Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
JL audio TW3-d4 10"rollingstock wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:TBHRovin wrote:i suggest start to do d install yourself , its not rocket science & if u feel d need for self confidence watch some YT videos
start it in stages, 1 step at a time when u have free time :
install deck & run all rcas along with remote wire to where d amps going
install door speakers & run speaker wires to amp location , if u doing sound deadening to ur doors : do that 1st
run power wire from front to amps , do amp rack , wire up
final stage, adjust decks settings & start to tune ur amp ... if u need help with that check ur padna
It started off as a 12v accessory system
I figured, if i hadda bring a current wire in the cab, may as well put a size big enough to support an amp (in the future)
And i am perfectly capable of handling the majority of the install.
Pioneer NEX series deck is already installed.
I already drilled off the rivets on the doors
Installed stainless steel rivnuts
Sourced PVC risers/adapters from LSC
Installed NVX silicone baffles
Backed the risers with closed cell foam (for vibration)
I already made up a harness (soldered, heat shrink, tesatape) with speedwire and a Metra dash harness.
I know the best things is to run fresh wires, but i wont do that until the van is repainted, then i will do new wires from amp to speaker and full sound deadening.
I even have the speakers installed in the risers already.
I buy harness adapters for the doors, so i wont have to cut the OE speaker plug. Will cut and extend the adapter instead.
As for the front, i just need a location to mount the passive crossover.
Sail panels have been cut and modified to accept the new tweeters. Those are installed already.
RCAs have been labelled
My biggest hurdles are to build a rack under the seat to accept the current wire to a distribution block and wire the 12v system and amp.
2nd hurdle is that i no wood work skill....at all.
So i prefer not to waste time trying to do that
...i prefer pay for that service.
3rd is the box....i was looking at a design with a bottom slot port. Also looking at incorporating the amp behind the seat, near the box.
Back to previous point, i dont know much about box building/tuning etc.
Hence i opted to have someone experienced do it.
Finally, i just need the speakers check to make sure i wire the polarities correct and i think i go be good dey.
Was considering adding an epicentre, but thats neither here nor there ATM.
You already did most of the install yourself.
What sub/s you using? I can probably mock up an enclosure for you. Power, and tuning you require? And the dimension of the space available for the enclosure.
As i mentioned in the post abovetimelapse wrote:Take some pics Kronik,of where you planning to put the sub and amp.Some measurements would be great as well.Fiberglass not as hard as it seems if you want to go that route
Andtimelapse wrote:Take some pics Kronik,of where you planning to put the sub and amp.Some measurements would be great as well.Fiberglass not as hard as it seems if you want to go that route
*KRONIK* wrote:JL audio TW3-d4 10"rollingstock wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:TBHRovin wrote:i suggest start to do d install yourself , its not rocket science & if u feel d need for self confidence watch some YT videos
start it in stages, 1 step at a time when u have free time :
install deck & run all rcas along with remote wire to where d amps going
install door speakers & run speaker wires to amp location , if u doing sound deadening to ur doors : do that 1st
run power wire from front to amps , do amp rack , wire up
final stage, adjust decks settings & start to tune ur amp ... if u need help with that check ur padna
It started off as a 12v accessory system
I figured, if i hadda bring a current wire in the cab, may as well put a size big enough to support an amp (in the future)
And i am perfectly capable of handling the majority of the install.
Pioneer NEX series deck is already installed.
I already drilled off the rivets on the doors
Installed stainless steel rivnuts
Sourced PVC risers/adapters from LSC
Installed NVX silicone baffles
Backed the risers with closed cell foam (for vibration)
I already made up a harness (soldered, heat shrink, tesatape) with speedwire and a Metra dash harness.
I know the best things is to run fresh wires, but i wont do that until the van is repainted, then i will do new wires from amp to speaker and full sound deadening.
I even have the speakers installed in the risers already.
I buy harness adapters for the doors, so i wont have to cut the OE speaker plug. Will cut and extend the adapter instead.
As for the front, i just need a location to mount the passive crossover.
Sail panels have been cut and modified to accept the new tweeters. Those are installed already.
RCAs have been labelled
My biggest hurdles are to build a rack under the seat to accept the current wire to a distribution block and wire the 12v system and amp.
2nd hurdle is that i no wood work skill....at all.
So i prefer not to waste time trying to do that
...i prefer pay for that service.
3rd is the box....i was looking at a design with a bottom slot port. Also looking at incorporating the amp behind the seat, near the box.
Back to previous point, i dont know much about box building/tuning etc.
Hence i opted to have someone experienced do it.
Finally, i just need the speakers check to make sure i wire the polarities correct and i think i go be good dey.
Was considering adding an epicentre, but thats neither here nor there ATM.
You already did most of the install yourself.
What sub/s you using? I can probably mock up an enclosure for you. Power, and tuning you require? And the dimension of the space available for the enclosure.
Needs to fit behind the seat of a hilux
I know they can function on small volumes, so if an amp rack can fit somewhere close by, will be great
Correct, there is a bar across the middle, about ½way uprollingstock wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:JL audio TW3-d4 10"rollingstock wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:TBHRovin wrote:i suggest start to do d install yourself , its not rocket science & if u feel d need for self confidence watch some YT videos
start it in stages, 1 step at a time when u have free time :
install deck & run all rcas along with remote wire to where d amps going
install door speakers & run speaker wires to amp location , if u doing sound deadening to ur doors : do that 1st
run power wire from front to amps , do amp rack , wire up
final stage, adjust decks settings & start to tune ur amp ... if u need help with that check ur padna
It started off as a 12v accessory system
I figured, if i hadda bring a current wire in the cab, may as well put a size big enough to support an amp (in the future)
And i am perfectly capable of handling the majority of the install.
Pioneer NEX series deck is already installed.
I already drilled off the rivets on the doors
Installed stainless steel rivnuts
Sourced PVC risers/adapters from LSC
Installed NVX silicone baffles
Backed the risers with closed cell foam (for vibration)
I already made up a harness (soldered, heat shrink, tesatape) with speedwire and a Metra dash harness.
I know the best things is to run fresh wires, but i wont do that until the van is repainted, then i will do new wires from amp to speaker and full sound deadening.
I even have the speakers installed in the risers already.
I buy harness adapters for the doors, so i wont have to cut the OE speaker plug. Will cut and extend the adapter instead.
As for the front, i just need a location to mount the passive crossover.
Sail panels have been cut and modified to accept the new tweeters. Those are installed already.
RCAs have been labelled
My biggest hurdles are to build a rack under the seat to accept the current wire to a distribution block and wire the 12v system and amp.
2nd hurdle is that i no wood work skill....at all.
So i prefer not to waste time trying to do that
...i prefer pay for that service.
3rd is the box....i was looking at a design with a bottom slot port. Also looking at incorporating the amp behind the seat, near the box.
Back to previous point, i dont know much about box building/tuning etc.
Hence i opted to have someone experienced do it.
Finally, i just need the speakers check to make sure i wire the polarities correct and i think i go be good dey.
Was considering adding an epicentre, but thats neither here nor there ATM.
You already did most of the install yourself.
What sub/s you using? I can probably mock up an enclosure for you. Power, and tuning you require? And the dimension of the space available for the enclosure.
Needs to fit behind the seat of a hilux
I know they can function on small volumes, so if an amp rack can fit somewhere close by, will be great
Hilux seat has a ridge somewhere 3/4 up the back wall, I'll check and see if I still have the dimensions for the enclosure. Had to design it in a way to overcome that.
WTK also, cuz honestly, at this pointtimelapse wrote:If that Krentech is your work Kavaninho, job well done .That installer takes a pride in his/her /? work.
kavaninho wrote:eitech, do it yourself. It is super easy. Just get the harness and antenna adapter as Rovin recommended (wires will match up with like colours). Get the universal pocket if you are not going back with a 2 din unit.
iirc tiida harnesses does not have the ground in them so you may need to just tie the wire from the radio plug to the vehicle chassis.
Look at a few youtube vids and you will be ok.
timelapse wrote:Dem brackets supposed to be universal.Once you line up 2 screws on each side of the deck with the brackets,you should be good.If not, drill your own holes
timelapse wrote:If that Krentech is your work Kavaninho, job well done .That installer takes a pride in his/her /? work.
*KRONIK* wrote:Advice time again....
Since i'm gonna have to remove my door speakers when the van goes to paint, i wanted to male the speakers "servicable"
Hence the use of rivnuts for the install of the riser....
So what is best practice for wiring to the speaker?
Should i:
1) use the crimp on terminals the speakers came with? (These are open ended)
2) use new open barrel spade connectors? (These are insulated at the end)
3) solder in a XT30 connector to the speaker and 1 to the wire so its just 1 jack to take off/plug back
Nice, i got enough to do all 4 doors and the tweeterskavaninho wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:Advice time again....
Since i'm gonna have to remove my door speakers when the van goes to paint, i wanted to male the speakers "servicable"
Hence the use of rivnuts for the install of the riser....
So what is best practice for wiring to the speaker?
Should i:
1) use the crimp on terminals the speakers came with? (These are open ended)
2) use new open barrel spade connectors? (These are insulated at the end)
3) solder in a XT30 connector to the speaker and 1 to the wire so its just 1 jack to take off/plug back
Go for the XT30 connectors once available. These hold very tightly and you can disconnect as much as you like.
eitech wrote:The L brackets weren’t the initial problem. The original deck has a sleeve which when removed allows for the L bracket holes to align with the deck for mounting. I got through there.
BTW Rovin tnx for the stuff
Rovin wrote:^^^ steves in sah wah might have that grill materialeitech wrote:The L brackets weren’t the initial problem. The original deck has a sleeve which when removed allows for the L bracket holes to align with the deck for mounting. I got through there.
BTW Rovin tnx for the stuff
oh that was u yesterday morning , dude u cud have u were from tuner , would have gotten a lil something off, come really quiet like a man of few words & bought his stuff real easy ... thanks for ur business
Yestimelapse wrote:You using your door baffles I hope.... Kronik.If you are, I would recommend putting them under the riser if you using risers
Kavaninho, where do you get the metal grill material to buy?I needing some of that for the longest while
Yeatimelapse wrote:With the kind of equipment you got there, I can see you sound deadening very soon
YeaRovin wrote:nice choice going with d JL stuff
u watch dean & fernando on YT aka 5 star car stereo ? , they usually use d batt clamp bolt sticking up there in ur pic to mount fuse holder though i cant recall seeing them use breakers but is d same principle or they wud use rivnuts to attach it onto d vehicles body, always try to keep it close to d batt as possible since d wire between fuse holder\breaker & batt will be live\unprotected ...
timelapse wrote:On another note, any of you fellas ever used those underseat powered subs?Need some feedback.
timelapse wrote:You using your door baffles I hope.... Kronik.If you are, I would recommend putting them under the riser if you using risers
Kavaninho, where do you get the metal grill material to buy?I needing some of that for the longest while
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