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Thanks bro... you have any experience with the tiida alt? Could it be wired to do around the 14.5 range?adnj wrote:Amperage varies with shaft speed and that is a function of your idle speed and pulley ratio. You can test your alternator out put with a DC clamp on ammeter or a multimeter with a shunt.
Voltage is set by the regulator. If you want a higher output voltage, you will need a different regulator. Some external regulators are tunable for this reason.
Most automotive batteries do fine with a charge voltage of 13.8 to 14.7 volts but you need to get above 14.1 volts to prevent sulfation.
ARM batteries (like the Optima Red) need about 14.1 as a minimum charge voltage.
Jeremy09 wrote:Thanks bro... you have any experience with the tiida alt? Could it be wired to do around the 14.5 range?adnj wrote:Amperage varies with shaft speed and that is a function of your idle speed and pulley ratio. You can test your alternator out put with a DC clamp on ammeter or a multimeter with a shunt.
Voltage is set by the regulator. If you want a higher output voltage, you will need a different regulator. Some external regulators are tunable for this reason.
Most automotive batteries do fine with a charge voltage of 13.8 to 14.7 volts but you need to get above 14.1 volts to prevent sulfation.
ARM batteries (like the Optima Red) need about 14.1 as a minimum charge voltage.
I pulled out the jack entirely and it read 15v
Yes, i did all the terminal cleaning but the grease...i just dont want it to affect performance nor battery life as i now brought the red top and well the xp3000 is a few months old.adnj wrote:Jeremy09 wrote:Thanks bro... you have any experience with the tiida alt? Could it be wired to do around the 14.5 range?adnj wrote:Amperage varies with shaft speed and that is a function of your idle speed and pulley ratio. You can test your alternator out put with a DC clamp on ammeter or a multimeter with a shunt.
Voltage is set by the regulator. If you want a higher output voltage, you will need a different regulator. Some external regulators are tunable for this reason.
Most automotive batteries do fine with a charge voltage of 13.8 to 14.7 volts but you need to get above 14.1 volts to prevent sulfation.
ARM batteries (like the Optima Red) need about 14.1 as a minimum charge voltage.
I pulled out the jack entirely and it read 15v
As I said earlier, the voltage regulator is integral to the alternator. You will see it bolted onto the rear. You will need to change the entire voltage regulator to adjust the voltage.
It seems to be operating within spec. What you can do is clean the all of the terminals in the charge circuit, reseat them properly and see if that helps. You can also use a bit of dielectric grease at the each connection. You can get away with Vaseline in a pinch.
I cleaned the chassis also. It doesn't go up from idle when i rev to 2500rpm, stays on 14.2. Also the pulley on the tiida alt smaller than the 1 that was on the stock toyata.adnj wrote:Also clean the terminations to the chassis.
Check the voltage at idle and at 2500 rpm. If the voltage goes up, you may have an underdriven alternator. You can change to a smaller alternator pulley to increase shaft speed at idle.
Jeremy09 wrote:I cleaned the chassis also. It doesn't go up from idle when i rev to 2500rpm, stays on 14.2. Also the pulley on the tiida alt smaller than the 1 that was on the stock toyata.adnj wrote:Also clean the terminations to the chassis.
Check the voltage at idle and at 2500 rpm. If the voltage goes up, you may have an underdriven alternator. You can change to a smaller alternator pulley to increase shaft speed at idle.
No, thats the other guy. I read my directly from my deafbounce amp on the bass knob. Is says 14.2v and i checked the battery terminal also with a multimeter and it says 14.26vadnj wrote:Jeremy09 wrote:I cleaned the chassis also. It doesn't go up from idle when i rev to 2500rpm, stays on 14.2. Also the pulley on the tiida alt smaller than the 1 that was on the stock toyata.adnj wrote:Also clean the terminations to the chassis.
Check the voltage at idle and at 2500 rpm. If the voltage goes up, you may have an underdriven alternator. You can change to a smaller alternator pulley to increase shaft speed at idle.
I believe that you posted that you are reading voltage from a cigar lighter meter. You will want to read the voltage at the battery terminals.
Kasey wrote:I don't believe you have a problem. Just that its slightly less than your stock voltage. When I had my original alt in my van, my voltage (battery terminal) was 14.6v and when I replaced it with a tiida alt, my voltage now reads 14.1v. Maybe its a common with tiida alts. But nevertheless, its fine, and has been working in my van for the past 4 months. I have stock battery, did the big 3 upgrade, and use a 2000watt total RMS sound system daily, with no issues.
Funny thing. The guy with the feilder with the same tidda alt reading 14.2v like me with a single northstar 76ah bat running more power than i and he is louder (his amps total 3000plus rms) and my 2700rms system with 2 batteries(redtop and xp3000). And when we play the same sound his voltage reads 13.5v and mine goes down to 12.6v and his alt belt slack loladnj wrote:Kasey wrote:I don't believe you have a problem. Just that its slightly less than your stock voltage. When I had my original alt in my van, my voltage (battery terminal) was 14.6v and when I replaced it with a tiida alt, my voltage now reads 14.1v. Maybe its a common with tiida alts. But nevertheless, its fine, and has been working in my van for the past 4 months. I have stock battery, did the big 3 upgrade, and use a 2000watt total RMS sound system daily, with no issues.
The correct charge voltage for an automotive lead-acid battery is anywhere from 13.8v to 14.7v (2.3v to 2.45v per cell).
The charge voltage will drop to the lower side of the range when the battery is nearly changed. The charge current will drop to near zero, also.
It may be that your battery had less charge when using your original alternator.
Jeremy09 wrote:Funny thing. The guy with the feilder with the same tidda alt reading 14.2v like me with a single northstar 76ah bat running more power than i and he is louder (his amps total 3000plus rms) and my 2700rms system with 2 batteries(redtop and xp3000). And when we play the same sound his voltage reads 13.5v and mine goes down to 12.6v and his alt belt slack lol
Ps we both tuned using the dd1 meter
I dont use a battery isolator.adnj wrote:Jeremy09 wrote:Funny thing. The guy with the feilder with the same tidda alt reading 14.2v like me with a single northstar 76ah bat running more power than i and he is louder (his amps total 3000plus rms) and my 2700rms system with 2 batteries(redtop and xp3000). And when we play the same sound his voltage reads 13.5v and mine goes down to 12.6v and his alt belt slack lol
Ps we both tuned using the dd1 meter
Dropping to 12.6v at the battery terminals is a definite issue.
If you haven't tested the current along the supply paths then you will only be able to guess at what is actually happening.
Assuming that the idle speeds are the same and the alternator pulley ratios are identical...
The voltage drop below charge threshold (13.5v) means that:
1. The alternator is defective and cannot provide sufficient current, or
2. The batteries have sulfated or corroded plates and cannot hold expected reserve capacity, or
3. Your system has a significantly larger driven load than the other vehicle.
Increased loads are due to poor connections, high resistance cables, mismatched speaker impedance, or less efficient amplifiers.
Sulfated or corroded battery plates are due to age, incorrect charging or deep-cycling of the battery.
Alternator failures are typically due to belt slip, bearing drag, bad windings, failed rectifier diodes, or failed voltage regulator circuitry.
Loss of amplification (loudness) can also be caused by impedance mismatch or excess total impedance.
Nope. I think that nvx wire was safe with 300plus amps...nicholasfabulous wrote:Any wires get hot or anything like that? Find it funny how men run to these tiida alternator and get dissatisfied and then vex
Jeremy09 wrote:Nope. I think that nvx wire was safe with 300plus amps...nicholasfabulous wrote:Any wires get hot or anything like that? Find it funny how men run to these tiida alternator and get dissatisfied and then vex
Last weekend we did tests on the grounds and resistance on the block and they read 0.02ohms with the leads on the fluke mulitmeter having a resistance of 0.01. I did my first load test on the xp3000 about 3weeks ago and fuzz said it reads great as i was using the xp3000 as a single primary battery in the rear to start the car. I brought the redtop optima in pricesmart a few days ago and its carded for its first test in 2weeks for the front. I brought down some knuconcepts distribution blocks and while i was waiting for it to reach trini i disconnected the xp3000 and used the redtop solely with no issues. Got the distribution blocks and hooked it up, did some voltage drop test at mid volume playing a 40hz tone, got 14.25v at battery post and 14.13v at the amp.Rage Warrior wrote:Disconnect the XS power and start car,make sure voltage good,play music and check for voltage drop. Then switch off car and play music while testing voltage drop. Record results. Then repeat with with XS hooked up and record results. Test at alternator,batteries,amps,ground and fuse blocks and XS terminals. Post it when you done.
Both batteries work fine and are hooked up but its like no matter what upgrades i do to electrical the output is the same,even on a meter. When i play music and its under load (like 3 quaters of vol) it drops to 12.5v so on, i friemd of mine has vasically same set up with way less battery bank and his voltage reads 13.6v on the same sounds i read at 12.5v and he is louder,. Not sure if u took a read through the other posts. Ull get an idea of what am trying to fix, or understandRage Warrior wrote:So wait,when using 1 battery either XS or Optima did you have any problems like voltage drop that was bad? And did this voltage drop only start when using two batteries together?
Thanks. I saw that vid..did that test...Rage Warrior wrote:https://youtu.be/APLic9F7ZsA
No no, at mid volume playing the 40hz i dont clip and i did the voltage drop test at that mid volume getting 14.2v at the battery pole and 14.1v at the amp so thats minimal and good...when i play at max vol where am about to clip i go to 13v and lowerRage Warrior wrote:You show have played max unclipped volume . You already drop .12 volts at mid volume.
I had the system on the xp3000 alone first, then the redtop alone. Now both, works fine, not sure if my tida alt is defected or if there is something with the car itself causing it nor to push out the ampsRage Warrior wrote:Sorry about all the questions but I have a tiida and not fully installed as yet so this problem could potentially happen to me. Will run about the same rms so I'm just curious. When you say no issues with red top solely, no voltage drop? and also where was your amps getting power from -starting battery(redtop) and now where? XS in the back?Or still starting battery(redtop). Or both running to one terminal block.
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