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rollingstock wrote:^ I used those for years, no dust is true but if you upgrade to a better pad there's a marked improvement, and those things are too harsh, they destroy rotors.
CD4Accord wrote:No problem man, you helped me out when I was looking at sizing the exhaust tips..
Are you able to give me more details about the differences in the braking systems between the A33 and J31 cefiros? Are the J32 (Teana) setups the same as the J31?
For some reason I always felt a bit more confident on the brakes in the A33 than the J31, which made me assume the calipers were different..
What is the difference between the rears?
Thanks
X_Factor wrote:^ remember there is a "break in" period for the pads
*$kїđž!™ wrote:was told that Id have to drive under 70kmph for at least a week....
how the heck i gonna accomplish that on the highway....
wagonrunner wrote:*$kїđž!™ wrote:was told that Id have to drive under 70kmph for at least a week....
how the heck i gonna accomplish that on the highway....
how does that improve brake performance? doing that all the time will extend the life of the pad.
you need a couple firm quick applications of the brake, with time to let the pad cool.
have vehicle at a slow roll, do 5 sudden stops.
go up to 20kmh, do 5 sudden stops.
the pad is always in contact with the rotor, so no real bedding in.
what your trying to establish is proper brake line pressure, and good contact between piston shim pad and rotor.
wagonrunner wrote:*$kїđž!™ wrote:was told that Id have to drive under 70kmph for at least a week....
how the heck i gonna accomplish that on the highway....
how does that improve brake performance? doing that all the time will extend the life of the pad.
you need a couple firm quick applications of the brake, with time to let the pad cool.
have vehicle at a slow roll, do 5 sudden stops.
go up to 20kmh, do 5 sudden stops.
the pad is always in contact with the rotor, so no real bedding in.
what your trying to establish is proper brake line pressure, and good contact between piston shim pad and rotor.
Dave wrote:I have been using alot of "Scorched" pads off late which basically means they require no break in and many from the first stop work great!
Off course none off these have made it to our shores as yet
Every Posi Quiet brake pad has been scorched to reduce the amount of time it takes to break-in a new set of brakes. The scorching process from Centric Parts boosts key friction performance levels in the brake pads. By raising the initial cold effectiveness and stabilizing friction levels, scorching increases performance across the brake’s entire operating range. As brake pads are being scorched the surface is super-heated to extreme temperatures to mimic the initial brake-in process performed by installation technicians. This additional, but vital step is what causes any uncured bonding agent to dissipate, in turn eliminating the need to break them in. This also greatly reduces the noise level caused by pad glazing. In order to condition the brake pad material, which yields a more consistent and higher friction level right out of the box, the pads need to be scorched. By scorching every PosiQuiet brake pad, vehicle owners can count on the benefits of a complete bed-in of the new pads to the rotor, increasing the effective stopping power from the first stop.
ward one wrote:i use Wagner QuickStop brake pads in my wingroad y11. cost about $250 up depending on where u buy it.
ghostbusters wrote:ward one wrote:i use Wagner QuickStop brake pads in my wingroad y11. cost about $250 up depending on where u buy it.
I used to use those as well, switched to centrics, and cannot go back...tried using wagners once after switching and almost got into several accidents...too many close calls, the centric ceramics spoiled me...the only local pad I'd use now is mintex...and i still think that is crap.
Strugglerzinc wrote:I've used Wagner Quickstop, ThermoQuiet, Bosch, Akebono Ceramic, Raybestos (Non Ceramic), Centric (Non Ceramic) and now StopTech.
The StopTech blows all else out of the water. Only caveat, dust like fcuk.
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