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Tried only a few brands of engine oil in my nze-121 corolla (1NZ-FE) and with all; my oil levels drop before like 4500 - 5000 km. Someone who owned the same model said that NP Ultra is the best, but for some reason I've never had much confidence in that oil. I've tried castrol: edge (syntec blend), full synthetic, gtx and mobil 1 and with all those, the oil level starts to drop after like 4500 kms. My mechanic tells me to try shell helix. Some insight on this matter from fellow tuners is greatly appreciated.

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Have you considered that you have an oil consumption issue as opposed to an oil brand issue?

well there are no leaks in the system, no oil is escaping from the engine or exhaust, so i assumed it was a brand issue.

Change your pcv valve.
Use 10w30 on your next oil change.
Tell us how it worked

will get tht in toyota sonn and address that issue, thanks dude

Good stuff.
The other points of oil consumption will be valve seals and piston rings.
Doesnt seem like valve seals as you havent complained about smoke of startup.
So... if the issue persists, its just due to worn rings or a worn block.
If you still yave consumption... move up to a thicker oil... like 10w40 or 15w40 and monitor .
However... if the rate of burnoff is low.... as in less than 1 quart per 5000km... just let it be.
Top up as necessary.

If my car engine works well, there is no visible oil leaks dirtying up my engine, my muffler is not smoky, my garage floor is clean, and I have to top up every 4,500 kms, then I would not lose any sleep about it. Usually I would change mineral oil every 8,000kms. So topping up once before an oil change is no big thing.
In terms of money, one would spend a lot more on gasoline.
Peace.
RR.

I got a nze 121fielder and uses amsoil 10w30 and it's not burning or leaking and runs like a dream

Hey I recently bought an nze121 with a 3zz engine, the previous owner told me the current oil in the engine is 20w50. I asked him why and he couldn't answer as he said he trusted the judgement of the garage he used to service by. I've read on other threads on this forum and it revealed that 10w30 is the recommended oil. I'm looking to service the engine but I'm worried that by switching from 20w50 to 10w30 I may get some knocking... Should I throw in an engine flush first??? Or just change the oil and allow the 10w30 to naturally flush the engine and instead of a 5k change to do a 2.5k change instead?

Shell helix hx 7 10 40 with a engine flush change every 5000km an see

oh and Mileage at 110k

Well na den use the shell helix hx7 high mileage oil is 10w 30 change at every 3000 or 5000 km

You do not need a flush you can safely use 10/30 of your choice. Valvoline max life is great and cheap.
110k is not high mileage at all. I know cars at 200+k and still use 10/30 with no burn off

I was thinking of redline full synthetic 10w30

Seeing that is what I use in my 4efte tercel

No oil stays in my engine longer than 3000km and I have a 3zz.

I tried all kinda oils too but right now the longest lasting is shell 20w50

I feel is best to get a head and block yes but the next oil i am gonna try is monolec.

Did you know that oil filter 90915-10001 and oil filter 90915-10003 are one and the same?

Crackpot wrote:No oil stays in my engine longer than 3000km and I have a 3zz.

I tried all kinda oils too but right now the longest lasting is shell 20w50

I feel is best to get a head and block yes but the next oil i am gonna try is monolec.

But why do you use 20w50 instead of 10w30 though? that's what I'd like to know

Hibrydsoul wrote:I was thinking of redline full synthetic 10w30

Try royal purple or amsoil then. Everyone who i know tried redline had faster burnoff

Hibrydsoul wrote:

Crackpot wrote:No oil stays in my engine longer than 3000km and I have a 3zz.

I tried all kinda oils too but right now the longest lasting is shell 20w50

I feel is best to get a head and block yes but the next oil i am gonna try is monolec.

But why do you use 20w50 instead of 10w30 though? that's what I'd like to know

I tried 10w30 and nearly f@%k up the engine

The oil burning out so fast that the 10w30 lasted only two weeks.

My uneducated guess was that the viscosity was too low for the needs of an engine with mileage over 200000km's.

So i tryna win a pick 4 to buy a head and block now yes

wow, well I decided to stck with 20w50 as I did a little research and the result shows that the 20w50 is the best for our climate. So Im running on Quaker State Mineral 20w50 which is to be changed again by month end to help flush the engine. Added to that I like to run between 100kph to 120kph with a/c on but I'm only managing between 310km to 340km per full tank, any ideas to help raise this economy as I see some fellas boasting 400 to 600????

Hibrydsoul wrote:wow, well I decided to stck with 20w50 as I did a little research and the result shows that the 20w50 is the best for our climate. So Im running on Quaker State Mineral 20w50 which is to be changed again by month end to help flush the engine. Added to that I like to run between 100kph to 120kph with a/c on but I'm only managing between 310km to 340km per full tank, any ideas to help raise this economy as I see some fellas boasting 400 to 600????

Drive slower is your only option.

I glad to know other men using 20w50 too as I thought I alone had that problem.

Men who does say they using 10w30 does sound to me like men with mileage under 100k

10/30 checkin in wid 109000 and getting 600 to a tank.
20/50 is more viscous and killing your mileage. But hey dont listen to me since 20/50 is fuh "we climate" (which btw on its hottest day is rarely over 35 degree celcius)

cinco wrote:10/30 checkin in wid 109000 and getting 600 to a tank.
20/50 is more viscous and killing your mileage. But hey dont listen to me since 20/50 is fuh "we climate" (which btw on its hottest day is rarely over 35 degree celcius)

Mileage for me is not the issue as I have a serious oil burning issue.

I have tried that 10w30 and the engine makes noise almost as if there is metal to metal touching. It scares the light outta me and I does jes go quick and by a thicker oil

Crackpot wrote:

cinco wrote:10/30 checkin in wid 109000 and getting 600 to a tank.
20/50 is more viscous and killing your mileage. But hey dont listen to me since 20/50 is fuh "we climate" (which btw on its hottest day is rarely over 35 degree celcius)

Mileage for me is not the issue as I have a serious oil burning issue.

I have tried that 10w30 and the engine makes noise almost as if there is metal to metal touching. It scares the light outta me and I does jes go quick and by a thicker oil

Given this is where your engine has reached (in terms of internal wear) you need to use whatever time is left to make appropriate provisions for engine rebuild or replacement.
The situation you described suggest you can buy a straight 50 'body' oil to keep running.

Amsoil 10w30 synthetic in yota with 214k on the odo.....working perfectly!

toyolink wrote:

Crackpot wrote:

cinco wrote:10/30 checkin in wid 109000 and getting 600 to a tank.
20/50 is more viscous and killing your mileage. But hey dont listen to me since 20/50 is fuh "we climate" (which btw on its hottest day is rarely over 35 degree celcius)

Mileage for me is not the issue as I have a serious oil burning issue.

I have tried that 10w30 and the engine makes noise almost as if there is metal to metal touching. It scares the light outta me and I does jes go quick and by a thicker oil

Given this is where your engine has reached (in terms of internal wear) you need to use whatever time is left to make appropriate provisions for engine rebuild or replacement.
The situation you described suggest you can buy a straight 50 'body' oil to keep running.

yup you sound like u should be prepared for a head and block purchase
but being a toyota it will probably run on 20/50 for the next 20 years lol

Okay I gather that we rarely go over 35 degrees but isn't the temp of the engine be a factor to the viscosity of the oil to use? I mean the hotter the climate, the hotter the engine not so? so using 20w50 or as toyolink said using a straight 50 body oil should suffice, (just requires a proper warm up from a cold start) or am I wrong?