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No rta pics currently. But they had smooth declining bars going up the spectrum. Hpf is a 3.15khz with a 24db slopetimelapse wrote:RTA pics?Jeremy09 wrote:Peeps. Some advice on tuning silk domes.
Tweeter in question here is the arc x2s. They are rated 40rms each, my amp was rated more so i used the setting gain with DMM method to give them rated. I took some time downloaded free rta app(not accurate guess) an eq them pretty nicely on a pink noise track. However on music they still seem pretty harsh to my ear.
A friend of mines told me tweeters are to be set using your ears, is this true? If so what sounds to use to really test the tweeter and drop gain accordingly.
What frequency you highpassed at?
My gain dial is 1-9 and i dropped it from 3 to on 1 lol. The harsh sound went away but when the volume is turned up to where i set the headunit at for the max clean signal, the clip light on the amp flickers. I emailed jl and they said thats normal because music is transient and those clip lights are inaccurate.timelapse wrote:You could also just turn the gain down
Gain on the amp or head unit you talking about?Jeremy09 wrote:My gain dial is 1-9 and i dropped it from 3 to on 1 lol. The harsh sound went away but when the volume is turned up to where i set the headunit at for the max clean signal, the clip light on the amp flickers. I emailed jl and they said thats normal because music is transient and those clip lights are inaccurate.timelapse wrote:You could also just turn the gain down
The headunit has no clipping in my car (80prs,tested) and i tuned my system to 60 of the 62 total vol . The jl amp i got has a clipping indicator. The dial on the gain on the amp has 1-10 on it. And is rated for 80rms on each channel at 4ohm. I used the multimeter method to get 40rms in which the arc tweeters are rated. That carried the dial to 3 on the amp. How ever, after eq on a pink noise track i got nice smooth declining bars on a free rta app. However, when i played music i found that to my ear the tweeter sounded harsh. I reduced the gain to 1 on this dial without changing eq. The harsh sound went away and it sounded good. When i crank the system up now to the vol 60, i clip light flickers on the amp for the tweeter even though its now on 1 on the dial.david12 wrote:If you don't have a way to accurately check distortion like a SMD DD1 or O scope, you can always do a formula to see what voltage will give what wattage at a given resistance. This may not be 100% accurate either but it'll give you a good reference point. Of course you'll need a multimeter for this. Try half of the rated power and see. This will be better than just turning down the gain and assuming.
Now I getcha.Jeremy09 wrote:The headunit has no clipping in my car (80prs,tested) and i tuned my system to 60 of the 62 total vol . The jl amp i got has a clipping indicator. The dial on the gain on the amp has 1-10 on it. And is rated for 80rms on each channel at 4ohm. I used the multimeter method to get 40rms in which the arc tweeters are rated. That carried the dial to 3 on the amp. How ever, after eq on a pink noise track i got nice smooth declining bars on a free rta app. However, when i played music i found that to my ear the tweeter sounded harsh. I reduced the gain to 1 on this dial without changing eq. The harsh sound went away and it sounded good. When i crank the system up now to the vol 60, i clip light flickers on the amp for the tweeter even though its now on 1 on the dial.david12 wrote:If you don't have a way to accurately check distortion like a SMD DD1 or O scope, you can always do a formula to see what voltage will give what wattage at a given resistance. This may not be 100% accurate either but it'll give you a good reference point. Of course you'll need a multimeter for this. Try half of the rated power and see. This will be better than just turning down the gain and assuming.
I emailed jl and they said that is normal on music to see a bit off a flicker
Same with the arcs. I just hope they don't damage. Seeing the clip light flickering and the gain can't go down any moretimelapse wrote:Now I getcha.Jeremy09 wrote:The headunit has no clipping in my car (80prs,tested) and i tuned my system to 60 of the 62 total vol . The jl amp i got has a clipping indicator. The dial on the gain on the amp has 1-10 on it. And is rated for 80rms on each channel at 4ohm. I used the multimeter method to get 40rms in which the arc tweeters are rated. That carried the dial to 3 on the amp. How ever, after eq on a pink noise track i got nice smooth declining bars on a free rta app. However, when i played music i found that to my ear the tweeter sounded harsh. I reduced the gain to 1 on this dial without changing eq. The harsh sound went away and it sounded good. When i crank the system up now to the vol 60, i clip light flickers on the amp for the tweeter even though its now on 1 on the dial.david12 wrote:If you don't have a way to accurately check distortion like a SMD DD1 or O scope, you can always do a formula to see what voltage will give what wattage at a given resistance. This may not be 100% accurate either but it'll give you a good reference point. Of course you'll need a multimeter for this. Try half of the rated power and see. This will be better than just turning down the gain and assuming.
I emailed jl and they said that is normal on music to see a bit off a flicker
Did you actually check the impedence on the tweeter or use what was printed on it?
With the JL c1 tweeters, they were closer to 3 ohms although they should have been 4
try this.Jeremy09 wrote:Same with the arcs. I just hope they don't damage. Seeing the clip light flickering and the gain can't go down any moretimelapse wrote:Now I getcha.Jeremy09 wrote:The headunit has no clipping in my car (80prs,tested) and i tuned my system to 60 of the 62 total vol . The jl amp i got has a clipping indicator. The dial on the gain on the amp has 1-10 on it. And is rated for 80rms on each channel at 4ohm. I used the multimeter method to get 40rms in which the arc tweeters are rated. That carried the dial to 3 on the amp. How ever, after eq on a pink noise track i got nice smooth declining bars on a free rta app. However, when i played music i found that to my ear the tweeter sounded harsh. I reduced the gain to 1 on this dial without changing eq. The harsh sound went away and it sounded good. When i crank the system up now to the vol 60, i clip light flickers on the amp for the tweeter even though its now on 1 on the dial.david12 wrote:If you don't have a way to accurately check distortion like a SMD DD1 or O scope, you can always do a formula to see what voltage will give what wattage at a given resistance. This may not be 100% accurate either but it'll give you a good reference point. Of course you'll need a multimeter for this. Try half of the rated power and see. This will be better than just turning down the gain and assuming.
I emailed jl and they said that is normal on music to see a bit off a flicker
Did you actually check the impedence on the tweeter or use what was printed on it?
With the JL c1 tweeters, they were closer to 3 ohms although they should have been 4
The dial on the gain on the amp has 1-10 on it. And is rated for 80rms on each channel at 4ohm. I used the multimeter method to get 40rms in which the arc tweeters are rated.
Makes sense. I have them crossed at 3.15khz with a 24db slope. The fs on the tweeter on arc site is 1400hzBrian Steele wrote:The dial on the gain on the amp has 1-10 on it. And is rated for 80rms on each channel at 4ohm. I used the multimeter method to get 40rms in which the arc tweeters are rated.
Note that rating like is with the tweeter filtered with a HP filter. And even then if you run a sine wave at high frequency at that level through many tweeters, they may be damaged or fail completely.
The best way to get the best SPL from a tweeter is to use somethin like REW to check the distortion it's producing at lower frequencies. You'd want to filter at or above where the distortion starts to rise, and at least 12dB/octave.
That harsh sound that you might be hearing when playing music through them might be as a result of the tweeter being overdriven at lower frequencies (though it could also be signs of a tweeter suffering from some pretty bad resonances).
Subtle crackle might indicate a misaligned coilJeremy09 wrote:Digging up with the faitals again this weekend. Alyh right yes, my resilient sounds speakers way better,so much more pleasing to the ear. But hear this, is it normal for pro audio speakers to give a subtle crackle or scratch that is noticeable at louder volumes? The noise doesn't get louder as volume raises,u just kinda hear it if you really close to the speaker, mids sound perfect fine (lika ole mic) speaker isn't blown, tap test, multimeter and smell test was done lol
timelapse wrote:Subtle crackle might indicate a misaligned coil
Brokavaninho wrote:david12 wrote:Thanks Rovin
Any experiences with them or other recommendations? Was watching the Arc or IDQs
To me these are better subs. Even the 8W3 from JL.
Ohhh guhhhh,thats not mines lol...Rovin wrote:OP i see u selling a new rf 500.4 , lemme guess : not enuff powah ? ...
kamakazi wrote:I need recommendations for the cheapest combination of parts to add bass to a van cabin
Like Nick said proper deadning is a good start. It will decrease the loss of acoustic energy to vibration and maybe some budget 6.5s, a comp and coax set. Your choice if you want to go with an amp or not.kamakazi wrote:I need recommendations for the cheapest combination of parts to add bass to a van cabin
kamakazi wrote:I think of sound dampening as an incremental step. Can it make up for not having a sub...I can't say, but am inclined to say no.
I'm my case I was thinking 8"sub (or if I can find smaller) in a sealed box... Or one of those underseat powered subwoofer.
Does anyone sell subwoofers smaller than 8"
You should've specified. Currently I having some fun with some Punches, comps and coax. Just pure midbass and you'd be very surprised. But if you want a sub I'll give my opinion. Those under seat subs are a waste of time. The only way I'll advise it is if you have a completely factory system and you want a very subtle extra kick.kamakazi wrote:I think of sound dampening as an incremental step. Can it make up for not having a sub...I can't say, but am inclined to say no.
I'm my case I was thinking 8"sub (or if I can find smaller) in a sealed box... Or one of those underseat powered subwoofer.
Does anyone sell subwoofers smaller than 8"
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