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marlon333 wrote:I need to get Redline D4 ATF, where do you guys get them. I heard people say that they change their power steering fluid regularly. The manual says just to inspect the level. Should I change it? My M3 is doing about 29K.
konartis wrote:how much quarts of oil does it take to do a complete transmission oil drain and replace?and can anyone direct me to a place in south that does it? thanks!
ghostbusters wrote:SS dont ever answer the phone. Na, never purchased one, I recommend going on NTK's website and finding the matching part number for your application and see if you can find it at check's on cipero street in sando, would save you couple hundred bucks.
Rainman wrote:dredman1 wrote:Did you get a CEL coming up because of this? P0420 or something like that?Rainman wrote:My rear o2 sensor went out I. September last. I bought the part and fixed it myself.
How much was the sensor at SSSL?
Got the cel,used the scan tool, used a multimeter to confirm if it was the sensor....turns out that the heater circuit was shot. car was driving perfectly normal to be honest but I hate seeing warning lights. Sensor is 1390 at southern sales.
1) disconnect sensor harness from the back of the ecu in the engine bay.
2) unbolt metal cable holder (about half way on the cable length) 10mm spanner
3) use a 22 open end spanner to unbolt sensor....be veryyyy careful not to force it. Basically you don't want to break off the sensor in the bung.
4) repeat steps in reverse to install. I used a bit of loctite anti seize on it.
5) reset ecu (clear codes)
Make sure the car is cooled down before attempting. I rushed it and and got a nasty burn on my forearm.
tech_darin wrote:I saw the parts on an online Mazda store at a really good price, however the sensors come in standards : California and Federal can anyone tell me what standard sensor a RORO Mazda 3 would use is it a California or a Federal.
xNeXuSx wrote:I think the front sensor part # is LFL7-18-8G1C
tech_darin wrote:Rainman wrote:dredman1 wrote:Did you get a CEL coming up because of this? P0420 or something like that?Rainman wrote:My rear o2 sensor went out I. September last. I bought the part and fixed it myself.
How much was the sensor at SSSL?
Got the cel,used the scan tool, used a multimeter to confirm if it was the sensor....turns out that the heater circuit was shot. car was driving perfectly normal to be honest but I hate seeing warning lights. Sensor is 1390 at southern sales.
1) disconnect sensor harness from the back of the ecu in the engine bay.
2) unbolt metal cable holder (about half way on the cable length) 10mm spanner
3) use a 22 open end spanner to unbolt sensor....be veryyyy careful not to force it. Basically you don't want to break off the sensor in the bung.
4) repeat steps in reverse to install. I used a bit of loctite anti seize on it.
5) reset ecu (clear codes)
Make sure the car is cooled down before attempting. I rushed it and and got a nasty burn on my forearm.
@rainman I have a cel on which tells me problem with o2 sensor on bank 1. I did change the sensor but the light is still on with the same error. Someone told me i need to change both the front and rear sensor for the light to come off. You said u used a multimeter to test the sensor can you tell me about that how you did it and how the test was done or where i can get it done.
xNeXuSx wrote:konartis wrote:how much quarts of oil does it take to do a complete transmission oil drain and replace?and can anyone direct me to a place in south that does it? thanks!
Read page 32 bro.
You need to get the oil change done, then see if these problems persist.
tech_darin wrote:@rainman would also like to know if i have to test the sensor harness what would i need to test that and what would i be looking for, would i just need to check if there is electricity in it or will i need to check for voltages on the pins?
noshownogo wrote:So, serviced the better half Mazda3 today. Oil/Filter, Transmission fluid change, front left bearing, torque entire suspension and found a loose shock mount bolt in the same front left.
Car running like almost new now, just wind noise in the cabin with windows up as opposed to the loud tire humming sound (bearing) we had to shout over, transmission shifting smoothly where as before it almost seemed delayed and harsh. Overall handling feels tighter as well.
Up next, I want to tackle the headlights. They have the usual weathered haze appearing at the top.
Recommendations on kits and locations of same?
Rainman wrote:tech_darin wrote:@rainman would also like to know if i have to test the sensor harness what would i need to test that and what would i be looking for, would i just need to check if there is electricity in it or will i need to check for voltages on the pins?
if you installed an OE replacement O2 sensor you have to make sure that when you're doing the splice that you match the wires correctly. Most times the two matching colors would be for the heater circuit and the other two would be ground and ECU signal. I always suggest going for the original mazda sensor cause it takes the guesswork out of the repair.
Mazda part numbers are as follows:
Sensor 1 Bank 1: Z601-18-861A
Sensor 2 Bank 2: Z602-18-861A
Troubleshooting using the meter is only useful if the sensor is up to temperature, you wont get a mV output signal from the sensor if the car is cold and the heater is blown, this means running the car with the sensor in-bung while testing. You also have to test for continuity between the sensor harness and ecu, then continuity between the heater wires.
Rainman wrote:You have a cordless drill? If you do the 3M headlight restoration kit is the best bang for the buck, but remember the headlight will get cloudy again if you dont seal it. Use any protective wax that you have lying around.
noshownogo wrote:Rainman wrote:You have a cordless drill? If you do the 3M headlight restoration kit is the best bang for the buck, but remember the headlight will get cloudy again if you dont seal it. Use any protective wax that you have lying around.
You know where I can get that 3M kit?
konartis wrote:ok...having a slight problem on my m3, well not sure its a problem..anyways...on flat surface, when i put my car in reverse and start to reverse, i feel a slight "buck" almost like a stutter, but very slight...then it goes away anyone getting this? or knws what is the cause?
Groovemaster wrote:konartis wrote:ok...having a slight problem on my m3, well not sure its a problem..anyways...on flat surface, when i put my car in reverse and start to reverse, i feel a slight "buck" almost like a stutter, but very slight...then it goes away anyone getting this? or knws what is the cause?
U should check your engine/tranny mounts while changing the tranny oil.
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