Brake Bleeding (hand vacuum)

[X_Factor]

might buy one of those hand vacuum brake bleeder...is it as easy as the youtube vids make it to be?
on a nissan note, which wheel do i start first as well as how much brake fluid would be sufficient to complete the job?
What is the best dot 4 brake fluid available locally?

[nick639v2]

I think rule of thumb is the wheel with the longest brake line (open to correction).

1 bottle of dot 4 castrol was enough for me to change out and bleed my system in a y11 by a mechanic.

[X_Factor]

how much was that?
1 liter or less?

[StreetKings]

Always start at the wheel that is furthest away from the master cylinder / the one with the longest brake line. On a right hand drive vehicle you would start at the back left, then do the back right, then the front left and last the front right. And the amount of fulid depends on if your just bleeding or doing a complete brake fluid change. A 500ml should be enough for normal bleeding.

[X_Factor]

I will be doing a complete fluid change
if its gonna be 1liter or less i can get the Ate or pentosin

[nick639v2]

I will be doing a complete fluid change
if its gonna be 1liter or less i can get the Ate or pentosin

Yea 1 litre will be enough...

This is my exact setup and way of changing and bleeding lines years now...

https://youtu.be/n1NvtUwfRJc

[nick639v2]

Also go with dot 3 if the car came with it or manual specifies it.. changing to dot 4 will give squishy/hard brakes because of the change in viscosities

[X_Factor]

manufacturer states dot 4
whats the best fluid available locally?

[nick639v2]

Well stick with the dot 4 if the car was designed for it.

i’ve only used castrol and valvoline. No problems

[deivid]

the hand vacuum pump is a great investment......i have one here for over a year for pressure sensors as well as bleeding brakes lines haven't seen or heard much of it on the local scene

[*KRONIK*]

manufacturer states dot 4
whats the best fluid available locally?

Fullstop in endevour has bosch

I used that for years on my swift with zero issues.

Note: dot4 withstands higher temperatures but also absorbs water faster than dot3, so you will have to do more frequent fluid flushes because if the fluid absorbs too much moisture it can boil under severe heat

[Ted_v2]

the vacumm bleeder is a good tool for a DIY, i have a small tool i bought for 50$,

its a bottle with a magnet on the side, tube going straight below fluid level and a long piece of hose.

[Musical Doc]

I bled my brakes over the weekend and got fluid at all 4 wheels, but I realized in the master cylinder, only the fluid in the front chamber was going down and the back chamber remained full. Shouldn't both chambers go down?

[adnj]

The fluid level in both should have dropped because the chambers in a dual-reservoir brake master cylinder are not interconnected. Typically, the rear chamber is for the front calipers and it has a larger capacity than front chamber for the rear brakes.

You may not have noticed because of less fluid loss for bleeding the shorter front lines in addition to the larger capacity of the chamber. Sometimes, you may have more air volume in the rear brake lines because of the length of the lines and you simply replaced it while bleeding.

[Musical Doc]

The fluid level in both should have dropped because the chambers in a dual-reservoir brake master cylinder are not interconnected. Typically, the rear chamber is for the front calipers and it has a larger capacity than front chamber for the rear brakes.

You may not have noticed because of less fluid loss for bleeding the shorter front lines in addition to the larger capacity of the chamber. Sometimes, you may have more air volume in the rear brake lines because of the length of the lines and you simply replaced it while bleeding.

Thanks for your reply, actually, the rear camber did not go down at all, it was just the front chamber going down. Each time I bled a wheel I refilled and noticed this. My brakes have not been holding as effectively as before even tho I changed brake pads, changed master cylinder and both rear wheel cylinders which were leaking. So I'm wondering if that line on that rear chamber has a problem or the abs pump?

[adnj]

Rear drum cylinder replacement will require fluid to fill the cylinders. It will also allow air to enter your rear brake system circuit.

You may also have a rear proportioning valve that hid most of the fluid loss from being seen. That part of the circuit may still have air. If so, the entire system will require bleeding according to the OEM procedure.

[kamakazi]

Might be vehicle specific, but in my experience the brakes are fed crossways. Front left with rear right and front right with rear left.

With regards to the brakes not holding... Cheap brake pads, brakes not bedded in, uneven rotor surface...

[Musical Doc]

Might be vehicle specific, but in my experience the brakes are fed crossways. Front left with rear right and front right with rear left.

With regards to the brakes not holding... Cheap brake pads, brakes not bedded in, uneven rotor surface...

I was getting this problem since last yr, changed to bosch brake pads, new rotors, changed master cylinder and brakes still holding the same way and this weekend I changed the 2 slightly leaking wheel cylinders at the back. Previously I used to mash brakes with my big toe. Now I have to put some force on it to stop. It is working, but not as effectively as before. So I'm wondering if that observation about the reservoir has anything to do with it

[sMASH]

Might be vehicle specific, but in my experience the brakes are fed crossways. Front left with rear right and front right with rear left.

With regards to the brakes not holding... Cheap brake pads, brakes not bedded in, uneven rotor surface...

I was getting this problem since last yr, changed to bosch brake pads, new rotors, changed master cylinder and brakes still holding the same way and this weekend I changed the 2 slightly leaking wheel cylinders at the back. Previously I used to mash brakes with my big toe. Now I have to put some force on it to stop. It is working, but not as effectively as before. So I'm wondering if that observation about the reservoir has anything to do with it

Vacuum system holding?

[adnj]

Might be vehicle specific, but in my experience the brakes are fed crossways. Front left with rear right and front right with rear left.

With regards to the brakes not holding... Cheap brake pads, brakes not bedded in, uneven rotor surface...

If you have front disc/rear drum brakes, the design is typically a front/rear dual system.

IIRC, older ABS equipped systems were cross-linked to reduce skidding. Most motorcycle brake systems are linked for the same reason.

[kamakazi]

Would like to know what vehicle it is

My observation is that if there is a single reservoir feeding two brake circuits, the partition in the reservoir only goes part of the way up; like 50% of the way up. So any fluid filled above 50% overflows into the next partition.

If you are looking for grabby brakes... Bosch newer formulation might not be what you are looking for, but you have them already so use them.

Have you tried bedding in your brakes.

I like mintex but it is a bit sketchy when new. They off gas a lot... But after that phase they are pretty good.

[Musical Doc]

Might be vehicle specific, but in my experience the brakes are fed crossways. Front left with rear right and front right with rear left.

With regards to the brakes not holding... Cheap brake pads, brakes not bedded in, uneven rotor surface...

I was getting this problem since last yr, changed to bosch brake pads, new rotors, changed master cylinder and brakes still holding the same way and this weekend I changed the 2 slightly leaking wheel cylinders at the back. Previously I used to mash brakes with my big toe. Now I have to put some force on it to stop. It is working, but not as effectively as before. So I'm wondering if that observation about the reservoir has anything to do with it

Vacuum system holding?

Yes it is

[Musical Doc]

Would like to know what vehicle it is

My observation is that if there is a single reservoir feeding two brake circuits, the partition in the reservoir only goes part of the way up; like 50% of the way up. So any fluid filled above 50% overflows into the next partition.

If you are looking for grabby brakes... Bosch newer formulation might not be what you are looking for, but you have them already so use them.

Have you tried bedding in your brakes.

I like mintex but it is a bit sketchy when new. They off gas a lot... But after that phase they are pretty good.

It's a tiida. My last brake pads were original nissan and when the effectiveness started getting reduced, I thought maybe the brake pads were low, it was but still coulda run a couple months. Rotors had a couple lines so I changed rotors one time. Even after that it still wasn't holding like it used to.

On the fb tiida group bosch was highly recommended so I decided to try that.

About the reservoir, I agree that is how it shoulda work. But when I was bleeding, the front reservoir was the one going down and the back one didn't move at all. Would that front reservoir line feed all 4 wheels? or is it completely separate?I

When I get some time, I may probably disconnect that line at the ABS box and see if fluid comes through when I pump the brakes.

[Dave]

Check your rotor thickness. See if it's past or close to the minimum thickness and replace.

Also check the vacuum out your booster.