Noisy hydraulic tappets & Mitsu related *hiccups*

[Rudman]

coil packs kicked out on me. had to get them changed on a 1999 lancer.

Das what they does call EVO's now??......

*runs out of thread*

[Sanctifier]

^ ^ ^ Rudman yuh better leave de man bicycle alone!

[Silvermike]

Das what they does call EVO's now??......

*runs out of thread*

u know my car? i doubt

so dont talk about it

[sant74]

post that number if u can

[~Vēġó~]

The Gates belt # is K040305.....then it has some 4PK778 under.........it's a 14mm x 790mm sized belt.

[sant74]

thanx fellas for the quick info on everthing.
I got both belt and coilpacks.The coilpacks i got in Bamboo for $300. so i got four.The car i went for a run,the girl there said no probs,just pay 1st and if i am happy keep 'em.
So i went from Bamboo to Chaguanas,from Bamboo to Grand Bazzar,the car still sputtered when accelerating,as soon as iturned onto the highway to go south,the car worked fined,I then ran the car really hard down to Central and turned around and did the same coming back up and it was not giving any problems.So i am hoping that this works for a while.

[wagon r]

......hope it works out but running it hard may disguise the problem as with you applyin full throttle, any small break up would be cancelled out as you are calling for full current.

pay attention to it in stop and go traffic and easy driving, then you'll know if the problem has disappeared.

[~Vēġó~]

^^^I have a different take on that G.......... When I had my trouble with c/p, is when I press out and call for power the c/p would not put out........it may not have been able to handle the maximum current/voltage or whatever that was being sent to it. My packs use to give trouble at 5500rpm at WOT.

sant74, as I had suggested somewhere in this thread, find some wide flat quiet road, stop the car and then press out.....leh de car run through the powerband and change gears automatically........observe for any hesitation. If you got any then the packs may be still faulty. Also you can drive at a speed where the car remains on 3rd gear, then hit the throttle all..... should go down to 1st and leh it run through........observe for the same hesitation, sounds from engine bay and if you can observe the rearview for any clouds of black smoke.

[sant74]

need to get camshaft seals and crankshaft seals as well as engine block gasket-- any place recomended??

[Greypatch]

faiz

[squinty_eye]

Having a similar problem with my Galant 4G93 lifters:
A mechanic guy told me to run a quart of automatic fluid in the engine for about a day or two (easy driving) flush out and replace oil. He indicated the ATF would clean the deposits on the lifters. Haven't tried it yet.
Just don't want to have to open the engine and get it cleaned.

Currently using Mobil 1 10W-30 and a FRAM filter, need to know the following for my next oil change:
1) What is the oil recommended ? and where to get it ?
2) Oil filter to use Purolator/Fram/Sakura ?
3) Need to get a Repair manual for this thing... need to tinker with the car.
4) Does it make sense to use a K&N air filter ? would I get any noticable increase in performance. Since I got the car, just felt for a 1.8 engine it doesn't give me a good kick off. Wondering if anyone knows a guy that can do a good tune-up.

Fixed my clock problem with soldering also...geez that was hard to pull off dashboard.

When I got the car, I had good mileage around 600Km on a tank, then I changed the fuel filter from the original and it dropped to like 450Km.

5) Where can I get an original fuel filter for the galant ?

Car rough idles when at a standstill (revs are like 600rpm) and I am using Bosch Platinium 2 haven't checked them out to see if they are ok.

6) Wondering how to check if my coils are not faulty, because one of my plugs exploded and I don't know if that affected the coil pack in any way or more importantly my engine.

[altec]

squinty, all your answers are in this post somewhere. It is a LOT of reading but ent you want to learn about your car?

[squinty_eye]

Read through most of it but I am not fully car centric... I just want my car to work as it's supposed to... I'll take the recommendations outlined since I am due for an oil change but I need to source the stuff.

I'll go ahead with the Shell Helix thing... but needed to find out where I can get the stuff affordably.

Wanted to get those BKR6EKUC plugs that originally came with my car. Needed to know how to tell if the coil packs are bad and where I can source them locally or Int'l.

[squinty_eye]

What are the symptoms to indicate that the Catalytic converter is fouled or clogged.

Wondering if you G-men still have them in your cars.

What benefit is there for not having them in terms of increase in horsepower...

Still want to know where I can get me a couple of those coil packs from foreign.

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

Guys,
Any diagnostic codes for MIVEC 4g92 DOHC?

[mitsugdi]

What are the symptoms to indicate that the Catalytic converter is fouled or clogged.

Wondering if you G-men still have them in your cars.

What benefit is there for not having them in terms of increase in horsepower...

Still want to know where I can get me a couple of those coil packs from foreign.

To understand why a catalytic converter fails, you need to know how it works. The catalytic converter is part of the automobile exhaust system. It converts harmful compounds in exhaust into harmless compounds. In a typical passenger car, the catalytic converter, which resembles a muffler in shape, is between the engine and the muffler. It's on the underside of the car, usually underneath the passenger seat. Maybe you have felt its warmth through the floor on a long trip.
Catalytic converters have been standard on U.S. automobiles since the mid-1970s. The catalytic converter helped drive the push toward unleaded gasoline as well. Leaded gasoline contaminates the catalyst used inside a catalytic converter, destroying its usefulness and leading to a clogged converter.

After the engine exhaust gases pass through the catalytic converter, the gases go through the muffler or mufflers, depending on the make of the automobile. Some vehicles use a pre-converter as well, to perform a similar function. The catalytic converter generally lasts the life of the automobile and rarely has a problem with being clogged or plugged during its lifetime.

The inside of the catalytic converter is a honeycomb set of passageways or small ceramic beads coated with catalysts. A chemical reaction takes place to make the pollutants less harmful. There are many passages for the exhaust gases to flow, to allow for the maximum amount of surface area for the hot gases to pass.

The catalysts include:

Oxidation catalysts: Palladium (Pd) and platinum (Pt) metals in very small amounts (to keep the catalytic converter price down) convert the hydrocarbons of unburned gasoline and carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide and water.
Reduction catalysts: Palladium and rhodium (Rh) metals also in very small amounts convert the nitrogen oxide to nitrogen and oxygen. Nitrogen oxide is a big contributor to smog.
Many states and localities have legislated annual automobile emissions testing that checks the actual emissions content. The exhaust emissions test checks for the absence of a converter or a malfunctioning one during an inspection. It's illegal in some states and localities to remove a factory-installed catalytic converter. A mechanic can sometimes temporarily remove it and replace the catalytic converter with a test pipe, but the rules on this can vary from place to place.
There are two ways a converter can fail:

It can become clogged.
It can become poisoned.
There really is no "inspection port" for the consumer or mechanic to see an actual clog in a converter. Often, the only way to tell if a catalytic converter is malfunctioning (plugged) is to remove it and check the change in engine performance. When a clogged converter is suspected, some mechanics temporarily remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic converter and look for a change in performance.
A catalytic converter relies on receiving the proper mix of exhaust gases at the proper temperature. Any additives or malfunctions that cause the mixture or the temperature of the exhaust gases to change reduce the effectiveness and life of the catalytic converter. Leaded gasoline and the over-use of certain fuel additives can shorten the life of a catalytic converter.

A catalytic converter can also fail because of:

Bad exhaust valves on the engine
Fouled plugs causing unburned fuel to overheat the converter
Sometimes you can tell that a converter is clogged because you don't go any faster when you push the gas pedal. Also, there usually is a noticeable drop in gas mileage associated with a clogged catalytic converter. A partially clogged converter often acts like an engine governor, limiting the actual RPMs to a fast idle. A totally clogged converter causes the engine to quit after a few minutes because of all the increased exhaust back pressure.
The catalytic converter, like the rest of the emissions system, typically has a warranty length that exceeds the term of the warranty for the rest of a typical U.S. automobile.

Here is a safety reminder: Do not park your car over tall grass or piles of dry leaves. Your car's perfectly running catalytic converter gets very hot…enough to start fires! You can keep it running well by keeping the ignition system in top shape, to prevent any unburnt fuel from entering the catalytic converter.

_________________
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

^^^^^^^^^wooooGooolge!

[~Vēġó~]

Having a similar problem with my Galant 4G93 lifters:
A mechanic guy told me to run a quart of automatic fluid in the engine for about a day or two (easy driving) flush out and replace oil. He indicated the ATF would clean the deposits on the lifters. Haven't tried it yet.
Just don't want to have to open the engine and get it cleaned.

Currently using Mobil 1 10W-30 and a FRAM filter, need to know the following for my next oil change:
1) What is the oil recommended ? and where to get it ?
2) Oil filter to use Purolator/Fram/Sakura ?
3) Need to get a Repair manual for this thing... need to tinker with the car.
4) Does it make sense to use a K&N air filter ? would I get any noticable increase in performance. Since I got the car, just felt for a 1.8 engine it doesn't give me a good kick off. Wondering if anyone knows a guy that can do a good tune-up.

Fixed my clock problem with soldering also...geez that was hard to pull off dashboard.

When I got the car, I had good mileage around 600Km on a tank, then I changed the fuel filter from the original and it dropped to like 450Km.

5) Where can I get an original fuel filter for the galant ?

Car rough idles when at a standstill (revs are like 600rpm) and I am using Bosch Platinium 2 haven't checked them out to see if they are ok.

6) Wondering how to check if my coils are not faulty, because one of my plugs exploded and I don't know if that affected the coil pack in any way or more importantly my engine.

hold out on that tranny oil....try the helix (available at most parts place @ $120+ per gallon) and purolator or sakura filter first....

K&N drop in works nicely..... $450+

Get rid of them Bosch!!!!!! get back yuh BKR6EKUC available by Mathura's @ $35+ or Sheriff's @ $65+ each.......

How in GOD's name did your plug explode????

Fuel filter try Faiz or ElSocorro Auto Supplies.... around $145+

That clock thing I HAVE to fix.......damn thing hard to get off.....any strategy to that???

Coil Packs would indicate some failure degree when running performing harsh acceleration......tach needle remains motionless, car feels like it's holding back, listen for backfiring sound(well more like a lil packs packs packs sound) and watch for clouds of black smoke from muffler.........

thread contains some suggestions on how to do it if yuh eh wah go by electrician to test.

[squinty_eye]

Thanks Vega... for the help out.

Well I will try out the Helix, any particular purolator (I saw somewhere in the thread L14622)

With the plug explosion, I kinda did a boo boo with the plugs, tried closing the gapping on all of them. Although I did see a small crack on one of them... didn't take it on and put it back... after a while like a month or so... car was really rough idling and I was hearing like pack pack explosions... told the mechanic, drove him in the car and he did nothing.. Driving around and the car for nutten wouldn't go past 110Km/hr. (Hope that didn't damage the coil pack). Anyway, I couldn't stand it no more and told the mechanic to check the plugs and voila.. bad plug. He replaced it with some shitty non platinium plugs... started getting rough idling again. Put back in a fresh set of Bosch and rough idle gone... Was looking for some iridiums to put in but that will have to wait till i fix this tappet noise problem.

K&N filter I got by Car Boutique was for $395 stock replacement kinda smaller in depth. I think it was the K&N 33-2175. And I will replace the spark plugs.

About the clock... I will have to send some pics... but ah real sweat to get that out.
But I think the easy way is to take out the centre vent where the hazard lights are... and if u look way in the back when you move the vent hose two clips... need to get a very long nose 12"pliers. Once they are out, you have to pull the top of the clock unit forward and lift from the back to get the back clips off. My problem was the clips under the clock unit itself... didn't have any long nose pliers... so I pushed the clock unit forward pulled off the back clips first and then with brute force the clips under the clock, praying nothing broke off.
Soldered up the power connections and any cold soldered joint and voila...

I have one question... my bro turned some screw next to the throttle control... its under the smaller intake hose ..wanted to know what purpose does it serve. Thinking it controls idle speed.

Dunno how to send pics in this thing...

[~Vēġó~]

FIRSTLY to load pics on the board read this thread.... Posting Images

That clock removal sounds quite time consuming and tedious, but one day I will succeed.....

I have one question... my bro turned some screw next to the throttle control... its under the smaller intake hose ..wanted to know what purpose does it serve. Thinking it controls idle speed.

possibly that screw may be the idle speed control...fiddle and see......mind you I have tried to locate one on my T/B but to no avail......

As for the plugs......if you look at the original set (BKR6EKUC) you'd notice that the plug reach (as in the part of the plug that enter the combustion chamber) is longer than conventional plugs. The primary reason for this design is to ensure that the spark is as close to the air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber as can be....so that there will be a more complete combustion of said mixture for maximum efficiency and power....... my advice is to stick to the original or of yuh getting plugs with the same reach then I don't see any problems with that.....

[xtech]

My fello VR-G mitsu men with noisy GDI lifters. The permanent trick to stop that pan side is finaly here. I was about to ditch my engine when as a last resort I tried engine restorer. Believe me it works, I brought it in curepe. And from the minute I put it in the engine got quite as a lamb. ....an i seriously mean from the minute.....that was about 9 months ago an still no noise, this "snake oil" really works please try it you will like it...Now I only hear the sound when i pass a fello GDI VR-G an i hate to hear it. It will cost u about $50 for a 4 cylinder can. Now u need to put it with every oil change......or the demons return

http://www.atvconnection.com/Features/P ... storer.cfm

[Rah]

Hey fellow gdi men, im having a problem ( been a while). My car is aa lil sluggish. I have done most of the usual checks, changed plugs, clean air filter (k&n) cleaned throttle body etc. BUt no effect, i suspect the injectors, i normally use amsoil cleaner for it, tried two bottles over the last montgh but still a lil sluggish. I haven't done a manual injector cleaning in about 18mths, normally the amsoil works well. What yall think ? time for a clean out ? Also have neva changed the fuel filter...........lol. Tell me what you think

[~Vēġó~]

try the fuel filter change first...... and also if you have continuous lifter noise your power would be robbed......notice I say continuous lifter noise eh.....

fouled injectors should have you burning some more gas too eh.

[LOCO]

Vega, what yuh think about the engine restorer, I've been looking for something to use in the GSR to quiet down the lifters.

[squinty_eye]

Which purolator did you get for the Galant, I got two different types L14459 and L14612.

By the way what was the stock K&N filter, went to Car boutique and got a K&N 33-2147 was kinda small in depth and slightly bigger than the OEM filters. Is this the correct one ?

[~Vēġó~]

Vega, what yuh think about the engine restorer, I've been looking for something to use in the GSR to quiet down the lifters.

man I honestly don't know........it seems to have worked for the gentleman and the write up on it sounds positive...... but I'm gonna be sticking to my shell helix as my lifter noise manager......

When the lifters start dey scenes, a lil run hard, to improve oil pressure, usually sets them quiet.

[~Vēġó~]

By the way what was the stock K&N filter, went to Car boutique and got a K&N 33-2147 was kinda small in depth and slightly bigger than the OEM filters. Is this the correct one ?

the one I have is indeed the K&N 33-2147 ...... it's a tight fit but it's correct.

[mitsugdi]

The noise level of the valve mechanism cannot be properly judged where the engine is below operating temperature when the hood is raise, or when the valve rocker arm covers are removed.

Before attempting to judge valve noise level, the engine must be thoroughly warmed up (at least 20 minutes of operation at 1200 to 1500 rpm) to stabilize oil and coolant temperatures and bring all engine parts to a normal state of expansion. When the engine is warmed up, listen for engine noise while sitting in the drivers seat with the hood close. Tun the engine at idle and at various higher speeds. It is advisable to observe the noise level in several engines that have been properly broken in, in order to develop good judgment for checking the noise level in any given engine.

If the preceding check indicates the valve mechanism is abnormally noisy, remove the rocker arm covers so that the various conditions that cause noise may be checked. A piece of heater hose of convenient length may be used to pick out the particular valves or valve train components that are causing abnormal noise. With the engine running at a speed where the noise is pronounced, hold one end or hose to an ear and hold other end about 1/2" from point of contact between rocker arm and valve stem. Mark or record the noisy valves for investigation of following causes.


Excessive Oil In Crankcase. Crankcase oil level high enough to allow the crankshaft to churn the oil will cause air bubbles in the lubricating system. Air bubbles entering the hydraulic lifters will cause erratic operation resulting in excessive lash in the valve train. Locate and correct cause of high oil level, then run engine long enough to expel air from system.
Sticking, Warped or Eccentric Valves, Worn Guides. Sticking valves will cause irregular engine operation or missing on a low speed pull and will usually cause intermittent noise.
Pour penetrating oil over the valve spring cap and allow it to drain down the valve stem. Apply pressure to the one side of the valve spring and then the other, and then rotate the valve spring about 1/2 turn. If these operations affect the valve noise, it may be assumed that valves should be reconditioned.

Worn or scored parts in the valve train. Inspect rocker arms, push rod ends for scoring. Check for bent push rods. Check valve lifters and camshaft surfaces for scoring. Replace faulty parts.
Valves and seats cut down excessively. Noisy and improper valve action will result if a valve and its seat have been refinished enough to raise the end of the valve stem approximately .050" above normal position. In this case it will be necessary to grind off the end of the valve stem or replace parts. The normal height of the valve stem above the valve spring seat is 1.933 inches, for 350 cu. in. engines and 2.082 inches for 455 cu. in. engines.
Faulty Hydraulic Valve Lifters. If the preceding suggestions do not reveal the cause of noisy valve action, check operation of valve lifters as described in paragraph 60-33, subparagraph c.

b. Noisy Valve Lifters
When checking hydraulic valve lifters, remember that grit, sludge, varnish or other foreign matter will seriously affect operation of these lifters. If any foreign substance is found in the lifters or engine where it may be circulated by the lubrication system, a thorough cleaning job must be done to avoid a repetition of lifter trouble.
To help prevent lifter trouble, the engine oil and oil filter must be changed as recommended in the service manual. The engine oil must be heavy-duty type (MS marked on container) and must also conform to GM Specification 6041-M to avoid detrimental formation of sludge and varnish. A car owner should be specifically advised of these requirements when the car is delivered. Faulty valve lifter operation usually appears under one of the following conditions:

Rapping noise only when the engine is started. When engine is stopped, any lifter on a camshaft lobe is under pressure of the valve spring; therefore, leak down or escape of oil from the lower chamber can occur. When the engine is started a few seconds may be required to fill the lifter, particularly in cold weather. If noise occurs only occasionally, it may be considered normal requiring no correction. If noise occurs daily, however, check for (a) oil too heavy for prevailing temperatures, (b) excessive varnish in lifter.
Intermittent Rapping Noise. An intermittent rapping noise that appears and disappears every few seconds indicates leakage at check ball seat due to foreign particles, varnish, or defective surface of check ball or seat. Recondition, clean, and/or replace lifters as necessary.
Noise at idle and low speed. If one or more valve lifters are noisy on idle at up to approximately 25 mph but quiet at higher speeds, it indicates excessive leak down or faulty check ball seat on plunger. With engine idling, lifters with excessive leak down rate may be spotted by pressing down on each rocker arm above the push rod with equal pressure. Recondition or replace noisy lifters.
Generally noisy at all speeds. Check for high oil level in crankcase. See subparagraph (1) above. With engine idling, strike each rocker arm above push rod several sharp blows with a mallet; if noise disappears, it indicates that foreign material was keeping check ball from seating. Stop engine and place lifters on camshaft base circle. If there is lash clearance in any valve train, it indicates a stuck lifter plunger, worn lifter body lower end, or worn camshaft lobe.
Loud noise at normal operating temperature only. If a lifter develops a loud noise when engine is at normal operating temperature, but is quiet when engine is below normal temperature, it indicates an excessively fast leak down rate or scored lifter plunger. Recondition or replace lifter.

[~Vēġó~]

the only real task is actually getting into the lifter assembly........that plenum can be a real beyotch to take off, especially if you don't have the correct gasket to replace at the very back......motor would never idle properly if at all......... I would've done it already but I can't afford any major down time on the G

[Halfbreed07]

Fellas i have been having a problem that is making me pull out my hair!!!!!
after 1/2 hr of driving my 1.8 gdi galant the rev cuts to under 2000 rpm. if i exceed that the car cuts off. i've change the aif flow sensor twice because that was what the diagnostic check said to do. i bought a practically new one yesterday and as i hit the hiway the rev cut and the car start to "buck". someone suggested that i change and gap the plugs. (wats the gap for these cars?) some one pls help i spent over $1500 and still the prob. still exsists......
ps. my tappits dont make any noise