Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
Gasoline & Diesel Injector Cleaning
Diesel Pump Service: Common Rail & Direct Injection
Please click for here for professional injector cleaning and diesel and GDI fuel pump servicing.
Engine Decarbonization Service
Please click for here for professional decarbonization service.
Routine Maintenance Services
Oil/Transmission/Gearbox/Coolant/Brake/Differential/Transfer Case Fluid changes.
Other works available.
Contact us for a quotation - PM or Whatsapp 734-7669
Product Brand and Cost Summary - 734-7669
ALL products available at Princes Town, or via delivery - 734-7669
Luberfiner OEM Replacement Oil Filters
Luberfiner Oil filters in stock for most cars.
High quality filters, from the people who manufacture oil filters for K&N, Royal Purple and Volkswagen.
Wholesale inquiries welcome.
Directions to Auto Technica Workshop
Location - 28 Craignish Village, Princes Town.
Opening Hours - All work and all sales are done by appointment, so please call first before coming in. 734-7669
Click here for directions courtesy Google Maps
When coming from San Fernando, you will have to either drive through Princes Town or take the M1 Tasker Road bypass.
1. If coming through Princes Town, its 1 kilometre after the town centre, on the main road (Naparima Mayaro Road).
Pass the fire station on the right, pass Family Mart Supermarket on the left, then look for the gas station (on the left) on the corner of the Naparima Mayaro Road (aka High Street) and the M1 Tasker road. It's the second building after the gas station. Orange in colour, so you cant miss it!
2. If coming via the M1 Tasker Road, you will cross the Naparima Mayaro Road (aka High Street) at a traffic light intersection. Follow the road carefully, as there are some bad spots and wicked corners. When you reach the T junction, turn left. About 30 metres after, turn right at the Y junction. Follow the road until you meet the Naparima Mayaro Road (aka High Street). Turn left and its the second house on the left. Orange in colour, so you cant miss it!
I drive an older vehicle. Does it make sense to use synthetic oil?
Any vehicle can use synthetic oil, once it meets the specifications recommended by your vehicle manufacturer. Many people wonder if it makes sense, and economically, it does. Synthetics can run significantly longer than mineral oil. Given that typical mineral oil costs more than half of what synthetics cost, there is already benefit. Factor in the savings in both time and labour costs, and you have another winner.
Is there a procedure for switching to synthetic oil?
From an application perspective, there is nothing extra that needs to be done when switching to synthetic oil. What I do recommend is the oil change procedure below!
What's the Big Z recommended oil change procedure?
1. Drain oil, remove filter and replace drain plug. Ensure that the oil filter gasket is not stuck to the engine.
2. Pour in one third quart of cheap 10W30 (or thinner) oil. Let sit for 5 minutes and then drain. Replace drain plug.
3. Repeat step 2 until drained oil comes out clear. This removes most particles in the drain pan that would normally not be removed.
4. Place oil on oil filter gasket, fill oil filter with as much oil as possible when considering the mounting position of the oil filter, and install filter.
5. Fill engine till full mark on dip stick.
6. Start engine, switch off and re-check level. Do not fill over the full mark.
Which viscousity oil should I use?
The definitive guide to the correct oil for you vehicle is your owner's manual.
Please consult it for the manufacturer's recommendations.
Some manufacturers may list a range of oils as being suitable. Use the lowest viscousity oil which is generally available. (which usually tends to be 5W30 or 10W30)
Thicker oils do not drip off as quickly as thinner oils, so solids in suspension tend to fall out and coat surfaces with carbon, eventually conglomerating into sludge.
In lieu of an owner's manual, for properly working vehicles up to fifteen (15) years old (and even older), 5W30 or 10W30 is the default recommendation.
For turbo applications (where no owners manual is available) 10W40 or 15W40 is my recommendation.
Yes, 20W50 is for old vehicles.
If you are unsure, feel free to contact me for a recommendation.
Honda B1*, D1*, F2*, H2*, K2* - 5W30 or 10W30
Mazda ZL, ZM, ZY, MZR - 10W30
Mitsubishi - 4B**, 4B11T, 4G**, 6A**, 6B** - 5W30 or 10W30
Mitsubishi - 4G**/6A** Turbo, - 5W40, 10W40 or 15W40
Nissan SR, QG, QR, GA, CG, VG, VQ, RB, HR, MR - 5W30 or 10W30
Nissan SR20DET, RB2*DET - 5W40, 10W40 or 15W40
Subaru - EJ** - 5W30 or 10W30
Subaru - EJ** Turbo - 5W40, 10W40 or 15W40
Suzuki - H2*A, J2* , M1*A - 5W30 or 10W30
Toyota *A-FE, 4A-GE, *E-FE, *NZ-FE, *ZZ-FE, 1ZZ-GE, *JZ - 5W30 or 10W30
Toyota *JZ Turbo - 5W40, 10W40 or 15W40
Is there a procedure for switching to a lower viscousity oil?
A lower viscousity oil will remove carbon, varnish and sludge buildup that is left by the 20W50 that was in use before. After moving to a lower viscousity, it is recommended that an extended oil change interval not be used due to the higher amount of oil contamination by carbon, varnish and sludge. After this oil has been changed, extended change intervals can then be run as normal.
How often should I change engine oil?
When used in a properly working non-modified engine, synthetic oil can be run to between fifteen and twenty thousand kilometres. Some synthetic oils are actually rated for twenty thousand miles! The OEM change interval for most vehicles is usually 5000 km to 7500 km. As such, an oil change interval of 10000 km to 15000 km is recommended. I highly suggest that you do not pass 15000 km or twice the OEM recommendation on the same oil.
How often should I change the oil filter?
When using good quality or OEM filters, the oil filter should be changed at your OEM oil change interval. Please consult your vehicles owners manual for this change interval. This filter change will require a top up of the oil to replace the oil lost in the transition. Typical oil filter capacity is 0.25 quart. Therefore, cater for one half quart to one quart of oil when replacing the oil filter, to compensate for spillage and oil lost in the replaced filter.
Those wishing to avoid having to change filters are advised to use the Royal Purple Extended Life Oil Filter. These can safely work for the suggested 15000 km.
Which oil filter should I use?
This depends on your oil change interval and personal preference.For OEM oil change intervals: Use a quality filter, such as the Luberfiner brand.For extended drain intervals (low cost option): Use a budget filter, such as the Luberfiner brand and replace the filter at the OEM recommendation. See procedure above.For extended drain intervals (premium option): Use a filter targeted for extended drain intervals, such as the Royal Purple oil filter. This filter is recommended safe for 15000 km.For the best in filtration efficiency: Use the Royal Purple oil filter.
Is a bigger oil filter better?
A larger oil filter has the following advantages:
1. More oil - Useful if you are running an extended drain interval.
2. Better filtration - The filter has more filter media so the flow rate per unit area is lower. Slower moving particles are easier to capture in the filter media.
3. Increased particle holding capacity - More filter media will hold more particles.
4. Lower oil temperatures - Larger filter has more surface area exposed to the air and thus allows more cooling of the filter.
5. Less flow restriction - Due to being larger, the oil filter will have less flow restriction, allowing for slightly higher oil pressures and freeing up some engine horsepower.
6. More consistent filtration - As the engine speed climbs, the oil pump volume output climbs as well. Most filter have bypass valves which bypass the oil filter media should the pressure across the filtration media go too high. It is common for filters to be in bypass at higher engine speeds. With a larger filter, the pressure drop across the filter media is lower, allowing for the engine to run to a higher speed before the filter goes into bypass.
My vehicle is consuming oil, but there are no leaks and little/no blue smoke?
Oil consumption is caused by the following items:
1. Stuck open PCV valve.
2. Worn valve guide seals.
3. Worn valve guide.
4. Worn piston rings.
For those who have oil consumption, the first item that should be done is replacement of the PCV valve. This usually solves most oil consumption issues.
What is the difference between 5W, 10W and 15W?
Amsoil Oil Viscousities (Taken from the Amsoil website August 2010)
Viscousity | cSt@40*C | cSt@100*C
05W30 | 60.7 | 10.8
10W30 | 63.3 | 10.8
05W40 | 87.1 | 14.6
10W40 | 90.5 | 14.6
15W40 | 98.2 | 14.5
20W50 | 123.8 | 18.9
Redline Oil Viscousities (Taken from the Redline website December 2010)
Viscousity | cSt@40*C | cSt@100*C
05W30 | 62 | 10.6
10W30 | 70 | 10.7
05W40 | 94 | 15.1
10W40 | 93 | 14.6
15W40 | 97 | 14.5
20W50 | 148 | 19.8
Royal Purple Oil Viscousities (Extracted form the Royal Purple Catalog)
Viscousity | cSt@40*C | cSt@100*C
05W30 | 65.3 | 11.0
10W30 | 70.3 | 10.8
05W40 | 93.7 | 15.7
10W40 | 94.0 | 14.0
15W40 | 110.1 | 15.3
20W50 | 170.0 | 20.2
From the above table, you can see there is little difference between 5W40 and 15W40 in Amsoil, Redline and Royal Purple. The 15W40 also carries the added advantage of being CI-4 and/or CJ-4 rated, meaning it holds up well to the extreme conditions of a diesel engine, and being SL and/or SM rated, will work wonderfully in a gasoline engine.
To create a multigrade oil, you need to add viscousity modifiers to the base stock. The larger the difference between the winter rating and summer rating, the more viscousity modifiers needed. Oil itself does not breakdown in an engine, but viscousity modifiers do, and the complete product loses the properties that it initially started out with. In short, bigger difference means faster breakdown. Therefore, choose wisely when purchasing.
What is the API CF-4, CI-4, CI-4+, CJ-4 and API SL, SM, SN ratings?
CJ-4 and SN are (as of December 2011) the latest revision of the API standards for engine oil.
C* is the rating for compression ignited (diesel) engines, while S* is the rating for spark ignited engines (which includes gasoline engines)
Most oils carry both a C and an S rating, meaning that they can be used in both diesel and gasoline engines. However, API seems to be moving away from this with the newer specifications.
API ratings are also backward compatible. This means that CJ-4 can replace all of the older standards before it, including CI-4+, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-2 and CF. Similarly, SM can replace SL, SJ, SH, etc. Please read the answer to the next question.
Should I use an API CJ-4 rated oil?
CJ-4 oils are designed for newer engines that have diesel particulate filters (DPF) and require low suphur diesel fuel. CJ-4 oils contain less sulphur, zinc and phosphorous than pre-CJ-4 oils. Phosphorus and sulphur in the lube oil and diesel fuel can shorten DPF cleaning intervals considerably. Phosphorus (P) can ‘glaze over’ and plug the tiny holes in the DPF, making the openings effectively smaller and quicker to plug. Sulphur can ‘mask’ the DPF, making it temporarily less effective. Sulphated Ash (SA) in the lube is thought to build up deposits on the DPF over time. These deposits that originate from diesel fuel and lube oil then make the DPF effectively smaller and quicker to plug.
Low P means less Zincdithiophosphate (Zinc and Phosphorus) additive can be utilized. ZDP is the most effective oxidation inhibitor and anti-wear agent currently available. Additive manufacturers are now forced to use more expensive and less effective ashless oxidation inhibitors and antiwear agents.
As such, use CJ-4 oils only if you have a DPF and use low sulphur diesel. Otherwise, use a CI-4 or CI-4+ rated oil.
What is the ACEA Ax/Bx designation?
First, some background. The European Automobile Manufacturers Association (ACEA), founded in 1991, represents the interests of the sixteen European car, truck and bus manufacturers at the EU level. For our purposes, the ACEA has set standards for engine oil, similar to what is done by API, but the ACEA specification is much more difficult to meet.
While the API rating tells you what rating the oil starts off at, the ACEA rating will tell you how long it will maintain those characteristics. Some measured items are engine wear, fuel economy, sludging, foaming, volatility, corrosion and oil viscousity.A/B: Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oils
A1/B1: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
A3/B3: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.
A3/B4: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and direct injection diesel engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.
A5/B5: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.C: Catalyst compatibility oils
C1: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines requiring low friction, low viscosity, low SAPS oils with a HTHS higher than 2.9 mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and provide fuel economy benefit.
Warning: these oils have the lowest SAPS limits and may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
C2: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity oils with a HTHS higher than 2.9 mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and provide fuel economy benefit.
Warning: these oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
C3: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life.
Warning: these oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
C4: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines requiring low SAPS oil with HTHS higher than 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life.
Warning: these oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.E: Heavy Duty Diesel engine oils
E4: Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing excellent control of piston cleanliness, wear, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under very severe conditions, e.g. significantly extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. It is suitable for engines without particulate filters, and for some EGR engines and some engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.
E6: Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing excellent control of piston cleanliness, wear, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under very severe conditions, e.g. significantly extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. It is suitable for EGR engines, with or without particulate filters, and for engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. E6 quality is strongly recommended for engines fitted with particulate filters and is designed for use in combination with low sulphur diesel fuel. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.
E7: Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing effective control with respect to piston cleanliness and bore polishing. It further provides excellent wear control, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under severe conditions, e.g. extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. It is suitable for engines without particulate filters, and for most EGR engines and most engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.
E9: Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing effective control with respect to piston cleanliness and bore polishing. It further provides excellent wear control, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under severe conditions, e.g. extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. It is suitable for engines with or without particulate filters, and for most EGR engines and for most engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. E9 is strongly recommended for engines fitted with particulate filters and is designed for use in combination with low sulphur diesel fuel. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Drivers Manuals and/or Dealers should be consulted if in doubtAbbreviations
SAPS: Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulphur
DPF: Diesel Particulate Filter
TWC: Three way catalyst
HTHS: High temperature / High shear rate viscosity
EGR: Exhaust Gas Recirculation
What is the ILSAC GF-x designation?
The Japan Automobile Manufacturers Association, Inc. and representatives from Chrysler Group LLC, Ford Motor Company and General Motors LLC, through an organization called the International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), jointly developed and approved an ILSAC GF-x (currently at GF-5) minimum performance standard for engine oils for spark-ignited internal combustion engines. Similar to the ACEA tests, the GF-5 standard also measures items such engine wear, fuel economy, sludging, foaming, volatility, corrosion and oil viscousity.
What is the difference between GL-4 and GL-5 Gear Oil?
GL-4 and GL-5 are API classifications for gear oils. Unlike engine oil, where the API classification is updated regularly and replaced by a higher "letter", this is not the case for gear oils. GL-5 is NOT an upgrade to GL-4.
API Category GL-4 designates the type of service characteristic of spiral-bevel and hypoid gears in automotive axles operated under moderate speeds and loads. These oils are typically used in manual transmission and transaxle applications.
API Category GL-5 designates the type of service characteristic of gears, particularly hypoids in automotive axles under high-speed and/or low-speed, high-torque conditions. These oil are typically used in rear/center/front differentials.
What does an oil pressure gauge show?
The reading on your oil pressure gauge is related to the HTHS viscousity, the rpm and the resistance to flow of oil in your engine. The higher the HTHS, the less likely you are to spin a bearing, but, the fuel economy will be low. Conversely, The lower the HTHS, the more likely you are to spin a bearing, but, the fuel economy will be high.CentiStoke (cSt): Measurement of kinematic viscousity (at Cold 40C and Hot 100C), "tendency to flow" at a given temperature. "pouring a cup of honey"
CentiPoises (cP): Measurment of Absolute (Dynamic) viscousity, "ability of something to flow through the oil", the internal resistance to flow. Excellent for measuring shear. "stirring a cup of honey"Article Source
I do agree with the posters above, but adding in some real engineering, real world track experience, and a light chemistry background changes things alot- heres why-
if you compare VI on say any of the factory oil in the chart I posted above, and say take Adeka Sakura-Lube with its VI over 200 and track that(its factory toyota, as good oil as idemitsu and eneos from japan in 0w20,) versus, say the guy who finds a deal on amazon or wally mart on Castrol Edge SN 0W-20 with it's low 162 VI is about the least attractive 0W-20 oil grade I know of, tracking that and tracking any of the factory are big differences despite same hths. Thats one of my points. I suggest not going below 180 on VI.
In that case, running a 0w-30 with a 180 VI and higher HTHS becomes reasonable for track use, since its got more ZDDP and higher hths, right? One would assume so at first glance. Its done often. Even then, I'd be cautious about selecting an 0w30 with the lowest possible cSt at 100c hence my suggestion for Lubro if you feel you must go thicker thinking its more protection. Its not.
To better understand why and how high pressure hydraulically activated cam systems are pressure critical indeed, one needs to appreciate understanding laminar flo characteristics of a fluid, Thicker fluid with too much pressure is NOT your friend in truth, if that pressure is at the cost of decreased laminar flo. Flo isnt always measured in classical settings using a PSI gauge.
As far as that is concerned, and you should be concerned here as well, so long as you run a quality factory grade protection packed OE oil, its actually not terrible at all since you stay in the correct pressure ranges. Admittedly, if my car sees track time, its oil intervals are shorter than my other cars, so theres that too. Since you said it yourself, using higher ZDDP oils in a ceramic cat like the factory one is not gonna be friendly. So there are good reasons to NOT run a thicker oil too that you should be aware of.
take into consideration the fact that lubrication occurs because of flow and not viscosity then you technically want as much oil flow as you can while maintaining necessary pressure. a standard rule is 10psi for every 1,000 rpms of engine rotation. Our pump produces this without issue with OE weight oil with cst between 6.x and 8.x @100, thats a fact.
Pressure is the best way to evaluate whether or not the oil you are using is to thin or thick for your application. Since oil thins as it warms you would get to a point in oil temperature where you wouldn't be producing enough pressure to flow oil into critical locations. If that occurs then you need to switch to a higher viscosity oil. I dont see that as problem, our cars run great under load in high pressure. It seems the issue is with oil flow at lower RPMs. I dont think a thicker fluid is the correct solution.
While running a higher viscosity oil seems obvious for the novice, one justification for using thicker oil is an owner sits in traffic and sees their oil temperatures go above normal. Their solution is to run a thicker oil for better protection. okay. Now, the First problem is when you increase viscosity you decrease flow. As a result the oil is incapable of carrying heat away from the motor to the coolers. And if youre tracking this thing you really should consider a cooler. Every car I track gets one, but thats me. and most guys at the track too. (the strategy shifts from trying a fluid that may perform 'better hotter' thinking to simply using the correct oil, and managing thermal dynamics-"keeping it cool is smarter than running it thicker" becomes he name of the game)
The result of the wisdom of higher viscosity is your oil ACTUALLY runs hotter than it would have with the thinner viscosity. Not so smart if I may observe so. Second is that when sitting in traffic you don't require the kind of protection you do at 9,000 rpms. At idle your load is maybe 20% and your RPM's are between 850 and 1,500. In this situation there's very little chance of long term damage. But the flo isnt gonna be right at low rpms with the higher viscosity fluid either! Now, if you are running very high temperatures and your flo or pressure isn't as high as it should be at idle as it is at 9,000 rpms then you have a good chance of long term damage from using a higher viscosity oil at idle.
Other aspects play into the capability of a lubricant including the oil's base stock and additive packages. The oil's base stock plays into the lubricant's properties in terms of how it handles changes in viscosity and how well it can hold it. Group III base stocks are mineral oil based and require viscosity modifiers to make the oil a multi-viscosity lubricant. Group IV and V are true synthetics which don't require viscosity modifiers and there is little viscosity change over the life of the oil. Technically if you could remove the contaminants and recharge the additives in the oil a synthetic could be ran forever.
you should use the next thinnest choice for what you think you should be running. If you think you should run a 50w oil then run a 40w and so on. Also, be sure you are using a 0w oil as this will give you the best startup protection. 90% of engine damage happens during cold starts. This is the reason I use the oil I do because I daily drive my BRZ and I have a lot of starts and stops. Using a thicker oil here is less than prudent unless youre trailering your car to the track, and only using it as a track car, and thats my final answer.
Everyone isn't going to agree with my take on oils. I've been told I'm wrong because the other forums say to use a thicker oil, and all these guys at the track do it too, and they are fine.
It sucks being scientific sometimes. I'm simply going by the readouts I see on my gauges and how the car reacts. I do alot of data logging as I do testing, so these are the numbers I watch. People can choose what oil they want. I take pride in trying to dispense some knowledge, and run a top notch 0w20 with no issues on the track. I'll have more hard data in the coming months. I take fluid mechanics and fluid dynamics seriously. More damage is done running the wrong oil in the right weight, and even more damage can occur running the wrong weight. Thicker could be hurting your motor. I wouldnt mix in much more than half a fill of the GC 0w-30 or preferably the Lubro 0w30 if you really want to. I will do so only under triple digit track temps, and only for track use.
YMMV, thanks for reading and good luck!
Can I use water alone in my cooling system?
Please use the fluid recommended in your owner's manual, or Amsoil Antifreeze and Engine Coolant This will have the correct mixture of lubricants and anti-corrosive properties to keep your cooling system happy. Add to this Amsoil Dominator Coolant Boost in the recommended amount, and your cooling system will be happy for many years to come.
If you are unsure what is needed by your vehicle, the Amsoil Antifreeze and Engine Coolant is compatible with all antifreeze and coolant formulations on the market.
Why use LuberFiner OEM Replacement Filters?
Luberfiner filters are quality made filters brought to you by Champion Laboratories, the same people who manufacture and distribute oil filters for the following brands:
This clearly shows the level of performance that you can expect from this brand.
All Luberfiner oil filters that I have in the local market have both anti-drainback valves and bypass valves.
Bypass valves ensure you have oil flow throughout your engine in the unlikely event that your oil filter media becomes plugged.
Bypass valves also ensure that the oil filter media does not collapse and subsequently starve the engine of oil.
Some of the orange filters do not have this valve, and I personally know of someone (October 2010) looking for a new model Hilux engine due to the use of the wrong orange filter.
Have you ever started your vehicle after a long period, say Monday morning after a slow weekend, and you were greeted to loud noises from the engine, which lasted a second or two and then went away?
Well, this is caused by your oil filter which either lacks an anti-drainback valve, or has
an ineffective anti-drainback valve. Using a Luberfiner filter will eliminate noisy starts caused by ineffective or absent anti-drainback valves. More wear occurs on engine startup than while the engine is running, so it is essential to use quality filters as exemplified by the Luberfiner range of products.
You can clearly trust your engine's life and performance to Luberfiner.
Luberfiner Oil Filter Application Guide
PH2835 (interchange for Purolator 10241)
Suzuki - Swift (2004 - present), Vitara (new model)
Toyota - Camry, Corolla, Yaris
Nissan (old) - RB20, RB25, RB26, CA16, CA18, GA13, GA14, GA15, GA16
PH2808 (interchange for Purolator L14459)
Nissan (New) - SR, VQ, QG, MR
Mistsubishi - Most gasoline
Mazda - Most gasoline
Honda - All
Contact me if your application is not listed, and I can advise you appropriately.
Why use Royal Purple Filters?
In the independent user test below, note the low ISO particle count on the Royal Purple filter, and compare it to the Purolator Pure One, Mobil 1 and Amsoil EaO. Smaller numbers indicate better filtration. Also, the filter was used for 10k miles (16k km). The filter is clearly not overloaded as the particle counts would have increased. Excellent results!
Taken from this thread from the forum on Bob Is The Oil Guy
The Royal Purple filter is literally in another league when it come to particle removal and lifetime.
Why use Redline SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner?
Review of Redline SI-1
An exceptional product when it comes to maintaining fuel injector and fuel system cleanliness. In summary, this keeps your car at peak performace and economy.
Link detail belowEurodavid wrote:**********************************************************************
January 6, 2009
Amazon.com Verified Purchase(Y)
This review is for: Red Line SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner - 15 Ounce, Pack of 12 ($69.99)
By Glenn Carpenter (Golden, Colorado)
Among all fuel system cleaners I'm aware of, Redline SI-1 contains the highest quantity per dollar (based on manufacturer MSDS) of the critical fuel-system-cleaning compounds known as polyether amines (PEA). Primarily for this reason I believe SI-1 to be the best available and most cost-effective fuel system cleaner product at retail pricing. At the current price per bottle when bought by the case right here on Amazon ($5.30) it is a bargain (12/15/09 edit: the price here has almost doubled since I wrote this and it is now, unfortunately, far from a bargain).
In my case it has not been necessary to use Redline's recommended quantity of approximately 3 oz per fill-up. The effects of 1 oz per fill-up are indistinguishable in terms of tested results (see my basis for this statement below). This results in an approximate cost of $0.35/tank or less than a tenth of a penny per mile. A full case at this usage rate is enough to treat 180 full tanks of fuel or to last approximately 80,000 miles. (Figures based 15gal/tank, 25-35mpg).
As far as I know, every effective fuel system cleaner on the market uses a class of compounds known as polyether amines (PEA), in varying proportions, to effectively clean deposits from fuel system components, and particularly from fuel injectors, which can quickly impact engine efficiency and performance when not operating correctly. My understanding is that these compounds were first developed by Chevron and sold under the Techron name, and have since been made available to other blenders of fuel treatment products. Until recently BG 44K, Chevron Techron Concentrate, Gumout Regane Fuel System Cleaner, Amsoil P.I. Performance Improver Concentrate, and Redline SI-1 (among others) listed polyether amines on their Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) in proportions varying from approximately 25% to 50%. Most of these products no longer list PEA on their MSDS, having changed their terminology to disguise the precise nature of their products' constituent components. Whether PEA is still contained in those products is a matter of uncertainty. As of this writing Redline's SI-1 MSDS still specifies that the product contains 30-50% PEA. Consequently it is one of the few remaining fuel system cleaner products that undoubtedly does contain PEA in significant quantity.
I have been able to test the efficacy of fuel system cleaners in one of my own vehicles using a method I stumbled on after having its injectors professionally cleaned while out of the vehicle. The car in question uses a Bosch engine management system that reports fuel injector data to an on-board computer, which then uses that data to calculate and report instantaneous and average mpg to the driver. I noted after the professional cleaning that the accuracy of the reported mpg, when used to measure average mpg over each full tank of fuel, improved suddenly from a prior error of around -3% - -5% (that is, the reported mpg was ~3-5% below the actual mpg, or typically just over 1mpg low) to an error as close to zero as I could measure (that is, usually between -1% and 1%, fluctuating above and below a perfect "match"). This can be explained on the basis that the engine management system will compensate for a dirty injector by holding the injectors open slightly longer during each combustion cycle, in order to admit the proper amount of fuel. The on-board computer interprets that as a slightly higher rate of fuel consumption, reporting a lower-than-actual mpg figure.
After several thousand miles - not long - the perfect mpg accuracy I'd noticed began to deteriorate, likely indicating that the cleaned injectors were beginning to suffer from some sort of renewed impedance to fuel flow. Out of a desire to retain near-perfect injector performance, and also out of curiosity, I started experimenting with various commercially-available fuel system cleaners and keeping records of the results at each fill-up.
Leaving out the long details, I'll simply say here that the results were surprisingly clear and unambiguous. Each time I went several tanks without using a fuel system cleaner (usually as a result of simply forgetting to use it or not taking the trouble), the on-board computer (OBC) accuracy would deteriorate. This would fluctuate from tank to tank, of course, as a result of inevitable measurement errors, but the trend was very clear even over a small number of fill-ups. Returning to the use of a fuel system cleaner (Chevron Techron Concentrate, Gumout Regane or SI-1, all of which at the time did contain PEA), the accuracy would improve again very quickly - within 2-3 fill-ups. I began using the SI-1 exclusively seven months ago based on its apparent cost-effectiveness and since then I have reduced the quantity I use in each tank to the current 1oz per ~15gal fill-up. The results remain unambiguous. If I use this small amount of SI-1 consistently, the accuracy of the on-board computer is excellent, with an average error of below 1%, or a fraction the error rate seen when not using such a product.
Based on the above I feel I can confidently conclude that SI-1 works very well, even at reduced treatment rates, at keeping fuel injectors clean. Fuel system types and injectors will vary, and other parts of the fuel system - for example intake valves and combustion chambers - might benefit from higher treatment rates (or, conceivably, might not benefit at all). Actual engine efficiency will not vary nearly as much as injector cleanliness, since the engine feedback system normally corrects for imperfect injector flow rates. However, as the flow is more greatly impeded, or impeded differentially among the individual injectors, mpg will be affected to some degree. I feel it is well worth the tiny cost to consistently use a small quantity of SI-1. Other benefits, such as to combustion efficiency as a result of combustion chamber cleanliness, to volumetric efficiency as a result of intake valve cleanliness, and to fuel system lubrication, probably exist as well although I can not evaluate them and have not attempted to do so. Other fuel system cleaners may work as effectively, or nearly as effectively, but I do not believe them to be as good in terms of value per dollar spent.
In my experimentation I did try some less expensive fuel system cleaners, those not containing PEA. They appeared to have no effect. I can not categorically state that only PEA-containing fuel system cleaners work, of course, but my observations did match the conventional wisdom on this point. I also experimented with using top-tier fuels only, without any additional fuel system cleaners. The results were the same as when using non-detergent (Costco and others) fuels. I don't doubt that top tier fuels contain small amounts of cleaners and will keep a fuel system functionally and acceptably clean, but the quantities involved are reputed to be tiny and my observations seem to indicate that even a small amount of additional additive is far more effective.
The Importance of Cetane in Diesel Fuels
What is Cetane Number?
Cetane number is a measure of the ignition quality of a diesel fuel. It is often mistaken as a measure of fuel quality. Cetane number is actually a measure of a fuel's ignition delay. This is the time period between the start of injection and start of combustion (ignition) of the fuel. In a particular diesel engine, higher cetane fuels will have shorter ignition delay periods than lower cetane fuels.
Determining Cetane Number
The optical method for determining cetane number is ASTM test D-613. This method requires the use of an industry standard test engine equipped with accepted instrumentation and operated under specific conditions. In this test, the engine compression ratio is varied for the test sample and reference fuels of known cetane number to obtain a fixed ignition delay. The cetane number of the sample fuel is determined by estimating between the two reference fuel points.
How Does Cetane Number Affect Engine Operation?
There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTN Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states. "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number.
Diesel fuels with cetane number lower than minimum engine requirements can cause rough engine operation. They are more difficult to start, especially in cold weather or at high altitudes. They accelerate lube oil sludge formation. Many low cetane fuels increase engine deposits resulting in more smoke, increased exhaust emissions and greater engine wear.
Using fuels which meet engine operating requirements will improve cold starting, reduce smoke during start-up, improve fuel economy, reduce exhaust emissions, improve engine durability and reduce noise and vibration. These engine fuel requirements are published in the operating manual for each specific engine or vehicle.
A cetane number which is too high may cause too short an ignition delay period. This changes the timing of the pressure peak, resulting in loss of power. When this happens, many of the performance problems associated with low cetane fuel will result. While the problems due to low cetane largely disappear after the engine warms up, with too high a cetane, these problems will persist even with a hot engine.
Cetane Improvers / Ignition Accelerators
U.S. diesel fuels are blends of distillate fuels and cracked petroleum hydrocarbons. The cracked hydrocarbons are low cetane compounds, largely due to their aromatic content. To meet the cetane number demands of most diesel engines, cetane improvers must be added to these blends. The lower cetane cracked compounds are less responsive to these cetane improvers than the higher cetane paraffinic fuels.
Cetane improvers modify combustion in the engine. They encourage early and uniform ignition of the fuel. They discourage premature combustion and excessive rate of pressure increase in the combustion cycle. Depending on the amount of high versus low cetane components in the base fuel, typically alkyl nitrate additive treatments can increase cetane by about 3 to 5 numbers (1:1000 treatment ratio). With high natural cetane premium base buels (containing a high percentage of parafins) and a 1:500 treatment ratio, cetane may increase up to a maximum of about 7 numbers.
Most cetane improvers contain alkyl nitrates which break down readily to provide additional oxygen for better combustion. They also break down and oxidize fuel in storage. This generates organic particulates, water, and sludge - all of which degrade fuel quality. The result is often a fuel which no longer meets even minimum requirements.
Excerpts from "Importance of Cetane" article courtesy of PMC Technologies Inc.
Big Z wrote:Thanks.. that's old stock they have, hence the price. Cost has gone up in recent months.
Users browsing this forum: Baidu [Spider], Yahoo [Bot] and 4 guests