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Coil packs - how often do they go bad and why?

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evo-STI-k

Coil packs - how often do they go bad and why?

Postby evo-STI-k » September 20th, 2006, 4:12 pm

Now , im just asking but in EFI engines!

How often do coil packs go bad? and is it a bit strange that 2 or 4 will go bad at the same time????
I have a reason for asking!
Do they degrade with time and if one starts to go bad will there be a change in idle and performance that will be Noticable????
or does 2 have to be bad for a notable change in idle and accelleration?

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Postby DrunkenMaster16 » September 20th, 2006, 4:23 pm

Only one has to go bad for you to feel a performance loss / ruff idle. As with alot of things they will degrade with time, water is the main issue im told with them don't get them wet, not a drop!

evo-STI-k

Postby evo-STI-k » September 20th, 2006, 8:28 pm

well the car was sent in for a service last week, before that service it was working without any problems.
got it back and after a few days it started giving a bad idle and then got progressively worse over the course of 2 days.
Got it checked by another garage and theytold me that the coil packs were bad!

All 4??
do you think that the service at the company may have swapped the packs ???

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Postby Media Graphics Ltd. » September 20th, 2006, 8:32 pm

as far as i know on my car the coil pack isnt separated into 4 parts. if 1 of the plugs go bad then the whole unit has to change

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Postby k.c.151 » September 20th, 2006, 9:57 pm

it is very possible...1 of my coil packs needed to be changed without warnin...
talkin 2 a chick, air condition on an ting, time 2 drive off, soundin like a blasted ole car...straight by the mechanic an the coil pack was the reason...

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Postby turbofied » September 20th, 2006, 11:33 pm

they dont go very often
i changed one only,

btw i like them more than plug wires and distributor

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Postby vw » September 21st, 2006, 2:25 pm

THIS INFO HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A WHILE BUT AS SPARK PLUGS AGE IT BUILDS UP MORE RESISTANCE WHICH IN TURN PUTS THE COIL PACK UNDER "STRAIN" TO CREATE THE SPARK INTENSITY NEEDED FOR A COMPLETE BURN IN THE CYLINDER HEAD THIS GREATLY REDUCES THE LIFESPAN OF THE COIL PACK SO BE AWARE AND CHECK YOUR SPARK PLUGS EVERY 20,000 KM BECAUSE OF THE "GREAT GAS" WE GET IN TRINBAGO

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Postby cacasplat3 » September 21st, 2006, 4:19 pm

^^^^ yuh caps lock on





how much for the average coil pack?
i have 6 and if all were to just go like sii co's then i wah know how deep ah hole i in.

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Postby k.c.151 » September 21st, 2006, 4:23 pm

if i remember correctly i think is $200. i paid for mine...

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Postby seanf3000 » September 21st, 2006, 5:08 pm

ammm....one coil pack from a firm for a current model car is like 800+ each

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Postby k.c.151 » September 21st, 2006, 5:19 pm

^^^ foreign used... :lol:

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Postby cacasplat3 » September 21st, 2006, 5:21 pm

^^^^^ hmmmmmm that is toyota?


wonder how much fuh the original for a nissan


these things are application specific? or do all nissan's fit nissan and likewise with toyota etc.

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Postby k.c.151 » September 21st, 2006, 5:37 pm

^^^ i have a wingroad cacas...

nissan or walk...

except 4 toyota, mitsu, subaru...

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Postby cacasplat3 » September 21st, 2006, 5:50 pm

ok cool thanks :mrgreen:

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Postby mitsugdi » September 24th, 2006, 8:11 pm

vw wrote:THIS INFO HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A WHILE BUT AS SPARK PLUGS AGE IT BUILDS UP MORE RESISTANCE WHICH IN TURN PUTS THE COIL PACK UNDER "STRAIN" TO CREATE THE SPARK INTENSITY NEEDED FOR A COMPLETE BURN IN THE CYLINDER HEAD THIS GREATLY REDUCES THE LIFESPAN OF THE COIL PACK SO BE AWARE AND CHECK YOUR SPARK PLUGS EVERY 20,000 KM BECAUSE OF THE "GREAT GAS" WE GET IN TRINBAGO

where did you get that info ? from a mechanic ?
i don't agree with that.
my opinion.

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Postby venum » September 25th, 2006, 9:20 pm

^^^ neither do I

Mitsu do one of your great posts on COPs nah dude

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Postby mitsugdi » September 26th, 2006, 11:14 am

venum wrote:^^^ neither do I

Mitsu do one of your great posts on COPs nah dude


TAKEN FROM AUTO WORKSHOP MANUALCoil Diagnosis
Though coils are very reliable, they sometimes fail. Coils run hot because of the voltage that is constantly surging through them. Over time, the combination of heat and voltage may break down the insulation between the windings, coil housing or tower. If a coil problem is suspected, the coil’s primary and secondary resistance can be measured with an ohmmeter. If either is out of specifications, the coil needs to be replaced.

A short or lower-than-normal resistance in the primary windings allows excessive current to flow through the coil, which can quickly damage the ignition module. This also may reduce the coil’s voltage output resulting in a weak spark, hard starting and hesitation or misfire under load or when accelerating.

An open or high resistance in the coil primary windings will not usually damage the ignition module or PCM driver circuit right away, but it may cause the module to run hot and shorten its life. With this condition, coil output will be low or non-existent (weak spark or no spark).

A short or low resistance in the coil’s secondary windings will result in a weak spark, but will not damage the module or PCM driver circuit. An open or high resistance in the coil’s secondary windings will also cause a weak spark or no spark, and it may also damage the ignition module due to feedback induction through the primary circuit.
An important point to keep in mind with respect to all types of ignition coils is that when the magnetic field collapses, the high-voltage surge has to go someplace. If it can’t go to the spark plug, it will find another path to ground - which may be back through the ignition module, PCM driver circuit or through the insulation inside the coil itself. This can be very damaging to these parts. So never disconnect a plug wire or COP coil while the engine is running. It can be very damaging as well as dangerous to you should you become the path to ground. When a coil failure occurs on a distributor ignition system, it affects all of the cylinders. The engine may not start, or it may misfire badly when under load. But with multi-coil ignition systems, a single coil failure will only affect one cylinder (or paired cylinders in the case of waste spark DIS systems).

NOTE: YOUR SPARK PLUG IS PART OR THE COIL SECONDARY CIRCUIT
HAVING READ THE ABOVE IT WOULD BE A GOOD PRACTICE TO HAVE A SPARE PLUG TO PLUGIN THE COIL PACK AND GROUND IT TO THE ENGINE LEAVING THE ORIGINAL ONE ON THE CYLINDER. THIS IS IF YOU WANT TO CHECK YOUR CYLINDERS FOR MISFIRE OR FOULING.BY DOING THIS YOU WOULD NOT HAVE AN OPEN CIRCUIT ON THE COIL SECONDARY.THIS IS MY METHOD OF CHECKING WITHOUT CREATING DAMAGE.
Last edited by mitsugdi on September 26th, 2006, 12:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Postby squinty_eye » September 26th, 2006, 11:29 am

Need to know where I can get a coil pack for a Mitsubishi Galant VR-G GDI 1800. I think it has gond bad, rough idling really bad and when I changed my plugs that particular one was really fouled looked like molasses. I will send a pic. But I really need to get one urgently (price and where to buy), don't want further damage to vehicle.

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Postby mitsugdi » September 26th, 2006, 8:54 pm

squinty_eye wrote:Need to know where I can get a coil pack for a Mitsubishi Galant VR-G GDI 1800. I think it has gond bad, rough idling really bad and when I changed my plugs that particular one was really fouled looked like molasses. I will send a pic. But I really need to get one urgently (price and where to buy), don't want further damage to vehicle.


check the molasses colour.
http://www.mztech.fsnet.co.uk/workshop/wrk_plugs.html

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Postby kes_vtec » September 27th, 2006, 3:57 pm

call Haroon Soobratte - 6810452
they are in couva

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Postby Greypatch » September 27th, 2006, 5:32 pm

nice lilk mitsu

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Postby mitsugdi » September 27th, 2006, 8:47 pm

Greypatch wrote:nice lilk mitsu


OK Acknowledged
thank you.
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Postby ~Vēġó~ » October 1st, 2006, 12:48 pm

nice thread...........

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