DIY help

[GameOver]

I have almost completed my first major DIY job - changed head and block in my P11 (SR20, M6 CVT)
Can the pros give me some heads up with what checks I need to make before I try to start engine up. Any thing a rookie may have overlooked that could prove disastrous...

Really appreciate any advice that is given.

[X_Factor]

u used a torque wrench and correct measurements acording to the manual??

[GameOver]

¡no! no tengo torque wrench...

but neither does my mech

is this really bad?

[GameOver]

head and block was complete though..

[Sanctifier]

:oops: ¡no! no tengo torque wrench...but neither does my mech is this really bad?

Con-rod bolt torque specs should be measured with a stretch gauge (if available) not a torque wrench.
I've never seen one in T&T... I'm going to buy my own.

Cylinder head bolts definately need a torque wrench...

Search "How things work"... Google... etc.

You just bought an old engine and installed it?... What warranty did you get?
If you "open" it, either buy (and use) a NEW torque wrench... or *get a NEW mechanic* (who has one.)

BTW... is this really bad?... Don't know specs for SR20...
but FYI Mitsu engines use "torque to yield" con-rod and cylinder head bolts.

Both are ONE USE ONLY ... Replace with new Mitsu bolts on every rebuild/gasket change... or buy ARP bolts/studs. IMHO check to see if your SR20 is similar.

My $0.02¢

[X_Factor]

ohh, if u just changed the head&block and didnt "build" the head and block
and all u really doing is mounting it back into the engine bay, on to the tranny and bolting back the normal bolt on's, the torque wrench may not be necessary for that

[Maserati]

dude get a good torque wrench eg. snap on
and find the specs. for the engine and torque accordingly

[X_Factor]

apparently its just a head and block swap, he didnt assemble the parts in head and block

in that case the torque wrench really isnt necessary

[GameOver]

"ohh, if u just changed the head&block and didnt "build" the head and block
and all u really doing is mounting it back into the engine bay, on to the tranny and bolting back the normal bolt on's, the torque wrench may not be necessary for that"

^^^^ thats it... thanks
just never spent so many hours working on my car so I guess it seemed "major" to me.

So just fill up with oil and tumble..? (belts, seals and water pump changed)
everything else (tranny, alternator, power steering pump, distributor, a/c) was from original engine.
What about timing? seeing i removed the distributor and have no reference bolt markings. I dont have a timing gun.

[7143]

horse yuh din realli need the torque wrench in your case after all cuz u jus swappin d complete head and block...u not openin it up an ting so no headbolts needed to be taken out or placed in back.....oh an dont top up d d oil dat already in d new block...drain out all d old oil an fill with new one...yuh ent kno how long dat old oil inside dey na....jus be safe.....

[janfar]

The distributor should be on a sliding device for adjustment. Easy was to get timing right id to slacken the 2 bolts for the dist. and adjust, on every incremental movement listen to the throttle response by stepping on the acc pedal. The best response should be where u lock the dist in place. If you are not to clear on what i just told you best bet would be to see a pro.

[GameOver]

^^^^thanks..