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rx80 wrote:Hayden true but can you install a haltech with an auto transmission? What will be used to control the tranny with the stand alone?
The hardest thing to find for these engines is the gearbox and flywheel. Not to mention the price they go for. I ended up buying an emanage because I couldn't get the gearbox when I wanted. Can the greddy also use aftermarket sensors other than the 3bar map? Note I haven't installed the greddy yet.
rx80 wrote:^^^why would you want to do that? The JZ comes with an A340/A341 tranny which is very capable of holding 400hp with a higher stall converter and moderate driving. You can even get a shift kit from boost logic etc that can hold well over 800hp.
As for parts they are available you just have to know where to look. The JZs are very popular worldwide so parts easy to get.
Do some research buy and engine have it installed and running stock properly then go from there.
You can try supraforums.com a lot of advice there.
drunk24-7 wrote:Nak's.. Quick question... what are you planning on doing the JZ transplant into? Brakes and Suspension are going to a major consideration... I know i had a lot of problems with suspension and brakes, which were only rectified with VERY EXPENSIVE MODIFICATIONS.
Another thing as well... if yuh not accustomed to the power of these engines.... PLZ keep it stock and learn to handle it well. I went from a Datsun SR20DET to a daily driven 2jzgte, and believe me, with a little provocation, things got out of hand very easily, on a daily basis.
Parts wise... be prepared to make a lot of bamboo runs, a lot of phone calls to get parts and keep friends with those who have spare parts around. I spent a month hunting for an alternator. Those who had a spare around wanted 1500 at least to part with it. Aside from that, these engines are near bulletproof.
Anything else i left out?
rx80 wrote:Naka, Why not go with a RB? much easier to locate parts and much much more cheaper! Consider this a JZ R154 gearbox is around 8K or more with flywheel etc. while a RB can be aquired for 2500.
For JZ advice check these sites.
rx80 wrote:drunk24-7, Great advice!!
Naka, Take heed to what was said and be sure to plan the project before jumping into it. My advice is to sort out the suspension in the car first, then brakes a good diff and then look at the engine install.The hilux/prado diff is a very good option same "G" series as the mk3 supra and there are many different ratios i've seen from 6.67 straight down to 3.9
As for the brakes a set of skyline four pot shouldn't be too hard to put up front, but remember a larger booster will also be advised.
From my experience the diff, drive shaft etc are the most trouble some components, i've been through 2 surf diffs and one cressida. Key is to be sure and set the diff up properly the first time.
drunk24-7 wrote:In my case, my project consisted of a MX73 ( IRS RX70 cressida) mated to a 2jzgte tranny, used as a daily driver. After a few months of hard launches, lunatic driving, occasional attempted drift sessions, and "lighting it " here, there and everywhere else, the diff just gave up. A few days spent identifying which 3rd member (GUTTS) from any make of vehicle which was available, R32, R33, MK4, etc, and on advice from BCR ltd, the decision was simple...R32, based on ease of fabrication and installation, as well as replacing it in the event the diff decided to dismantle itself ever again. He created a jig using the original diff, removed the busted toyota 3rd member, and installed the 3rd member from the R32. Believe me, no easy task. All that was needed to be done, was to spline the cressida axles to the skyline set. Splining was decided for extra strength, for the same idotic driving reasons described above.
In terms of live axles, i,ve seen fellas use stronger diffs, eg E24, Prado, toyota surf is a fav... simply using the original diff as a jig, fabricate the dog bone mounts back onto the stronger diff, as well as the relative shock and spring mounts. i've seen it done a few times on pick up vans, as well as a ole model crown toting a 1jzgte...
Third, is where fellas have decided to install a IRS on a live axle car. I've seen it done on a bluebirds, laurels, as well as a no post 280 C. Cutthroat Inc has it done on an escort, and i think its been done to a KE70.
Since you came here to learn, i might as well share some ideas.
again, depending on ur budget, the 260 can be a good chassis. Of course, nothing beats free... personally, from experience, these ole cars "cyar take strain", and if they do, prepare to spend a lot of time in the parts bin, or on trinituner posting " looking for ole car parts " threads. Everything seems to be shaken or broken.
On the streets, stock 1jz and 2jz are basically the same, (eh RX80). Only difference is a bit extra grunt at higher rpms, lil higher gas bill, more stress in obtaining parts, as well as people looking at you in amazement when they hear about the 2jzgte... Bragging rights!!! but careful..almost everyone expects a 2jz to be modified. If it stock... yuh a "beh beh"
260 were suppoused to give a comfy ride, hence its no good for abuse. It rides like a boat. That can be fixed with a little creativity.
260 wasn't designed for such amount of power, so the brakes will be severly strained. No brakes, pumping the pedal like abs while looking for space to squeeze and not hit, bleeding brakes twice for the week, get used to it. yuh might as well learn to enjoy the smell of overheated brakes. its quite good actually. Again, this can be fixed with a bit of creativity. Depending on ur budget.
Don't believe me? Ask any ole car owner who installed a "fass engine". i eh talking SR or RB eh. strictly JZ to be precise.
Remember, there are virtually no aftermarket parts for the 260, so everything will have to be custom fabricated.
And to add one last thing, i've seen some RB20DET W/Tranny and very minor mods, (cheap!!!) leave me wondering what just happened.
If yuh have any questions, just gimme a call....will be glad to answer them...
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