TriniTuner.com  |  Latest Event:  

Forums

Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Tuning advice, problems and troubleshooting

Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods

kamakazi
punchin NOS
Posts: 2906
Joined: February 14th, 2009, 10:32 am

Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby kamakazi » May 2nd, 2021, 8:11 pm

Vehicle Manufacturers recommend extended service intervals to lower the cost of ownership calculations; they only need the vehicle to last for the warranty period. They don't really care about what happens after the warranty.

Dealers generally follow the manufacturer's recommendations, leaning to the severe service interval side of things but only in regards to engine oil. The remaining service items don't usually have a severe service recommendation and some are misleading or just too long


Below I am listing what I do to service my vehicles. Some of these might be considered overkill but they are what I like to think of as a "keep it' service; as in you are planning to keep it running for as long as possible, after the warranty period. These vehicles are used on the road and are not tracked or raced in any way. I do have some degree of mechanical sympathy, so I drive gently until the water temp at the very least is up to "normal". I also don't have to use a lot of brakes as all my vehicles seem to have somewhat strong drivetrain "braking"
These are the steps and items that currently work for me

Air filters
Usually replaced with OEM or quality aftermarket units as suggested in the manual

Oil and oil filter
For New Vehicles, consider changing the oil and filter after the first 1000kms of driving to remove engine Break-in wear material
Both are changed anywhere between 5000 and 7000km. Whichever oil is the cheapest, that meets the manufacturer's recommended spec (API, ACEA, etc) goes into the crankcase. Viscosity on the other hand I do not follow strictly. I'm not a fan of reduced viscosity for better fuel efficiency just yet so I don't select anything lower than sae 0w30. I also don't drive any hybrids, which might be my only reason for using a lower viscosity oil. At that point I'm not using anything lower than 0w20; 0w16 or whatever currently exists.
I usually prefer 5w40
I use Purolator manufactured oil filters mainly.

Fuel and fuel filter
Use some form of fuel system cleaner/lubricant at least every oil change. On port injection gas vehicles I use aftermarket filters. On common rail diesel engines or direct injection gas engines, I usually use OEM
Edit: try not to run your vehicle low on fuel for extended periods of time. Fuel is what cools your fuel pumps, and in the case of diesel it is also responsible for lubrication.


Power steering fluid
The volume in the reservoir is pulled and replaced at least once every oil change. Forget using a turkey baster... Get a battery water tool.
It is much better suited to the job. Again use the fluid with the factory recommended specification. Whatever is cheapest that meets the spec is going in there.

Brakes and brake fluid
I use street brake pads and shoes from well known companies (mintex, bosch, ferodo). They are usually ceramic or organic which are a lot less aggressive on rotor wear than metallic or semi-metallic pads. They usually have three good stops in them which is enough for street driving. This avoids having to replace rotors due to excessive wear; this doesn't work for euro brakes though as they achieve their breaking performance by using more aggressive pads that wear rotors faster. (Stay away from asbestos for health reasons).
The brake fluid is replaced every time new pads are installed. Before pushing the piston/s back into the caliper the bleed screw is "opened" to allow the fluid to bleed out. This prevents most of the fluid in the caliper from returning to the master cylinder. The brakes are then bled after the new pads/shoes are installed. Essentially the fluid only goes one way in the system and the fluid is constantly being refreshed.


Transmission fluid
Currently drained and refilled once every 4th or fifth oil change or about 30000kms. Depending on the color of the fluid the vehicle is allowed to run for about 1000kms and the transmission is drained and refilled a second time. I use the most affordable fluid that's specified. On a side note, most manufacturer fluids are an attempt by them to make more money. There are instances where the same transmission is used in different manufacturers vehicles and all have their own branded fluid as a recommendation. The only manufacturer that I still buy branded fluid for is Honda because they just do things differently. "Lifetime" transmission fluid is only meant to last through the warranty period of the vehicle. The transmission's longevity will suffer if lifetime fluid is not changed at regular intervals.

4wd diff and transfer case.
This depends on the volume of fluid in there. First change done at 40000kms and then 70000kms for every subsequent change. However anything with a capacity lower than 1 litre is going to get changed earlier and monitored. Clean the drain Plugs if they are magnetic

Spark plugs.
I use copper sparkplugs (regular ngk or denso for asian vehicles). They are affordable and work better than platinum or iridium plugs in my experience. They do however require more frequent changing which is there biggest drawback. (As much as I like copper plugs if I had a boxer engine I would use some long life platinum or iridium plug due to difficulty of access)

Rims and Tyres
The biggest tyre I can get away with on the smallest OEM/factory rim available to clear the brakes. The more rubber between rim and road generally means a more comfortable ride and less work for the suspension to do. This translates to less wear on suspension components. There is some trade off in steering response and cornering grip but given the condition of our roads I will take that trade off.

Cooling system
Simply draining and refilling to get rid of impurities in the system at 100000km. Advise to consider replacing the thermostat as well or closely monitor temp gauge as it gets up in mileage.

Doors and locks
Every so often use a dry lubricant film spray to keep door locks working properly. Also open doors and wind power windows down occasionally to ensure they are working.

A word on aftermarket parts.
Aftermarket doesn't mean cheap and there are decent products out there. Unfortunately, there are a lot of cheap aftermarket parts being sold. There are also counterfeits which make servicing that much more challenging.
I don't mind using some aftermarket parts, but I believe some parts are beneficial to get original. Selection is also swayed by how long a part has to remain in service or how difficult it is to access (on the vehicle or at the part shops). There are times when the original and the aftermarket are made by the same company. Everything should be assessed on its own merit.
Last edited by kamakazi on May 2nd, 2021, 8:11 pm, edited 5 times in total.

kamakazi
punchin NOS
Posts: 2906
Joined: February 14th, 2009, 10:32 am

Re: Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby kamakazi » July 28th, 2021, 12:50 am

If you have an older vehicle make sure and pull down the seatbelts that aren't always in use to prevent them from sticking

nitestalkerman
Riding on 13's
Posts: 5
Joined: September 2nd, 2008, 12:56 am

Re: Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby nitestalkerman » August 18th, 2021, 11:04 am

Excellent post.

Sundar
Riding on 17's
Posts: 1443
Joined: July 5th, 2012, 12:33 pm
Location: Rock Road
Contact:

Re: Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby Sundar » August 20th, 2021, 12:33 pm

kamakazi wrote:If you have an older vehicle make sure and pull down the seatbelts that aren't always in use to prevent them from sticking

Also Clean below the door window wiper rubber(rubs on the glass) and apply something to keep the rubber soft. Dust and grime builds up and gets hard which then scrapes your glass when you send down your window.

ahknow
Riding on 13's
Posts: 3
Joined: September 9th, 2013, 12:41 pm

Re: Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby ahknow » September 9th, 2021, 12:59 pm

Can you or anyone tell me where is the Ignition Control Module on a nissan y12? Can you send a picture? Where can I get one?
My coil pack #3 keeps blowing. I saw a post in trinituner that matched my issue and was rectified but i don't know what is the ignition control module

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

ahknow
Riding on 13's
Posts: 3
Joined: September 9th, 2013, 12:41 pm

Re: Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby ahknow » September 9th, 2021, 1:01 pm

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=737033

The above link is where i saw the post

kamakazi
punchin NOS
Posts: 2906
Joined: February 14th, 2009, 10:32 am

Re: Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby kamakazi » November 5th, 2021, 9:56 pm

Learn from my mistake; change your engine oil at least every 6 months regardless of mileage...unless the car isn't being started or driven and or the oil is designed to be left in for that length of time or longer.

Sister's Civic only does short trips and it took a little over a year to put ~4000Km on the odometer. In that time and limited mileage, the oil coming out the crankcase looks and smells burnt and has started to deposit sludge on engine components.

Now i have the task of trying to clean this engine up. My plan is to run the next oil change at much shorter intervals and drive the vehicle a little more. It might take longer but i don't really like strong solvent-based engine flushes.

Remember that short trips are very hard on engine oil.

kamakazi
punchin NOS
Posts: 2906
Joined: February 14th, 2009, 10:32 am

Re: Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby kamakazi » September 8th, 2022, 1:01 am

Tidbit of advice

If your engine has a timing chain, I recommend synthetic oil. Timing chains are generally harder to replace than belts and while they can last a very long time, It is very dependent on how the engine is serviced. Synthetic oil should keep that chain in service longer before it elongates and causes timing issues.

kamakazi
punchin NOS
Posts: 2906
Joined: February 14th, 2009, 10:32 am

Re: Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby kamakazi » July 22nd, 2023, 4:01 am

More info and some opinions on engine Oil
Credit to SPEEDiagnostix (now The Motor Oil Geek) on Youtube

As engine oil is constantly being developed to meet new demands from manufacturers and regulators, there is always something new to learn.

API SP was designed to deal with low speed pre ignition (LSPI) by reducing Calcium additives (detergent) identified as being one of the contributing factors to LSPI; Magnesium is being used as the alternative.
It was also designed to reduce emissions by the reduction of Zinc, Phosphorous(anti-wear) and sulphated ash (Total Base Number)

It was found in testing that the detergent additives were competing with the anti-wear additives for surface area on the various metal parts that they are supposed to protect, and, with a reduction in the concentration of the detergent additives, the anti-wear is better able to do its job.
Moly is another anti-wear additive(also a friction modifier) that is usually found in much higher concentrations in "racing" oils

So What is the best oil for my car?.
It depends on what you want and what you are willing to sacrifice
At present
API SP rated oils are good all-around but sacrifice longevity on dealing with higher sulfur fuels (Lower TBN).
Racing oils are better for anti-wear but they sacrifice even more longevity by having less detergents
If you want better fuel economy, select the synthetic variant of the lowest viscosity oil that your owners manual recommends, that contains moly


(Note: This particular piece excludes engine oil requirements for very special use cases like nitromethane)


My observations and opinions on engine oil.

Engine oil shears down (loses viscosity) in an engine when it is being used. It also loses viscosity due to contamination by fuel and water leaking past the piston rings. At some point during its use, however, it starts to increase in viscosity due to oxidation and evaporation.

Regarding Viscosity, unless you own a hybrid, please don't go lower than 0w30. For hybrid owners don't go lower than 0w20. If you know you are going to drive the vehicle hard, consider going up a notch or two in viscosity grade. Engine tolerances aren't getting any tighter at the moment and anything lower than 0w30/0w20 is prioritizing fuel efficiency over engine protection and longevity

kamakazi
punchin NOS
Posts: 2906
Joined: February 14th, 2009, 10:32 am

Re: WTK New Tucson issues

Postby kamakazi » March 11th, 2024, 3:54 am

Short recommendations here to help increase the longevity of your vehicles paint.

Use a car wash specific soap when washing your vehicle.

Apply some sort of wax or sealant from a known brand after washing to help protect the paint.

Note: wash and wax products don't count as applying wax

kamakazi
punchin NOS
Posts: 2906
Joined: February 14th, 2009, 10:32 am

Re: Servicing to Keep your vehicle past the warranty

Postby kamakazi » November 2nd, 2024, 3:28 pm

Old car problems again.

TLDR: check your PCV valve every so often and...if your seals start leaking soon after you replaced them.

Problem: every couple of weeks or months, the seals (cam cover, spark plug tube, cam cover nut, breather box,etc) on the engine start to leak. Some of these seals were changed less than a year ago and have started to leak again.

At first I thought it was excessive blowby from a tired engine, building pressure in the crankcase and blowing out my seals. My initial assessment wasn't far off but I only found the suspect part after I planned on reversible modifications to reduce crankcase pressure.

For reference the engine is a na Honda b16a.
I took some inspiration from breather setups that were used, by persons who have turbocharged this engine

I purchased the following items to mod the engine
Cheap catch can
An aftermarket vented oil cap (I later realized I could drill and tap a cheap plastic oil cap so I'm using that at the moment)
3/8" rubber hose
KN breather filter
90 degree 3/8" hose Barb to 1/4" npt fitting
One way check valves(not used just yet but purchased in case I have to control the direction of flow

I started by servicing the breather box and checking the PCV valve. Mine was stuck closed, which was why my seals were blowing out and leaking. I stretched an o ring to fit over the breather box opening where it seals to the block. I decided to make the setup easier to service in future by having the PCV valve in a more accessible location. I replaced the stuck PCV valve. I broke it while trying to remove it; cleaning might be possible to get it to open.


To further assist in relieving pressure in the crankcase, I drill and tapped a plastic aftermarket oil cap, inserted a 90 degree fitting, ran a hose from it to a catch can baffled with a metal scouring pad, then to the breather filter.

I'm currently testing this setup and it appears to be working. No more oil is pushing through the seals, But at the same time, I'm going to have to replace them. I'm still trying to find a good spot to mount the catch can in a stock ek engine bay. There isn't much additional space. I did use very soft children's plasticine to check under bonnet clearance.

This setup works on the b16a because it uses a MAP sensor...I don't think this will work as good on a MAF sensor engine

Advertisement

Return to “AUTOMOTIVE TECH”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests