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Alpha_2nr wrote:NR8 wrote:Guys what's the most cost effective iron remover on the local market? Only product I'm finding right now is the Meguiar's Iron Decon 1 gallon which blows my budget.
Planning to do a couple full details soon. I've already got Megs M105 compound, Autoglym SRP and Megs NXT Tech Wax. Just bought Megs Hybrid Ceramic liquid wax to try out (already got the spray version which works a treat) hoping it helps with the current rains. One of the vehicles is white though, not sure if the SRP would give a good result or if there's a better polish available locally for it. This vehicle has heavy contamination hence the request for iron remover.
Some thoughts:
- Remember to use the least aggressive method to get the job done. Clear coat does not regenerate (neither does single stage).
- Are you working by hand or machine? DA or Rotary?
- M105 most times finishes okay (mild haze) on all but softer paints, but is a fairly aggressive compound IME. Don't know what car or level of defects you're working on, but a test spot is your friend. MF pads may have a higher chance of hazing....but again, it depends on the paint (test spot!).
- Are you using SRP then NXT 2.0? That may be slightly redundant IMO.
SRP has mild fillers and incorporates an LSP (aka wax or sealant). Topping SRP with NXT may up potentially affecting how NXT "adheres" to the paint (in my experience, I tried NXT over AG UDS some years ago, wasn't happy). Consider AG EGP over the SRP instead, since that's what its designed for. I got around 2-3 months durability with SRP/EGP. Had I used AG RD or AW I could have boosted that.
- I use CarPro Iron X. ZMMA had it at the time (I believe they are the agents).
NR8 wrote:Alpha_2nr wrote:NR8 wrote:Guys what's the most cost effective iron remover on the local market? Only product I'm finding right now is the Meguiar's Iron Decon 1 gallon which blows my budget.
Planning to do a couple full details soon. I've already got Megs M105 compound, Autoglym SRP and Megs NXT Tech Wax. Just bought Megs Hybrid Ceramic liquid wax to try out (already got the spray version which works a treat) hoping it helps with the current rains. One of the vehicles is white though, not sure if the SRP would give a good result or if there's a better polish available locally for it. This vehicle has heavy contamination hence the request for iron remover.
Some thoughts:
- Remember to use the least aggressive method to get the job done. Clear coat does not regenerate (neither does single stage).
- Are you working by hand or machine? DA or Rotary?
- M105 most times finishes okay (mild haze) on all but softer paints, but is a fairly aggressive compound IME. Don't know what car or level of defects you're working on, but a test spot is your friend. MF pads may have a higher chance of hazing....but again, it depends on the paint (test spot!).
- Are you using SRP then NXT 2.0? That may be slightly redundant IMO.
SRP has mild fillers and incorporates an LSP (aka wax or sealant). Topping SRP with NXT may up potentially affecting how NXT "adheres" to the paint (in my experience, I tried NXT over AG UDS some years ago, wasn't happy). Consider AG EGP over the SRP instead, since that's what its designed for. I got around 2-3 months durability with SRP/EGP. Had I used AG RD or AW I could have boosted that.
- I use CarPro Iron X. ZMMA had it at the time (I believe they are the agents).
Hey Alpha, appreciate your feedback.
I plan to use the M105 on a rotary with foam cutting pad. Don't have experience using MF pads for compounding, is this more aggressive than a foam pad? It's a 12 year old white vehicle that looks like it's never been detailed. Did try a test spot with the above which gave a good result.
With respect to the polish and wax, I was just listing what I have; accumulated over the years. If there's a budget friendly polish available locally (sub $150) that's better than the SRP I'd be happily open to suggestions. I was actually planning to use the SRP with a follow up of the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic liquid wax which I recently got to try for longer term protection. Any thoughts on this?
WRT to the iron remover, I was able to source Adam's 1 gallon for $385. I'm just a novice DIYer so this was most economical for me.
I have used Chemical Guys Mr. Pink and Chemical Guys Honeydew. They both foam quite well.nick639v2 wrote:^^^ well said on all parts with regards to the SRP and NXT and I also would rate the car pro iron X..
At the moment I’m looking to get a PH neutral foam soap for the maintenance washes as I’m running low, I currently use adams megafoam and with 1oz to 1L it’s a shaving cream finish..
what you guys using that could compete??
hindian wrote:Fellas what is the best way to get rid of water stains on my glass? It driving me crazy because it’s really bad on my 2 vehicles . Someone told me buffing machine and cutting compound? I dunno don’t want to make it worse so I’m asking the pros…
king p11 wrote:Good night all where sells rupes LHR 15 mark iii and price range
*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz
Some advice needed here:
So they fix a portion of the road with oilsand a good while back
The rains somehow disslove the oilsand, you smell heavy tar after the rain fall and there is a film of oil residue floating in the water in the road.
I didnt pay it much attention...
But i now notice the side of the car that faces the road is covered with little drops of tar, like the whole broadside, wheel, even parts of the front and back bumper.
What allyuh recommend i can use to remove it?
I know bout pitchoil/kerosene, but i not sure of its long term effects on the paint
Oknick639v2 wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz
Some advice needed here:
So they fix a portion of the road with oilsand a good while back
The rains somehow disslove the oilsand, you smell heavy tar after the rain fall and there is a film of oil residue floating in the water in the road.
I didnt pay it much attention...
But i now notice the side of the car that faces the road is covered with little drops of tar, like the whole broadside, wheel, even parts of the front and back bumper.
What allyuh recommend i can use to remove it?
I know bout pitchoil/kerosene, but i not sure of its long term effects on the paint
Car pro TarX
The jeep I coated is covered in the same thing you talking bout, that coupled with some sheit at the dealership pretty much killed the graphene coating (3-5yr expectancy)..
You know I was wondering if to go for a 3-5 year coating or a 2-3 year coating for the non daily driver, because there is a big price difference, thinking the 2-3 year would be better.nick639v2 wrote:
Update on this, 8months in the ‘free’ adams graphene advanced coating done by me
3week interval of wash maintenance
Adams megafoam pre wash
Adams wash + coat contact wash
Adams CS3 drying aid.
No real degradation of coating so far with regard to beading and water repellents, the water spots are what’s killing me because of work I have no choice but to leave it to bake on sometimes.
Coating is advertised for 7 year, but I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes. Black, a fikkle beyotch, no matter how careful I am, the wash swirls and little track pinstripes are unavoidable.
If you’re anal like me I think the best move is to go for 2-3yr cheaper coatings or ritual waxing on black daily work horses because that’s how long I think it’ll take for me to do correction on this again. Update will continue at the 1 year point
nick639v2 wrote:
Update on this, 8months in the ‘free’ adams graphene advanced coating done by me
3week interval of wash maintenance
Adams megafoam pre wash
Adams wash + coat contact wash
Adams CS3 drying aid.
No real degradation of coating so far with regard to beading and water repellents, the water spots are what’s killing me because of work I have no choice but to leave it to bake on sometimes.
Coating is advertised for 7 year, but I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes. Black, a fikkle beyotch, no matter how careful I am, the wash swirls and little track pinstripes are unavoidable.
If you’re anal like me I think the best move is to go for 2-3yr cheaper coatings or ritual waxing on black daily work horses because that’s how long I think it’ll take for me to do correction on this again. Update will continue at the 1 year point
kamakazi wrote:nick639v2 wrote:
Update on this, 8months in the ‘free’ adams graphene advanced coating done by me
3week interval of wash maintenance
Adams megafoam pre wash
Adams wash + coat contact wash
Adams CS3 drying aid.
No real degradation of coating so far with regard to beading and water repellents, the water spots are what’s killing me because of work I have no choice but to leave it to bake on sometimes.
Coating is advertised for 7 year, but I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes. Black, a fikkle beyotch, no matter how careful I am, the wash swirls and little track pinstripes are unavoidable.
If you’re anal like me I think the best move is to go for 2-3yr cheaper coatings or ritual waxing on black daily work horses because that’s how long I think it’ll take for me to do correction on this again. Update will continue at the 1 year point
I need a bit of clarification. How do you know if the coating has lasted.
Two of the products you listed contain ceramic in them; the wash and coat and the CS3.
Do you know if regular use of those or similar products is required to give a coating its claimed longevity.
Kronik wrote:You know I was wondering if to go for a 3-5 year coating or a 2-3 year coating for the non daily driver, because there is a big price difference, thinking the 2-3 year would be better.nick639v2 wrote:
Update on this, 8months in the ‘free’ adams graphene advanced coating done by me
3week interval of wash maintenance
Adams megafoam pre wash
Adams wash + coat contact wash
Adams CS3 drying aid.
No real degradation of coating so far with regard to beading and water repellents, the water spots are what’s killing me because of work I have no choice but to leave it to bake on sometimes.
Coating is advertised for 7 year, but I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes. Black, a fikkle beyotch, no matter how careful I am, the wash swirls and little track pinstripes are unavoidable.
If you’re anal like me I think the best move is to go for 2-3yr cheaper coatings or ritual waxing on black daily work horses because that’s how long I think it’ll take for me to do correction on this again. Update will continue at the 1 year point
And might do the same for the daily but with more small ceramic refresh coatings every year or 6 months as needed, because the daily is black
NR8 wrote:Anybody ever used Chemical Guys Barebones undercarriage dressing? Looking for feedback on durability.
nick639v2 wrote:NR8 wrote:Anybody ever used Chemical Guys Barebones undercarriage dressing? Looking for feedback on durability.
Cheap tyre shine from interchem does the same job. The secret is proper cleaning of the undersides first
NR8 wrote:nick639v2 wrote:NR8 wrote:Anybody ever used Chemical Guys Barebones undercarriage dressing? Looking for feedback on durability.
Cheap tyre shine from interchem does the same job. The secret is proper cleaning of the undersides first
How long does the Interchem shine last?
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