Car audio advice thread

[Rage Warrior]

Is this fabric or plastic ?

But yeah hoss, Evo stik/silicone/even hot glue or wood glue would hold this smol tweety boi

Just need to prepare the surfaces and hold it in place while it cures. Yuh overcomplicating it

Hot glue holding my tweeters in place rn big man ting. Once it's not in direct contact with sunlight/heat it'll last a good while

Plastic

[ruffneck_12]

brudda mannnnnnnnnnn look it have a space for the tweeter there

I did an install in a wingroad a time and it has the same tweeter space.

I just cut a piece of 1inch PVC pipe at an angle to hold the 1inch tweeter to direct it towards the listener (it fit perfectly) And I hot glue he arse inside d hole

better to make mistakes behind a panel than on top it bai. This A pillar shroud pops off easy too, issa nissan

yuh overcomplicating d scenes bai

[*KRONIK*]

Woi fellaz

I had my tweeters flush mounted in to the lil triangle finisher in the door

It does fall out occassionaly, what does bond well to then type of plastics?
Looks like ABS on both the tweeter cup and the finisher

[Dave]

Epoxy plastic or the same two side red backing tape

[*KRONIK*]

Epoxy plastic or the same two side red backing tape

I studying the tape ting inno

[ruffneck_12]

Woi fellaz

I had my tweeters flush mounted in to the lil triangle finisher in the door

It does fall out occassionaly, what does bond well to then type of plastics?
Looks like ABS on both the tweeter cup and the finisher

If there's a hole cut already.... Silicone or even hot glue will do the trick. Tweeters are usually the first speaker to blow in a system. Would be ketch arse to have to dig out epoxy neatly from it

[*KRONIK*]

Woi fellaz

I had my tweeters flush mounted in to the lil triangle finisher in the door

It does fall out occassionaly, what does bond well to then type of plastics?
Looks like ABS on both the tweeter cup and the finisher

If there's a hole cut already.... Silicone or even hot glue will do the trick. Tweeters are usually the first speaker to blow in a system. Would be ketch arse to have to dig out epoxy neatly from it

Noted

I feel the tape is the way forward

[*KRONIK*]

Ok, so i try some bondic resin on 3 corners at the back, i go re-install the ting and see if if go hold up
Option 2 is to jam some silicone

[Jeremy09]

Ok, so i try some bondic resin on 3 corners at the back, i go re-install the ting and see if if go hold up
Option 2 is to jam some silicone

Silicone worked for me. I dont have the tweeter panels. I uninstall, applied to the tweeter and let it cure for 24hrs before reinstall...the 3m two sided tape did not work, feel off after a couple days. (Yes, surfaces were cleaned properly)

[sMASH]

Without creating a new thread, anywhere locally selling parts to repair square kicker speakers?

[rollingstock]

Like what parts. Might get the spider locally. Cone nd surround would be a no of course. The voice coil maybe. The older L7 some are compatible with the replacement soundstream 2.5" xpro coil.

[Rovin]

better u ask some of dem popular speaker repairmen if they have d parts or for guidance as to what will work up ...

[X_Factor]

Without creating a new thread, anywhere locally selling parts to repair square kicker speakers?

i doubt u getting that locally, ebay has them for around 30usd cone/suspension

i know of ppl just changing the basket and making a regular sub using the motor

[shake d livin wake d dead]

Without creating a new thread, anywhere locally selling parts to repair square kicker speakers?

Fuzz is the new kicker dealer...I have 2 damaged L7s doing nothing if you want to buy them

[sMASH]

I want to use the surrounds to try out the passive radiators.

Just the surrounds am Interested in.

[shake d livin wake d dead]

Suspension bad in these

[sMASH]

Suspension bad in these

How much was those new?

[shake d livin wake d dead]

Back in the day was 1500-2000

[sMASH]

*have many subs already, dont need moar*

[nick639v2]

Top tip: anyone with a audiocontrol dsp, per channel eq and all pass filters are a go on the new update. As well as better Bluetooth and digital input sources

[Jeremy09]

Ahhh Tunerr menn,
JLs still playing nice man, you know it nice when i not here asking for advice.
But hear this. I in the market of a used car, is there a forum for some advice on that?

[Rovin]

man like jerajmy - we might hadda stop calling u dat ...

nice to hear d JL c1 working out good for u, hopefully ur hearing & appreciating things in music coming off from ur norm of pro audio speakers

better u go on d ole talk section to ask bout cars then posting off topic here b4 d mods boof yuh ...

[Jeremy09]

Bringing up an ole post here, ent hear from alyh ina while.

C1s with C2's crossover still going good, want to try some tuning. Still haven't got around adding an amp as yet.
My question comes as am using the deck to do everything (cheap elektra with no features). This head unit doesn't have cross over or hpf/lpf cut offs and I've been just EQing out the lower frequencies. Not sure what rolloff the deck naturally comes with but what to use as my cut off on the c1? the EQ on the deck has 31Hz, 50Hz, 62Hz, 100Hz, 125Hz, 180Hz, 250Hz and so on, all these have +/- 12.
https://www.elektramobileaudio.com/mhu-32bt-head-unit/

[*KRONIK*]

Man like jeremy... back on the scene

[david12]

Guys, how important is it to take EBP (Energy bandwidth product) into account when choosing between sealed or ported? If the EBP suggests that the sub would be better suited for a sealed application, will it not perform well in a ported enclosure or vice versa?

Is it a rough guide or something to stick with?

[sMASH]

Rough rule of thumb guide.

When u use thr calculators long enough, u get a feel of whst parameters give whst results.
What u can stretch and hiw much.


Especially with spl systems.

Sq systems where accuracy is focus, then it plays a pertinent part

[TriniBimmer]

Fellas, good to see so many people still getting after it with their car audio setups! There's some really solid advice throughout this thread.

Jeremy, glad to hear the C1s are still treating you well. For that head unit, I'd probably set the EQ to cut everything below 100Hz, maybe even 125Hz to be safe. That should help protect the speakers until you can add an amp with a proper crossover. Keep us posted on how it goes.

And david12, I agree with what sMASH said about EBP being a good general guide for sealed vs ported. It's not an absolute rule, but it can steer you in the right direction, especially when you're looking for accurate sound quality. The modeling is really the best way to know for sure though.

[david12]

Thanks for the responses guys. Considering building over a smaller ported enclosure or a sealed enclosure just to try it out. The current enclosure I have was built for a physically larger subwoofer with slightly more power handling. Roughly 1.9ft³ tuned to 28hz.

[timelapse]

Anybody heard from ROvin lately?I hope all is well

[david12]

For real, I find it's a while now I haven't seen him post.