The comprehensive 4age thread

[eliteauto]

^^if you don't know what's wrong with it , why was it taken out? What engine is it?

Bigmanbandy, I gave him a call and just from our conversation I was impressed, i will be paying him a visit, thanks

[eliteauto]

Next question, has anyone ever tried base level tuning on the 4AGE 20 V? For example has anyone done dyno work and used the HKS AFR (type L for ST and Type D for BT)?
http://www.hksusa.com/categories/?id=1920

or what about AFM tuning for the ST? anyone ever swapped out the stock ST AFM for a larger one from say a Supra? What results were there?

How about swapping the ST cams for the BT cams in an ST? what were the results? After all both possess identical exhaust cams and the intake cams are the same duration 250 but lift is different 7.97mm ST 8.2mm BT so what does this result in?

[Zeriam]

3s AFM work
results of a bt cams in a st the results were more top end power

[shinakuma]

Wat bout d dyno figures why dont u organise a 20v dyno shootout. How u know u get more top end pwr Zeriam from ur dyno graph or jus d highway feel. i tink d dyno iz d place 2 find out wat works. i tried different spark-plug gaps on a 20v and gained 6hp (plus a smoother hp curve) dis would never have been noticed by guess work tuning.

[eliteauto]

shinakuma, exactly

[Zeriam]

i'm only talking about what i've heard yet to do anything right now but for that dyno thing i'd pass by and check the results

[trdboy]

a partner used some toda extractors and 2-1/2 inch free flow exhaust system and got 15hp more on the dyno so imagine what some toda cams and pulley and flywheel etc..etc..can do for u....on the stock setup by simply tuning your air/fuel ratio u can easily achieve hp gains up to 10hp more

[Terran]

Wat bout d dyno figures why dont u organise a 20v dyno shootout. How u know u get more top end pwr Zeriam from ur dyno graph or jus d highway feel. i tink d dyno iz d place 2 find out wat works. i tried different spark-plug gaps on a 20v and gained 6hp (plus a smoother hp curve) dis would never have been noticed by guess work tuning.

Wanna explatiate a lil more?

[Hook]

^^^I would like to know as well...I experimented with gap and my seat-of-the-pants dyno a few times...had me thinking a 1.3mm gap was bess, but like it doh work for all ST20V cuz I know a dude tuned with a 1.6mm gap and he was cuttin mih arse

shinakuma, what other ignition mods, if any, did u use? original coil? what plugs? what gap? how were the baseline and after-gap dynos for the torque as well?

[Dave]

remember fellas, widening the gap means u need a stronger current coming through to bridge that gap
blaster ss would allow a 1.2mm or maybe a lil more but that also would drain the coil more also as it works harder to produce the required current to jump the gap

[Hook]

^^^ well yeah, I kno that, but does it still hold for an iridium plug that claims less current required to spark?

like what I'm asking, wouldn't say a Blaster SS coil with NGK Iridiums allow u to go over the 1.2mm gap?

[Dave]

honestly, in the regularly used iridiums I don't believe the hype, i only would acknowledge that they last longer than a regular plug

with a digi 6 box and blaster hvc II coil i was able to run 1.5mm gap on plugs
never tried anything bigger and then the other side is once u introduce more fire and no more fuel u would run lean and detonate so u need matching fuel to run those bigger gaps

[Hook]

but a bigger spark would lead to a more efficient burn, not so? didn't know there was a limit to how much spark per fuel intake...thas interesting

well, the Iridiums come with a 1mm factory gap, but required gap for 20V is 1.1mm so I gapped mine to Toyota specs....is there any merit to indexing your plugs tho?

[smokey1275]

With the stock computer trdboy you cannot tune air fuel ratio . The only way you can tamper with the inital setting is either through use of a piggyback or standalone type PCM unit . Renember your standard computer comes with tables /maps /graphs for a mix of daily driving and certain load increasing varibales . Intakes , headers and small ignition changes will only gain so much on a Naturally aspiarated engine. The only way to get significant power up on these engines is a dedicated build. A simple foot note if i may , running cams over 264 duration will not fly on the standard computer for the purposes of maintaining a steady vaccum signal , plus running throaty cams of higher than 288 will have you thrumping in traffic and your powerband is going to really suck.
the next thing is we do not have good gas here . Sure you may use the 100avgas but that's 6.19 a liter and you can only obtain it at a few places. I think what is needed for the benefit of the guys , is to have session with an experienced person who can give a crash course in fuel injection and electronics so as to clear the gray areas in people's minds about how these thigns work properly.

[eliteauto]

lovely link part#s like whoa http://4age20v.blogsome.com/category/28/

[eliteauto]

ok so today I decided I wasn't pleased with some "flat spots" I had recently started getting so I decided to attack the fuel system in the car, first off I wanted the check the fuel pump so I started by disconnecting the negative terminal of the car's battery I then removed the rear seat of the car (just the bottom) which was easily removed by popping 2 clips, then you'll see the top cover of the fuel pump assembly, I removed the 4 screws securing this and then saw the top of the pump assembly, it is advisable to open the gas flap and remove the gas cap to release the pressure in the tank, disconnect the harness from the pump, the return line is held with a clip so just pinch it with a pliers and move it the line is then slid off the hard fitting, the out line is held with a nut and requires a 17 socket, when this line is cracked some gas may flow out, move both line out of the way and then unscrew the 8 screws that attach the assembly to the gas tank, the assembly can then be removed with a little wriggling ( be careful not to damage anything) the result:





the "strainer" did not look too dirty and had no holes I sprayed it with some carb cleaner and replaced the assembly

I moved on the replace the 15 year old fuel filter under the bonnet and cleaned the injectors, also cleaned the AFM, throttle bodies, air box and intake pipe, gonna install an oil catch can and change the "seat" rubbers of the injectors as they were eaten away

[eliteauto]

Also today I changed the transmission fluid in the car, when I bought the car everything was original ( belts, fluid etc) so I changed it then, since I do a lot of downshifting from D"" to "2" to assist in engine breaking and I run the car in solodex in "L" and "2" I decided to do another change
Since I have a tranny cooler installed I just disconnected the line from there ( the out line from the tranny can be disconnected from the radiator if you have no cooler)


I attached a hose to the cooler


I joined another hose using a hose joint and placed the end in a bucket


I then started the car and let the fluid flow out the tranny into the bucket, when the flow lessened to a trickle I shut it off and added fluid thru the dipstick tube



I then restarted the car and repeated the process till I saw clean fluid flowing out
I then reconnected the tranny hose to the cooler and added a treatment and the required quarts to the tranny (I used Wynns and Quaker State ATF)


in cae you don't know what fluid your car uses, it's usually written on the dipstick

In the end I emptied about 7 quarts inclusive of the ones used to flush, i think the tranny holds 6-8 quarts and I added 6 quarts and got a full reading

New fluid:

the old fluid from the tranny

[Dave]

where u get that good looking cooler and flush procedure from man

i am liking it

even though bag seems good, the pores would have swollen up and restrict a bit, if u can find i suggest replace

[eliteauto]

LOL thanks Dave,, I plan to get a new bag, doing some searching now, as for the procedure, I seek wisdom from the wiser ones who have passed before me

[Dave]

who have passed before me

i should say either pardon me or i eh dead yet lol

if u still suspect fuel delivery issues i would suggest a fuel pump rewire where u would take a direct 12v supply from battery via a relay to switch on the pump and then that same switched 12v source from the relay directly to the pump to supply battery voltage to the pump

over the yrs u would build resistance in those wires and effectively loose some of the pumps pumping capability

u can get a simple 4pin relay and some 8ga or 6ga wire and some misc relay clips and roughly 30mins of an electricians time

[sadique]

good info here guys....GOOD WORK!
keep it up! i'll try & add my "2 cents" wen i can!!LOL

[trdboy]

With the stock computer trdboy you cannot tune air fuel ratio . The only way you can tamper with the inital setting is either through use of a piggyback or standalone type PCM unit . Renember your standard computer comes with tables /maps /graphs for a mix of daily driving and certain load increasing varibales . Intakes , headers and small ignition changes will only gain so much on a Naturally aspiarated engine. The only way to get significant power up on these engines is a dedicated build. A simple foot note if i may , running cams over 264 duration will not fly on the standard computer for the purposes of maintaining a steady vaccum signal , plus running throaty cams of higher than 288 will have you thrumping in traffic and your powerband is going to really suck.
the next thing is we do not have good gas here . Sure you may use the 100avgas but that's 6.19 a liter and you can only obtain it at a few places. I think what is needed for the benefit of the guys , is to have session with an experienced person who can give a crash course in fuel injection and electronics so as to clear the gray areas in people's minds about how these thigns work properly.

yup smokey i wasnt referring to a stock ecu but a stock engine where simple air fuel ratios make a huge difference, and if we serious bout our vehicle's performance then we spend the money to go by qualified tuners and certified tech and mechs for doing our tuning, trust me it works...i coughed out some dough but it was well worth it, another thing to be mindful of guys is plz be aware of who digging up in ur car if there are little things u can do on ur own like brake work, suspensions, oil change, plug change etc why not do it urself?? i see alot of toyota guys like if their cars living in the garage like every week something going wrong

[eliteauto]

Has anyone ever tried this?
http://www.ae92gts.com/ae92gts_afm_trick.html

[eliteauto]

has anyone ever changed the o2 sensor on a 4age 20V, what did you use a universal 4 wire or OEM new/used? I want to change mine and I'm getting a universal 4 wire denso but thus far it's listed for the 2jz

[Zeriam]

let me know if that works buddy i need to get 1 also

[eliteauto]

http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pag ... 0Codes.htm

[Hook]

Has anyone ever tried this?
http://www.ae92gts.com/ae92gts_afm_trick.html

yup, it's a pretty neato tweak...no big gains tho, and you'll need to tweak the idle air bypass screw on the AFM when you do (I backed mine out a bit to lean the idle mixture a tad since the vane ia now more open at idle as well)..oh and 1-3 clicks is fine

tightening it leans out the mix to the point where the AFR gauge doesn't register a signal at idle so you'll hafta tighten in the idle air bypass screw on the AFM till u start to get a sweep on the AFR gauge...u get a few extra Kms to a tank (I averaged 10km over a month's run..about 5 refills) but u feel the power loss (notice the hookmobile is actually a bit lazy?)

has anyone ever changed the o2 sensor on a 4age 20V, what did you use a universal 4 wire or OEM new/used? I want to change mine and I'm getting a universal 4 wire denso but thus far it's listed for the 2jz

I used a universal 4-wire Denso once but I had to cut the old sensor and thread the flange to use it and it didn't work properly anyway...the Denso universal has 2wires to heater, one to ECU and the 4th is a ground..however, for the 20V it's 2wires to heater, one to ECU and one with a +1V reference voltage

with all 4wires on both harness and sensor connected the sensor worked for a couple mins b4 the AFR gauge stopped working (owing to no ground on the 4th sensor wire) which to me meant no signal from the sensor but the ECU never generated an error code even tho there was no link to the +1V ref voltage...what a load of suck

with the 4th wire on the sensor grounded and the +1V wire on the harness was taped off, the sensor gave a signal on load (increasing to rich) but never looped at cruising or idle

when I got an original downpipe with the sensor intact and replaced it, it worked like it should...I could try to link a used sensor for u but it's a cat-in-bag thing if u don't mind taking a gamble

[eliteauto]

Has anyone ever maxed out the 20V on a highway run (not race eh)? Was curious as to what my engine will put out before I do work on it next week, so I removed the speed cut with my RSM (first time using the feature since I installed the unit about 5 months now) and did a run from Golconda end of the highway to Sando Tech fly over (I was alone and it was after 3 AM heading north)



Did 209KM/H in "D" and max rev at 8370 RPM in "2"
I probably could have done higher speeds but I saw cars in the distance and slowed down

I'm assuming the manual guys are much faster? Can anyone confirm
Also who has dynoed their 20V, I wanna know at what RPM are you seeing max power, torque and at what RPM are you not making power?

*Disclaimer* I'm not advocating driving at these speeds and I accept responsibility for any flak and flame I may collect*

[pyromaniak]

*Disclaimer* I'm not advocating driving at these speeds and I accept responsibility for any flak and flame I may collect*

What the you was doing driving at that speed on the nations roads

There's your flame.

I don't have one of those fancy thingamabobas and my speedo only goes up to 200kph. It gets there pretty easily but I really can't say what it does after that. I have a manual Blacktop btw.

I'm going to dyno the car next month. I'll post the results.

[Hook]

^^^ nice

dyno the other one too nuh