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ok so here is the deal I bought a civic which has a b16 A motor an transmission
Problem is when I am driving probably about 2000 rpm or so the cars starts to sputter drastic lost of power the vtec wont kick unless i sink the gas pedal right down an even when the vtec kick the car stills sputter an no drastic power increase
car idles fine if i rev the car while on park on netural i dont seems to feel or hear the sputter only smell something I cant explain lol please any one that can be of assistance or if u know any one that mite be able to help. BTW the car drives fine once i keep under that certain rpm range
thanks alot guys

Most likely this sounds like the oil you're using isn't able to activate the vtec. Amsoil or shell is required for this application.

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anderson.. wrote:Most likely this sounds like the oil you're using isn't able to activate the vtec. Amsoil or shell is required for this application.

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when the car is on park or netural the vtec works also if i sink the gas on drive it works
sputtering starts from about 2000 rpm or maybe a little higher but less than vtec engagement
oil changed was done last month shell was used idk the body thoo

10w 30 or 10w 40 is required. Remember that is a high performance engine. The factory recommended is 5w 30. Amsoil will surely do the trick. However, you should run a diagnostic first; if there are no error codes showing up, then you know is the oil. I know amsoil is a bit costly but this oil will last you at least three times the life of your regular oil. Just have to change the filter every three months, depending on how much mileage you cover.

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anderson.. wrote:10w 30 or 10w 40 is required. Remember that is a high performance engine. The factory recommended is 5w 30. Amsoil will surely do the trick. However, you should run a diagnostic first; if there are no error codes showing up, then you know is the oil. I know amsoil is a bit costly but this oil will last you at least three times the life of your regular oil. Just have to change the filter every three months, depending on how much mileage you cover.

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ok kool i will try the oil change but will that fix the sputtering before vtec engagement?

Run a diagnostic first to ensure its no sensor. The cause for the vtec to act up like this is because the oil isn't thin enough to actually engage the vtec. This will eventually damage it. Please stick to the factory recommended oil and not trini machanic recommended..lol. the manufacturer recommends the specific oil for a reason. Btw Your spark plugs are good right.. and you didn't have an engine wash recently. .

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anderson.. wrote:Run a diagnostic first to ensure its no sensor. The cause for the vtec to act up like this is because the oil isn't thin enough to actually engage the vtec. This will eventually damage it. Please stick to the factory recommended oil and not trini machanic recommended..lol. the manufacturer recommends the specific oil for a reason. Btw Your spark plugs are good right.. and you didn't have an engine wash recently. .

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no engine wash was done, the oil is a 10w 30 had it confirmed just now spark plugs and wires are good, wires changed, also no check engine light is coming on can the sputtering be the idle air control valve need cleaning or something any ways u know any good honda mech out there

Yes where you're from. I can put you on to someone. You can service that sensor yourself though. Just carefully remove it and use a QD crc spray to clean it. Do not touch the internals; just spray; don't matter how dirty it may look ok. Not even cotton. Pm me your location; will see what I can do.

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check the ignition( dizzy , plug wires , plugs) and fuel filter

ensure they installed the correct plugs

I highly doubt it would be the oil.

I've used 10-40 (amsoil), 20-50 (valvoline) and currently use 10-30 (Honda Genuine) oil's. Plus ive never heard of oil causing such a problem... i cant see any of those oil's causing your vtec to malfunction.

You cannot always use 10-30 oil as your engine **since a b16a is OLD** may burn the oil extremely fast, and you'd need to use a thicker oil (10-40 / 20-50)

I agree with dragon though, most likely it could be ignition problems....check the ICM which controls (contributes) to the RPM..

Not seeing it to be the IACV as you say the car idles fine.

Have you checked your TPS? (close throttle (.5v) open throttle (4.5v-5.0v)

Can also be the Coil, but i doubt... the ICM may have a better possibility. Spark plugs & / wires.

(Timing, Distributor)

(check fuel pressure/filter/pump)

IN this order you can tackle the problem...
- IF you can, have someone check the timing (on cam gears) ensure it is set correctly, then check distributor timing.

- ICM (Module) *in distributor* see if you can get one borrowed before buying 2 confirm it may be the problem.

- Coil (likewise see if you can get one borrowed)

- Spark plugs & wires (see if you can borrow some wires before purchasing new ones)

- (check fuel pressure)

Lastly check distributor.. **once again see if you can get one borrowed**


ALL of these you can do it yourself at home with basic tools, dont need a mechanic to do it..


remember to update us...

thanks for all ur replys guys
well im from Siparia, ok so i tried my friends dizzy but still no luck plugs are new iradium sm sm idk the specs wat not new plug wires were also bought some time ago i think im gonna run a scan in the morning
idk wats the icm nor the tps if anyone can help
some other problems ive been getting also is some times bounce the starter to start an the car cut back off now when this happends if i try to start again it starts good on the second time. could this possible be my pump causing this whole problem?
next question why does it not sputter on park or neutral only does it on a gear? in other words when the car geh strain at that rpm it just starts to sputter
this ting reel fustrating, the ting is the car works good just the sputtering at that certain rpm an onwards

Bro check ur fuel pressure could be pump or clogged fuel pump filter. I had similar problems with d15b. Wouldn't hurt to check your regulator one time

Check your ignition timing

rodney117 wrote:thanks for all ur replys guys
well im from Siparia, ok so i tried my friends dizzy but still no luck plugs are new iradium sm sm idk the specs wat not new plug wires were also bought some time ago i think im gonna run a scan in the morning
idk wats the icm nor the tps if anyone can help
some other problems ive been getting also is some times bounce the starter to start an the car cut back off now when this happends if i try to start again it starts good on the second time. could this possible be my pump causing this whole problem?
next question why does it not sputter on park or neutral only does it on a gear? in other words when the car geh strain at that rpm it just starts to sputter
this ting reel fustrating, the ting is the car works good just the sputtering at that certain rpm an onwards

The ICM is the module inside the coil, i'd post a pic later when i get home.

Also like i said as well as def, check your timing to ensure its correct.

ok so fuel filter good fuel pressure good
I was talking to a mechanic today an he said that it can be a current problem
OR AN GUYS I FORGOT TO MENTIONED SOMETHING RITE BEFORE THE CAR STARTS TO SPUTTER THE RPM GUAGE WILL START TO MOVE UP AN DOWN CRAZY STAYING CLOSE TO THE RPM THAT THE ENGINE IS IN but doesnt follow the sputter exactly .
didnt mention it before because i taught it was just the rpm sensor or warever was bad but then it hits me that the rpm guage works perfectly only when the car itself sputter then the guage move crazy
crazyness any advice

anderson.. wrote:Most likely this sounds like the oil you're using isn't able to activate the vtec. Amsoil or shell is required for this application.

Sent from my GT-I8190 using TriniTuner mobile app

ANYBODY read this?

Anyhoo, last time i had this problem, my injectors were clogged. I cleaned them and I was ok. Didnt see this listed as an option in any of the responses above.

Its your Throttle position sensor (aka TPS)....it either needs adjusting or replacing
(its not oil, oil wont cause that and if it idles fine and revs fine its not electrical)
when i recently re-build my B16a i had the same problem, after 2k RPM the car bucked and sputtered as if its losing fuel or spark, turn out it was just the TPS, the ecu wasn't getting a correct signal that the trottle is open and that caused the bucking....check a mechanic and let him adjust it first before you spend any money on anything else, to adjust it might only cost bout $50 depending on the mechanic

Your TPS is located on the throttle body...lol

^^ thats why i gave him the correct figures about, anyone can do it...its a DIY process..just buy a multimeter, you would spend the same amount but this time you'd acquire the actual tool 2 do it next time

However, a bad TPS is suppose 2 give a checklight btw..as well as the map sensor... i suppose 2 have spare of both, i mean if you want assistance its no problem. And yes its all FREE

JJ16 wrote:^^ thats why i gave him the correct figures about, anyone can do it...its a DIY process..just buy a multimeter, you would spend the same amount but this time you'd acquire the actual tool 2 do it next time

However, a bad TPS is suppose 2 give a checklight btw..as well as the map sensor... i suppose 2 have spare of both, i mean if you want assistance its no problem. And yes its all FREE

thats sounds good to me u see i just want the car fix
[notice today when the ac is on the car is idling very slow an it causes vibration]
hmmmm thanks again guys

also check the IAC (idle air controller).. might be faulty or just need cleaning

JJ16 wrote:^^ thats why i gave him the correct figures about, anyone can do it...its a DIY process..just buy a multimeter, you would spend the same amount but this time you'd acquire the actual tool 2 do it next time

However, a bad TPS is suppose 2 give a checklight btw..as well as the map sensor... i suppose 2 have spare of both, i mean if you want assistance its no problem. And yes its all FREE

my check light didn't come on either when i had the problem......the TPS probably good just needs adjusting then, cuz thats what the mechanic did and it went away for me

Yea corolla I not disagreeing with you. I told him 2 check for the adjustment also if its BAD meaning if its not good then you'd get the light na.

But I have a whole heap of spare parts cause I like having extras for this reason.

ok so one of my friends take a look at it today he is a kinda mechanic he know he ting i guess anyhow when he press the gas pedal even on neutral the car did it maybe i didnt press hard enough or sm but he said that it sounds like a rev limiter [war dat be?]. The car did not keep building in rpm when we started hearing it, but drop an went back up, then we started smelling lots of burnt fuel

It could be as simple as a sensor, ECU, electrical problem etc.

The only thing to solve this, or the best thing is the process of elimination

JJ16 wrote:It could be as simple as a sensor, ECU, electrical problem etc.

The only thing to solve this, or the best thing is the process of elimination

ok so I tried a new ecu today an same problem even put my ecu in a friends car an it work perfectly

Since u have parts to swap try and get a distributor to try

red_dragon wrote:Since u have parts to swap try and get a distributor to try

trying to get one rite now but not getting any dont wanna buy one an then its not the problem

ok guys this thing seems to be getting worst today i was driving up the creek to san fernando about 70 km about 2500 rpm an the car started to sputter rite there an then it happend for about 5 sec then stop when i reach la romain driving about 40km thru traffic the rpm went from about 1800 to flat 0
i cudnt tell if the car was on still or not, i press on the gas aggressively an the rpm then shot back up an started to act normal again what can this really be ???

Your problem can be two possibilities one the coil module in your distributor you can upgrade one time to an external coil such as msd it may solve the problem. Malfunctions of the coil causes the car to sputter at low revs and also causes erratic rpm guage readings. The other problem you are having can be caused by a grounding fault also, it means you are having a short in the grounding system that causes a voltage drop which in turns causes the sputtering or misfiring.