas maybe.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby SNIPER 3000 » July 22nd, 2017, 6:38 am

Adoni, look around and get a mechanic to rebuild the steering rack, just buy your original seal kit. Where did the rack start to leak from? Hope it's not a common.
For the chamber bolts you might get use ones at an alignment shop.
For the drain plug, I has a similar issue on a van, so I tacked a bolt on the hex and turned it out normal, no big welding just two tack on the sides and choose a bolt size to suite you and you good to go.

How often do you guys clean the MAF sensors? Which cleaner do you all use? I did mines over a year ago.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Joshie23 » July 22nd, 2017, 7:55 am

Tbh, YouTube videos and the advice from you all has boosted my confidence significantly in terms of DIY. There are things of course I have to go by a mechanic for but when I realized they're overcharging for certain things.. $1,800 to remove a steering rack..because you have a big name? Jah..

For the hex bolt, the welder said it would scorch the fluid so I'd have to drain the fluid but the engine would have to cool because the pressure and the heat from the welding could burst a hole or something plus hes not sure what material the bolt itself is..probably need to check another welder. For the camber bolts, the alignment guy I went by used back the ones on the vehicle and told me if I realise it went off again come back and he'd have to organise otherwise so we'll see.

I havent cleaned my MAF sensor yet.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby ADONI » July 24th, 2017, 9:08 am

I does clean MAF sensor every 8,000km when I clean my air filter. I use the CRC MAF sensor cleaner.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby oscar.pata » July 24th, 2017, 11:48 am

Hi
Does anyone know what the part name / part number is for the parts with the arrow in the photos? I have some fuel leaking from there and am looking to repair / replace. They are located just above the injectors in my 2008 sportage.

diesel01.jpg


diesel02.jpg

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby ADONI » July 24th, 2017, 1:13 pm

PN is 2245027003 Injector Cap Plug (PLUG ASSY-INJECTOR)
Massy have it for $150 for one earlier this year when I call.
Yea diesel does come out when the seal going.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby racedriverpro » July 24th, 2017, 1:53 pm

ADONI wrote:Yea mon, yuh do the best thing by running liqui moly in the new filter. The water trap sensor forever breaking. I think I am on my third. Yea boi, always slacking the fill bolt first, I doh know y they couldn't put a regular flicking bolt, than that hex. Same sheit with the MAF, is torque security, put a dam Phillip head screw like everybody else.
My mechanic a time had tried the bottle purge from the line of the HP pump. It didn't work, I am guessing it could be because of the common rail system and requires pressure to work. So it might be like how the injector cleaner system works for gas maybe.

Aphzal Mohammed Hardware, El Socorro for replacement bolts...

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby oscar.pata » July 24th, 2017, 3:11 pm

ADONI wrote:PN is 2245027003 Injector Cap Plug (PLUG ASSY-INJECTOR)
Massy have it for $150 for one earlier this year when I call.
Yea diesel does come out when the seal going.


Boss! Thank you for the info and PN!

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Joshie23 » August 6th, 2017, 9:49 pm

Hey guys, it's been quiet so I presume all is well with the D4EA's. Two questions; Factory Service/Workshop manuals. I'd like to buy one, but if anyone has it and their willing share with a brother no problem :lol: what I want to know is where are the best ones online. I'm seeing so many options and I don't want to waste money buying an inferior one. Has anyone purchased one that can vouch for it?

Secondly, I think my oil consumption is a bit on the high side. Two major contributors are either my rings are bad or I have a leaking injector, so I want to do a compression test to start the troubleshooting process. Does anyone know a reasonable place in south that does compression tests on diesel engines? I found out VMCOTT does them at $250. Anywhere else?

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby TeamH2O » August 6th, 2017, 11:10 pm

Back up and running, working nice and smooth.....Selling time!

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby ADONI » August 7th, 2017, 8:51 am

Joshie23 wrote:Secondly, I think my oil consumption is a bit on the high side. Two major contributors are either my rings are bad or I have a leaking injector, so I want to do a compression test to start the troubleshooting process. Does anyone know a reasonable place in south that does compression tests on diesel engines? I found out VMCOTT does them at $250. Anywhere else?


Woi, at what point you loosing oil? I would get a drop in oil at about 6,000km after the oil change. I would just top up and change oil every 8,000km. I was told I had some compression loss (diagnosing my hard start issue), but never black smoke, yet clocking 160km on the highway still.

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby ADONI » August 7th, 2017, 8:53 am

747 TECHNOLOGIES wrote:Back up and running, working nice and smooth.....Selling time!


Common rail fuh yuh! :mrgreen:

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Re: 2008 sportage diesel

Postby Joshie23 » August 7th, 2017, 10:27 am

ADONI wrote:
Joshie23 wrote:Secondly, I think my oil consumption is a bit on the high side. Two major contributors are either my rings are bad or I have a leaking injector, so I want to do a compression test to start the troubleshooting process. Does anyone know a reasonable place in south that does compression tests on diesel engines? I found out VMCOTT does them at $250. Anywhere else?


Woi, at what point you loosing oil? I would get a drop in oil at about 6,000km after the oil change. I would just top up and change oil every 8,000km. I was told I had some compression loss (diagnosing my hard start issue), but never black smoke, yet clocking 160km on the highway still.


Wow, nah I'm about 1,500km into this oil change and I've noticed maybe a half quart decrease. No black smoke (or any smoke, for that matter) at startup or when idling. Some smoke noticed when I press out to overtake or to build speed on the highway, but it clears up afterwards. So through my little research, I learned that either my rings could be bad (which would show up through more smoke) or I have cylinder washing through diesel leaking from a bad injector, diluting the oil, and causing it to evaporate, which is shown by smoke through the oil filler cap or dipstick when idling (which I have). I'm not sure where the PCV valve because this could be a symptom of a dirty or defective one **. I read that idling diesel engines for long periods is not good as it speeds up cylinder washing, but it's hard not to idle for kind of long periods especially when wifey alone has the vehicle and my little princess needs a bottle or diaper change.
**Edit - hence me looking for the workshop manual.

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