toyota 20v help wont start

Brianr 20v · Postby **Brianr 20v** » April 8th, 2009, 7:53 pm

hey guys i need some help,i have a 20v bt in a 91 corolla and it was driving good and all of a sudden the engine stalls, trying to start and its only tumbling.No fuel pressure so i ran the pump direct but still nothing but i got fuel. My friends came they checked to see if i was getting any injection from the plug wires and there was none please help........ NEED an electrician to come an sought out the problem ASAP MY Number is 716-2318 please call or email me asap. My email address is bramkissoon001@gmail.com Thanks.

Zeriam · Postby **Zeriam** » April 8th, 2009, 9:42 pm

Brianr 20v are u getting a spark on the coil wire that goes into the dizzy cap?

Postby **Hook** » April 9th, 2009, 10:32 am

lawd faddah...hoss it's a fuel injected car, so after u check it old school for spark and fuel, time to learn to do your own diagnostic instead of shooting in the dark or letting some quack dig out ur eye to fix a problem that's a lot less complicated than he's making it out to be

was a Check Engine Light wired?
if not..see here...this'll take a lil while to organize but it'll definitely help u in the long run

Hook wrote:If your 20V transplant went into a formerly carbâ€™d car, then itâ€™s likely it came without a Check Engine Light, and then you're like me. A CEL is much more important as a warning and diagnostic tool than most mechanics/electricians give it credit. I recently installed one in my AE101 so here's the how-to if u don't have one, and a problem that my CEL immediately uncovered.

Now to make things clearer, there are two silvertop 20V types, pre-May 1993 and post-May 1993, the 2nd of which comes with OBD II and is much more similar wrt pin designations to the blacktop ECU.On the 20V post-May 1993 S/T ECU, there are 3 plugs, the rightmost of which is the 22pin 'o' plug, this is your concern at this point.
On the pre-May 1993 ECU, the CEL (labelled W) pin is the 5th from the left on the top row, on the post-May 1993 ECU, it's the 7th wire from the left on the top row when looking at the back of the plug as it is connected to the ECU.
The CEL is a negatively-switched output wire, ie. once it's connected to a bulb, the other bulb terminal must be connected to a +ve ignition source. This wire switches from open cct to -ve with the ignition on and back to open cct once the engine has started.

Now, Toyota mass produces their instrument clusters so it's likely you have one already on the dash, just that the bulb and wiring isn't there. Simply get a bulb and socket of the appropriate size and retrofit it into the dash, OR use a 12V LED with the -ve wire connected to the CEL output on the ECU (cuz it's -ve switched). The +ve wire of your CEL must be connected to a +ve ignition source, such as what drives your tach/speedo and can be wired directly into it by using the screw designated IGN+ on either device, and VOILA! You have just installed your CEL.

The ECU was put into diagnostic mode by switching the ignition on with terminals TE1 and E1 connected at the diagnostic port in the engine bay (use a short piece of wire but tin the ends with solder first
to give it strength and prevent frayed strands from touching anything it's not supposed to touch).

refer to this thread for links to more 20V info, technical manuals, ECU pinouts and error codes
http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/vie ... p?t=125731

once u have that covered, connect the terminals TE1 and E1 on the diagnosic port int he engine bay (supposed to be on the harness near the ignitor) and then sit in the car and put the ignition on and count the number of flashes that the CEL gives u....that link has another link to a site that has all the info on translating the flashes into what the error codes mean

Zeriam · Postby **Zeriam** » April 9th, 2009, 10:52 am

Hook, old skool is sometimes the best cause the same thing he getting i was having that and the ecu was saying everything fine turns out my ecu was bad got it repaired and it still couldnt detect what the problem

Brianr 20v · Postby **Brianr 20v** » April 9th, 2009, 2:11 pm

hey guys Thanks for the help but i got an electrican to come and sought the proublem out,it was the coil it was shorting due to moister and causing a 20A fuse to blow. Tomorrow i have to go by him to hook up the check light and my speedo cable and my new instrinment pannel.I will keep you all in formed or and one more thing, i have a sliver top gear box to sell,the manual brain ,clutch peddle, shifter and i also have i think it's apex corolla raceing springs for sale so if you guys know anyone please cantact me and thanks again.

Zeriam · Postby **Zeriam** » April 9th, 2009, 4:56 pm

cool beans will pass the word along.
how much u calling for the items tho?

Brianr 20v · Postby **Brianr 20v** » April 9th, 2009, 5:08 pm

well the gear box with clutch and pressure plate $1,000
ST brain $?????
clutch peddle $250.00
shifter $400.00
springs (4) - ae90-101 corolla $1000 .00
stabilizer bar ae90-101 corolla $200.00
I think the springs and the stabilizer bar will fit in an ae80 as well not sure.

Brianr 20v · Postby **Brianr 20v** » April 9th, 2009, 5:13 pm

if the prices are to high lit me know i suppose we ca work something out ok cool Thanks.

Zeriam · Postby **Zeriam** » April 9th, 2009, 5:15 pm

i might be interested in the stabilizer bar i'll give u a call by tomorrow

Brianr 20v · Postby **Brianr 20v** » April 9th, 2009, 5:17 pm

ok no prob

Brianr 20v · Postby **Brianr 20v** » April 9th, 2009, 5:24 pm

or one more thing i also have ae91 corolla head lights and indicator lights for sale.

Postby **Hook** » April 10th, 2009, 10:29 pm

Zeriam wrote:Hook, old skool is sometimes the best cause the same thing he getting i was having that and the ecu was saying everything fine turns out my ecu was bad got it repaired and it still couldnt detect what the problem

no scene brudda...I jus find that in this day and age where knowing your diagnostics is 99% of the solution, if ppl contented to dig up all how and do guesswork, then so be it...I done talk