SR20DET wiring ECU Pins, fault codes and other info
Posted: March 15th, 2007, 2:23 pm
Could be repost.. i eh know but i thought it might be helpful to our fellow DET 2ners
SR20DET wiring ECU pins and description of wire colors
1 - Coil Pack 1 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White
2 - Coil Pack 2 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red Yellow
3 - Tachometer signal output - Yellow Red
4 - ECCS Relay - Red Black
5 - Ignition Pulse Monitor (For Trip Comp ?)
6 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black
7 - RX data (Signal from Nissan Consult hand terminal) - Green Black
8 - Coil Pack 3 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White
9 - Coil Pack 4 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White
10 -
11 -
12 - A/T signal DT3 (autotrans gear select ?)
13 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black
14 - CLK clock (timing signal) - Green White
15 - TX data (signal to Nissan Consult hand terminal) - Green
16 - MAFS signal input ( Mass Air Flow Sensor ) - White
17 - MAFS ground - Black
18 - Water Temp Sensor input - Blue Brown
19 - Oxyen Sensor input (O2) - White
20 - TPS input (throttle postion sensor) - White
21 - Sensor ground - Black
22 - CAS 180deg signal (Crank angle sensor) - White
23 - CHK check (check start) ? - Green Red
24 - Monitor check Lamp (red) (fault code lamp output)
25 - Exhaust over temp warning lamp output - Orange
26 - Exhaust temp sensor inout (Behind the Cat) - Blue Yellow
27 - Detonation sensorinput (knock sensor) - White
28 - TPS for A/T (kick down switch)
29 - Sensor ground - Black
30 - CAS 180deg signal (crank angle sensor) - White
31 - CAS 1deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Black
32 - Speed sensor input - Yellow Green
33 -
34 - Start signal (from ignition switch) - Orange
35 - A/T neutral switch input - Green Orange
36 - IGN (ignition ON, from ignition switch) - Black Red
37 - TPS power output (power to throttle position sensor) - Light Green Red
38 - ECCS power - Black White
39 - ECCS ground - Black
40 - CAS 1 deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Red Black
41 - A/C on input (Air Con ON from A/C panel) - Blue Green
42 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select ?)
43 - Power steering switch (speed proportional control output) - Purple White
44 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select ?)
45 - Ambient air tamp sensor input - Blue White
46 - ECCS backup power - Red
47 - ECCS power - Black White
48 - ECCS ground - Black
101 - Injector No. 1 drive output - White Black
102 - EAI control solenoid output (egr valve control ?) - Orange Black
103 - Injector No.3 drive output - Green Black
104 - Fuel pump relay output - Black Purple
105 - Fuel pressure control module - Red White
106 - A/C on output (Air conditioner on relay signal) - Green Black
107 - Injector ground - Black
108 - Injector ground - Black
109 - Reverse electrical flow return circuit (alternator fail input) - Red
110 - Injector No. 2 drive output - Yellow Black
111 - Turbo boost pressure control solenoid (over boost cut ?) - Orange Black
112 - Injector No. 4 drive output - Blue Black
113 - AAC valve control (Auxiliary Air Control, Idle speed control) - Light Blue
114 -
115 -
116 - Injector ground - Black .
s13 sr20det to s13 240 wiring diagram
I got bored at 5:10am for looking for a sr motor, so I went to srswap.com and copied the wiring diagram, for the lazy bastards, to show how to do it yourself, and save a few hundred dollars!!!
There are 2 plugs on the end of the KA harness and 3 plugs on the SR harness that run up behind the stock battery location. Although the plugs do initially snap together, the wires do not line up and you have to cut the plugs off and connect the wires using the table below. Cut the 2 main KA plugs off the KA harness and splice them onto the SR harness.
red lines are SR Harness
blue lines are KA Harness
SR Harness Wire Color
Used For
KA Harness Wire Color
Black / Pink stripe
Fuel Pump Relay
Black / Pink stripe
Green / Orange stripe
Transmission Neutral Sensor
Green / Orange stripe
Red / Black stripe
ECU Relay
Red / Black stripe
Green / Yellow stripe
AC Relay
Green / Yellow stripe
Red
ECU Backup Power
Red
Black / Red & Blue / Red (Note: connect 2 wires to 1)
Main Ignition Power
Black / Red stripe
Black / White stripe
ECU Power
Black / White stripe
Blue / Green stripe
AC Relay
Blue / Green stripe
Black / Yellow stripe
Idle Air Control Valve Power
Black / Yellow stripe
Brown (to O2 sensor)
O2 Sensor Power
Any 12v switched source
my source
like I said I got really bored in the early morning of easter, so all you freeloaders here you go, please quit asking for the wiring diagram.
sorry if this has been posted before, I searched but didn't see it, so here you go!
ECU & Dash wiring
The colors on the wires that run from the ECU up into the dash matched up perfectly on both the SR ECU harness and the KA dash harness:
Wire Color
Used For
Yellow / Red stripe
Tachometer signal
Yellow / Green stripe
Speedometer signal
Orange
Ignition start
Black (may be more than one ground)
Ground
Blue / Green stripe
AC signal
Blue / Black stripe
Water temp signal
The rest of the wires are for the CONSULT diagnostic device. It is not necessary to connect any other wires than those listed above to get the SR to run properly.
Connect the remaining wires if you plan to use the onboard diagnostic CONSULT connector.
The Apexi turbo timer is connected to the O2 sensor wire at the ECU to provide auto countdown functions. The Apexi AVC-R is also attached to the ECU harness for tachometer signal, speed signal, and throttle position. Apexi products come with a very good ECU pinout diagram that is extremely useful.
Remove the brackets from the SR ECU to make it easier to mount.
yellow / Red stripe
Tachometer signal
Yellow / Green stripe
Speedometer signal
Orange
Ignition start
Black (may be more than one ground)
Ground
Blue / Black stripe
Water temp signal
Problem
1. Low Oil Pressure / Oil starvation , noisy lifters that will not quiet down -Check the oil pan for dents before starting your engine. Even the smallest dent can kill your engine!
2. No Oil Pressure / Oil pump frozen -Manually prime the pump thru the turbo oil line into the block (the lower on under the power steering pump) if you don't get immediate oil pressure. Confirm adequite oil pressure gauge, or by removing the valve cover, cover timing chain area and briefly run engine. You should see oil coming out all over the place.
3. Fuel pump not coming on -Plugs by Battery may be wired incorrectly, they plug in but won't work without rewiring. Pump should run for 3 seconds then stop if flywheel not moving.
4. No Spark -Check main ignition power wiring by battery and ECU. Also check for bad ignitor, bad coilpacks, bad ECU, shorted harness. Ignitor passes ECU pulse on to coil packs, crank the engine and test with multimeter for ignition voltage pulses at ignitor input and output to isolate source of problem.
5. Odd electrical behavior in dash, interior lights -ECU plug may not be tightened all the way down. This causes all kinds of weird different problems. Also check for mis-wired grounds (especially main power and turbo timer wiring) back-feeding power thru the ground system.
6. Won't Crank -Check Main power wiring and start signal wire to ECU, clutch interlock switch, auto trans conversion must use jumper on harness plug. Make sure car alarm or turbo timer wiring is not causing the problem.
7. Cranks, has spark & fuel either just cranks, or catches but won't run -Check Timing, Crank Angle Sensor could be misaligned. Engine could be flooded, check spark plug for raw fuel.
Runs OK, but no power Check timing, set to 15 degrees, 2nd mark from the right on crank pulley.
8. Drivable but can't boost above certain psi, or can't give more than 25% throttle without bucking -Leak in intercooler piping under boost, even a small leak will make the car sputter and buck with any significant throttle. MAFS or MAFS wiring problem.
9. Idles OK, but can't rev past 2500 rpm -MAFS or MAFS wiring problem.
SR20DET wiring ECU pins and description of wire colors
1 - Coil Pack 1 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White
2 - Coil Pack 2 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red Yellow
3 - Tachometer signal output - Yellow Red
4 - ECCS Relay - Red Black
5 - Ignition Pulse Monitor (For Trip Comp ?)
6 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black
7 - RX data (Signal from Nissan Consult hand terminal) - Green Black
8 - Coil Pack 3 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White
9 - Coil Pack 4 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White
10 -
11 -
12 - A/T signal DT3 (autotrans gear select ?)
13 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black
14 - CLK clock (timing signal) - Green White
15 - TX data (signal to Nissan Consult hand terminal) - Green
16 - MAFS signal input ( Mass Air Flow Sensor ) - White
17 - MAFS ground - Black
18 - Water Temp Sensor input - Blue Brown
19 - Oxyen Sensor input (O2) - White
20 - TPS input (throttle postion sensor) - White
21 - Sensor ground - Black
22 - CAS 180deg signal (Crank angle sensor) - White
23 - CHK check (check start) ? - Green Red
24 - Monitor check Lamp (red) (fault code lamp output)
25 - Exhaust over temp warning lamp output - Orange
26 - Exhaust temp sensor inout (Behind the Cat) - Blue Yellow
27 - Detonation sensorinput (knock sensor) - White
28 - TPS for A/T (kick down switch)
29 - Sensor ground - Black
30 - CAS 180deg signal (crank angle sensor) - White
31 - CAS 1deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Black
32 - Speed sensor input - Yellow Green
33 -
34 - Start signal (from ignition switch) - Orange
35 - A/T neutral switch input - Green Orange
36 - IGN (ignition ON, from ignition switch) - Black Red
37 - TPS power output (power to throttle position sensor) - Light Green Red
38 - ECCS power - Black White
39 - ECCS ground - Black
40 - CAS 1 deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Red Black
41 - A/C on input (Air Con ON from A/C panel) - Blue Green
42 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select ?)
43 - Power steering switch (speed proportional control output) - Purple White
44 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select ?)
45 - Ambient air tamp sensor input - Blue White
46 - ECCS backup power - Red
47 - ECCS power - Black White
48 - ECCS ground - Black
101 - Injector No. 1 drive output - White Black
102 - EAI control solenoid output (egr valve control ?) - Orange Black
103 - Injector No.3 drive output - Green Black
104 - Fuel pump relay output - Black Purple
105 - Fuel pressure control module - Red White
106 - A/C on output (Air conditioner on relay signal) - Green Black
107 - Injector ground - Black
108 - Injector ground - Black
109 - Reverse electrical flow return circuit (alternator fail input) - Red
110 - Injector No. 2 drive output - Yellow Black
111 - Turbo boost pressure control solenoid (over boost cut ?) - Orange Black
112 - Injector No. 4 drive output - Blue Black
113 - AAC valve control (Auxiliary Air Control, Idle speed control) - Light Blue
114 -
115 -
116 - Injector ground - Black .
s13 sr20det to s13 240 wiring diagram
I got bored at 5:10am for looking for a sr motor, so I went to srswap.com and copied the wiring diagram, for the lazy bastards, to show how to do it yourself, and save a few hundred dollars!!!
There are 2 plugs on the end of the KA harness and 3 plugs on the SR harness that run up behind the stock battery location. Although the plugs do initially snap together, the wires do not line up and you have to cut the plugs off and connect the wires using the table below. Cut the 2 main KA plugs off the KA harness and splice them onto the SR harness.
red lines are SR Harness
blue lines are KA Harness
SR Harness Wire Color
Used For
KA Harness Wire Color
Black / Pink stripe
Fuel Pump Relay
Black / Pink stripe
Green / Orange stripe
Transmission Neutral Sensor
Green / Orange stripe
Red / Black stripe
ECU Relay
Red / Black stripe
Green / Yellow stripe
AC Relay
Green / Yellow stripe
Red
ECU Backup Power
Red
Black / Red & Blue / Red (Note: connect 2 wires to 1)
Main Ignition Power
Black / Red stripe
Black / White stripe
ECU Power
Black / White stripe
Blue / Green stripe
AC Relay
Blue / Green stripe
Black / Yellow stripe
Idle Air Control Valve Power
Black / Yellow stripe
Brown (to O2 sensor)
O2 Sensor Power
Any 12v switched source
my source
like I said I got really bored in the early morning of easter, so all you freeloaders here you go, please quit asking for the wiring diagram.
sorry if this has been posted before, I searched but didn't see it, so here you go!
ECU & Dash wiring
The colors on the wires that run from the ECU up into the dash matched up perfectly on both the SR ECU harness and the KA dash harness:
Wire Color
Used For
Yellow / Red stripe
Tachometer signal
Yellow / Green stripe
Speedometer signal
Orange
Ignition start
Black (may be more than one ground)
Ground
Blue / Green stripe
AC signal
Blue / Black stripe
Water temp signal
The rest of the wires are for the CONSULT diagnostic device. It is not necessary to connect any other wires than those listed above to get the SR to run properly.
Connect the remaining wires if you plan to use the onboard diagnostic CONSULT connector.
The Apexi turbo timer is connected to the O2 sensor wire at the ECU to provide auto countdown functions. The Apexi AVC-R is also attached to the ECU harness for tachometer signal, speed signal, and throttle position. Apexi products come with a very good ECU pinout diagram that is extremely useful.
Remove the brackets from the SR ECU to make it easier to mount.
yellow / Red stripe
Tachometer signal
Yellow / Green stripe
Speedometer signal
Orange
Ignition start
Black (may be more than one ground)
Ground
Blue / Black stripe
Water temp signal
Problem
1. Low Oil Pressure / Oil starvation , noisy lifters that will not quiet down -Check the oil pan for dents before starting your engine. Even the smallest dent can kill your engine!
2. No Oil Pressure / Oil pump frozen -Manually prime the pump thru the turbo oil line into the block (the lower on under the power steering pump) if you don't get immediate oil pressure. Confirm adequite oil pressure gauge, or by removing the valve cover, cover timing chain area and briefly run engine. You should see oil coming out all over the place.
3. Fuel pump not coming on -Plugs by Battery may be wired incorrectly, they plug in but won't work without rewiring. Pump should run for 3 seconds then stop if flywheel not moving.
4. No Spark -Check main ignition power wiring by battery and ECU. Also check for bad ignitor, bad coilpacks, bad ECU, shorted harness. Ignitor passes ECU pulse on to coil packs, crank the engine and test with multimeter for ignition voltage pulses at ignitor input and output to isolate source of problem.
5. Odd electrical behavior in dash, interior lights -ECU plug may not be tightened all the way down. This causes all kinds of weird different problems. Also check for mis-wired grounds (especially main power and turbo timer wiring) back-feeding power thru the ground system.
6. Won't Crank -Check Main power wiring and start signal wire to ECU, clutch interlock switch, auto trans conversion must use jumper on harness plug. Make sure car alarm or turbo timer wiring is not causing the problem.
7. Cranks, has spark & fuel either just cranks, or catches but won't run -Check Timing, Crank Angle Sensor could be misaligned. Engine could be flooded, check spark plug for raw fuel.
Runs OK, but no power Check timing, set to 15 degrees, 2nd mark from the right on crank pulley.
8. Drivable but can't boost above certain psi, or can't give more than 25% throttle without bucking -Leak in intercooler piping under boost, even a small leak will make the car sputter and buck with any significant throttle. MAFS or MAFS wiring problem.
9. Idles OK, but can't rev past 2500 rpm -MAFS or MAFS wiring problem.