wtk what causes a new battery to go dead after...

[THE SYNDICATE]

two days. i bought my battery 2 months ago and got it checked out at master serve.everything ok!

if i use the car,lets say saturday morning and then back home in the said morning,if i don't start the car,by sunday evening the battery is dead! not entirely but it won't be able to start the car.

my bro tells me is the amps taking the current.i disconnected them and is the same problem.i'm at a lost here and when parking for more than 2 days without starting i have to disconnect the battery pole.it gets annoying at times i really need some help!

[stephengobin]

check and see if something stays on when you switch off your car.
disconnect the positive and then touch it back on the terminal, if it spark then something is staying on...

[nervewrecker]

disconnect the positive and then touch it back on the terminal, if it spark then something is staying on...

that can damage the battery as well.

seems something is drawing current in your car, see if there are any wires pinched anywhere & possibly grounding off or short circuiting.

put a meter in series with the positive pole & live wire in the car & let us know what it reads.

is it a wet cell btw? if its a dry cell the water in it may be drying up from excessive heat in the engine bay.

[bigchief3679]

you can put a normal bulb-type tester in series with the positive pole. if there is current draw the bulb will remain lit. you then can remove fuses one by one from the fusebox [the test light will go off] to find the culprit. once on our car the alternator regulator went bad and caused this, it was warm every morning

[THE SYNDICATE]

check and see if something stays on when you switch off your car.
disconnect the positive and then touch it back on the terminal, if it spark then something is staying on...

it sparking real heavy. when i disconnected the amps the spark went away about 80%,but the end result was the same....dead battery!

[THE SYNDICATE]

slacker_jack,don't think it have any pinched wires,will try thge meter and say how it goes.

as for the battery it's a 13plate 825amps turbo master

[THE SYNDICATE]

you can put a normal bulb-type tester in series with the positive pole. if there is current draw the bulb will remain lit. you then can remove fuses one by one from the fusebox [the test light will go off] to find the culprit. once on our car the alternator regulator went bad and caused this, it was warm every morning

i will use the buld tester also and see how it goes...

as for the regulator...i will check into this.how would u know if a regulator faulty? will it smoke and still work after?

[bigchief3679]

when the fuse for the alternator is disconnected and the light goes out, you will know. the 'spark' check is not always accurate as it shows momentary current draw, many electronics which contain large capacitors such as amps and head units draw a large current for a short instance when the terminal is put back on but return to normal. the test lamp shows the constant draw, remove fuses one by one and u will find ur short.

[brams112]

is it a m/free or is it a normal battery?the frim suppose to check your system and tell you of the problem.It could be a simple problem,,water drying up due to the amps,also alternator not charging correctly,or fan belt slack,under charging the system,or bad battery,could be a bad cell,,,

[THE SYNDICATE]

brams112,Normal battery. firm checked it out and everything in order.water good and charging 13. 6 or 7 can't rember but that is good as well!belt changed and cells are good!

[THE SYNDICATE]

this is the scoop.with the multi meter connected in series it reading 12.29v

with the bulb test, the thing lighting like the dimmer filament of a brake light bulb!

when i disconnected the amps power cables and the cd players,pre amp,screen,etc power cable the light dimmed drastically!

[hong kong phooey]

As those guys said check and see if something staying on , leave your hood light on door and close all your doors, see if the light stays on- if it does one of your door switch is at fault.

Check and make sure all your all your outer lights is off.

After u drive the car leave it idleing and check the voltage on the battery if it is no >13.8 volts you have a problem with your alternator . there is a module inside the alternator that regulates the output and it might have gone bad, or loose wire

[Hook]

You will always have current draw when the car's off. It's to make sure your head unit, clock and ECU don't reset every time you switch off the car. That test light check won't work, you need an ammeter like on a multitester.

What you're experiencing is called parasitic drain. You'll need to test the car with all everything off, doors, closed and the alarm armed (like it would be if it were really parked up).

These steps are taken from http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

1. Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.

2. Attach an ammeter(this measures amperage) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".
*EDIT: Make sure ammeter is set to measure the maximum 10A and it's on the highest scale to start off. If the current draw is much higher than the set scale, you risk ruining the ammeter. You can adjust to a smaller scale to get a more accurate reading AFTER you get your initial reading.

3. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.

4. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse.

5. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.

6. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.

7. Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.

[THE SYNDICATE]

Hook,good info.thanks!

thanks for the other replies as well!

[THE SYNDICATE]

did what all suggested and something is pulling the current, the stuff i have on the power line are too much to eliminate. you all won't believe the electronics on that line.

thing is two cells were dead in my new battery that was the last thing to check cause i thought that cannot be with a new battery,apparently not so!

the car starts after two days with no probs.will leave it to see how long it can hold charge for knowing that something is pulling current.

will check that out when i have some real good time on my hand. for now the two days i can live with!

thanks again for the replies.......

[Hook]

soooooooo...basically I wasted the time and effort to try to help you by posting a step-by-step test for parasitic drain, only to have you come back 3 months later to bump the thread and say you didn't solve the problem because it have too much ting on de line to check?!

This is the last time I offer you any advice.

[Dave]

lol

Hook, think about the others u also helped indirectly

[Hook]

True boi Swami, true...arriteTHE SYNDICATE, I reneg my decision to shun you.

[THE SYNDICATE]

Hook,gosh boi doh drop it so harsh on me nah.meh bro saying the same thing,to scrap out and check everything on the line. i only bring back out my ride a year now and i really don't want to scrap out yet.

it's plenty work to do that right now in my ride!

[Hook]

So there aren't any fuses on all these extra things?

It's not rocket science you know. It's just to put an ammeter in series with the battery, check the current draw and pull fuses until it drops to a reasonable level.
You shouldn't have to pull your car apart just to do that, but if you need to do that to get to it, maybe you should consider re-wiring if each individual accessory can't be isolated properly.

[diabolik986]

had the same problem a while aback ended up buying a new battery and changing the regulator in the alternator at the end of it all wasnt either. what was happening was that the ac was drawing down the battery due to a deffective positive battery terminal leading from the alternator. try running a 4 guage wire from the output side of the alternator to your battery run the car and see what happens if the battery doesnt run down there's your problem. i.e tested my alternator ouput current with an amp meter got 90 amps on high load so one needs to be careful

[THE SYNDICATE]

Hook,scroll up and u will get an idea of the things on the line.i have one main fuse supplying all those things on it,so i will have to track it individually. some real work considering the location of the connections. will try to sort it out if u help!

i'll buy all the beers u can drink!

[Hook]

lol...breds, THAT not sounding safe at all...you mean to say, you have one main power wire running the length of the vehicle from battery to the amplifier distribution block (assuming you did THAT part correctly at least) and everything else taps into that one main wire at different points without fuses?!?!

Everything should've been brought to a central location and each component fused separately, or two power wires run; one for amplifiers with a proper distribution blockand and each amplifier fused separately and a separate power wire for screens etc. each other component also fused separately.

That way you can isolate it to an amp problem or an accessory problem from the get-go and then start pulling screens etc until you find the guilty circuit.

Tell you what, assume for now that it's not the extras you wired up and still do the test, to at least eliminate the car's stock wiring as a possible cause. So you'll know where to start when u RE-WIRE YOUR I.C.E. PROPERLY.

[THE SYNDICATE]

Hook,i needed my car to use urgently at that time.see how woman is the luckiest thing on this planet. that's y i did what i did!

i eliminated the car's wiring so it came down to that wire.the amps are good but not to sure bout the other stuff.

real plenty stuff

[cacasplat3]

its been a while since i saw a thread here with some good info......
Hook, good job

[Kongorealm]

As usual, Hook provides solid information that will assist you in solving a problem...

[masterofmindzchris]

hmmm

[3stagevtec]

Was the problem ever found?

[cinco]

i suggest you pull off that main wire for the music and see if your power problems go away
which i think it most likely will

[THE SYNDICATE]

Was the problem ever found?

halfway!