trinituner.com

Ok this is a possible tl;dr post, but I need to give allt he history of this helli've had with my car.

CAR: Wingroad, Y11, big lights, WFY11, 2004/12

Original issue:
A part of the rear axle broke in 2013 August. the arm of spindle on the drive side broke, causing the tire to hit the wheel well. A friend link me with a guy that replace the entire spindle.

Issues since:
Sine that, I have no ABS in rear. Rear tires lock up easily if i mash moderate brakes, exponentially worse on wet roads with attempts to spin out on manyoccasions.

Efforts to resolve issue include:
- taking car to a quack mechanic next to KFC Diego. Buss price an issue not fixed.
- Auto electrician "fix" ABS light issue by simply disabling it (learned after the fact)
- Only in 2015 a mechanic suspects that the spindle used in NOT the correct one for the car.
- 4 months ago I was about to get a rear caliper setup in frustration, but was dissuaded at the last moment...
- The dissuasion led me to a mechanic in Penal who realize the entire spindle was offset to one side, confirming the spindle is incorrect for my car. he had to drill the arm that bolts to chassis to get it more centered.

- I am currently considering getting the ABS sensor cable imported as the one on this spindle was cut. But my concern is it may not work. the original part number i obtained is 47900-WE400, based on this link.

http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/part_deta ... 476A%20001

Repair Objectives:
Get the rear ABS working in my car again!

I done waste real money as is it over the last 3 years. I'd have sold the car already if I were able to afford a similar replacement.
Is getting the new sensor OK?
do I need another spindle? ( the CORRECT one this time)
Who is a good auto electrician to get the ABS working again?

Anil Sooknanan...he should have everything u need

Witch Doctor wrote:Ok this is a possible tl;dr post, but I need to give allt he history of this helli've had with my car.

CAR: Wingroad, Y11, big lights, WFY11, 2004/12

Original issue:
A part of the rear axle broke in 2013 August. the arm of spindle on the drive side broke, causing the tire to hit the wheel well. A friend link me with a guy that replace the entire spindle.

Issues since:
Sine that, I have no ABS in rear. Rear tires lock up easily if i mash moderate brakes, exponentially worse on wet roads with attempts to spin out on manyoccasions.

Efforts to resolve issue include:
- taking car to a quack mechanic next to KFC Diego. Buss price an issue not fixed.
- Auto electrician "fix" ABS light issue by simply disabling it (learned after the fact)
- Only in 2015 a mechanic suspects that the spindle used in NOT the correct one for the car.
- 4 months ago I was about to get a rear caliper setup in frustration, but was dissuaded at the last moment...
- The dissuasion led me to a mechanic in Penal who realize the entire spindle was offset to one side, confirming the spindle is incorrect for my car. he had to drill the arm that bolts to chassis to get it more centered.

- I am currently considering getting the ABS sensor cable imported as the one on this spindle was cut. But my concern is it may not work. the original part number i obtained is 47900-WE400, based on this link.

http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/part_deta ... 476A%20001

Repair Objectives:
Get the rear ABS working in my car again!

I done waste real money as is it over the last 3 years. I'd have sold the car already if I were able to afford a similar replacement.
Is getting the new sensor OK?
do I need another spindle? ( the CORRECT one this time)
Who is a good auto electrician to get the ABS working again?

dumb question...why didn't you take the opportunity to go up to the rear wheel disc brake assembly one time.??

kill two birds wit one stone- fix the abs issue and spindle issue.

that conversion is jack for jack...and bolt for bolt.

all you have to do is ensure the calipers are cleaned and serviced properly before you install it and use it - clean out the caliper and brackets and mating surfaces - lubricate sliding pins and clean out the bleeder valve.

to resolve the ABS issue once the sensor is jacked in and the brakes bled out properly - and the computer reset . that should be it.

if the part of the rear axle broke... the original spindle damaged.

I not sure exactly what broke - perhaps you can provide pictures....and if you want to have it repaired i'd say buy the f used spindle. but if youre going that route you still need the ABS sensor and jack harness.

with respect to the abs sensors and jacks - the part # seems correct.

if youre interested - I MAY have what youre looking for. pm if interested.

dumb question...why didn't you take the opportunity to go up to the rear wheel disc brake assembly one time.??

Literally hours before I was to shell out the money, I happened to mention the issue to my boss, and he ....insisted... that I check his mechanic first.... I was vex, because I don't like to beck pedal on a decision and them caliper spindle hard to get as is. Make me pull my contact for the caliper spindle stones, as he negotiate hard to link the spindle for me.


I not sure exactly what broke - perhaps you can provide pictures.
I lost the original pics of the damage, and the old spindle probably long end up in a dump - but I just took this pic show what broke at the time, indicated by red arrow.



if you're interested - I MAY have what you're looking for. pm if interested.
I will certainly PM you. This mess going on TOO LONG. I just want to confirmation that this spindle I have (probably for an older Wingroad or an AdVan) will work with my ABS

AD van don't have abs

Witch Doctor wrote:dumb question...why didn't you take the opportunity to go up to the rear wheel disc brake assembly one time.??

Literally hours before I was to shell out the money, I happened to mention the issue to my boss, and he ....insisted... that I check his mechanic first.... I was vex, because I don't like to beck pedal on a decision and them caliper spindle hard to get as is. Make me pull my contact for the caliper spindle stones, as he negotiate hard to link the spindle for me.


I not sure exactly what broke - perhaps you can provide pictures.
I lost the original pics of the damage, and the old spindle probably long end up in a dump - but I just took this pic show what broke at the time, indicated by red arrow.



if you're interested - I MAY have what you're looking for. pm if interested.
I will certainly PM you. This mess going on TOO LONG. I just want to confirmation that this spindle I have (probably for an older Wingroad or an AdVan) will work with my ABS

to b honest.. from the pic where broken....I wouldn't try to weld that....
if it was a bolt off / bolt on situation where u cud unbolt the entire broken part and install a new spindle...then yes...

you also indicated he tried to drill a part to make it "more centered".
and in Trinidad mango tree mechs are in no short supply.

that harness part you looking for I actually have a pair on my old drum brakes it came off my U14 bluebird.- the harness is unjacked - not cut and ABS sensors ARE FULLY FUNCTIONAL....

hears my $0.02.....
go buy a complete rear wheel disc brake assembly and done. it comes from the ZVS Y11 wingroad.
bolt for bolt installation.

with the disc brakes you get better stopping power and you also get rid of the broken / drilled / welded / wrong spindle drama you have goin on for you.

skylinechild wrote:
hears my $0.02.....
go buy a complete rear wheel disc brake assembly and done. it comes from the ZVS Y11 wingroad.
bolt for bolt installation.

with the disc brakes you get better stopping power and you also get rid of the broken / drilled / welded / wrong spindle drama you have goin on for you.

Rest assured, when I save up another $5000 that spindle change will most certainly be done.

You didn't mention anything about an auto electrician for undoing the ratch done to my ABS.

^^What abt brake proportioning valve/settings etc?

Witch Doctor wrote:

skylinechild wrote:
hears my $0.02.....
go buy a complete rear wheel disc brake assembly and done. it comes from the ZVS Y11 wingroad.
bolt for bolt installation.

with the disc brakes you get better stopping power and you also get rid of the broken / drilled / welded / wrong spindle drama you have goin on for you.

Rest assured, when I save up another $5000 that spindle change will most certainly be done.

You didn't mention anything about an auto electrician for undoing the ratch done to my ABS.

wait... 5k for a Y11 wingroad ZVS rear wheel disc brake assembly.???

or u still plan on changing the spindles.??

forgot to say that when you converting from drum to disc you WILL have to buy the ENTIRE banjo setup.
you CANNOT just remove the drum setup from the banjo and bolt on the caliper and rotor.

the hand brake hooks up differently on both setups...so you'll need to buy the entire rear banjo..also referred to as a torsion beam. which includes the calipers...rotors...abs harness and sensors - with a jack on the end..... and complete hand brake cable....


well I didn't mention anything about the ABS. to disable the abs system all one has to do is simply remove the fuse from the fuse box - by the driver side foot well area. (remember when ABS fails the car brakes still work...just without any anti lock...press the pedal tooo hard and u lock up the wheels...and skid...)

at least that's what I HOPE he did.... if the ABS is disabled via the fuse , the existing wire harness and sensor to each wheel cud remain in place or removed - makes no difference really.

AGAIN - that's what I HOPE he did when you said he disabled it altogether. it depends on the level of intelligence of the auto electrician. lets hope he didn't cut up the wire harness to the ABS pump and sensors and such.

WRT brake proportioning valve and such you cud leave it as is... no need to change it. the car is FWD and the brake bias is set more towards the front anyway... the rear brake setup increases stopping power and also reduces stopping distance....a step up from drum brakes.

drum brakes are meant to last long..but they don't perform as well as disc brakes.

on some older type cars -b12/13/14 when they upgrade the brakes they change master cylinder and booster and such..as a result the amt of lines coming out from the master was more than what the original master cylinder had.. 2 lines vs 4 lines......so they ended up changing out proportioning valve and such.

when I did my swap to rear disc I wanted to change the proportional valve an such but I realized I got better brakes - it cud be in my head but to me it feels good as is... so I never bothered to change it out....
if I was going with a high HP engine then yes definitely the proportioning valve will be required to be replaced.

the common mod is to go steel braided lines in front along with bigger rotor and caliper.

bigger caliper = more pistons = more force on brake rotor = quicker stops....regardless if the proportioning valve was replaced or not- FWD = brake bias to the front

AWD cars and RWD cars will definitely need to replace the proportioning valve - but then again ive never come across a AWD or RWD with DRUM brakes that wanted to go up to disc...that also needed a proportioning valve...

TECH TIPS >>>

OP if you want to maximize on braking power - when you go up to the rear brake setup - also get some steel braided lines and install on all 4 wheel to replace the rubber flex lines.

after you install the rear disc brake please be sure to bleed it properly....after you bleed it out start the car and let the power brakes assist you in bleeding again... you'd be surprised what comes out of the lines & caliper and the difference it makes.

after you get your ABS back working - some ppl complain of a pedal feeling spongy and crappy.

simple procedure to fix this
get a straight empty road with no one in front or in the back....accelerate till you reach about 40kmh....and stomp on the brakes....this forces the ABS to kick in and pulse the pedal....hold the pedal -yes let it pulse - till the car stops.....

do the same in reverse....- ie put in reverse....accelerate....then stomp on the brakes.... do the same again going forward.
then stop...put in neutral...pump the brake pedal normally...and you should be good to go...
don't forget to check the master cylinder and add fluid as necessary.

wait... 5k for a Y11 wingroad ZVS rear wheel disc brake assembly.???
or u still plan on changing the spindles.??

Figure was a guesstimate on parts and labour. For now I can't afford it. But it will be done


well I didn't mention anything about the ABS. to disable the abs system all one has to do is simply remove the fuse from the fuse box - by the driver side foot well area. (remember when ABS fails the car brakes still work...just without any anti lock...press the pedal tooo hard and u lock up the wheels...and skid...)

at least that's what I HOPE he did.... if the ABS is disabled via the fuse , the existing wire harness and sensor to each wheel cud remain in place or removed - makes no difference really.

AGAIN - that's what I HOPE he did when you said he disabled it altogether. it depends on the level of intelligence of the auto electrician. lets hope he didn't cut up the wire harness to the ABS pump and sensors and such.

Well It was $1200 I paid by Kongo in Diego Martin at the time, and based on what you say, I get rip off either way.


drum brakes are meant to last long..but they don't perform as well as disc brakes.
LOL , I had a NEW pair of rear drums cutting in 8 months. Some idiot adjust rear brakes bad. Had to buy ANOTHER new set ($1000 for the pair imported each time)

When I ready to do this , I feel I headed your way. Sounds like you can handle this once and for it.

Witch Doctor wrote:
Figure was a guesstimate on parts and labour. For now I can't afford it. But it will be done

Well It was $1200 I paid by Kongo in Diego Martin at the time, and based on what you say, I get rip off either way.

LOL , I had a NEW pair of rear drums cutting in 8 months. Some idiot adjust rear brakes bad. Had to buy ANOTHER new set ($1000 for the pair imported each time)

When I ready to do this , I feel I headed your way. Sounds like you can handle this once and for it.

5 k is a lot but I don't think a ZVS setup THAT expensive...

dunno who / what kongo is in diego martin but regardless that's a STEEP price to pay.

WRT to adjusting the drums bad...the person supposed to ensure the hand brake is down....jack up the car and go under - remove the rubber plug at the back of the hub....using a flat screw driver adjust the ratchet mechanism....a few clicks at a time.
spin the drum and check for drag - hub should make close to one rotation...it should not bite hard nor spin freely...

if the drums were cutting you could have machined them- on the inside of the drum theres a max diameter number - stamped in mm - using a metal ruler measure from the inside edge of the drum through the center and across to the other side (diameter measurement )... once your measurement doesn't exceed the stamped #....you good.. measure before and after machining...

a Vernier caliper measuring tool wud come in very handy here..

if you have a Vernier caliper tool u cud buy foreign used drums.. measure it make sure it good.. and den buy it...

i'm not too sure what may have caused the drum to cut - it could be as how the person drilled the spindle to make it "more centre" I don't know....it could be the brake shoes not "squared up properly" ie installed - obviously you will have this problem

buddy I'm not a mechanic eah..I just know this stuff cause my father is a mech and I did the swap from drum to disc - so I know what it involves. -I did ALOT of research - a lot of other tuners helped me out advice etc so when I move up to disc the job was zero issues..

my dads mech did the swap for me - no my dad doesn't work any more - retired -

my advise to you would be the same thing racedriverpro said - check a tuner called anil sooknanan -7372330 or 3961036

he's a mechanic who could do the swap for you. doin the swap takes about 2-3 hours max
and he cud also source the complete ZVS banjo for you.

tell him EXACTLY what you want done. - swap out from drum to disc and you also want to have the ABS working once more.

a cheaper alternative is to just buy another complete drum brake banjo from the bamboo and use that.

My gratitude for all of your advice.

I've dealt with Anil before. Gave my car a nice tune-up a few Carnivals ago. Will check him in due course.