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So here's what is happenin car starts an idles perfectly fine but while driving d engine jus gives ah hold bac like its stuttering its somtimeish so to speak an sometimes if I come to a complete stop in traffic it cuts off an it starts bacc in ah 1 I've changed d spark plugs I tuned it up I tink I did everything thinkable can som1 plzz shed som light on dis its frustratin its an original gt model 101 corolla no conversion thing any help wil b greatly appreciated PM me or contact me @ 339~4380 thanks

check the air flow ,that might be bad

Any idea where I can get it?? I've also noticed d problem only occurs wen d engine is hot

i have a airflow for sale 2961056

Did you ever get this problem sorted out ?

Nope still trying

change the ecu and see.

Ur ac does b on? If so it could be the idle need adjusting or the idle air control valve in throttle body need cleaning. If u loosing power check the air sensors intake n out. Had a problem with a camry loosing power n it was just the catalyst converter in d exhaust. It have rel infor about 4age online do some research.

I'm not surprised that nobody started by asking if you checked for error codes.

Driveablility issues could well be related to improper air/fuel mixture, which is governed by several things:

MAF (your factory vane type has a built in intake air temperature sensor)
Oxygen sensor
Throttle position sensor
Coolant temperature sensor
Faulty injectors
Faulty ECU

Then there are other issues that can cause this-
Faulty ignition system (bad coil, broken wires etc.)
Vacuum leak or improperly connected vacuum lines
Wrong timing (ignition timing and/or cam timing)
Clogged or leaky injectors
Bad fuel pressure regulator
Broken harness

Not all of these will throw error codes, and some will only throw a code when the component has failed completely. But start with a diagnostic scan that can give you throttle angle, ignition timing, air temp etc.

Also, a plus is that it idles. Use that to your advantage. Spray carb cleaner on your vacuum lines one by one and look out for any stutter in the engine hum. This will indicate that you've found a leaky line.

Look online for the vacuum diagrams and repair manuals and ensure that everything is connected correctly and properly adjusted.

I wouldn't advocate just swapping ECUs as there are two different types for the silvertop (pre and post June 1995 IIIRC), which have different pinouts and need to be paired with the correct harness to work properly.

Before you get super technical about it, just make sure everything is set the way it should be.

Thanks man will do I'll update as I go along. BTW do u know wer I can get d injector seals

The parts places sell the middle seals (just carry an injector), but the upper and lower seals are actually flattened so you'll have to get those at TTTL.
They're pricey. I think I paid around $8 per seal.

the car idles fine you say.....well that rules out vacuum leaks......it shuts out suddenly sound like crankshaft sensor or fuel.....but it starts back up in a one.....so that rules out crankshaft sensor... sounding more like fuel delivery..... scan the car and find what the codes are......air is also another issue that can give this problem

OK finally got around to do som investigation on d stuttering Cuz it started getting worse had 2 vacuum lines wit broken edges after replacing dem started d car an while checking back everything I got shocked from 1of d plug wires not sure which 1 but apparently it not doing it all d time Cuz I started checking dem an it nn seem to leak wen check it after seems like it sometimeishh tryna locate ah set but no luck as yet dunno if anyone can shed som light as to wer i can locate ah set of d plug wires

Did ah diagnosis today an apparently its saying d water temperature sensor is on its way out so I guess I'll HV to get 1

faiz have plug wires 2xx.

N.V.R. Auto on the Southern Main Road in Curepe has ORIGINAL Toyota 20 valve plug wires 645 5968

All this comes three weeks after he determined that it was a faulty coolant temperature sensor?