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The Official Car Care Thread

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nick639v2
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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » July 28th, 2022, 3:19 pm

^^^ well said on all parts with regards to the SRP and NXT and I also would rate the car pro iron X..

At the moment I’m looking to get a PH neutral foam soap for the maintenance washes as I’m running low, I currently use adams megafoam and with 1oz to 1L it’s a shaving cream finish..

what you guys using that could compete??

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby NR8 » July 28th, 2022, 8:09 pm

Alpha_2nr wrote:
NR8 wrote:Guys what's the most cost effective iron remover on the local market? Only product I'm finding right now is the Meguiar's Iron Decon 1 gallon which blows my budget.

Planning to do a couple full details soon. I've already got Megs M105 compound, Autoglym SRP and Megs NXT Tech Wax. Just bought Megs Hybrid Ceramic liquid wax to try out (already got the spray version which works a treat) hoping it helps with the current rains. One of the vehicles is white though, not sure if the SRP would give a good result or if there's a better polish available locally for it. This vehicle has heavy contamination hence the request for iron remover.


Some thoughts:

- Remember to use the least aggressive method to get the job done. Clear coat does not regenerate (neither does single stage).

- Are you working by hand or machine? DA or Rotary?

- M105 most times finishes okay (mild haze) on all but softer paints, but is a fairly aggressive compound IME. Don't know what car or level of defects you're working on, but a test spot is your friend. MF pads may have a higher chance of hazing....but again, it depends on the paint (test spot!).

- Are you using SRP then NXT 2.0? That may be slightly redundant IMO.
SRP has mild fillers and incorporates an LSP (aka wax or sealant). Topping SRP with NXT may up potentially affecting how NXT "adheres" to the paint (in my experience, I tried NXT over AG UDS some years ago, wasn't happy). Consider AG EGP over the SRP instead, since that's what its designed for. I got around 2-3 months durability with SRP/EGP. Had I used AG RD or AW I could have boosted that.

- I use CarPro Iron X. ZMMA had it at the time (I believe they are the agents).

Hey Alpha, appreciate your feedback.

I plan to use the M105 on a rotary with foam cutting pad. Don't have experience using MF pads for compounding, is this more aggressive than a foam pad? It's a 12 year old white vehicle that looks like it's never been detailed. Did try a test spot with the above which gave a good result.

With respect to the polish and wax, I was just listing what I have; accumulated over the years. If there's a budget friendly polish available locally (sub $150) that's better than the SRP I'd be happily open to suggestions. I was actually planning to use the SRP with a follow up of the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic liquid wax which I recently got to try for longer term protection. Any thoughts on this?

WRT to the iron remover, I was able to source Adam's 1 gallon for $385. I'm just a novice DIYer so this was most economical for me.

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby Alpha_2nr » July 28th, 2022, 9:39 pm

NR8 wrote:
Alpha_2nr wrote:
NR8 wrote:Guys what's the most cost effective iron remover on the local market? Only product I'm finding right now is the Meguiar's Iron Decon 1 gallon which blows my budget.

Planning to do a couple full details soon. I've already got Megs M105 compound, Autoglym SRP and Megs NXT Tech Wax. Just bought Megs Hybrid Ceramic liquid wax to try out (already got the spray version which works a treat) hoping it helps with the current rains. One of the vehicles is white though, not sure if the SRP would give a good result or if there's a better polish available locally for it. This vehicle has heavy contamination hence the request for iron remover.


Some thoughts:

- Remember to use the least aggressive method to get the job done. Clear coat does not regenerate (neither does single stage).

- Are you working by hand or machine? DA or Rotary?

- M105 most times finishes okay (mild haze) on all but softer paints, but is a fairly aggressive compound IME. Don't know what car or level of defects you're working on, but a test spot is your friend. MF pads may have a higher chance of hazing....but again, it depends on the paint (test spot!).

- Are you using SRP then NXT 2.0? That may be slightly redundant IMO.
SRP has mild fillers and incorporates an LSP (aka wax or sealant). Topping SRP with NXT may up potentially affecting how NXT "adheres" to the paint (in my experience, I tried NXT over AG UDS some years ago, wasn't happy). Consider AG EGP over the SRP instead, since that's what its designed for. I got around 2-3 months durability with SRP/EGP. Had I used AG RD or AW I could have boosted that.

- I use CarPro Iron X. ZMMA had it at the time (I believe they are the agents).

Hey Alpha, appreciate your feedback.

I plan to use the M105 on a rotary with foam cutting pad. Don't have experience using MF pads for compounding, is this more aggressive than a foam pad? It's a 12 year old white vehicle that looks like it's never been detailed. Did try a test spot with the above which gave a good result.

With respect to the polish and wax, I was just listing what I have; accumulated over the years. If there's a budget friendly polish available locally (sub $150) that's better than the SRP I'd be happily open to suggestions. I was actually planning to use the SRP with a follow up of the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic liquid wax which I recently got to try for longer term protection. Any thoughts on this?

WRT to the iron remover, I was able to source Adam's 1 gallon for $385. I'm just a novice DIYer so this was most economical for me.


1) In a recent class held by Michael Stoops (Meguiars), he had clarified that Ceramic Liquid Wax (CLW) worked best when preceded by their Ceramic Prep. The Ceramic Prep would remove minor defects, oils, fillers and whatnot (claying is still required prior to Ceramic Prep of course). Given that, I'm thinking using Ceramic Liquid on SRP may not be the best approach, since Ceramic Liquid apparently works best a surface free of oils and other materials.
I have zero experience using this combo, so this is just conjecture from me.

2) I prefer to stick to a "brand" per detail where possible, to ensure compatibility.

3) MF pad = microfibre pad. I was speaking in reference to DAs. Foam cutting pad + rotary with M105 may be quite aggressive. Ultimately you'd have to decide if this is what is required for the paint in question, or if a milder approach will also suffice.

4) M105 on a rotary w/ a cutting pad may likely leave "holograms", so watch out for that. If so, you'd need an additional step to remove holograms instead of just masking/hiding them like most shops do. The only way to know for sure would be to chemically remove any polishing oils or unintentional residue (using IPA or similar) after 105 and inspecting in the sun/bright light to observe if holograms exist.

5) If you've got SRP already, then then stick with the SRP in my opinion. No real sense in buying a bunch of new product while leaving existing stuff unused.

All I'd suggest is topping SRP with AutoGlym EGP (Extra Gloss Protection). A few places have it locally. It's designed to work with SRP and will boost durability/longevity of the SRP.

I'll defer to the experts on this thread (there are quite a few) for better guidance/correction on what I've said, as required.

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby carluva » July 28th, 2022, 11:26 pm

NR8.

If using the M105, you could try pairing with the M205 polish as both are designed to work with each other. The M205 does not have fillers so you can put virtually any wax or sealant on top of it.

Once you are done, use your Meguiars ceramic wax. With your maintenance washes thereafter, you can use the ceramic spray wax as a "topper". This should give good results for many months.

M205 should be easily available.

If you using the Autoglym SRP, then you should use a compatible wax/sealant due to the diminishing fillers in the SRP. Incompatible products may affect the performance of the final coat just as alpha has mentioned.

On the iron remover, ditto on the Carpro Iron X.

You should also plan to do a clay bar as the step between chemical decontamination and compounding. Just to be sure you have a clean surface to work with.

Also, make sure you know whether the paint on that 12 year old is single stage or if it has a clear coat. The former will require much more care when machine polishing as any mistakes will take you down to primer or even metal.
Last edited by carluva on July 28th, 2022, 11:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby carluva » July 28th, 2022, 11:35 pm

nick639v2 wrote:^^^ well said on all parts with regards to the SRP and NXT and I also would rate the car pro iron X..

At the moment I’m looking to get a PH neutral foam soap for the maintenance washes as I’m running low, I currently use adams megafoam and with 1oz to 1L it’s a shaving cream finish..

what you guys using that could compete??
I have used Chemical Guys Mr. Pink and Chemical Guys Honeydew. They both foam quite well.

I have recently tried the Ethos Foam Party and that foams incredibly.

Unfortunately, for these foams I have found that they quickly run off my coated vehicle due to the slickness of the surface, but they do perform quite well.

I also use Meguiars deep crystal car wash as it is very affordable. But I have never tried it in a foam cannon. I use it more for hand wash. I imagine it will do well(ish) in a foam cannon. Try it... At $50, can't go wrong for a pretty large bottle.

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby NR8 » July 29th, 2022, 9:57 am

Thanks for the feedback guys. Ditto on the clay bar, I normally use that before compounding.

First time trying the iron remover. Coming from the days of using Mother's 3 step wax system. Lol

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby kamakazi » July 30th, 2022, 2:21 pm

Amorall snow foam car wash

Turtle Wax(TW), wax and dry spray to help with drying sometimes

Turtle wax seal and shine if time is limited

Amorall extreme shield wax if I have a little more time

TW ICE paste wax with TW instant detailer when I have the time

Also have a list of old products to use out but these are the main items I like to use.


The weather seems to take its toll on the upward facing panels more than than the sides so I apply the more "sturdy" products to those.

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby A172 » August 28th, 2022, 1:49 pm



this is the current state of my paint after correction and ceramic coating

to keep it swirl free; buckets with grit guards, different cloths, drying towels, wheel woolies, brushes, never reuse the same cloth either

Nerta active diamond for soap, Air Cannon for touchless drying, ceramic maintenance spray to keep it slick

real simple and effective

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby hindian » October 24th, 2022, 6:56 am

Fellas what is the best way to get rid of water stains on my glass? It driving me crazy because it’s really bad on my 2 vehicles . Someone told me buffing machine and cutting compound? I dunno don’t want to make it worse so I’m asking the pros…

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby adnj » October 24th, 2022, 8:24 am

hindian wrote:Fellas what is the best way to get rid of water stains on my glass? It driving me crazy because it’s really bad on my 2 vehicles . Someone told me buffing machine and cutting compound? I dunno don’t want to make it worse so I’m asking the pros…


How bad are the stains? For scratches, I use 2.5µ diamond paste. For simple hard water stains, I use 50:50 water and vinegar. spray, wait, rinse, and wipe. You can then polish with a vinegar baking soda paste.

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby king p11 » October 24th, 2022, 8:13 pm

Good night all where sells rupes LHR 15 mark iii and price range

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby king p11 » November 2nd, 2022, 3:22 pm

king p11 wrote:Good night all where sells rupes LHR 15 mark iii and price range

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby FineToothDetailing » November 8th, 2022, 2:40 pm

Havent posted in awhile. Worked on this one today. Paited last week by a guy in diego. Want to get his info because the work is better than moat that i see.
IMG_20221108_135555.jpg
IMG_20221108_135527.jpg

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby MaxPower » November 25th, 2022, 9:38 pm

Team,

I have noticed alot of Trini “detailers” are soaping door panels, dashboards and consoles etc and then using the steamer.

The carpet i can understand as the extractor comes to play, but when interior parts are soaped and the pressure from the steamer pushes the soap dirt further into creases and crevices, how are these Trini detailers cleaning the soap dirt?

The surface may look clean and shiny but this technique can cause dirt build up in the internals that are hard to reach unless a total scrap out is done.

How clean are we really cleaning?

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The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » November 26th, 2022, 9:45 pm

Out of sight, out of mind.. ALOT of people doing that these days, my neighbor just get catch where he pay for a buff and polish.. the ‘detailer’ used glaze to hide the bad work and now a couple washes in, the amount of paint burn and swirls showing its head

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby *KRONIK* » December 1st, 2022, 9:04 am

Fellaz

Some advice needed here:

So they fix a portion of the road with oilsand a good while back
The rains somehow disslove the oilsand, you smell heavy tar after the rain fall and there is a film of oil residue floating in the water in the road.
I didnt pay it much attention...
But i now notice the side of the car that faces the road is covered with little drops of tar, like the whole broadside, wheel, even parts of the front and back bumper.

What allyuh recommend i can use to remove it?
I know bout pitchoil/kerosene, but i not sure of its long term effects on the paint

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » December 1st, 2022, 10:29 pm

*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz

Some advice needed here:

So they fix a portion of the road with oilsand a good while back
The rains somehow disslove the oilsand, you smell heavy tar after the rain fall and there is a film of oil residue floating in the water in the road.
I didnt pay it much attention...
But i now notice the side of the car that faces the road is covered with little drops of tar, like the whole broadside, wheel, even parts of the front and back bumper.

What allyuh recommend i can use to remove it?
I know bout pitchoil/kerosene, but i not sure of its long term effects on the paint



Car pro TarX

The jeep I coated is covered in the same thing you talking bout, that coupled with some sheit at the dealership pretty much killed the graphene coating (3-5yr expectancy)..

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby *KRONIK* » December 2nd, 2022, 6:19 am

nick639v2 wrote:
*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz

Some advice needed here:

So they fix a portion of the road with oilsand a good while back
The rains somehow disslove the oilsand, you smell heavy tar after the rain fall and there is a film of oil residue floating in the water in the road.
I didnt pay it much attention...
But i now notice the side of the car that faces the road is covered with little drops of tar, like the whole broadside, wheel, even parts of the front and back bumper.

What allyuh recommend i can use to remove it?
I know bout pitchoil/kerosene, but i not sure of its long term effects on the paint



Car pro TarX

The jeep I coated is covered in the same thing you talking bout, that coupled with some sheit at the dealership pretty much killed the graphene coating (3-5yr expectancy)..
Ok
I will see if i can source this...
Closest place for carpro stuff for me is garagefresh...
I hope they have

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The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » December 10th, 2022, 6:45 pm

IMG_3555.JPG


Straight out the camera. the cloudy sky lighting did magic lol

Nerta diamond touchless wash
3d car care Spray wax contact wash
3d wash and wax

(Trying this brand out since my Adams stuff are running low)

Still have some repairs to do before I paint correct this but I can still get it to pop with minimal effort.
Last edited by nick639v2 on December 10th, 2022, 6:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » December 10th, 2022, 6:57 pm

IMG_3416.JPG


Update on this, 8months in the ‘free’ adams graphene advanced coating done by me

3week interval of wash maintenance
Adams megafoam pre wash
Adams wash + coat contact wash
Adams CS3 drying aid.

No real degradation of coating so far with regard to beading and water repellents, the water spots are what’s killing me because of work I have no choice but to leave it to bake on sometimes.

Coating is advertised for 7 year, but I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes. Black, a fikkle beyotch, no matter how careful I am, the wash swirls and little track pinstripes are unavoidable.

If you’re anal like me I think the best move is to go for 2-3yr cheaper coatings or ritual waxing on black daily work horses because that’s how long I think it’ll take for me to do correction on this again. Update will continue at the 1 year point

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby Kronik » December 10th, 2022, 10:45 pm

nick639v2 wrote:
IMG_3416.JPG


Update on this, 8months in the ‘free’ adams graphene advanced coating done by me

3week interval of wash maintenance
Adams megafoam pre wash
Adams wash + coat contact wash
Adams CS3 drying aid.

No real degradation of coating so far with regard to beading and water repellents, the water spots are what’s killing me because of work I have no choice but to leave it to bake on sometimes.

Coating is advertised for 7 year, but I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes. Black, a fikkle beyotch, no matter how careful I am, the wash swirls and little track pinstripes are unavoidable.

If you’re anal like me I think the best move is to go for 2-3yr cheaper coatings or ritual waxing on black daily work horses because that’s how long I think it’ll take for me to do correction on this again. Update will continue at the 1 year point
You know I was wondering if to go for a 3-5 year coating or a 2-3 year coating for the non daily driver, because there is a big price difference, thinking the 2-3 year would be better.
And might do the same for the daily but with more small ceramic refresh coatings every year or 6 months as needed, because the daily is black

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby kamakazi » December 11th, 2022, 3:34 am

nick639v2 wrote:
IMG_3416.JPG


Update on this, 8months in the ‘free’ adams graphene advanced coating done by me

3week interval of wash maintenance
Adams megafoam pre wash
Adams wash + coat contact wash
Adams CS3 drying aid.

No real degradation of coating so far with regard to beading and water repellents, the water spots are what’s killing me because of work I have no choice but to leave it to bake on sometimes.

Coating is advertised for 7 year, but I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes. Black, a fikkle beyotch, no matter how careful I am, the wash swirls and little track pinstripes are unavoidable.

If you’re anal like me I think the best move is to go for 2-3yr cheaper coatings or ritual waxing on black daily work horses because that’s how long I think it’ll take for me to do correction on this again. Update will continue at the 1 year point


I need a bit of clarification. How do you know if the coating has lasted.

Two of the products you listed contain ceramic in them; the wash and coat and the CS3.

Do you know if regular use of those or similar products is required to give a coating its claimed longevity.

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The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » December 11th, 2022, 7:47 am

kamakazi wrote:
nick639v2 wrote:
IMG_3416.JPG


Update on this, 8months in the ‘free’ adams graphene advanced coating done by me

3week interval of wash maintenance
Adams megafoam pre wash
Adams wash + coat contact wash
Adams CS3 drying aid.

No real degradation of coating so far with regard to beading and water repellents, the water spots are what’s killing me because of work I have no choice but to leave it to bake on sometimes.

Coating is advertised for 7 year, but I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes. Black, a fikkle beyotch, no matter how careful I am, the wash swirls and little track pinstripes are unavoidable.

If you’re anal like me I think the best move is to go for 2-3yr cheaper coatings or ritual waxing on black daily work horses because that’s how long I think it’ll take for me to do correction on this again. Update will continue at the 1 year point


I need a bit of clarification. How do you know if the coating has lasted.

Two of the products you listed contain ceramic in them; the wash and coat and the CS3.

Do you know if regular use of those or similar products is required to give a coating its claimed longevity.


This coating specifically contains UV tracers, the tracers are not present in the cs3 or the w+c

When I shine a black light on the paint and inspect I can see what’s still there.

To be fair yes the products used will help with longevity but it’s layer is soo sacrificial I would guess it’s gone in a couple days of the elements. Our road grime eats protectants very quick
Last edited by nick639v2 on December 11th, 2022, 7:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » December 11th, 2022, 7:51 am

Kronik wrote:
nick639v2 wrote:
IMG_3416.JPG


Update on this, 8months in the ‘free’ adams graphene advanced coating done by me

3week interval of wash maintenance
Adams megafoam pre wash
Adams wash + coat contact wash
Adams CS3 drying aid.

No real degradation of coating so far with regard to beading and water repellents, the water spots are what’s killing me because of work I have no choice but to leave it to bake on sometimes.

Coating is advertised for 7 year, but I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes. Black, a fikkle beyotch, no matter how careful I am, the wash swirls and little track pinstripes are unavoidable.

If you’re anal like me I think the best move is to go for 2-3yr cheaper coatings or ritual waxing on black daily work horses because that’s how long I think it’ll take for me to do correction on this again. Update will continue at the 1 year point
You know I was wondering if to go for a 3-5 year coating or a 2-3 year coating for the non daily driver, because there is a big price difference, thinking the 2-3 year would be better.
And might do the same for the daily but with more small ceramic refresh coatings every year or 6 months as needed, because the daily is black



Yup I agree. Cuz I man love to take care of my vehicles and I think anything over 2.5 years definitely will need correction again to get back the sweet spot

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby kamakazi » December 11th, 2022, 4:14 pm

Thanks for the response.

Hydrophobicity might not be the best thing to judge when paint protection is gone, but it is the only visual indication I have.
I usually get around 4 months with sealants which transition over the period from water beading to where the water appears to stick to the surface
As the vehicle is exposed to elements the areas that fail earliest is the hood and the roof of the cab
Personally It's tough to justify a ceramic coating on a daily driver, when a decent sealant can cover the vehicle for about the same time period for a quarter of the price, with a little more effort on weekends.

Wheels however...I think it makes more sense for due too the limitations in accessibility.

I am also not a fan of buying into a ceramic coating system. It feels like you are locked into whatever products are supplied by your choice of coating; So if you choose Adams it's all Adams, same goes for Carpro, Gyeon, etc

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The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » December 12th, 2022, 9:33 pm

IMG_3565.JPG


This was my test vehicle for my personal comfort of alkaline soaps, the work van, 18 month of nerta touchless washes followed by monthly cheap spray waxes etc. No touching and 30mins to finish. This van is heavy use and uncovered most times. Still comes out ok but due for paint correction

Verdict: I’ll keep using touchless products, I notice no real degradation so far

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby NR8 » May 19th, 2023, 10:37 am

Anybody ever used Chemical Guys Barebones undercarriage dressing? Looking for feedback on durability.

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » May 19th, 2023, 12:28 pm

NR8 wrote:Anybody ever used Chemical Guys Barebones undercarriage dressing? Looking for feedback on durability.


Cheap tyre shine from interchem does the same job. The secret is proper cleaning of the undersides first

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Re: The Official Car Care Thread

Postby NR8 » May 19th, 2023, 1:59 pm

nick639v2 wrote:
NR8 wrote:Anybody ever used Chemical Guys Barebones undercarriage dressing? Looking for feedback on durability.


Cheap tyre shine from interchem does the same job. The secret is proper cleaning of the undersides first

How long does the Interchem shine last?

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The Official Car Care Thread

Postby nick639v2 » May 20th, 2023, 7:57 am

NR8 wrote:
nick639v2 wrote:
NR8 wrote:Anybody ever used Chemical Guys Barebones undercarriage dressing? Looking for feedback on durability.


Cheap tyre shine from interchem does the same job. The secret is proper cleaning of the undersides first

How long does the Interchem shine last?


Because under my fenders is thoroughly cleaned I’d say monthly reapply is needed or when you clean just hit it a spray with a fine mist sprayer. Obviously when the rain comes it’ll deteriorate faster

Nerta touchless wash on wheels and under places I do monthly.

This is my np300

IMG_5219.JPG

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