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hmm i think i missing that pin in the center there on my shifter... anyone have a spare shift rod to sell or the pin or whatever?

JDM guy?

how d shifter feels now ?

sti7 wrote:how d shifter feels now ?

Firm.... Def feel better. But i think I want a dual bend shifter. Will think about it as its very expensive.

Havent updated in a while. On the weekend of the 26th I have some major work planed so look out for the updates

Cleaned up a bit today for the long weekend, next week the real work starts.

Major work?

^ maybe the man gonna build a Monster

Nah guys just maintenance, have to replace a bunch of parts for Autocross 3. Got some parts in the mail today:






My blew at the last Autocross event, will be replacing this weekend.

car looking good still man..nice...wish to see it in real

did u get the master also ?

* Fozzy * wrote:did u get the master also ?

Master is ok... Dont need swapping yet.

Started the repairs after work on Thursday:

Tools:







Up in the air and on jack stands:


Wheels off and ready to be scraped:


Loosen the upper control arm bolts to take a look at the bushings on the camber kit, oh boy was I in for a surprise:





Upper arms off:




Turned out I had a bad camber ball joint so that would explain the off alinement of the wheel:



Gave the arms a little clean:


Put some tape to mark where the camber kit goes:


The bushings on the arms looked good but when I properly looked I saw they were ripping, thank god I had a set of ES bushings put down in case this happened:



With time passing on Thursday I went to the nearest parts shop to get a 555 ball joint. Set me back $175.00. But I needed it to head to couva the next morning to get the kit sorted out.

Friday morning 8am reached couva to deal with ball joints and bushings:


Got my friends swift sport for the trip, dam thing have better handling than my civic. I need some coils.

The machinest did a fine job with only costing me $300 for balljoint install and bushings burn and press.
New 555 balljoint installed:



ES bushings installed after they burned out the old bush:


A little burnt paint but no one needs to see that under the car:





Oh my there she sits waiting to be loved:


So time to reinstall the arms:





Installed with pin:




Next was to service the brakes, got the proper pin silicon grease:



Pins with old grease, see how hard it gets because of the heat:


All cleaned up:


New silicon grease:



The upper was in the worse condition, and to think I just service them last year, I could only image those that have never been serviced:


Cleaned:


Took the pads out and used a steal brush and gave them a good clean:


All done and remounted, gosh they need a sand and pint. Next project...



Time to deal with that leaking clutch slave, so took out the old one, wasnt that hard just need the right tools.
Leaky bastered:



New NISSIN straight from HONDA:


Used belray grease on the tip:



Installed and bled, work done:

nice ... had fun installing the arms with the ES bushings ?

where did u get the brake grease?

Why didn't you go with replacements for the ball joint?
Should be cheaper than buying the 555 and retrofitting it?

Or its modded so the 555 can work without machine work again

JDM_GUY wrote:

* Fozzy * wrote:did u get the master also ?

Master is ok... Dont need swapping yet.

you should of placed a order , sometimes when u change the slave the master goes a short time after , saw a power seller had in stock don't know the brand thou

red_dragon wrote:nice ... had fun installing the arms with the ES bushings ?

where did u get the brake grease?

Machine shop did everything for me. I got the grease in Arima $15.00tt a pack with 2. I could get for you and drop off in south if you want.

sound boy 64

The skunk 2 ball joints are crap, they only last about 1 year ($350tt), I bought this camber kit last year jan and by july the left side went and iam sure the right side blew long before I noticed.
The 555 retro fit ensures me of a quick fix next time, all i have to to is press out the old ball joint and press in the new one. Its that simple, I don't ever have to machine the camber plates.

Nah Moe ment installing the arms on the car.....

thanks for the offer

will let you know

JDM_GUY wrote:

run looks nice i think i mite start coming to those events and trying it for fun

as u wher saying its only 1st 2nd & 3rd ,

nex event i will try to make it

JDM_GUY I have a question..what issues occur when the pins (pistons) in the calliper don't have grease.. I noticed you cleaned them up nicely.. was just wondering so i'd know if i get any specific problem it could probably be that.

JJ16 wrote:JDM_GUY I have a question..what issues occur when the pins (pistons) in the calliper don't have grease.. I noticed you cleaned them up nicely.. was just wondering so i'd know if i get any specific problem it could probably be that.

You will notice one side cutting the pad more than the other. I notice that on the left side hence the reason I bought the correct grease and did the job.

JDM_GUY wrote:

JJ16 wrote:JDM_GUY I have a question..what issues occur when the pins (pistons) in the calliper don't have grease.. I noticed you cleaned them up nicely.. was just wondering so i'd know if i get any specific problem it could probably be that.

You will notice one side cutting the pad more than the other. I notice that on the left side hence the reason I bought the correct grease and did the job.

or the brakes will lock when u mash and take a while to release , happened to mines when i installed the DC2 once greased up works bess

Okay because I am getting a strange problem with my brakes, so i was wondering if that could have been the cause, its a rather odd cricking noise when i mash the brakes..and its a rotational noise... i would still do that this week as I wanna rebuild my entire calliper

Thanks.

JJ16 wrote:Okay because I am getting a strange problem with my brakes, so i was wondering if that could have been the cause, its a rather odd cricking noise when i mash the brakes..and its a rotational noise... i would still do that this week as I wanna rebuild my entire calliper

Thanks.

that could be the little clips / sliver things that go between the 2 pads sometimes when its not set properly they make noise

or na, my brake setup is different...but thanks a lot, id do some digging around.. had it before with my other car, can't remember what caused it...but id dig around and hopefully it stops.

Did a 7000km service today, posted some pics of the things done, hope you guys enjoy as much as me.

Jacked up:




Tools for the job


Drained oil




Got some scratch on the sump pan





Old and new filter, primed with fresh oil






Time to service the spoon sports TB, took of the intake:


Shot of the TB


Cleaner used



All cleaned up



Decided to pull the plugs and give them a clean






Fresh oil in




All done, so mounted up and washed down the bay, then started up to burn off the water

Moe ... 7000km service ??? how u came up with that

red_dragon wrote:Moe ... 7000km service ??? how u came up with that

When we sit in traffic all morning and afternoon 5 days a week for 45mins a trip. I add 1000km. Then our hot climate synthetic oils you can run to 10000km, so I just run it to 8000km to be safe, 7000km driving and the traffic 1000km.

I have been doing that since the black civic days.

JDM_GUY wrote:

red_dragon wrote:Moe ... 7000km service ??? how u came up with that

When we sit in traffic all morning and afternoon 5 days a week for 45mins a trip. I add 1000km. Then our hot climate synthetic oils you can run to 10000km, so I just run it to 8000km to be safe, 7000km driving and the traffic 1000km.

I have been doing that since the black civic days.

i don't agree on the above , 7000 km u say dey , it cost 350 to change oil and filter i will stick to the regular 5000 km rather spend $$$$ to rebuild a engine after

i change my oil every 4500 km on the dot don't trust this 10 000 km thing

how muc oil do u top up in between oil change im guessing a qrt and more ?