trinituner.com

I recently installed a superpro kit to correct the front camber on my car. did a DIY install and thought I'd post it up.

this is the kit for the P10/P11 primera front upper control arms.

part # SPF1381k
[IMG::]http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/est348.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]


as you can see, the bore in the hardened steel inserts are not centered and this is how the camber is adjusted.
[IMG::]http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/est352.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

I installed the kit on an old set of arms that I had changed a few years ago, and it saved my car from a lot of downtime.
[IMG::]http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/est356.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

[IMG::]http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/est368.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

a propane torch was used to soften the bushings so they can be easily pulled out. the heat was used only on the rubber itself and I dont believe that it was enough to alter the metal.

[IMG::]http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/est382.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

after the arms were stripped and cleaned, a 5mm hole was drilled and a M6x1 tap was used on the underside for the installation of the supplied grease nipples.

[IMG::]http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/est388.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

[IMG::]http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/est454.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

lube was applied and the bushings were put in. the gap that is seen is where the grease nipples are located.
[IMG::]http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/est456.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

[IMG::]http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/est457.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

the steel tubes were also lubed and put in. it slid in easily up to a point and then the C-clamp was used. the tubes are supposed to be installed with the bores facing away from each other, so that the arm would have maximum positive camber when installed.

[IMG::]http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/est461.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

[IMG::]http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/est462.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

[IMG::]http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/est490.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]
top arm is a Taiwan replacement


[IMG::]http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/est465.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]


to install the arms on the car, the bracket inside the fender must be removed. a few guys in the G20.net forum tried installing them without removing the brackets and ended up stripping the threads in the steel tubes and ruined the kit.

[IMG::]http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/est487.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

at the back end of the arm, two bolts are used to attach it to the bracket. one of the bolts is longer and has a nut. this is the adjustment for the camber. the long bolt can go in either side of the arm, so you can place it on whichever side is easier to reach when making the adjustment.

[IMG::]http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/est493.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

the long bolt will have to be tightened until it bottoms out. slacken the nut and tighten the bolt so that the entire tube will turn once the bolt has bottomed out.

reinstall the bracket with the new arm. the original bolt and nut at the front of the arm is reused.
[IMG::]http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/est495.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

to adjust the camber, you have to first slacken the bolt at the front of the arm, the short bolt at the back and the nut on the adjustment bolt. then use a spanner to turn the adjustment bolt in a clockwise direction until the desired camber is reached. then tighten back the nut and bolts.

I put a level on the hub so you can see some of the adjustment.

[IMG::]http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/est498.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

[IMG::]http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/est497.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

also installed new bushings on the lower arms.
will post it up later.

GREAT!!!!!!

nice job.....

DE-VE wrote:also installed new bushings on the lower arms.
will post it up later.

SuperPro as well?

If so make sure you put them in with washers on both ends. If not the bushings will slide back out and be destroyed within a couple of KM.

SuperPro only now started including washers with their LCA kits because of this.

Didn't know until afterwards and had to find out the hard way.

hey DE are you 100% that they wil work on the P11 upper?
Very nice job, good how to and boy you're meticulous with the level !

the only difference between the P10 and P11 front suspension is the shape of the lower cradle arm bushings. the upper arm and the shock are the same.
the level is just to show the camber change. still have to go to the shop to get it set properly.

DF1_2nR, you're referring to the lower control arm front? the washers were installed when assembling.
I'm not sure if the P10 and P11 use the same part here. (SPF 1217k) the catalog shows this part is for the U12 bluebird.

are you in trinidad?? and meng how much you paid for that kit? reall good stuff

good job

very frickin nice man i was thinking on a way to get camber in front

good job

turbosnail, yo snail i'm pretty sure he spent a lump sum on that kit i'm still saving up for mine

thanks guys. I bought the bushings from Racers Edge on the forum. the cost was $3700. pricey, but worth it. since I bought my car in 2003, I had to change the lower cradle bushing at least once a year. It reached a point where the threading in which the lower cradle bolts to began to strip. I repaired the threading and decided to get the kit, because once they go on there's no need to remove the cradle again.

the lower arms after removal. you can see there was fluid leaking on the right arm. had a leaking master cylinder and power steering hose. this was repaired before the bushings were installed.

[IMG::]http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/est514.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

[IMG::]http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/est519.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

[IMG::]http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/est516.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

to change the lower arm front bushing, the bolt and washer shown above was removed and the shaft for the bracket would just slide off. use the torch to remove the steel tube in the center of the bushing and burn off and scrape away the rubber. you would be left with a steel lining on the inside. this has to be removed before the new bushings can go in.

[IMG::]http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/est539.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]



a hacksaw blade was used to parallel cuts (not deep) in the lining. then a chisel was used and the lining just slid out.

[IMG::]http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/est523.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

now the new bushings can go in (part #SPF1217k). (I forgot to take a photo of them before installing). the new bushing has a front and rear half. the rear half is stamped and the flange is thinner. lube up and install both halves and then insert a new steel tubing in the middle. there is a washer that is supplied with the bushings that must be installed on the rear of the shaft to prevent the rear bushing from moving. then re-assemble the bracket to the cradle.

[IMG::]http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/est544.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]


the lower rear bushing was removed by just slicing through the rubber and then turning it out with a pipe wrench. there is some metal embedded in the rubber. too difficult for a hacksaw, so a grinder was used.

[IMG::]http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/est535.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

[IMG::]http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/est536.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

the new bushing was very easy to install. there is no need for a press to put it on. just lube the bushing and the shaft, place on the ground with the shaft facing up, and tap the new bushing in with a hammer.

[IMG::]http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/est540.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

if the angle isn't right, you can turn it with a pipe wrench to line it up when installing the cradle. the part no used here is SPF 1338k. this is the P10 lower rear bushing with zero caster. the P11's carry a different part no.

[IMG::]http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/est545.jpg/1/w3072.png[/img]

meng i envy you
Hopefully next year if $ permits i'll do the same

the ride is a lot firmer and the steering feels like I'm running 40 series tires instead of 60.

the acceleration of the car has also changed. it's difficult to explain, but when accelerating there is no sensation of speed. feels as if there is a loss of power. takes some getting used to.

thanks for sharing.
But there is some problem with the pics.
I cannot see it.

excellent write up!!!!

stickyyyyyy

hey dave the lower control arm kit, what brand is it? super-pro as well?

yes, the entire front is superpro.

do you know offhand if superpro offers a lower control arm kit for the p11??

Since I haven't (yet) lowered my car, I don't think I have these issues? I need to discuss this more at the next meet. Or maybe the problem is there, and I don;t know it! What typically causes the bushings to go bad so often, and is it more apparent / frequent if the car is lowered?

Frasier000 If you are on a company network, it's possible that file hosting sites such as Imageshack, Photobucket, etc., are blocked, and you can't see the pictures. I have the same issue at my office as well. You should be able to see it on your home network.

there's supposed to be bushings available for the p11. check the app. guide.
http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/superpro.html


low profile tyres place more stress on the bushings.

swift gti funatic, no not the full kit for (P11) only upper

mines didn't even last 3 months

wow... how come your whole front is superpro man....you invent that lower control arm bushing.......

bump!!!