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adnj wrote:Dual-tank, single-chamber designs give you greater capacity using smaller units to fit on slopes and in tighter areas.
Both tanks will have scum and sludge but the first tank will likely have more. Usually you just empty both if the service truck has the capacity.pugboy wrote:Ok, I guess also first unit would be the one to clean when that time comesadnj wrote:Dual-tank, single-chamber designs give you greater capacity using smaller units to fit on slopes and in tighter areas.
I have seen differences in under-ceiling temperatures of a few °C for similar structures in close proximity but that kind of comparison is meaningless because there are so many variables.RNR66 wrote:Can anyone say if those Radiant shield Barriers used under roof sheeting makes a significant Difference in interior temperature?
My online research so far indicates a 5-10 % decrease for tropical countries. Wondering if that is really worth the $6000 cost and also the durability of this foil based product.
Fiberglass insulation is used to prevent heat loss in temperate and cold climates. It is typically used locally in cold rooms and refrigerated walk-ins. It isn't super expensive but it is no fun to install it because of the high risk of skin and lung irritation.pugboy wrote:in other countries the thick type fiber insulation is preferred,
I have never seen that utilized for homes locally, probably much more expensive
telfer wrote:The walls were only primed so far
adnj wrote:Primed walls will accept gypsum mud better than any paint but not as well as bare concrete or bare plaster. Don't attempt to mud a wall painted with gloss or semigloss finishes.
Assuming that these are interior walls:
Prime the wall again and let it dry overnight. Although expensive, Drylok or another waterproof primer will give better protection from moisture that can move through concrete.
The gypsum mud skim coat should be only a few millimeters thick - 5 mm or less. Let the skim coat dry for a day or two and then sand. Prime the skim coat. You can wipe down the skim coat with a damp sponge for an even smoother finish if desired.telfer wrote:The walls were only primed so far
pugboy wrote:We had put it when we changed our roof sheeting a long time ago,
Can't say yes or no, but I think it helped slightly.
A well vented ceiling is recommended in general
The best thing they say is to install ceiling exhaust fans to move the hot air out of the ceiling.
Did you cast the base of the soakaway?air wick wrote:pugboy wrote:Nice long rubble drain
Any pics of inside soakaway ?
Lance wrote:I'm currentlypugboy wrote:We had put it when we changed our roof sheeting a long time ago,
Can't say yes or no, but I think it helped slightly.
A well vented ceiling is recommended in general
The best thing they say is to install ceiling exhaust fans to move the hot air out of the ceiling.Did you cast the base of the soakaway?air wick wrote:pugboy wrote:Nice long rubble drain
Any pics of inside soakaway ?
I'm currently dealing with soakaway headaches. Definitely not a trivial problem.
6 years into the initial one, it stopped flowing. I'm still unsure as to what caused it. It may be a combination of a few things - not cleaning the old tank soon enough and possibly the caving in of the side walls.
I'm digging a new one and noticing that the soil may not be best regarding penetration. But the new soak away hole might also be a little too close to the old one so the diggers are experiencing some caving in and a little seepage.
I bought some geotextile fabric but I'm not sure if that would be sufficient to prevent sediment filtering back into the stone.
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