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tr1ad wrote:I'm seeing these at the 400k range
s-k-mo wrote:tr1ad wrote:I'm seeing these at the 400k range
Never heard of this! I wonder how durable these are. Also, that’s a lot of glass. Is it safe to have in Trinidad?
This is lovely!telfer wrote:ramorr wrote:Any links for greenheart wood for sale?
There is a place opposite the Chaguanas fire station I got from to build my front door
adnj wrote:You can try to sketch out the locations and connections of the major components of your supply: pump, shutoff valves, tanks, and check valves. That would be how to start.
You probably don't want to break into your supply line until it gets close to the location where it splits into point of entry and tank fill.
carluva wrote:How many block heights are you thinking of putting down?
Why though do you want to block up? From the picture, it seems ok.
If you are blocking up, consider two things as well:
1) Depending on where this is located, this could become a pit for vermin and other critters to potentially call their own.
2) You should raise all the piping and valves a bit higher so it becomes easier to operate once the perimeter is blocked up.
Other general suggestions:
3) Consider installing double check valves as a safety measure. I had an instance where a check valve on pump pump suction broke. On your mains you really don't want that to happen.
4) For that same reason, consider two unions, one upstream the valve assembly and the other downstream. This makes for easier replacement of any failed valves later on. If you choose to add filters, well this double union will likely be a high help.
5) Replace the 1/4 turn ball valves with gate valves. I had ball valves and after 6 years, the nut and handle became badly corroded and it was near impossible to operate the valve unless I used a pliers.
In consideration of those suggestions, you'll need more space to install everything including the filter, so maybe you'll have to look into digging down to find the lines to create more working room for all the fittings
carluva wrote:You do not seem to have enough room to cut the pipe and reroute 2 feet away, unless you can temporarily lock off the WASA mains valve to allow you to make that reroute connection.
Otherwise, you may have to look into installing the filter downstream the check valve at the next available point of entry into the premises (i.e. the close to the pump or the house).
Another option is to put your filter where it enters the house because it's likely that the line into the house or from the pump discharge will be another suitable location.
Question - why do you need a filter at the mains? You do know that this will get dirty really quickly and, if installed where there is sunlight, will likely get a build up of mildew and moss very quickly.
Oh yes... What is the other line with the ball valve about (the one on the right)?
maj. tom wrote:All those delicious trace minerals that some of your enzymes require to function.
Chromium, copper, fluoride, iodine, iron, manganese, molybdenum, selenium, and zinc.
All found in the micro dirt that WASA gives us (WASA mc btw).
For one thing, no animal on earth has ever evolved with a super-ultra filtered purified water source. Think about that.
carluva wrote:I do not have a filter to my house.
I have a filter on the fridge for the drinking water. And I have a Brita filter pitcher.
By me, yes there are sediments to deal with but a clean of water tanks every five years or so plus a yearly drain of a water heater tank ought to deal with sediments.
We have a mains bypass around our pump so if WASA pressure is higher than pump kick on pressure, we will get water from the mains. This only happens late at night or early in the morning. And I switch off my pump at night (as a safety precaution) so WASA pressure is always low (WASA mc for that too btw). The point is that most of my water would come from the tanks which would allow for some measure of settling of sediments before they make their way into the home.
For my purposes, a filter is a waste of time. An opaque filter housing, to me, and this is based purely on conjectural belief, may encourage bacterial growth and bacteria is something I'm not prepared to mess around with. I may be wrong, but that's just me....
Even if you choose to install a filter, after that union is very limited space and I doubt very much you can fit two elbows in there to facilitate the detour to the filter.
So if you insist, you may have to burst the floor, dig down, find the line and then plan your reroute to the filter so that the additional fittings can be easily accommodated.
carluva wrote:You do not seem to have enough room to cut the pipe and reroute 2 feet away, unless you can temporarily lock off the WASA mains valve to allow you to make that reroute connection.
Otherwise, you may have to look into installing the filter downstream the check valve at the next available point of entry into the premises (i.e. the close to the pump or the house).
Another option is to put your filter where it enters the house because it's likely that the line into the house or from the pump discharge will be another suitable location.
Question - why do you need a filter at the mains? You do know that this will get dirty really quickly and, if installed where there is sunlight, will likely get a build up of mildew and moss very quickly.
Oh yes... What is the other line with the ball valve about (the one on the right)?
carluva wrote:This is probably the wrong place to post, but I'll ask anyway.
Where can I get plastic barrels? Need a couple for water storage. Preferably those with the full diameter lid and not the ones with the two holes with plugs in them. And not the tapered ones with the screw top either. Basically something like what's in the picture minus the tap at the bottom.
What's an approximate price I can expect to pay for one?
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